Blue Ensign

Capping Rail and Catheads – completed
 
Well, I feel like this is a huge milestone!  The work that I had to do on the cats and the capping rail is done.  Now it’s up to Father Time to do his bit – that is, darken the cherry to match the bulwarks!  (When I finished the bulwarks a year and a half ago, they were about as light as the current shade of these newly finished components.)
 
Proper alignment of the rail while gluing in place was greatly aided by the holes drilled during the initial fitting.  I could get the section of the rail ready as shown, apply glue to the bulwarks top, and just slide it down into place.
 
 

 
 
Then it was just a matter of making lots and lots of sawdust to get them to their final shape and size, drilling the rest of the holes, treenailing, and applying tung oil.
 
I used pencil on both plank ends at the scarphs for caulking.  Maybe a bit too evident now, but once the cherry darkens they should be more subtle.
 
 

 
 

 
 
For some reason I really like the jointing that I decided to use where the side rail meets the stern.  I don’t know if it’s necessarily “proper” for that junction, and it’s just a small thing, but it really made sense to me anyway.  Of course now I realize that it will be hidden once the boat davits are installed  
 
 

 
 
I forgot to specifically photograph them, but the cathead supporting knees are at least partially visible in this shot.
 
 

 
 
And finally, a purely gratuitous shot from my favorite angle to showoff the lines of Mars ... ah, greatly enhanced by the capping rail to be sure.  
 
 

 
 
Time now to finish the various deck fittings!!
 
Cheers,
Robert
 
 
 

Hi all,

here is the internal view of the fore area. The wood is stained. In the last photo, a full view of the ship's right side ... aft frames, on the poopdeck, were temporary removed because of a placing mistake: I hadn't considered the correct thickness of planking
 
Cheers
Alex

I don't know whether to laugh or cry Doris, here's me with enough hardware to start an engineering factory, and you produce such wonderments with a small selection of hand craft tools.
 
Marvellous stuff.
 
Regards and much respect.
 
B.E.

It is a joy to see your updates Doris, just love your crew figures.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Thank you for your comments, Danny and Sjors.
To Danny:  No problem to explain how I create this or that. I usually take some pics (sometimes videos) from the process - it is better to understand the tutorial and description.
 
After two days of careful work i have finished the capstan - it is made according to plans from the book Anatomy of Royal Caroline.

I used wood (nut), card and self-adhesive foils (with wooden and gilded look - for the star on the top). The nail heads are created with thick colour ( gun metal + flat black - mini acrylic paint from Tamiya). For application I use a metal tip from micro-pencil (0,3mm).
 



 

...eh ...eh ...eh ...!!!
 
Red is for the lower part of the forecastle. There's a white colored middle part and a semi-natural wooden part on the top. Semi-natural because (as shown in the pictures) it's a bit stained with dark linseed oil. You can see the difference: the hull under the forecastle is still natural, meanwhile the forecastle is stained.
 
Cheers
Alex
 
p.s. this picture is a prewiev.... In fact you can see also the wales (red)
Pasta ai carciofi is a typical recipe of my town. But you can find lots of varieties of pasta all'uovo (pasta made with flour an eggs). If you decide to come here, tell me something ....!!!!

Working on finishing up the deck furniture. Those scary dark rigging clouds are looming on the horizon
Installed the timberheads and decided to keep them with a natural finish. Fabricated the Bowsprit but still need finishing and details, just placed loose. Tried to do it the "planer/octagon" method and created scrap, had better luck with the drill motor and sandpaper. (would still like to achieve plabner skills, prob need better planer than $10 stanley trimming plane?) Catheads installed/Painted Swivel posts installed, I opted for a pair on the quarter deck instead of between the shrouds, plus provides a bit more firepower toward the stern area. Stairs were a pain in the butt, managed it but spiked my BP  , (next time make a fixture). Working on the cannons. The laser cut trucks end up a bit small when made true round, so I used the large ones as the small and fabricated large trucks. Next up, blackening metal for all the various ringbolts, cleats etc. Question regarding cannon rigging.
There is an eyebolt and a ringbolt on each side of the carriage. I know the size to use for the ringbolt, but what about the eyebolt? Large 3/32 or small 1/16 dia provided? It is where the hook on the block attaches.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments 
 
So how did I do it, the how-to was indeed like Jan noticed in the first picture. The divider was used to scrape a thin line evenly spaced from the bottom of the gallow. Multiple passes with very light pressure were needed to cut through the grain. In the middle the cut was done free hand.
 

