Blue Ensign

Thanks for the good word, Mark
 
With regards to the "bump", it appears that the aft bulkheads I made using the "as proposed draught" have addressed this, based on the relatively fair run of these temporary battens:
 

 

 
Since the body plan of the "as built draught" I'm currently using are basically spot on with the "as proposed draught" that I previously used, the new bulkheads I'm drawing will hopefully also create a fair hull, but I'll know for sure once I build up the new hull... I'm keeping my fingers crossed

Great effect you have achieved there Frank
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

She's coming together very nicely Richard, the Bowsprit colour looks good, I didn't care much for the Walnut finish either.
 
B.E.

Well time for a little update, it's been awhile since I've posted here, due partly to my procrastination and partly because I can't see to well    , ........ anyhow I could get thru the anchors with out too much of a problem....... so here they are....... does anyone out there know if the anchor rings are supposed to have rope raped around them??... if so what's the best way to do them. Thanks
Frank

Only a minor update for today.
 
I've glued the elm tree pumps into place and fixed the anchor to the anchor cable.
 

 
Well, it wasn't even a good idea to paint the casing and the outlet black...
 
 
The anchor will be stowed later
 

 
 
And at last a total view as of July 27.
 

Ok.. for Mr Super-Impatient-Sjors (and all the rest of you kind folks) some photos...
 
Been working away at the main shrouds, one more pair to go on each side. Edging my way slowly towards a bout of rattling... I figure when I get the lower standing rigging done, I'll have a shot at getting the lower shrouds taken care of.
 
Also made a brief stop over under the bowsprit. got the inner bobstay collar done to my liking. Made an attempt at the inner bobstay. It is supposed to be doubled and served all over, but I had issues getting a stong enough splice... I may yet revisit that bit again before this is over....
 
Andy

Your copper plates look excellent Nils, and nice work on the rudder.
 
Well done
 
B.E.

Before I move on, I omitted to mention a couple of items in the previous post. First, I wasn’t particularly happy with the stand provided and thought of various other types, including my own wooden one, a version made from perspex (which can often be very effective), or perhaps employ couple of pedestals (either brass or wood). I deliberated on this for some time before I was more-or-less forced, by progress on the model, to make a decision. In the end, I’m afraid, took the easy way out and decided to go with the stand supplied – although it was somewhat modified!
 
As can be seen, I cut down the height of the supports to around the bilge area, since this was where maximum support was needed, with rather more being taken from the front supports than the rear. This gave it a much better appearance, removed the somewhat intrusive extensions up the sides of the model, and didn’t affect the stability.  A wooden crossbar was then fixed between the supports, angled on the top face to match the that of the keel, and with two small holes drilled through it in appropriate positions. Corresponding holes were drilled in the keel and I found two suitable screws. Then with four thin strips of adhesive padding material added to the arms to protect the model, and following a light varnishing, the stand was screwed to the hull. I decided to leave the colour as it was, being less intrusive – to my mind, the stand should be as ’invisible’ as possible so as not to detract from the model itself. I added the lettering, ’HM cutter ’Sherbourne’ – 1763’ at a later date.
 
The rudder was planked with three planks on each side, with paper strips around it at suitable points to simulate iron bands. The planks I chose were a little marked, which gave the rudder a old ’worn’ look. I fitted an eyebolt on its after side. Thin strips of black paper simulated the pintle and gudgeon straps. With that well-known concept known as hindsight, I now think the rudder would perhaps have looked better tapered, but there it is.
 
The last photo also shows the metal lettering of the name, the individual letters being glued on separately. Since I had painted the stern yellow ochre, I thought black lettering would look rather effective. However, to actually position the lettering itself took a little thinking about to get the spacing right. Rather than begin on the left side which would perhaps be usual, but which might very likely end up with too much space to the right, I decided to start with the central letters over the rudder, and work out to each side. Working by eye this method kept things equal, and resulted in the same amount of space on each side of the name. Whilst on the subject, I have not managed to find out how the actual name came about. There is a town named Sherbourne, in the English county of Dorset I used to live in, but I rather suspect the cutter is perhaps named after an Admiralty or Dockyard official. It would be interesting to know.
 
