MEDDO

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

In 1950, my mother took me to the auditorium in O’Neils Department Store in Akron, Ohio to see a traveling exhibit of model ships.  These models, built by a renown builder named August Crabtree are now a Crown Jewel in the Collection of the Mariners Museum in Newport News, Virginia.  That experience and the presence of models at home built my father convinced me that I wanted to build model ships.  I have been trying to do so ever since.
 
As soon as I graduated from college, I started to amass a collection of tools. As a newly minted USNR Ensign, one of the few things that I owned to be shipped to my duty station was my toolbox.  I still have and use many of these tools.  Over the intervening years, I have gradually outfitted what I consider to be a first class workshop without stress to personal finances. To the contrary, these tools have paid for themselves several times over completing dozens of projects unrelated to ship modeling.  I should add that I live in a region where homes with space for a workshop are the norm.
 
Complimenting my tool collection is a collection of books that I began buying in the 1960’s.  I consider these to also be essential to the building of quality models.
 
My point is that $1700 will buy a lot of tools and books.   The quality of many of the completed kits built by members of this forum is astonishing!  I can only marvel at the talents and skills that I lack that went into building these, but in the end they are still kits.  If your circumstances allow, spend your money building a proper workshop and library, and build something unique from scratch.

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

It looks great.  When I was building the Pygmy kayak I usually made the thickened epoxy about the consistency of peanut butter.  The problem is the bigger the globs the more you have to sand/carve the extra off.  With a clinker hull that would be harder to do.  I ended up using one of these things and it worked out pretty well.
 

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

Glad you are doing a full build log for this.  I have been interested in the CLC boats for a while.  A few years ago I built a Pygmy kayak and had a great time and learned a ton.  I have been trying to get the wife to allow me to go for the Annapolis wherry but so far she’s not having it...

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

I used the Chuck method on my Queen Anne Barge and the flags came out surprisingly well.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

Welcome to MSW!!!  As @Louie da fly mentioned above please start a build log as it really is a great way to get to know everyone and show your work and ask questions.
 
I would also like to invite you to check out our Ohio modeling club.  Shipwrights of Ohio (formally known as Shipwrights of Central Ohio) has its home base just north of Columbus.  We meet the 3rd sat morning usually at the Westerville public library but as that is no longer an option in COVID-times we are holding zoom meetings instead.  We have members from all over Ohio who participate.  If interested you can pm me or @Feathermerchant our president.  

Thank you to all the 'Likes'
 
The port sills
I added the gunport sills.In order to be sure that the positioning is the same on both port and starboard, I replaced a temporary batten on the opposite side so that I could position the port sills well level. The port sills are cut from a 1/4" x 1/4" alaskan yellow cedar.

 
The port uprights have been cut to different thicknesses from a 1/4" sheet of yellow alaskan cedar using my Byrnes table saw, , measurements were carefully taken from the plan.

 

 
The sanding was first done roughly with my Proxxon OZI/E delta sander and then finished by hand with different grains of sandpaper.

 
Hell and damnation! I discover with amazement that on the starboard side the positioning of the upright port of the first gunport at the bow is slightly too inside and that once the sanding is finished, the bottom of the piece is too inside a few tenths of a millimeter...
There are three possibilities: the first is to remove the part and replace it with a new one that will be positioned correctly. But I'm too afraid to break the bulkhead knowing that Titebond glue is a super glue! Second option: vertically cut the piece and replace only the front part. But I'm afraid to mark the piece horizontally and finally have to start the gunport sill all over again.
Finally, I opt for a repair of the missing part. I still have to find the right product to use... Then I remember one of the properties of the putty which is not to adhere to the plastic. So I make a 'formwork' using a piece of plastic packaging (transparent plastic, the one that wraps for example chocolate boxes or other foodstuffs) glued with double-sided tape on one side of a wooden piece. This piece is then fixed with a clamp on the side to be filled. My 'formwork' will allow me to obtain a completely smooth and level inner face. Once the putty hardens, the scrap wood ('formwork') can be removed without causing any damage because the plastic will have prevented the putty from sticking to the 'formwork' and will have made a completely smooth and level surface.
Naturally, this option could only be chosen because the repaired area will eventually be painted red and therefore the choice of a different material than wood is not important.

 

 
Finally, once the work is finished on the different port sills, I realize that the two forward chase ports are not at the same level of detail as the others. At first, I thought that my cut was good but comparing the result with the other ports I decide to add port uprights. So I enlarge the 2 gunports by making two vertical cutouts of 1/16th and add the vertical pieces using the reference chase. My two forward chase ports are now identical to all other gunport sills.

 
One last sanding with a very fine grit and I will be able to move to the stern.

 

 
You may have noticed that I have started working on the two rooms. I'll talk about it again once the work is more advanced.
 
 
 
 

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

I used Elmer's Extra Strength Glue Stick for the friezes on my Medway Longboat.  Seems to work just fine.

For the frieze on my pinnace I simply used a child’s glue stick.  Worked great