 
Then I used a slightly blunted threading needle to make the molding, again multiple passes and the wood shaped nicely.
 

 
And yes Piet  I do have some miniature 0.4 mm chisels made from hypodermic needles and thin steel but I use them elsewhere
 

 
Remco

Hi, everyone,
 
I finished making the gratings (sanding to profile yet to go...). The mill method worked fine, allowing me to make the gratings to exact size. Since the battens and ledges remain constant sizes in width, the only way to fit a specified opening exactly is to vary the spaces between in both directions. The mill allowed this kind of accuracy, and the gundeck drawing shows the new gratings fitting exactly. Sanding the bottom to reveal the spaces between ledges is fairly straightforward; I used sandpaper glued to plywood, to keep it all flat. The first photo shows what happens when the sanding gets close to finish--thin strips peel away. 
 
These are pretty accurately to size now, following Steel. My earlier ones were much out of scale; don't know how it happened, but .....
 
The last photo shows my new jig for  repeatedly cutting thin strips (the battens, in this case) from the left side of the saw. Much safer and cleaner cuts. Many thanks to Michael Mott who helped me refine this idea. You can see the discussion in the Tools Forum, under micro jig.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi hamilton, Goodwin includes the crowsfeet as part of the standing rigging in the Blandford book, I would use blackened line.
 
Regarding the Lion figurehead, many years ago I modified a boxwood chess piece to create a 'lion' figurehead on a scratch1:96 scale model of an early 18th century first rate.
 
Lions are popular subjects, and if you don't feel confident at sculpting look around for something that might fit the bill.
 
Cheers,
B.E.

The next project was to start filling in some areas on the starboard gallery. There are small carvings with a face and swirls beside their heads above the gallery windows as shown on this section of the Pett Painting.
 

 
The start of the carvings in a strip of boxwood.
 

 
Some of the carvings separated from the strip.......
 

 
With a Canadian dime to show scale......
 

 
Three of the four carvings mounted on the gallery.
 

 
More to follow...............
 
Bill

HMS Victory
1:96 Scratchbuild Project
Part 9 – Deck Details 2
 
In this part I will focus on four modeling processes – the hammock nettings, the ships wheel, the lanterns and the anchors.
 
 
Hammock Nettings
 
Victory had hammock nettings on just about every rail, perhaps because they had to accommodate the hammock bags of 800 crew, but also, I am sure, because the more protection from flying fragments or splinters in battle the better. Anyway, there are a lot of them. They are of different sizes and those along the poop deck rail are tapered, being shorter at the aft end. If you look at pictures of the real ship, these nettings droop and sag as you would expect rope netting to do, so using rigid screen, for example, was out of the question. The method I used was to weave fine cotton thread on a 6” mesh grid to fit the shape of each of the sections of netting, then fasten these to the ironwork u-shaped hammock cranes that were fashioned from brass wire soldered together.
 
The hammock cranes were straightforward. On the real ship they were square, but because of the scale, I simply used stiff brass wire. This was bent into the u-shapes and a short piece was soldered to the bottom for insertion into the rail. Then longitudinal lengths of wire were soldered on at the tops to tie them together and provide support to which the netting could be lashed. Short pieces of wire were soldered across, between the tops of each crane. These assemblies were trial fit into place on the rails before adding the netting.
 
The nettings were a more difficult problem, though once solved the only issue was the tedious job of making them. First, a CAD drawing was made of the layout of each unique section of netting. An example for two of the sections is shown below.
 

 
On this drawing the diagonal lines are spaced 6” (1/16”) apart and the boundary of the net is drawn on this grid. A copy of this was the placed on a piece of Homosote board and a piece of wax paper placed on top of that. Pins were inserted at the four corners of the section and at the intersection of each grid point with the outside line. A piece of fine copper wire was then strung around the four corners and twisted taut. The following picture will help describe this.
 

