Landlubber Mike

I saw that in my FiveStar set for the 1/700 destroyer I built.  Hair-thin PE that bends from just breathing on it.

I ended up finishing the three quintuple torpedo launchers this weekend.  Only 36 pieces of PE per launcher 😳  All in all I think they came out ok.  
 

 
Since I'm planning on doing a diorama setting, I decided to make a few modifications.  First, I opened the hatch on one of the turrets: 
 

 
Second, I had found an aftermarket set of torpedo launcher covers, and decided to add them to the launchers as they had a little more definition than the kit plastic, and I was able to model one of the covers open:
 

 
 
Next I worked on the twin 25mm AA gun.  There is only one of these, and Infini has you build it completely from PE.  This time only 18 pieces.  I couldn't get a decent macro photo on my phone, but hopefully this gives an idea.  I'm really impressed by what companies like Infini can do with brass.  There's so much detail it's pretty amazing.
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!

Sorry about the paint issues
 
If you have Netflix, there is a show called Car Masters - Rust to Riches which is a sort of reality show following Gotham Garage.  They did a replica of the Futura in the first season I believe.

I ended up finishing the three quintuple torpedo launchers this weekend.  Only 36 pieces of PE per launcher 😳  All in all I think they came out ok.  
 

 
Since I'm planning on doing a diorama setting, I decided to make a few modifications.  First, I opened the hatch on one of the turrets: 
 

 
Second, I had found an aftermarket set of torpedo launcher covers, and decided to add them to the launchers as they had a little more definition than the kit plastic, and I was able to model one of the covers open:
 

 
 
Next I worked on the twin 25mm AA gun.  There is only one of these, and Infini has you build it completely from PE.  This time only 18 pieces.  I couldn't get a decent macro photo on my phone, but hopefully this gives an idea.  I'm really impressed by what companies like Infini can do with brass.  There's so much detail it's pretty amazing.
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!

Thanks Lou!
 
Yeah the Shimakaze used a newer form of boiler that exceeded the expected speed of 39 knots.  For comparison, the IJN Yukikaze, which was commissioned about two and a half years earlier, had a speed of 35 knots.  So, this was certainly significantly faster, even with the added length to accommodate a third quintuple torpedo launcher.

I ended up finishing the three quintuple torpedo launchers this weekend.  Only 36 pieces of PE per launcher 😳  All in all I think they came out ok.  
 

 
Since I'm planning on doing a diorama setting, I decided to make a few modifications.  First, I opened the hatch on one of the turrets: 
 

 
Second, I had found an aftermarket set of torpedo launcher covers, and decided to add them to the launchers as they had a little more definition than the kit plastic, and I was able to model one of the covers open:
 

 
 
Next I worked on the twin 25mm AA gun.  There is only one of these, and Infini has you build it completely from PE.  This time only 18 pieces.  I couldn't get a decent macro photo on my phone, but hopefully this gives an idea.  I'm really impressed by what companies like Infini can do with brass.  There's so much detail it's pretty amazing.
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!

Thanks Lou!
 
Yeah the Shimakaze used a newer form of boiler that exceeded the expected speed of 39 knots.  For comparison, the IJN Yukikaze, which was commissioned about two and a half years earlier, had a speed of 35 knots.  So, this was certainly significantly faster, even with the added length to accommodate a third quintuple torpedo launcher.

Quick update on the log.  I finished the three main gun turrets, and started work on the Type 0 quintuple torpedo launchers.  A lot of the detail on the kit parts is scraped off and replaced with PE, which adds a little more definition to the parts.  I would say that the railings and ladders are the biggest improvements, but otherwise, the kit parts are fairly nice:
 

 
There are three of these to build, then a whole bunch of AA guns, ammo boxes, etc.  These destroyers really packed a lot on their decks.  
 
Thanks for looking in!

For us working stiffs in the US, hope everyone is having a nice Labor Day!
 
Thought I was at the point where I could update the log.  Slow and steady progress here.  Got the hull and deck items primed and painted.  I used Mr. Surfacer 1500 (black) from a rattle can as primer, and then sprayed a coat of Tamiya XF-87 IJN Grey - Maizuru arsenal.  I have to say, while when first starting out I enjoyed the simplicity of using Vallejo paints, I'm now just about converted over to Tamiya and Mr. Color.  The finish just seems to be nicer, and the spray is more uniform.  Plus, Vallejo tends to gum up my airbrush which is annoying, so small price to pay in using thinners to clean out Tamiya from the airbrush which leaves it fresh.
 

 

 

 
Not a great picture, but here you can see where I replaced the kit molded-in vent on the starboard side with a better looking one from Black Cat:
 

 

 
I'm still trying to decide whether to attempt oil canning effects. It looks really cool, but I'm wondering how much of that effect will be noticeable if in a diorama setting.  I may just try it to get experience with it.  Looks like a lot of tape to paint the vertical and horizontal lines, but I'm not exactly clear on the technique.
 