So, now to the deck. With the gunport strips fitted, the instructions then said something like, ’with a pair of pliers, twist off the heads of the frames above deck level’. What?! I must have read that a few times, to fully understand that’s what they really meant – and I felt that there was no way I was going to do actually that, without causing some serious damage! It appeared to me that it would also leave an unsightly break, which I would then have to spend time tidying up with sandpaper, even a file. Instead, I came up with another solution. Before fitting the gunport strips, I decided to saw about half-way through the frame tops at deck level from the side, with a fine toothed model saw, and to use only the minimum amount of glue in fixing the strips. I reckoned I would then only need to use minimum force to remove the frame tops. It worked well, they came away with very little effort – and I expended very little effort in tidying up the remains. I seem to remember that I planked the bulwarks both inside and out, using scale length planks, as I progressed, in order to strengthen the gunport strips. These were quite weak at this point with little support, merely being glued to the upper edge of the wale. I actually used the thin strips of, I think maple, to plank the inner bulwarks (although I think they were supposed to be used for the deck) since they fitted round the bow more easily, and were painted red.
 
I decided to more or less follow the colour scheme of the Alert on the cover of the AOTS book, for the outer bulwark planking. I opted to use yellow ochre for the planking, with red in the gun and sweep ports, black for both wales, with a line of blue between the upper wale and the capping rail.
 
The deck was laid in three-step-butt fashion, working from aft forward and from the centre out, the outer planks being joggled into the margin plank. One side, and one end, of each scale plank were ’caulked’ with black rigging cord. The same cord was also used to caulk around the hatches.
 

 
Next time: the various fittings.

So far so good, but the next part was a bit scary ...
 
... you remember, on the heads and in the fighting tops I already tried some netting. But it was quite ridgit and I knew not what would come out now.
 
So put the gaze into a cardboard frame  ...
 

 
... and painted nicely with beige, added some plain white and dirtied it with very diluted black ink.
 

 
Easy to see how the appearance became more homogenous.
 
Then did a test fit and realised how the holes got stuck on the hammock cranes ...
 

 
... but it looked ok so far.
 

 
Some test handling on the outside ...
 

 
... proved that the netting should curl outside instead of inside.
 
Then introduced some papers as introduction help and introducing the netting was no subject of getting stuck any more :-)
 

 
Got the front paper out, adjusted the height towards the rope ...
 

 
... and glued with CA the netting onto the rope .
 
Then used the hammocks to press down the netting ...
 

 
... pulled out the back paper and also the hammocks, used pincers to hold rope and netting together and used CA to fix.
 

 
Then cut the side length ...
 

I’ve finished the anchors. They are made from copper rod, bend and shaped with files. I’ve silver soldered the
parts and blackened with “BrassBlack” Unfortunately this time I missed to take pictures of every stage. Hoops
are brass strips first bend to shape then blackened and glued with CA.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
http://www.flickr.co...57626433922489/

And here is the starboard side...

Hello,
 
Here is another "retro-update". I decided to remove the original, kit included, stairs so that I could replicate more closely what has been installed on the 1:1 in Stockholm.
 
The pics are self-explanatory (the first pic was my original installation). I purchased two sets of stairs and glued the step's vertical timbers together so that I could then reshape them with the curves.
 
The Stockholm Vasa ladders are, I think, new so I assume (that word again) that the museum historians copied ladders that were in use at the time that included those curves. I also noticed that some of the 1:1 photos have a curved deck cutout at the top of the stairs, so I did some cutting and fixing as well.
 
