Chuck Seiler
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Thanks Kurt, My intent is to enter it into the "Design in Wood" exhibit at the County Fair in June. I don't plan on winning anything, but I wanted to get it out in public. That may be a factor. Perhaps I will make 2 masts... -
Thanks Dave.
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I have another query for the gallery. The mast for PHILADELPHIA was white pine. If you look at the picture in thread #59, it appears they got a nice straight pine tree, stripped off the branches and smoothed it off. What are your thoughts on making the mast with the bumps/imperfections as opposed to perfectly round?
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Mike, What guns will you be using? John Bratten* lists WASHINGTON as having 1x 18 pounder, 1 x 12 pounder, 2 x 9 pounders and 6 x 6 pounders. *The Gondola PHILADELPHIA & the Battle of Lake Champlain, by John R. Bratten
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Here is how my experimentation with the swivel gun yoke turned out. Not bad for a prototype, but still needs some work. "Barn door" with lower pintol in the background.
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A post to get me back on page 1. I didn't get as much 'ironwork' done last week as I would have liked. This weekend I want to focus on a couple ironwork projects to get key areas done: Pintols for the rudder, swivel gun straps and a prototype swivel gun yoke. Here is what I have ben working on this week. The gun carriages you have seen. Left rear is the rudder (AKA The Barn Door). In the foreground are brass strips cut for the swivel gun straps. Unlike many ships that have the gun mounted on a stock, PHILADELPHIA uses a strap wrapped around the caprail (with some of the caprail cut away). I assume they were easier to make, but it is harder for me...so experiment I will go. I got a lot of work done today, but no fully completed projects. More tomorrow.
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Where does one acquire canopy glue?
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Have you used bloodwood before? I like the look when freshly cut, but it darkens over time. I guess you need to put a finish on it rather quickly.
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Mike, Dang! You guys have a roof not made out of canvas! I see you are using beech for your gundeck framing as well. I did not notice it with the other framing, but it really shows here. Do you only use if for faming or will you use it for planking in any areas? I was thnking about using it for ceiling planking for my next project...give it that miniature oak look. Thoughts?
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Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY. A precision tool with a lot of options. Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it. (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages). http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933
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More on the cook stove. I checked the reference book I spoke of. I stated that when found, the cook stove was located on the center deck, just forward of the port 9 pounder, as indicated here. (Along with cooking gear and at least 1 bone) This is where it is located on the PHILADELPHIA in the Smithsonian It went on to say that due to the scorching on the underside of the mast partner, it was routinely used in the forward cockpit. So, there is evidence it was used in both locations. If you have been following Mike41's build log of his 1775 Row Galley WASHINGTON, you will see a discussion on stoves. See below (I hope this link works) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5902-uss-washington-by-mike-41-1776-row-galley-scale-148/page-4#entry175102 The 'inside story' on that thread is that both PHILADELPHIA and WASHINGTON were part of the Continental fleet at Valcour Island. As the PHILADELPHIA was sinking, the WASHINGTON came alongside and offloaded the crew. Believe you me, they were quire disappointed to learn that, while they were eating hot dogs on a stick, the WASHINGTONians were getting donuts and baked Alaska
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Bob, No worries. It gives me some ideas.
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<sigh!>
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Bob, With regards to using paint brush bristles as nails...are you using natural or synthetic bristles.
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I got the idea on the jig from Clay Feldman, as part of his LEXINGTON build. It helps keep everything aligned properly. Seems like a waste when making 1 or 2 carriages (One 12 pounder and 2 nine pounders), but essential when dealing with 8, 10, 36 guns.
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Tony, Thanks for the tip.
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That sounds like what I use. The bottle says "rubber cement" though. I know they make another type very much like it...more like a contact cement. Maybe that is it.
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If the shafts are going to be 1MM in diameter, and you are adding the blade to the shaft, I would recommend using bamboo for the shaft. I use it for 'functional trunnls' where I want to attach something (deck furniture) with something more than glue. At 1MM it is still strong, however I do not go for any lengths greater than about 1/4 inch. I use bamboo BBQ skewers, Split them to almost the desired diameter, chuck them in a Dremel and sand to the desired diameter.
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As an alternative, check out my gun carriages in GUNBOAT PHILADELPHIA. The process is not as precise as Jay's, but effective for the table saw and dremel folks such as myself. (I would include the link, but I have not mastered that yet.)
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Carriage sides cleaned up. 9 pounder carriage in its jig (right). I stained the jig a little darker so you can differentiate jig from carriage. I'm not sure it helps. 12 pounder slide carriage in its jig (left) with gun mounted for size.
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As promised. Here is a picture of the building jig. I have subsequently made some changes and will show them in a future post. 1. I want to color the jig so the carriage wood is more discernible. 2. The sides come right up to the hole for the rear carriage bolt. When the hole is enlarged to accommodate the bolt, it is lower than the side. I had to put a crease in the jig along that access.
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It sounds like the consensus so far is "natural". I will try some natural stain on scrap and see how it looks.
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The stuff I got from the friend must have been old. It appears lead to me. I looked at AMAZON and found I can get bearings from 1MM up. I will look into doing that.
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I will be doing more work tonight and tomorrow, so I will have more pics...including my assembly jig. A question for the assembled gallery: What color should I make the carriage? I am not s re the plan specifies. My original plan was some sort of brown stain, but I have plenty of brown already. Natural stain? Pale yellow dye? (more of an ocre) Barn red dye (much like the bricks)? Your thoughts and recommendos are encouraged.
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