The linoleum deck pieces come in molded brown plastic.  The Infini upgrade set has you scrape off the molded brass bars, and replace them with actual brass bars.  For this kit, Hasegawa sells a linoleum deck sticker that you attach onto the kit parts after scraping off the molded bars.  Since I had the sticker upgrade, I went ahead and used it.  It's very crisp looking, and fit like a charm.  My guess is that I can add a clear coat to it, and then weather it.
 

 
I've also done some work on the funnels.  Infini gives you quite a a lot to dress them up, from the rings around the funnels to the ladders leading up them. I'm planning to paint them with the white stripes, which is requiring a lot of planning and steps to get it right.  They are halfway done so hopefully I'll have a decent result to show soon.  In the meantime, here is a picture of the funnel tops dressed up in the Infini PE.  I've said it before, but Infini did a really nice job with this set.
 

 
Finally, here are two of the 12.7cm main gun turrets dressed up with the Infini upgrades, shown against the kit part.  Quite a lot of extra detail for sure!  Next to stairways, which I think I've figured out. railings like this are my nemesis as you have super tiny glue anchor points.  The trickiest part for me was to figure out how to glue the top rail, which comes in one piece and extends around the full top, coming down to the front and curving around.  Lots of movement had to be worked in, and it's hard dealing with a long PE strip like that.  For me, it was easiest to start by gluing the middle of the strip to the back side of the turret, then slowly working each side around.  Once the PE is anchored, it was easier to glue the sides down.  Even then, gluing the top rail probably involved close to an hour of work on each.  In total, there were 13 PE parts per turret, and took me the better part of the weekend to complete.  I also made the mistake on the first of sanding off two ridges on the sides, which I thought were the kit's attempts at railings, but turned out they weren't.  🤬  All wasn't lost as I ended up gluing some 0.2mm wire to replace what I sanded off, and they looks like the original thing.  All in all, a lot of work and I'm pretty happy how these came out.
 

 
I still have to do the actual guns part.  Infini has you remove the guns from the kit part and replace them with nice brass guns.  Haven't decided whether to completely assemble the guns, paint gray, and later come through and paint the blast bags white, or paint the turrets and the guns separately, then assemble.  I find it can be tricky painting white over very dark surfaces, which makes me lean towards painting them separately then assemble them.
 
Thanks for looking in!

Do you have the Hasegawa kit or one of the others (Fujimi might make one).  Infini makes very detailed sets for all of them.  
 
If you have the Hasegawa set, did you get the lineoleum deck stickers add-on?  I haven't decided whether to go with them or not.  They have the brass floor bars already painted on.  Infini has you sand off the kit bars, and attach PE bars.  Seems like a ton of work, and tricky to get right when it comes to gluing them on (before painting?  after painting?).  I thought the brass bars might be raised a bit too high and out of scale, but the bars are actually fairly prominent:
 

In case anyone is going to build the Shimakaze, I found some blueprints for the ship online:
 

 

It's been a while, but thought I should update the build log.  I've made slow and steady progress, and am just about at the point where I will paint the hull.  I'm mostly using the Infini upgrade set, but in some cases, the Hasegawa PE set offers details not in the Infini set or that seem a little better.  Took a while to sort out things out as to what I'm going to use, and the timing of when to use it (Hasegawa's instructions have you build things a bit differently, but maybe they aren't expecting one to paint, weather, etc.).  
 
I made a few modifications to the hull, adding aftermarket brass bollards, capstans, etc.  The kit ones weren't too bad, but I thought the brass items offered a little more definition and crispness.  I also noticed in the two build books that there was a small vent on the starboard side of the bow.  I managed to find an aftermarket set of extra vents from Black Cat that I added as well.
 

 

 

 
Also added some other PE details here and there that I aded to the hull.  I messed up the first set of Infini ladders, but found another Infini ladder set that gave me the replacements I needed.
 

 
I also added PE to a number of the deck structures.  I have a few other details to add to the bridge it looks like from the Hasegawa set.  I'll probably also replace the side vent on the bridge, which seem awfully squished, with the Black Cat vents.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have a few ladders and other add-ons to put on the hull, and then will paint.  I want to get as much done on the hull as possible to avoid having to glue on things later and address excess glue.  Of course that means I need to be a little more careful handling the hull, but I picked up a hull cradle that might give a little extra protection.
 
Thanks for looking in!
 

Very nicely done!  How are you planning to display these with the ship?

I placed an order with NorthStar back in June, and the package for some reason sat for two months and then wasn't allowed to leave the country due to paperwork issues.  The NorthStar folks were very nice and apologetic, so hopefully round two will go a little smoother.  Definitely need to order way in advance from Russia, Ukraine, etc.

I have a 1/32 Kingfisher kit and it's going to be hard for me to replicate that look!  I can only imagine at 1/350.  But, I'm sure you'll do a great job on them.    