My center area between the two ladders is incorrect, but too late to deal with that. I may add some kind of figurine details on that center wall. Hmmmm
 
Moving on I will now start on the bow figures. They will be painted similarly to my stern figures. With these figures I will attempt to add some sort of slim framing that I see on the 1:1 photos. I have to think about how to do this.
 
Again, I so appreciate, and I am certainly motivated with your kind posts as well as those of you whom are kind enough to just visit this build in progress. Thanks everyone.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 

Peter,
you may be right, but there are still so many fine Details to be done. Next to the rigging sometime this year I would also intend to make a full suit of sails of which I have no plans yet.
But in the meantime there Needs to be a lot more work on the hull. Regarding to the coppering, which I completed today I shall go for the rudder now (a double nail capline on the copperline is not attached yet) to provide a neat horizontal finish to the coppering. It went so well, doing the "plates" from tape, actually 4-5 in row at a time, I could hardly believe the Speed myself. Also I have a prototype of a brass Investment casting of the figurehead under way, am expecting it curiously next week, if it works out well.
 
Nils
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Pegasus, build log Picture lot 19
 
Beginning with the rudder System....
 
 

started with a Trial sample on the rudderblade hinges, the rudder was made from 4 bars 4,5 x 4,5mm, fitted after coppering the rudder
 

These hinge parts will be cut off, they go to the hull, after coppering
 

the ruddershaft goes through all the decks
 

self explaining
 
 
 

Trials for coppering now completed,
 
started with coppering yesterday (pic. lot 18), simultaniously started with the ruddersystem (pic. lot 19), because that shall be fitted when the coppering is finished
 
Nils
 
 
Lot 18
 

shall probably follow the flattend verion
 

after 6 Trials made up my mind....
 

beginning with starboard side
 

not so accurate, as industrial made plates, but therefore selfmade
 

the copperline was drawn with a soft pencil
 

it turned out best results when following the planking pattern...
 

i am pleased in not using CA glue, that allways messes up the fingertips
 

Startpreparation bottom Stern on port side
 

the sternpost is 4,5 mm wide, the rudder will be 4mm (would be 256 mm on actual ship)
 

view from aft
 

Hello Nils, re the English terms used in shipbuilding - here's a little schematic I did on the plans to help me sort out what was what.
 

 
 Hope this helps.
 
B.E.

Hi Mark,
 
Amati sell the copper sets as an aftemarket item.
 
Here's a link to a UK Supplier, The Model Dockyard.
 
http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/amati-Copper_Hull_Plates.html
 
They're showing nil stock at present but you may be able to get a delivery date from them. The Model Dockyard are a reliable UK supplier.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hello Ross,
 
Looking at the drawings in The Bounty by John Mckay in the AotS series of books, the waterline starts off right under the Main wale amidships. He states that she was coppered when taken into Naval service in 1787, but if you wish to display her uncoppered but painted she would probably have been payed with 'White stuff' over wooden sheathing, to give an off white shade of colour.
 
If when you have marked the waterline as indicated by David, it appears to sag towards the bow and stern when viewed from the side this is an optical illusion brought about by the rounding of the hull. To counter this  just bring the line up a fraction from where it starts to round until it satisfies your eye.
 
Once the line is marked I use Tamiya tape to mask the area for painting, and it also gives another opportunity to check all round how the waterline looks on the model.
 
Good luck.
 
B.E.

Sorry to disappoint Peter, but this is a tricky problem. Logic to us would dictate that some sort of chock arrangement would be fitted across the spare topmasts to seat the boat on.
 
My books contain a few photos of contemporary models with boats stowed on the booms and these don't seem to support that theory.
 
Here's a sixth Rate from 1745.

 You can't see all the boat, which I have seen in a book, but the boat sits down slightly between the booms and appears to simply be lashed to the booms.
 
Here's a shot of the Lowestoft model

 
Again no indication of any sort of chocking, the beam of the boat is supported by the booms and is held down by lashing.
 
You only tend to see one boat on the gallows on contemporary models, possibly because the larger one was towed?
 
