Landlubber Mike

Me...go commericial....      I retired specifically not to. 
 
Seriously, if  you want laserwork done, contact Chuck or I think it's Rick who also does it.   I've used Chuck's services and he does beautiful work.

Thanks guys.  
 
There's been a lot of blood, sweat, and tears to get it to do this along with some extra cash to upgrade a couple of bits.  
 
I've not seen the magazine Jeff.   The tech is maturing and the price points on a lot of machines are rapidly changing to meet marketing conditions as the market settles in.  There's at least one company is (from what I'm reading in other forums) in dire straights for bad reviews, horrible service and ignoring customers (not MM, by the way).  Unless there's a pressing need, I'd hold off for another 6 months.   For example, the $3000+ machine (50W laser) that I was interested in but not quite affordable is now down to $2000.  I still wouldn't have room for it as its a good 18" longer than one I have......  <sigh><need a bigger workshop>

A side update... I'm doing the drawings for the ship's boats and I'll be putting one together while waiting for glue to dry on the main hull.    So as not to "interrupt the flow of things", I'll either make them a separate log like Danny did for his, or just hold off until the planking is done.  Here's a bit of where I am on these. 
 
The longboat drawings are done but still need some tweaking.  Seems that I didn't always account for kerf which I finally managed to get down to 0.015" (0.381mm).  And man, these things are tiny.  Might just be the end of me....
 
Here's two pics of the parts being cut, which is something I couldn't do on a scrollsaw to save my soul.   I tried and failed several times.

 
 
And here's the resulting parts.... the keel is 5" or 125mm long.  The keel and assorted structural members are 1/16" (1.5mm) thick cherry.  The frames (which look like bulkheads are 1/32" (0.79mm)) cherry and the other parts (knees, seats, thwarts on the upper left and upper right) are 1/32" from scrap holly but I'll have to redo them in boxwood as soon I as get some milled down.  I'm planning on using Chuck's method but gluing the bulkheads upside down into a basswood jig for handling and planking.
 
There (hopefully) will be two more boats.  A barge and cutter and all will be nested into the longboat.
 

Hi Guys,
 
Time for another update.
 
A lot has happened since my last post not least the loss of my pictorial record of the build, it just disappeared. I searched my Laptop to the best of my ability but no luck, fortunately I still have them on my phone but because they had already been downloaded the laptop didn't want to copy the pictures, several hours later I have managed to recover 215 pictures plus the latest photos, I just have to organise them into some sort of order.
 
OK, progress made so-far is as follows:- Waterways ( Box )  are made and fitted, Spirketing ( Redheart ) made and fitted and the Deck Planking ( Holly ) has been laid and drilled out for treenails. The Bulwarks ( Redheart ) have been fitted and made ready for drilling out for the bolts, this will have to wait until the deck is treenailed and given a coat of WOP.
 
I mustn't forget the rings on the hatch have been changed to smaller ones.
 
Time for some pictures I hope.
 
Waterway and Spirketing on the Starboard side

 
The Portside

 
Portside Bulwarks

 
Starboard Bulwarks

 
The deck planks were cut to size and black paper glued to one side for Caulking.

 

 
The first seven planks have been laid, the first plank alongside the waterway required tapering.

 

 
The next three pics are of the completed planking and drilled out ready for the treenails, (a mix of sanding dust).

 

 

 
So that's where I am at the moment, still behind the boss and nowhere near catching up, I have been busy watching the cricket though, oooops.
 
That's it for now gents, any and all comments, remarks and criticisms are welcome. 
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 

It's update time again gents, only a small one this time though.
 
Thank-you one and all for your positive and very kind remarks, also for all who hit the like button.
 
The Mortar pit is now complete and fitted, given the two coats of WOP and the fit became really tight, fortunately a little persuasion and it went home ok.
 
The Hatch coamings are made from Redheart, not familiar with this wood and I don't think I like it very much, It's really easy to work with and I think is softer than Swiss Pear, another drawback is that the filings act very similar to Ebony in that they stain other wood, when sanding down the sandpaper mustn't be used for any other wood, having said all that the effect is very different. 
 
The Hatch Boards are made from Walnut and are so simple, the bend in the boards was formed by moulding them around the Hatch Coaming, you will see the method I used in the pictures, nothing startling there I can assure you.
 
Said Hatch is now complete and fixed onto the deck, the cross section has now been placed into a plastic carrier bag and put aside waiting for company.
 
My attention is currently focused on repairing my Barge which was damaged in the Museum, a log has yet to be set up but will be located in the Scratch Section, this log will be up and running in the next day or so.
 
Picture time
 
The completed Mortar Pit frame

 
Hatch Coaming

 
Old planks laid over the coaming and held down by an elastic band

 

 
The shape for the boards to follow

 
The four boards clamped in place

 
Completed Hatch including the lifting rings, they look a little on the heavy side.

 
Both Mortar Pit and Coaming fixed in position

 

 
So your up to date now guys, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

The stand is made from mahogany with a brown stain. These photos show the stand and finished model and some of her friends.

JC Frankie, it's funny, I was at a liquor store the other day looking at bottles for building a SIB, and saw the Kraken rum bottle.  I thought it would be cool to add a ship and kraken to that bottle - looks like you beat me to the idea!