 
In this picture the blue line represents the fine wire around the outside and the green closely spaced dots the location of some of the pins. When all these pins were hammered into place, fine cotton thread was tied off on one pin and then woven back and forth as shown by the red lines above. At each pin the thread was looped under itself and around the wire and then woven under and over previously laid thread alternatively to form the final woven mesh. A small curved sewing needle was very helpful in doing this endless over and under weaving.
 
When the section was completely woven, the mesh was pulled up on the pins about 1/8” to get it off the waxed paper. It was then coated with shellac to stick it together. This was done in several dilute applications to avoid the shellac filling in the holes in the mesh. If the mesh is bridged with liquid this can be removed easily with a Q-Tip.
 
When dry and with all the weave secured, the pins were carefully removed leaving the completed section of netting. This was then folded, inserted into its wire frame and secured to the top longitudinal wire with fine thread. The assembly was then given a coat of flat black enamel to deaden the sheen of the shellac and blacken the wire, an exception to my no paint philosophy.
 
When finished, the assemblies were fit into the holes in the rails and given a small drop of CA glue. The tops were then bent to the sag seen on the real ship. Some of the photos in Part 8 show these nettings well. The picture below is a close up of some of this on the port forecastle rail. These netting structures need to be fairly strong because it is impossible not to abuse them somewhat when doing later rigging, and once the mesh is in place they cannot be repaired with solder.
 

 
At this point I will mention a tool that was made to deliver very small drops of CA. Most applicators yield drops that are too large for most of this work, especially later when used for rigging. I use a very thin CA, which I buy in 2 oz. Bottles. I do not use the applicator tip. Instead the bottle is placed open in a safety holder made from thick wood with a hole bored to the diameter of the bottle. A 4” wide base is put under this. You do not want open bottles of CA free-standing on your workbench. I then dip an applicator into the bottle. The applicators I use were made from a piece of .020” brass stiff wire. A fine slot about ½” long is sawn into the end of this wire on the centerline with a fine jeweler’s saw. The end is then filed round and the two parts of the tip bent slightly into a shape resembling an old style drafting pen. This then holds a very small drop of cement. At least two of these are needed, because they quickly become coated with CA. The spares are kept standing upright in a tall closed jar with about 2” of Acetone in it. This quickly dissolves the CA so that a clean applicator is ready when needed. After awhile the Acetone needs to be refreshed. Keeping the jar closed is important, first because Acetone is hazardous from a health and fire standpoint, but also the vapors in the jar help clean the applicators.
 
The Wheel
 
The ship’s wheel is one of my favorite parts on the model, but unfortunately it is almost invisible tucked in under the poop deck and behind the binnacle cabinet. It is modeled in boxwood and is a pretty close replica of the original considering its small size of about ½” in diameter. The assembly consists of two wheels each with the standard 10 spokes. The steps to make these two wheels and the central spindle so that all the holes for the spokes were properly aligned is shown in the following drawing.
 

 
The first diagram at the top shows a square block of wood slightly larger in width and breadth than the finished wheel diameter. This is made long enough to eventually fit into a lathe chuck. To one end of this, thin pieces of boxwood are glued with alternating grain direction. In the diagram the darker grey is end grain, the light grey side grain. This lamination will yield strong wheel assemblies and mimics the real construction to some degree. “A” is the distance between the centers of the two wheels and the joints between wood layers must be located precisely on this dimension. The dashed line in these pictures represent the cuts to be made next.
 
This piece is then setup in the lathe between centers and turned to the outside diameter of the wheels as shown in the second diagram down. This now round piece is chucked in the lathe. I used a three jaw centering chuck. A center hole is then drilled to take the spindle axle and the wood between the spindle and the inside diameter of the wheel is removed with a very small lathe tool.
 
The bottom view shows the final steps. The ten holes for the spokes are drilled 36 degrees apart around the outside diameter, all the way through into the central spindle, before the wheels are parted off. The distance between these holes can be set off with dividers. It is essential that the piece be set up for drilling so that the drill is perpendicular to the tangent of the outside diameter at each point. If not, the wheel spokes will not be radial and that is one of the main goals of this process. An index mark is placed on both wheels and the spindle to assure correct alignment later.
 