Nesting of boats again seems to be a logical solution to a problem, but according to Lavery (Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War)
 
This is unlikely to have been done in the eighteenth century or before. Although  boats often had  some removable thwarts, these were intended to allow the carriage of casks, and there were enough fixed thwarts to make nesting very difficult. At least one thwart was fixed and kneed in midships to support the Mainmast.
 
He goes on to cite the case of a ships Pinnace which was often longer and narrower than the Longboat, making nesting impossible.
 
I'm dodging the problem by only showing one boat on the gallows
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

Some small but noticeable items on the hull exterior ...anchor lining, fenders and steps.

 
 
The kit fenders are ply and have lamination lines down the vertical face which are very noticeable under varnish. New ones were made from walnut stock off one of the kit sheets. Kit part on the right, homemade ones on the left.

 
Likewise the entrance steps have laminations on the top faces. They had a thin veneer of walnut plank added to cover it.

Hi all,
 
Well, I said I was going to get on with the Running Rigging but a couple of things happened along the way.  Firstly, I decided I'd like to use some of Chuck's excellent rigging line, so I've ordered a bunch of that and it's on the way.  Secondly, rather than buying Chuck's superb looking blocks, I decided I'd really like to have a go at making my own "Chucky Blocks" by following the method described in Chuck's outstanding post on this subject.  The following describes my journey to date in "learning how to fish" (and I'm not talking trout or moose here!).
 
First of all, I must say what an excellent description Chuck gives in his post.  I think that anyone with a Mill should have no problem at all in following suit.  I did however make a couple of minor mods along the way.
 
Chuck describes (and shows) making some feather boards for the Brynes Saw to assist in cutting both the Sheave groove and the Stropping groove.  These are really easy to make and work like a charm. The best part is, by using these it's virtually impossible to get your fingers anywhere near the saw blade!    You need two feather boards for each size block you're making, one each for the Sheave and Stropping groove.  Here's a pair for the 5/32" (4mm) blocks:
 

 
In making the "box" jig for the mill, I made a couple of minor mods.  First up, I decided to attach the base to the mill by using the standard Sherline hex cap head bolts, which meant making a counter sunk hole in the box base plate.  The advantage of this approach is that the base then becomes flush, with no bolts to get in the way of the drawer (or anything else). Here's a pic showing the box unit attached to the mill using the countersunk hex cap head bolts:
 

 
The next mod I decided to try was the top of the box jig.  Chuck advises that you need a separate jig for each size block you are making.  I thought that if I made the top removable, I could make a set of interchangeable tops and save myself a bit of extra time and effort making up more boxes.  The lids are held in place by locating pins (cut off nails). Here's the box with the lid separate:
 

 
Because I'd be placing and removing the lids fairly frequently, I thought I'd protect the locating holes from wear by inserting a small brass bush in each locating hole.  This was simply made by cutting off a piece of brass tube and inserting it in the hole with some epoxy glue.  The result is a snug fit that doesn't get looser over time. Here's a close-up of the arrangement:
 

 
The next mod was fairly simple.  I just replaced the nuts on the adjustable fence with wing nuts to make them easier to operate.  In this picture, you can see a set of strips with grooves cut placed in the jig ready for the milling process.
 

 
And here is the result of two passes of the mill, using the special round-over cutting bit (as recommended by Chuck):
 

 
I tested the set-up by making some small batches of both 1/4" (6.35mm) and 5/32" (4mm) blocks.  I am waiting on some boxwood stock from Jeff at Hobbymill, but for test purposes I used what I had at hand in the appropriate thickness - some crappy walnut for the 1/4" and some basswood for the 5/32".  I did the larger blocks first and discovered I had made both sheave and stropping grooves too deep.  I adjusted a little with the smaller blocks, but there is still room for improvement.  I don't have a small drill press like Chuck's (yet   ) but had no real difficulty drilling the holes with the Dremel in its drill stand.  I finished off the blocks by giving them a quick tumble in my previously built tumbler.  They could do with some more finishing, but as these were for "proof of concept" only, they will do.  Here's a selection from my test run:
 

 
Observations:
 
1. It works!     
 
2. The feather boards are a must - they are just brilliant.
 
3. All of my mods seem to work just fine.
 
4. The key to successful blocks (in my opinion) is getting the groove depths right.  Unfortunately, there is no magic way to get this right.    Trial and error and calibrating your eyeball is about the only way.
 