At 1/700, I wouldn't bother deburring.  Any tiny bits are likely not going to be seen, and I found you run a risk of ruining the part - or worse yet, losing it if it happens to ping off somewhere.  On my current 1/350 build, I'll spend some time deburring but only for larger, more robust pieces.
 
The spiders take time but really aren't too difficult.  Pre-bend the legs down, then test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  Just make sure that if the funnel is not symmetrical, that you have the spider set up the correct way.  Once you get the legs close to final fit, you can start gluing one end, and then adjust the legs as you glue the others.  This is one area where having very thin brass is an advantage.
 
 

At 1/700, I wouldn't bother deburring.  Any tiny bits are likely not going to be seen, and I found you run a risk of ruining the part - or worse yet, losing it if it happens to ping off somewhere.  On my current 1/350 build, I'll spend some time deburring but only for larger, more robust pieces.
 
The spiders take time but really aren't too difficult.  Pre-bend the legs down, then test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  Just make sure that if the funnel is not symmetrical, that you have the spider set up the correct way.  Once you get the legs close to final fit, you can start gluing one end, and then adjust the legs as you glue the others.  This is one area where having very thin brass is an advantage.
 
 

Great start Glen!  Looking forward to following along.  If you need any plan details, etc., let me know and I'm happy to help.

At 1/700, I wouldn't bother deburring.  Any tiny bits are likely not going to be seen, and I found you run a risk of ruining the part - or worse yet, losing it if it happens to ping off somewhere.  On my current 1/350 build, I'll spend some time deburring but only for larger, more robust pieces.
 
The spiders take time but really aren't too difficult.  Pre-bend the legs down, then test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  Just make sure that if the funnel is not symmetrical, that you have the spider set up the correct way.  Once you get the legs close to final fit, you can start gluing one end, and then adjust the legs as you glue the others.  This is one area where having very thin brass is an advantage.
 
 

At 1/700, I wouldn't bother deburring.  Any tiny bits are likely not going to be seen, and I found you run a risk of ruining the part - or worse yet, losing it if it happens to ping off somewhere.  On my current 1/350 build, I'll spend some time deburring but only for larger, more robust pieces.
 
The spiders take time but really aren't too difficult.  Pre-bend the legs down, then test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  Just make sure that if the funnel is not symmetrical, that you have the spider set up the correct way.  Once you get the legs close to final fit, you can start gluing one end, and then adjust the legs as you glue the others.  This is one area where having very thin brass is an advantage.
 
 

I have finished the AA guns. The white marks are ammunition boxes made of 0,8mm rectangle balsa much easier than folding PE.
I am now scratchbuilding the front mast with 0.6 and 0.8mm PE brass rods. Later i will use other material for the top antenna.

I finished deck floor. The next step is bridge. Multiple masking and airbrushing work is waiting. 😂

All finished. Forgot to post. 

Spent Labour Day working on Bluenose - specifically the cabin construction. I've not yet completed it - with the skylight, binnacle and stovepipe still to add - but so far this has been a fun little mini-build. It's a lot of fun to put these deck features together - one of my favourite parts of ship modelling (other than tying ratlines, obviously)!
 
I took patterns from the deck framing drawings for the general outline of all the superstructural elements on deck, then transferred these to card stock and made templates for the general "footprint" of these elements as well as for the fore and aft panels of the cabin, which curve in line with the deck camber. I started by edge gluing some 1/16" x 1/8" strips together, then trimming these built up panels to the correct size and shape. I then added internal reinforcements (1/8" square pieces) and also reinforced the whole assembly by adding a base cut from a sheet of 1/32" lime and some 1/8" square battens on this. After that it was pretty straightforward - I used some leftover parts for the portholes and went with a different colour scheme than the one suggested on the plans - neutral grey (like the waterways) in place of burnt umber. I made the companionway frames a bit too wide for the 3/16" door panels, but I had a 1/32" x 1/32" strip that worked perfectly as a divider...some brass nails serve as door handles. Anyway, it's a little rustic looking, but I'm decently happy with the results. Now that a new working year has begun, I'm going to have to restrict my modelling to weekend mornings for a while....in the meantime....enjoy the photos!
hamilton

Hello all and happy Saturday
 
Quick update on Bluenose. Over the last couple of days, I've touched up the outboard hull painting, focusing specifically on the cove (yellow) and the waterline strip (white) to clean them up as much as possible - I only have a photo of the preparation of this and don't seem to have any right now of the cleaned up paint job....sorry!
 
I also made templates of the deck superstructures from card paper, fixing them temporarily to the top of the bulkhead frames to mark out their positions and identify where framing strips need to be added between the bulkheads. I added this framing this morning after completing the finishing of the inboard bulwarks and stanchions. 
 
There are a couple of little clean-up tasks to complete before starting to build up the deck superstructures. First I need to sand down the stanchions to the level of the sheer - a tedious process, but unavoidable. Then I need to epoxy the forward mounting nut to the bottom of the keel. Then it's on to more fun stuff with the superstructures and deck planking! 
 
Enjoy the photos
hamilton