MEDDO

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

As you may have noticed I have not made any posts for a while. Pressure of work and now a new job have all made work on my chaloupe nigh on impossible, sadly. I do have some progress which I have not yet reported on and in which you might be interested.
 
Since my last post I have faired the frames as far as possible. Here are a couple of photos:
 
 
 
However at this stage I began to think something was wrong.... It took me a while, but after much fiddling trying to get the keel, stem and stern posts aligned to each other and square to the mould, I realised that the mould itself was not true. This photo shows the problem:
 

 
I think that the stack of MDF laminates was able to slide sideways at the point while the glue was still wet and I was tightening the clamps. I considered sanding the sides square, but concluded that this would only lead to a misshapen mould. So I made a new one, taking more care this time to ensure everything was aligned properly.
 
Here are the two moulds side-by-side. The differences are not obvious, but the second one is unquestionably more accurate.
 

 
Because I had not glued anything to anything else at this stage (with the exception of the floors and futtocks making up each individual frame) I was able to unpin everything from the old mould and re-fix it to the new one. Although the frames had been made over the old mould they fit the new one well enough, so in the end there was not much other than the mould to redo.
 
  
 
So now I was able to make proper forward progress with the transom. You can see the top piece in the picture with all the frames above. This pinned nicely to the back of the sternpost and square to the mould. The next step was to fix two pieces of thin (1.5 mm) ply, roughly profiled to the shape of half the transom, to each side of the stern post, tucked under the top piece. These were pinned in place until the glue was dry. The outer profile was sanded using a round sanding stick running across the last few frames. The outer surface of each side of the transom was boarded with 5 x 1 mm cherry and again the ends were sanded to the correct profile.
 
 
 
The final pieces of progress are the two wales. These needed spiling to the correct longitudinal shape and then profiling in section using a scraper filed into a piece of scrap brass. Once they were soaked and curved to the right plan form they could be glued in place. At this point the framework is strong enough to remove from the mould as you can see.
 
       
 
And that is nearly as far as I have got to date. I have made the two garboard strakes, but they are not finished yet or fitted. Hopefully I will get some more time soon!
 
Thanks for reading.
 
Rob
 
 

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

Well with the corrections nearly complete I thought it might be a good idea to do produce a proto-type build log (of sorts). Obviously unlike other kits ESSEX has already been released but it and the members here on MSW didn’t have the benefit of seeing it come together.
This will hopefully give everyone a chance to see the details in the kit, ask any questions they may have and hopefully clear up any misconceptions about the kit.
How I’ll conduct this is to follow along with the manual, although I won’t be posting the actual pages but some of the photos and details.
I’ll do this over a series of weeks (the manual is 15 chapters). It’s my intent to complete this in no more than half that time.
One note, any updates regarding the corrections will continue to be posted in that thread. This thread is solely about the design and build of the proto-type.
 
 

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

I was asked to bring the model to the Fell's Point Maritime Museum in Baltimore on July 22nd, 2012, for a one day display to commemorate the anniversary of the first 7 letter of marque vessels to sail out of Fell's Point for the War of 1812.  It wasn't possible for me to fully complete the model in time, or even get it sailable, but I resolved to do as much as I could to make her presentable for display.  The Pride of Baltimore II would be there, and I had sailed on Pride with her captain, Jon Miles, ie: someone intimately familiar with the boat I was modeling would see it, but hey, no pressure.
 
In preparation though, I bolt-roped all the sails, worked out a chart of what rigging blocks she would need, and began making them.

 
The sails are roped with a three-stranded nylon cord.  The bolt rope is glued to the sail with fabric glue as well as sewn in an abbreviated version of the way real ones are sewn on.  A bolt rope isn't sewn the the edge of a sail, but rather to one side of it right at the edge.  Each stitch passes between two strands of the line, through the third, and into the sail, where it takes a turn back around and repeats in the next strand.  Each turn is in the direction of the lay of the line sew the stitching disappears into the lay of the bolt rope.  In stead of every strand, I stitched through every three or four strands.  The stitching is somewhat visible at this scale, especially on the "back-side" of the sail from the bolt rope, but the glue makes up for the reduced structure.
 