Just wanted to add to this thread a link to JerseyCity Frankie's Victory.  He uses a mixture of full and furled sails, and his technique gave incredible results.  I plan on adding similar sails to my Pegasus and Lyme builds
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9359-hmsvictory-by-jerseycity-frankie-–-heller-–-plastic-1100-–mostly-rigging-and-sails/

JC Frankie, it's funny, I was at a liquor store the other day looking at bottles for building a SIB, and saw the Kraken rum bottle.  I thought it would be cool to add a ship and kraken to that bottle - looks like you beat me to the idea!

JC Frankie, it's funny, I was at a liquor store the other day looking at bottles for building a SIB, and saw the Kraken rum bottle.  I thought it would be cool to add a ship and kraken to that bottle - looks like you beat me to the idea!

Hi everyone, I started working on furled sails on my Badger build and posted a mini summary on my Badger build log.  At the suggestion of a couple of friends, I thought it might be helpful to repost my technique here on this forum, instead of it possibly being buried in my build log.
 
Here are the pictures of the topgallant yards, which still can use a bit of tweezer work before being set with diluted PVA.  I think there's some room for improvement, but overall I was pleased with how the furled sails are coming out.  I'd love to hear of other techniques or possible suggestions for enhancements.    Thanks!
 
 
 

Rod:
That's my model of the ALICE E. tug that you wanted to build a similar mounting for your tug.  Here are some photos of a friends tug model.  He ran a shipyard so knows what the real dry dock stuff looks like.  I want to do something similar one day.
Kurt

Thanks Mike. Yep, I wish I could have gotten something harder and lighter than the kit tanganyika but so far I'm liking the quality. The width varies from plank to plank so it's a bit of a puzzle but the coloration is good I think.

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ran out of silkspan recently but they substituted model span which to me is the same material.  I used it to added furled sails to Le Superbe.  I am a very happy customer of BJ, not an employee.  
 
Duff

I can't find it on the website either.  I'm fairly certain it was under building materials or something and listed as Modelspan.  I looked at the packaging, and it had the Mantua name/emblem on it, but I don't see it under the Mantua fittings.  Maybe email them and ask?

Damn, that's looking really nice Jason.  Great work!

Yeah, right, Spy -- I've followed your progress on both the Pickle and Pegasus long enough to know you seldom take the "easy" way -- you're a consumate perfectionist!! 
 
Meanwhile, I used some scrap boxwood to line the bottoms of the sweeps.  And what I've realized is that to line all 4 sides, or even 3 would essentially close up the sweep port.  I'll post a picture later, but I think I'm going to take a chance of making them look weird by just setting the bottom linings in.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...
 
Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!
 
As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.
 
I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:
Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.  
Foreyard and Fore Topmast
 
Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged


 
Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.


I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 
Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.


Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 
And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

If it has similar properties to cherry, it might be a great alternative.  
 
Completely different hobby for me, but I know the barbecue guys down in your area use peach a lot instead of cherry when they smoke meats because it has a similar, yet softer, flavor profile.  Now I'm getting hungry   

Looks great Martin, very nice job!

A bit of switching between my cruiser project and back to Granado as it gets too cold to work in the garage has resulted in Granado having her standing rigging finished.
 
Also the very first of the spars is on with the wingsail gaff fitted.
 

 
Also, I've posted this elsewhere but those with a bent for nautical history might like a story I've done on a local shipwreck - the demise of HMS Buffalo.
 

Image: Paul Deacon

The gunport linings/sills:  I found some thin stock left over from my Rattlesnake, and decided that with staining it would work fine.  It's 1/16" holly, which means that at a crucial step its softness comes in handy.
 
First I measured and cut the bottom pieces, since the measurements for the 2 side pieces will come from these.  After staining them with General Finishes Cranberry, I glued them in.  Once the glue dried, I trimmed them flush with the inside of the plywood.
 
                                                              
This is where it's nice to have a softer wood to trim, since the lining is attached to nothing more than the width of the plywood.  I worried that I'd pull at least one lining off, but with a new exacto blade and some luck, I got through them.
 
                                                            
 
These shots require the acrobatic vision of a modelling deity looking down from above, since no 1:64 scale shipwright would be able to reach in and down.
 
Here's the more quotidian view from outside:
 
                                                            
 
Next I measured and cut each side lining, stained them, and glued them in.  Here is a midship port waiting for the two sides to be trimmed:
 
                                                          
 
My decision to line all the gunports had more to do with aesthetics than anything -- I simply think they look good lined, and the red makes for a striking splash.
 
But according to FFM, even the sweep ports get lined.  We'll see how that works out.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

I'm hoping for opinions..  and fear not, I can take critique... 
 
I've sanded and shaped quite a bit on the last cant frame and the transoms.   Is this better?  Does it need more work?
I removed 5 planks, the 3 now installed are only tacked into place and will need beveling, etc.   But I wanted to get an opinion.  I'm thinking they look 100% better, but not sure how "accurate" it is.  Do I need more work on this area?
 
I managed to sort out what my references show (unfortunately, no planking expansion but that's to be expected) for plank that's now wrapped around a bit.  Which what the references seem to show.
 
Thanks in advance.  
 

update: Finished the lower deck planking and the bulwark inner lining + painted. Worked a LOT on squaring off the gun ports properly. Looking at the photos there is still cleaning up to do.
 

 

Ivan is an amazing talent, Karl. I often wonder about the wisdom of having such elaborately carved figureheads adorning ships of war (not Royal barges and the like - those I understand). With the high cost of the carvings and undoubtable high cost of replacement why would they be placed on naval vessels? If I were an enemy gunner I'd take personal pride in knocking it off. I seem to recall however, that the actual number of vessels that ever saw battle was quite low so perhaps damage to them was rather rare.