Landlubber Mike

Got the wing roots masked, then the tops of the wings got painted. Photos shown are with masks attached, then masks removed.
 

Next will mask the fuselage at the upper wing root, and then paint the tops of wings navy blue. This will complete the basic tri color camo scheme, but there are some details to paint and add before decals and weathering.
 

Ahhh,.... brings back some memories for me. Looks like things are progressing nicely with your La Renommee. Will check back often to see your progress.
 
JP

Adding to what Mark said, in my build of this ship, the three ports towards the bow were 36 mm centre-centre, one at the stern was only 33 mm from the next port forward with the majority between being 35 mm. Overall, this worked out to be 34.7 mm. Visually, there appeared to be little difference between the gunport separations.
 
I continue watching with interest Mark !
 
Pete

Very nice work mike.
 
OC.

If you saw how many hours I spent fumbling around with things, it wouldn't have looked too easy   But thank you for the kind words.  
 
I have to say that while dealing with gunport strips on Caldercraft, Amati and other kits can be a little of a pain, in the end they are much easier to deal with than cutting out your own.  It might have been a lot easier if the bulkheads were arranged in such a way (and quantity) that the gunport fit equidistant between bulkheads, but that wasn't the case with this kit. 

You're doing a really nice job on it.  Great work!  
 
I'm with you on the PE.  My introduction has been working on a 1/700 destroyer with a full PE detail set.  Stupid me, but for some reason I thought that 1/700 would be better introduction since the kit and PE set were cheaper than a a similar 1/350 kit, but I didn't realize the pieces would be that small.  Optivisor is a must as the parts are practically microscopic, and you better not sneeze!  I think I'm getting the hang of it though.  When I start with 1/350, the PE might look much bigger (though they probably have similarly sized extreme detail pieces).

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Nicely done OC!  That paint scheme is going to look really sharp.  Looking forward to seeing this come together.

Making some really good progress there Mark.  Very nice job!

And...... she's done and on the shelf.  Pics below. My only comment is that there really should be a better way to glass than thick plastic.  <sigh>
 
And one last tale from Vietnam.   We had made a delivery of assorted goods (c-rats, ammo) to platoon in the field.   On the way back to base, we're lumbering along at about 500 feet and maybe 100 knots speed.   Kind of relaxing.   The left door gunner, who was the 1st mech for chopper (I was at the right) suddenly yells.. "taking fire request permission to returnn....".   That's all he got out when the pilot broke in with "Hell yes." and started banking to the left to help the gunner out.   As we started the bank and he started working the .50, I moved over to his side and started reading a second box of ammo.   I looked out and he's shooting at a water buffalo that surrounded by 6 guys in black PJ's shooting at us.   He nailed 4 right off the bat, we're loosing altitude (intentionally) when the water buffalo explodes.   I looked at him, he at me, and we both just went "Wow".   While this was going on,  Huey Cobra showed up just after the explosion and he dropped down low and slow and then reported back that there's 6 bodies and one crater.   Hey... we felt good.  Better them than us.   We landed, checked the plane and wandered off.   The next morning, I bumped into the Colonel (our pilot) and he told me to go look at the side of the chopper.   On the 1st mechs side, under the window where the gun was, there was painted a "kill" like the WWII fighters.... but this was a water buffalo with an "X" through it.   Loved it and wish I knew were my albums were as I know I had a picture of it.
 
So much for wandering down memory lane for now.  It's been both fun and hard, but worth the trip to me.   I'm now going to go focus on the Bellle Poule.  And thanks to everyone who put up me remembering like some old guy... wait... I am an old guy.

With the paint/thinner I'm using, about an hour and the masks can come off safely.
However, because of the tri color scheme, I will add more masks before the masks you see here will come off. Probably later tonight or tomorrow.
Paint used: Mr Color with Mr Color 400 leveling thinner

The tri-color US Navy scheme requires a lot of masking. Would be nice if there was a pre cut paint mask available. In hindsight, I could have cut my own paint masks much easier if I had done that before starting construction, using my kit parts as a pattern. Next time.
Getting closer to the finish line now.
 

 

My heart goes out to you Mike.
 
I doubt I would even attempt working in 1/700 anymore, let alone with PE! I think the developers of PE do not care about the practicality of applying their product. At least with the Eduard stuff I am currently using. As an example they make the seat belts into a dozen parts for each belt! even the buckles have four or five parts to make up the complete buckle! And that is just one side! With a microscope and a pair of micro manipulators I could probably make working buckles from the parts supplied. In fact I know I could.
 
I have 1/350 PE for my USS Houston and was shocked when I saw the size of the barrels for the 1.1" AA guns! Ants have bigger legs than these barrels! The same holds for the PE for my Titanic build for my wife!
 
I found a pair of +4 reading glasses and bought them. They came yesterday so now I will possibly be able to see if I can do better when I can actually see what the stuff looks like. 
 
Thanks for the support. My personal thought is that compared to several others here on this forum My build is average at best. but it still sounds nice to hear.

Ah... the catch is the in real life, gunports seldom are equidistant from each other.    You can move them a bit or put them where the plans say they go.   I'll be running into that on my Belle Poule build probably sooner than later.   The plans show ports with a bulkhead right in the middle of them.  On the other hand, with the spacing of the deadeyes in the channels, it's a necessary evil so firing a cannon doesn't kill the rigging.
 
Your ports look great from here and I'd say all the fussing and frustration is worth it.

Thanks Mike!
 
It was a lot of fun to do a POB and not worrying whatsoever about aligning planks from side to side.
 
Alan

A Nice Video/Photography of a couple of F-16's in Arizona enjoy
 
 

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

If you saw how many hours I spent fumbling around with things, it wouldn't have looked too easy   But thank you for the kind words.  
 
I have to say that while dealing with gunport strips on Caldercraft, Amati and other kits can be a little of a pain, in the end they are much easier to deal with than cutting out your own.  It might have been a lot easier if the bulkheads were arranged in such a way (and quantity) that the gunport fit equidistant between bulkheads, but that wasn't the case with this kit. 

Update: @VTHokiEE : The tarmacs are from Verlinden Products probably out of production now since they retired and someone else took over the name.
 
Here's the other mini diorama  - in this one the tarmac is wet/dry emery paper
 

An A-10 ?  Like this ?   Done with airbrush and Floquil paints about 20-25 years ago.  Weathering enhanced by common household dust.   I forget what scale it is.  Camo pattern done free hand, no masking.
 
Actually airbrushing is not as daunting as you would think.  Takes a bit of practice but it is easily mastered. 
 

 
 

Really nice Alan!  Not sure I've seen someone do a POB SIB build (usually they are solid hull or pieces thereof) but yours came out fantastic.  Even more important, it fit through the neck of the bottle   Thanks for sharing!

Making some really good progress there Mark.  Very nice job!

Very cool model - love the set up against the picture.  Well done!