 
Eyes, cringles, garnets, etc, along the edge of the sail were made with the bolt rope.  grommets in the sail are burned with the pointed tip of a soldiering iron.  This is a nice feature of using Supplex, holes can be made for reef-points, for example, that are heat sealed and require no further reenforcing.  Eyes are formed around a round toothpick to maintain constant size and keep the from closing while sewing's in progress.  Grommets are burned in near each eye for and the bolt rope is seized on either side, just as a real sail is constructed.  Well, this IS a real sail, just a small one.  By-the-way, did I mention I used to work at Ulmer Kolius sail makers near Annapolis?  I didn't usually sew on bolt ropes there, that I learned working on boats such as Pride; at Ulmer I did things like putting ducks on Flashers (a genoa/spinnaker hybrid).
   
 
The yards got foot-ropes and I made some unsheaved blocks to cover for this display.
 
 
 
 

 
The sails were attached to their spars, the main and fores'l to the mast hoops,  Halyards rove, and bit by but, Pride was dressed. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
I was ready.  I even cobbled together a slide show of the models construction and loaded it onto an e-frame, and made up some hand-outs with specs on the model and the real Pride.
 
Unfortunately, the events schedule was changed to a day I would be out of town for something else - so Pride didn't get publicly displayed.
 
Later, I made and attached fairleads to the fore tops'l for the bunt-lines which I made from a bamboo chopstick.  I found the new information on the pump heads mentioned previously.  And noted a sort of rub rail under the hawse pipes of the original boat and a difference in how the wale finished at the bow.

 
I took a shot at turning a gun barrel, one in pine, one in cherry - neither of which I'm satisfied with.  The carriage was better, but I had to draw scaled plans as Gilmer's drawings of the guns were a bit cartoonish.
 
 
The model's been moved to my new residence, as I move out of my house.  With no consistent income since being fired in January 2012, after 18 years, the house is being foreclosed on.
For the moment, Pride sits on top of a cabinet in the living room waiting for the new shop to come online.

This was my first time publicly displaying a model.  It was a learning experience to be sure.  The 10 mph wind was more like 15 plus some interesting backwind off the bow flare of the NS Savannah.  The 20 x 30 foot pool was no where near enough room for Constellation to actually sail, not to mention it was set-up on a slope and most of it was too shallow.  The wind flogged her jury rigged controls so loose so that after a short while, I just tied her up at the windward end.
 
My friend Mark brought his little schooner Son of Erin and she was the belle of the ball, nimbly scooting about the pool, sailed by children and the director of Historic Ships at Baltimore, keepers of the real Constellation.
 
Ultimately, the model got some exposure, especially to some local maritime folks who wanted to see more of it at local port promoting functions.  The model, at least, may get a job, if not her builder
 
Don't forget you can click on these images to see larger versions:
 
Packed into a Ford Windstar
 
  At the Baltimore Port Expo
 
  In the pool
 
  Sails filled and nowhere to go
 
  "Anchored"
 
  Chesapeake Bay Ram Conrad Fuller and tug Delaware, both 1:24 scale.
 
  Delaware
 
  Forrest Sherman class destroyer in 1:96 scale.
 
Schooner Son of Erin frolicked in the pool
 
  Pride of Baltimore II gave free rides
 
  NS Savannah

I now have a total of 10 guns mounted.  I also added the bilge pumps and the aft gallows, although it isn’t glued.  I acquired a new spool of 28 gauge wire that is annealed and it is much stronger than the wire I was using that I got from a craft store.  It’s much easier to work with.  My method for rigging the guns is to do everything before the carriage, with barrel attached, is installed on the deck.  The holes on the bulwark are drilled and the eyebolt for the outhaul tackle is in; and the barrel attached to the carriage before installation.
I do agree that the whole process of setting up the carriage/gun is lengthy, but I try to break it up by doing 4 guns and then working on some deck furniture.  So I have 10 down and 4 to go.  Next up is the capstan – and I’m not pleased with the kit supplied one.  I’m going to have to create my own somehow.
 