Finally the wheels and the spindle are parted off where indicated by the red lines. This must be done carefully to avoid breaking the wheels. The excess at the end was taken off by turning it down on the lathe. Then the two wheels were parted off manually with a fine blade jewelers saw and the sawn surfaces were sanded flat and smooth.
 
Spokes of the correct diameter can then be inserted to assemble the three parts. This can then be mounted on an axle and supported by appropriate pillars. The best picture I still have of this assembly is shown below.
 

 
 
Lanterns
 
There are four lanterns on Victory, three at the stern and the Admiral’s lantern mounted on the aft side of the main top. I felt these were too small to be made in wood and decided to make them of brass to be chemically blackened. Making the main body of the lantern with its paned windows was the most challenging part. The lanterns are octagonal with the fore face of the bottom aligned vertically with the fore face of the larger top, so they basically slant aft. Each face has two vertical rows of panes, slanted down its centerline. The forward faces have no panes. The tops and bottoms have a curved shape on each octagonal face segment and each lantern has a small octagonal chimney on top. There is one large central lantern at the stern flanked by two smaller ones. The lantern in the maintop is quite small and eventually was done as a solid chunk of brass.
 
First the outside shape of the lantern was filed into a small block of brass. Extra length left on this was then clamped securely in a milling vice and the inside of the lantern was hogged out on the milling machine. In the next step, shown below, the bodies have been cut down to final length and the window holes are being milled out with a 1/32” milling cutter. These were milled across the whole face, since the cutter and my files were too large to make individual small panes.
 
 

 
After this milling step, the holes were squared as much as possible with a very small (1/32” sq.) jeweler’s file. I have had two of these for years, one square, one round, but have never seen them on the market since. I try not to break or lose them and save them for jobs like this. After squaring the holes slots were sawn vertically down the center of the faces to take the center mullions, which were made from brass wire and were soldered into place. Two of the completed lanterns with their mounting brackets are shown below before blackening.
 

 
The last picture shows the three lanterns mounted at the stern.
 
 

 
Anchors
 
Victory had several anchors of various sizes. There were, of course, the two main bower anchors, which were attached to their hawsers and made fast to the side below the catheads ready if needed.. In addition, there were two spare bowers lashed to the side at the aft end of the forecastle. One of these had the smaller sheet anchor lashed to it for storage. Lastly there is the kedge anchor, which was stored on one of the mizzen channels. The bower anchors were huge, 21 feet long and weighing almost 8400 pounds. Making them with eighteenth century technologies with only muscle power forging was a major feat of engineering. For the model all these were made from brass and blackened chemically. The picture below was taken during fabrication.
 
 

 
At the top is a finished bower anchor and below are the parts of its three mates. The shaft is square at the top so was turned from a square brass rod along the middle section. It was left square at the bottom to fit into a notch that was let into the piece that was cut from 1/8” plate in the shape of the arms. These were silver soldered to the shafts and filed to the rounded shape as shown. The triangular flukes were cut from 1/16” brass sheet and silver soldered to the arms. Each was filed to the correct final shape. The rings were inserted into holes drilled in the square tops and then silver soldered together. After blackening, stocks made of boxwood were and fitted, square brass metal bands installed (not shown above) and the ring was “puddened”, that is, wrapped with thread. The picture below shows the spare bower and the sheet anchor, both lashed to the starboard fore channel with the fluke of the bower resting in a special block for that purpose on the planksheer.
 

 
 
Silver Soldering
 
The last thing I would like to mention in this part is silver soldering. I have referred to it a number of times and there is a great deal of it to be done in the fabrication of all the ironwork on this model, some of large pieces, like the anchors, and some of very small pieces, like eyebolts and small diameter rings. This can be a difficult technique to do reasonably well, let alone master, and many shy away from it. I had a lot of difficulty with it until I got a small propane torch and the right soldering materials. A small propane torch is inexpensive and very adequate for this type of work. I have a small dual gas high temperature torch which was expensive and uses expensive fuel. This is not needed. However, I found that the right soldering materials are most important. I started with brush on fluxes and wire solder, which had to be cut into small pieces which always seemed to be too large or resistant to being attached to the work. All these problems ended when I went to syringes of powder solder in flux, which can be injected directly where needed in very small amounts, easily controlled. Toxic and non-toxic, high and low temperature varieties are available. I purchase mine from an online jewelry-making supplier. They are inexpensive, last a long time, and for me at least, have made the process simpler and if fact manageable. They have also helped produce higher quality work, avoiding large blobs of solder on the final piece.
 
