Blue Ensign

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Well Yves, a case of monkey see, monkey do.
 
I thought if it was good enough for a guy who was around at the time (1750) to show it, it was good enough for me.

 
The black and white schematic was a traditional thing to be found everywhere in the flooring from stately homes, to cathedrals, to 1950's kitchens in the form of lino.
In naval circles it probably just followed fashion of the time, except it was merely painted sailcloth, anything else would be considered extravagant.
 
The French on the other hand, more conscious of creature comforts preferred parquet flooring in their great cabins, perfect for unlaying by carronade.
They even had separate Bread Ovens; can you imagine!
 
The British were, and are, more conservative, and their lordships of the Admiralty had an aversion to anything 'frenchified' despite having pinched the designs of their Seventy-four gun ships, and finally being seduced by the epaulette, that most French of French adornments.
 
A brief potted history, not entirely tongue-in-cheek😉
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Well Yves, a case of monkey see, monkey do.
 
I thought if it was good enough for a guy who was around at the time (1750) to show it, it was good enough for me.

 
The black and white schematic was a traditional thing to be found everywhere in the flooring from stately homes, to cathedrals, to 1950's kitchens in the form of lino.
In naval circles it probably just followed fashion of the time, except it was merely painted sailcloth, anything else would be considered extravagant.
 
The French on the other hand, more conscious of creature comforts preferred parquet flooring in their great cabins, perfect for unlaying by carronade.
They even had separate Bread Ovens; can you imagine!
 
The British were, and are, more conservative, and their lordships of the Admiralty had an aversion to anything 'frenchified' despite having pinched the designs of their Seventy-four gun ships, and finally being seduced by the epaulette, that most French of French adornments.
 
A brief potted history, not entirely tongue-in-cheek😉
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

041 - Completed Model
I have now built the display stand and the model is now complete. This has been an interesting and fun model to build. @chris watton design work is outstanding and the kit instruction manual, plan sheets and materials are of the finest quality.
 
I have attached a selection of photographs of the completed model for your viewing pleasure.


 
 

Well Yves, a case of monkey see, monkey do.
 
I thought if it was good enough for a guy who was around at the time (1750) to show it, it was good enough for me.

 
The black and white schematic was a traditional thing to be found everywhere in the flooring from stately homes, to cathedrals, to 1950's kitchens in the form of lino.
In naval circles it probably just followed fashion of the time, except it was merely painted sailcloth, anything else would be considered extravagant.
 
The French on the other hand, more conscious of creature comforts preferred parquet flooring in their great cabins, perfect for unlaying by carronade.
They even had separate Bread Ovens; can you imagine!
 
The British were, and are, more conservative, and their lordships of the Admiralty had an aversion to anything 'frenchified' despite having pinched the designs of their Seventy-four gun ships, and finally being seduced by the epaulette, that most French of French adornments.
 
A brief potted history, not entirely tongue-in-cheek😉
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post Ten
Internal fittings are now removed for test fitting.
The thwarts are an integrated unit combining the central Longitudinal plank. This is typical of barges of this period.

9440
The stern benches are also a single unit that look to require only minimal adjustment to fit.
Before they are fitted the seat stanchions that run down the centre of the footwaling are required to be fitted.
 
Section 38 of the blurb refers to the fitting but does not mention that the stanchions are of brass etch.

9438
They are numbered sequentially on the blurb and a careful check of the etch shows that the ten stanchions are position specific, fore, and aft to accommodate the sheer.
They are not however, numbered as per Section 38 of the blurb.
 
 
The way the kit is set up the stanchions dictate the height of the thwarts, and the hull ribs will need reducing in height where they impact on the thwart ends.
I decided to use the etch supports partly because I felt they gave the best chance of getting the thwart height correct.
 

9467

9465
The biro gives the relative size of the barge.

9470
I was still keen to check that the thwart height was correct.

9469
Unlike the usual practice of risers along the internal hull to support the thwarts, this kit relies on the central columns and the ribs cut to suit for support.

9468
With the scale figures in place, I am pleased to see that the height is good. It is also clear why barges of this era were rowed single banked.
My use of ‘test’ thwarts has given me the line for the risers, and I don’t really understand why they haven’t been employed on this kit.

48Bb(2)
Once the thwarts and benches are in place small wooden block panels are fitted between the thwarts along hull.
 
This is a simplification of the proper arrangement, perhaps understandable given the scale, but it does look a tad unconvincing to my eye.
The inner hull should be lined over the ribs and decorative mouldings applied.
 
I have an idea of how to do this from my Model Shipways Pinnace build, but that was at 1:24 scale.
 
Before I admit abject defeat, I will have a play around and see what can be done.
 
B.E.
20/11/2022

 
 

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Happy Birthday Chris, have a great day.
Just enjoying the thought of what wonders you will produce in the next 20 years
 
Regards,
 
Maurice (B.E.)

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Happy Birthday Chris, have a great day.
Just enjoying the thought of what wonders you will produce in the next 20 years
 
Regards,
 
Maurice (B.E.)

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I think you have the shape spot on Ron, looks very convincing.
 
A modification you could add is to paint the English Cross of St George in the Hoist section.

These were the four commission pennants of the period. 
Colours of the Red, White, and Blue squadrons, and the Union (Common) pennant as an alternative.
Red and blue (up to 1864), Common (up to 1850). The White remained in use post 1864 as the designated naval colour.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Happy Birthday Chris, have a great day.
Just enjoying the thought of what wonders you will produce in the next 20 years
 
Regards,
 
Maurice (B.E.)

Happy Birthday Chris, have a great day.
Just enjoying the thought of what wonders you will produce in the next 20 years
 
Regards,
 
Maurice (B.E.)