Thanks again to Chuck for "teaching me to fish". 
 

I omitted to fit bow and stern blocks when framing, but this was mainly because I didn’t know of them back then (well, that’s my excuse). They may perhaps have helped, but I don’t recall any particular difficulties in planking the bow or stern as a consequence.
 
I really didn’t encounter that many problems with the first lime planking either and it seemed to go relatively smoothly, provided the individual planks were properly tapered. I had also never thought to cut a rabbet line for the garboard plank, however, thinking about it in retrospect, it would probably have been a good idea. (In passing, I have sometimes wondered why the kit manufacturers never think to pre-cut this, since its placing is somewhat critical, and I would imagine is something of a daunting prospect for the beginner.) A fore rabbet, up the stem, would also certainly have been advantageous since I encountered a problem with what I have termed ’plank creep’. This is where the first planking, and thus by association the second, comes rather nearer the bow than necessary – and is your own fault! It is not that noticeable now, but you can see it should you care to look closely (please don’t!) Anyway, I tried to ensure a close fit of the garboard plank, by sanding down the inner edge, and this seemed to make a good joint.
 
Next came the second walnut planking, and here I made a perhaps ’radical’ departure from the instructions (easy enough to do now, but in those distant days…) and clinker-plank the second layer.  All that I had read about cutters told me that their hulls were so planked, and inherited from vessels of an earlier period, so I wondered why the Sherbourne was of carvel construction. However, having been designed by Thomas Slade (responsible for the design of the Victory two years later) and built in Woolwich Dockyard, the answer appeared obvious – they were more used to that kind with warship construction. I believe Chris Watton, the kit’s designer, has also said she was carvel. I imagine that the real Sherbourne would probably have been clinker planked, as was more usual, had she been constructed in a private yard. Moreover Peter Goodwin, in what had now become my ’bible’ (the Naval Cutter Alert), maintains that clinker construction remained in cutters until around 1810 – apart that is, from those constructed in the Dockyards. So, I persuaded myself I was on sort-of-safe ground for the project, and in any case I wanted to try the technique – so, clinker it was to be!
 
Planking of course had to commence at the garboard strake, since the planks above overlap onto those below. I overlaid my planks by about a third, which seemed about right, sanding down the top edge of each plank so that it formed a good joint with the one above. A thin bead of glue along the top of the strake below, plus a small amount along the reverse of each plank, ensured a good bond. I learnt early on not to use too much glue, as it tended to seep out onto the planking, which of course was not desirable! Provided the planks were sufficiently tapered at bow and stern, I don’t think I encountered many problems – or perhaps I have conveniently forgotten about them!  A few small stealers were needed at the stern, but apart from that the planking went surprisingly well. 
 
For both planking layers I opted to use scale length planks, staggering them as in full size practice. This was not only more historically correct, but I found that the shorter lengths made for easier positioning. I believe I planked about three strakes, on alternate sides, until the planking was done, and it was actually quite exciting to see it progress. At the time I was a member on the old Dry Dock Models site, and remember that posting a few pictures of my build encouraged at least one other member there to try clinker planking for himself. His results were pretty impressive too, so far as I remember.
 