In Part 10, the last section on deck details, I will discuss the modeling of the planked ships boats, two of which are partly visible in the above picture.
 
 
Please stay tuned.
 
Ed Tosti

Hi hamilton, Goodwin includes the crowsfeet as part of the standing rigging in the Blandford book, I would use blackened line.
 
Regarding the Lion figurehead, many years ago I modified a boxwood chess piece to create a 'lion' figurehead on a scratch1:96 scale model of an early 18th century first rate.
 
Lions are popular subjects, and if you don't feel confident at sculpting look around for something that might fit the bill.
 
Cheers,
B.E.

Hi Hamilton, glad your books have arrived, now you have something to get your teeth into.
 
Regarding the Main Wales, personally I would go with Goodwin. There are plenty of contemporary models of sixth Rates and larger of that era with the distinctive double black Wales picked out, I think it sort of defines the period.
 
Goodwin does say in his book that the period was one of transition with old and new features being incorporated at the same time, and that the Blandford was unusual in some respects in her construction. This gives you some scope to show differences.
 
The Crowsfeet at 1:100 scale would be pretty fine, but I think you are right to attempt them, using the finest line you can get hold of.
0.1mm diameter is usually the smallest commerciallly available rigging line, but there may be other options. I would in any case drill the micro holes around the rims of the tops.
 
Look forward to seeing developments.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Continuing:

Details of the sails.




These were drawn from the plans of Boudriot and are made of Modelspan
tissue .
 



 



 
Attaching reef points nearly destroyed what little was left of my sanity.



As did the ratlines using 125g copper wire.
 

Almost done.


 


 


 

 







 

I've just picked up on your build Bill.
 
That is one hell of a kit bash, in fact the term doesn't really fit at all. Your depth of research, attention to detail, and evident skill is producing a model of exceptional beauty.
 
A new benchmark for a Mantua kit for sure.
 
Look forward to seeing more.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi Jason, when using natural line such as supplied by Jotika, I always  pre-stretch and wax the line. This is particularly important with the stays and Shrouds.
 
Far less tension is required on a stretched line and the risk of pulling  masts out of alignment is much reduced
 
On my models I also like a bit of slack on some of the lines such as the Braces and Bowlines, and stretching allows this to be formed in a natural sort of way.
 
Lines for the Main and Forestays I tend to hang with weights for some time before use, but for shroud lines I use a home made  rack as per below.
 

 

 
This is sufficient to take a set of Shrouds.
 
 To achieve an induced sag or change of direction I recall from German site that diluted wallpaper paste achieved very good results particularly where used to stiffen the multi block crowsfeet prevalent on 17th century ships.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Another fine offering from  Daniel’s bumper book of everything you wanted to know about matters nautical but were afraid to ask
 
I can hear the scratching of heads from here.
 
The definition ‘bright’ meant payed with Rosin, the main ingredients being Rosin  and turpentine.
 
The colour of bright sides would presumably vary dependant on the rosin used but light to mid brown would be my best guess.
 
Paintings around the time of the Seven Years War may provide a good clue. Most contemporary model of the 18th century are shown bright, but the finish may not be representative of the real thing.
 
Have a look at the works of marine painters such Charles Brooking and John Cleveley
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-naval-snow-173093
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/ships-in-a-light-breeze-173091
 
http://www.lanefineart.com/component/virtuemart/shop.product_details/12/flypage_images.tpl/70.html
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-naval-brigantine-in-a-calm-sea-173289
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-sixth-rate-on-the-stocks-173292
 
This is probably as close as you will get.
 
As far as weathering is concerned, how will we ever know.  A ship model kept indoors may well darken with age whereas open to the elements fading is more likely, much in the same way old varnish appears today.
 