This will be my third model ship and second plank on bulkhead ship. In addition to this web site I will be building the Pride of Baltimore II (POB II) with the assistance of Robert Hunts Sophomore course practicum, and of course all of you here at MSW. I thank you all in advance for your help and input along the way.

I must confess I am hesitant to start this log as there are already three magnificent build logs under way for this ship. I fear that I may have little to offer as I am very much a beginner and I do not posses any great skill, but I do have a desire to strive for perfection and like all of you a love and fascination with these beautiful tall ships that are reminders of our past. So with some trepidation and having being inspired by the craftsmanship of others here I have decided to take the plunge.

I chose the POB II for many reasons not the least of which is she is a beautiful ship, but also as I think she offers a great deal as a way to learn and improve as a model shipwright. She presents some new challenges compared to the AVS but in a way that is a natural progression for new builders.

The keel was first laid December 08, 2012 shortly after completing my Armed Virginia Sloop. Work progressed to the point where I had begun the process of planking the hull and had completed the first 6 rows below the wales. Some of the photos from early construction are posted below. Then life took me away and the poor ship has sat idle until recently. Like many others this hobby has a way of always pulling me back and the pride as waited patiently for my return.

So baby steps.  Getting some time in and was able to place the stern side window.
 
I planked a bit of the stern first.
 

 
then measured for the window
 

 
then.....
 

 
ouch...
 

 
and i guess it doesn't look too bad
 

I like the half run out and the other side run in.

Hello friends,
thank for the kind comments and likes.
Karl    
 
 
 
T e i l   4 7
 
 
Upper-Deck
 
 
The upper deck armament is made up of 12-pdrs canons.

The next step was a hard one.  Adding the wales.  I found out that I did not leave a large enough rabbit at the bow to put the end of the wale plank into.  I had to carve out a small notch to be able to get the wale in place.
 

 
With a bit of soaking in water and then steaming in my kettle I was able to form the bend of the wale.
 

 
So I think I found the "wall side" and the "room side" of the model.  
 

 
Not a bad first attempt.
 

 

Are you kidding me?!?!?! It looks great!!!

This is how I always thought of it.  I saw this picture and the flag seems in line with the square yard.
 

So baby steps.  Getting some time in and was able to place the stern side window.
 
I planked a bit of the stern first.
 

 
then measured for the window
 

 
then.....
 

 
ouch...
 

 
and i guess it doesn't look too bad
 

Ben, Mark, and Patrick sounds like a tavern is a great idea.
 
Grant, HA! Cameras are everywhere
 
Antony, Will be updating soon.  Unfortunately I have hit a few massive overtime weeks here at work.  Should be back soon.  Thanks for stopping by.

So baby steps.  Getting some time in and was able to place the stern side window.
 
I planked a bit of the stern first.
 

 
then measured for the window
 

 
then.....
 

 
ouch...
 

 
and i guess it doesn't look too bad
 

So baby steps.  Getting some time in and was able to place the stern side window.
 
I planked a bit of the stern first.
 

 
then measured for the window
 

 
then.....
 

 
ouch...
 

 
and i guess it doesn't look too bad
 

If your model doesn't have sails, and thus no presumed wind direction,  point them any way you like and no one can tell you you are wrong. 

I've decided to glue and fix the fittings of the deck before I start the bowsprit assembly.
These are some pics of my latest progress.

My personal "taste" of coloring (using dark-mate varnish) of the capstan and companionway.
The walnut parts of the kit were too pale in my opinion...

Four more guns made up, mounted and rigged -- only four more to go on the gun deck. I can't imagine doing this on a 74. As usual, I added the deck ringbolts. I also ran the anchor cables into the open hatch and added a piece of grating in an open position. Lastly, I tied off the fore lower sheets to their bulwark cleats since they will be unreachable when the deck framing goes on.
 
Bob

So baby steps.  Getting some time in and was able to place the stern side window.
 
I planked a bit of the stern first.
 

 
then measured for the window
 

 
then.....
 

 
ouch...
 

 
and i guess it doesn't look too bad