Perhaps I should say a little about painting the waterline. Marking this was quite literally achieved by cutting a hull-shaped hole in a piece of hardboard, gradually enlarging it until I was satisfied the model was at the height I required, and then drawing a line with a pencil around the hull. Rather heath-robinson, but it seemed to work! The painting was a little tricky, especially at bow and stern, where the lie of the planks tended to interfere with a good line, but I think I managed it reasonably well. I opted to use an ivory shade rather than white, since it is a largish area and I felt that the white would be too harsh. It also has a somewhat old look to it. The planks from the waterline to the wale were left natural, although they were treated with beeswax.
 
The hull pictures are reproduced below:
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Next, the bulwarks, stern and deck.

Continuing...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
She will now take her place in the Dining Room to compliment the Naval cutter model that I bashed quite some time ago.
 

They are a good match I think, and more importantly have the full approval of Mrs W
 
Specific reference works I have used during this build I list here.
 
The Naval Cutter Alert -  Peter Goodwin  (Conway AotS series)
 
The Global schooner - KH Mardquardt
 
The Colonial Schooner - H. Hahn.
 
Rigging Fore and Aft Craft - Lennarth Petersson
 
News of Nelson John Lapenotiere's race from Trafalgar to London  - Derek Allen and Peter Hore
 
My thanks to all who have  made such supportive comments on this log which I hope will provide a useful reference to those contemplating the build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

Launch cont'd
 
Jotika only provide two half chocks to support the boat, the inference being that the boat is supported on the starboard side by the Pickle’s bulwark.
 
This seemed odd to me so I fashioned a pair of full chocks on which to rest the Launch.

 

Having spent a fair bit of time making the bally boat, I’m now not sure I like it - hmmn I think I will have to ponder on that.
I certainly think I will only display one boat on the deck even if I decide to go ahead.
 

The kit arrangement.
 
How would they manhandle a boat of that size outboard given the rigging incumbrances.
 
I've a fair idea of how the boats were swung in and out, using a triatic stay slung between the two mast pendants, with tackles attached to ring bolts within the boat to raise it above the bulwarks, further tackles slung from the yardarm, and probably the Fore gaff, to swing it out.
 
Can you imagine how tricky that could be with an overlarge ships boat, keeping it steady to avoid crashing into the rigging, or worse the masts, she would have to hove to in any case to launch a boat, but in anything other than a millpond sea, she would still be rolling and pitching to varying degrees.
 
I really wanted to display a boat on the deck, maybe a replacement cutter of slightly less size, and some modifications learned from the building of the Launch.
 
The 14’ Cutter
 
This is not a bad shape and at least I know it will fit on the deck without giving the impression of trying to squeeze a quart into a pint pot.
 
I took a different approach with the Jolly boat.
 
Exterior planking was done clinker fashion using strips from computer label paper.
 

I decided that planking the inside of the hull was a waste of time as the planks were hardly visible on the larger boat when finished, and they just add to the thickness of the gunwales.
 
On this boat I used styrene strip of 0.5 x 1.5mm for the ribs and keelson, 0.5 x 2 mm for the rising plank.
The gunnels I made from 0.75mmx1.5mm styrene strip.

Small boats are tricky to hold whilst working, but a cut out in a block of balsa goes a long way to keep it steady.
To avoid unnecessary thickness I left the ribs long so that they would support the thin gunnels.

Basic internal structure completed, paper patterns for the foredeck and stern sheet gratings
 
Jotika suggest that there were no bottom boards or knees, but I have modified the interior to reflect the drawings in the McGowan Victory book, and other reference sources.

Bottom boards have been fitted, a grating in the stern sheets, and a small foredeck at the bow. The gratings which are nice features in small boats were left over from the main build but necessitated taking down to a fraction of their original thickness to suit.
 
Boxwood strip was used for the thwarts and ring bolts fitted at the bow and stern.

Modified chocks.
 

 

In keeping with the muted colours of the main model I decided to colour the oars in a natural wood finish, white looked too stark to my eye, and there is no white anywhere else on the vessel.
 
She certainly looks more in scale to the size of Pickle, so the 19’ launch will not be displayed on the model.
 
B.E.