Carr – laughton makes mention of a ship having a dull appearance, like a bright sided ship discoloured by use. - Reminds me of my Garden bench.
 
 The practise of painting ships sides long pre-dated the Nelson fashion of the late 18th/early 19th centuries.
 
Carr- Laughton cites  an Admiralty order dated 12 July 1715  that the outsides of ships be painted  of the ‘usual’ yellow colour, which suggests that the practice was in force for some considerable time prior to this. Other contemporary references throughout the 18th Century indicated that painting was a normal practice.
 
However, this does not fully explain the case as in 1777 an order was issued explaining how the sides of ships were to be ‘payed’ and another in May 1780 saying that when ships sides were painted, the material  usually allowed for paying them should not be issued.
 
The inference to be gained from this is that the two methods co-existed, perhaps changing in precedence from time to time.
 
Is your question related to one of your multiple Victory builds Daniel?
 
Cheers,
 
M.
 
 
 

I also think that your companionway looks very good Jason, and very neat work on the gratings.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.

a little update...... When I first attached the sail to the gaff it looked a little skimpy, so I went on line and found a picture of the Surprise with its gaff sail furled. They had it attached to the mast also. I made the correction and it looks alot better....thanks for look'n in..
Frank

I usually use a clinch knot when tying directly to the eyebolt.
Here is a demo of how to tie the clinch knot.  It comes out looking like a served lashing.
Tom
 
http://seaguar.com/seaguar-community/clinch-knot.htm

Hi, Augie!
Just ask ...... here it is
 
Stern view is nicer than bow.
 
Alex

Catheads
 
Before deciding on their placement, I had to make the catheads.  I used Goodwin as my reference for dimensions, size and position of sheaves and sheave slots, end caps, etc.  Since I don’t have a good machine for turning brass, I made the sheaves and pin from wood.
 
I traced the outline of the kit-provided walnut catheads onto 3/16” thick cherry sheet and cut them out using the scroll saw, leaving them a little long at the head and tail.
 
I drew the sheave slots in pencil, and also marked lines for cutting the excess length at the heads.
 
 

 
 
I drilled a starter hole so that I could thread a scroll saw blade through to cut the slots.
A little masking tape at the ends to hopefully remind me to stop my cuts…
 
 

 
 
Once the sheave slots were cut with the scroll saw, I “flossed” them with narrow strips of sand paper to open them to width.  I made the sheaves out of Swiss pear in the same manner I used to make the drumhead for the capstan, but on a much smaller scale, using the Dremel and a #76 bit.  Some pear treenail stock I had prepared was used for the pin.  End caps were finished with the “patina” design using a 1/8” chisel blade.
               
Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of the whole process -- and those I did take, are a bit blurry -- but these show a bit of it toward completion.
 
Not yet cut to length at the head end, but the sheaves are installed and the “pin” of treenail stock is threaded through all.  A couple of “extra” sheaves remain unused.
 
 

 
 
I experimented with making the caps using cherry, but eventually used Swiss pear for a little contrast.
 
 

 
 
The “fiddly bits” of these fittings…
 
 

 
 
The catheads cut to length at the head end, caps installed, all sanded and ready to go.  (Of course the obligatory “extras” snuck into the shots)
 
 

 
 

 
 
The tails of these cats have been left a bit long in case I decide to run them over the rail vs. under it.  Yes, that decision still beckons me    But I can stall no longer, the time has come!

Hamilton,
Greyhound and Blandford were both built at Deptford d/y by the same master shipwright Richard Stacey. Both were commissioned in 1720.
There was very little difference in the as built dimensions of the two ships, Blandford being 1 foot longer.
Greyhound was broken up in 1741 and Blandford was sold in 1742.
We have touched on the rigging aspect of a sixth rate in a separate thread, but personally I would not continue to confuse myself  by trying to make sense of the Corel rigging plans, which probably contain many errors. Clear them from your mind and work from the Blandford book.
James Lees (Masting and Rigging of English ships of war 1625-1860) also includes a belaying plan for a 1719 establishment sixth rate in his book.
 
B.E.