GLakie

Thanks Mark. I will consider that approach.
Meanwhile I am still experimenting with alternate methods. I still think using the very light weight fabric I have is a bit easier than wet tissue paper. However, I am using white glue on the edges to stabilize the hammock shape.
Also, I am committed to using the 'hook and eye bolt' approach (instead of the other way around). Hence the hammock will have a ring with hook. For my purposes that is not all that critical.
More to come.
 
Here is my second approach to making the hammocks. I had trouble with sewing the lines that go through the eye of the hook. They did not line up right.
This time I laid out three lines (doubled up) and glued the hammock material to it (on the back side). It is tricky but if I can repeat what I show below, I will be satisfied.

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 6 – Upper Stern
 
After erecting all the “square frame” bulkheads, a foundation for the circular stern was fashioned from blocks of ¾” pine – one for the area above the wale and one for the lower section.  First the upper piece.  The first picture shows a piece of ¾” pine stock with a pattern for the top pasted on.
 

 
The pattern for the underside of this piece as well as the pattern for bulkhead 48 showing the positioning of the blocks is shown.  The circular (really elliptical) pattern line on the top of the block is the line of the fancy rail at the top of the framing.  It is also the line of the main rail.  The hull is vertical between these two lines at the stern.  The curve of the lower side of this block – shown on the cut out bottom pattern – is roughly at the line of the wale.
 
In the next picture both patterns have been aligned and attached and the line at the top is being cut on the scroll saw.
 

 
Note that a hole for the helm port was bored through this piece.  The key hole shape of this was cut out once the curve was cut.  In the next picture the piece is held at its proper position on the aft side of bulkhead 48 and the curve of the deck at that point is being marked.
 

 
Do to the shear of the decks, the top of the piece will be higher at the very stern.  The top of the piece is next pared off to yield the correct shear and round up to provide the surface for deck planking.  In the next picture this has been done and the line of the main rail is being marked out.
 

 
The underside of the main rail is about 18” below the fancy rail line to allow two strakes of 6” plank and the 6” main rail to fill the space above the line.  The area below this line is then cut back at an angle to the line on the underside pattern as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Most of the wood removal was done on the disk sander, then refined using the rasp shown.  In the next picture the piece has been glued to bulkhead 48 – after removal of part of the bulkhead pattern.
 

 
Note that the stern piece is slightly smaller than the bulkhead.  This is due to the curvature of the hull.  The forward face of the bulkhead is on station 48.  The aft edge will be faired back to its smaller line.  The other block in this picture – marked with a center line - will be the lower stern piece.  Next time.
 
Ed

Now that you have the planks to lay better on the hull are you going to go back and replace the battens and taper the strakes for final fitting and attachment?
Tom

Coming together.  I've been looking forward to this sprucing up.

John,
 
That deck looks tremendous. Very nice work (as always!).
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Beautiful built hull John,
 
Framework, planking and deck look great...
 
Nils

Looking very much the speedy lady John, nicely done!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Lovely work John, as always.

It's been a while since I've been able to get to the museum, so no work has been done on the Pritt for a few weeks.  In spite of the museum being top heavy with kids yesterday because of the school holidays, I still managed to get quite a bit done.  The deck has now been completely treenailed and rough sanded down.  Next step will be to make the capping rail, then bring her home for a couple of coats of clear finish before starting on the detail work.
 
John
 
The fore end rough sanded
 


 
Looking a bit more civilised


 
 

It looks more pleasing to my eye also but I'll defer to Cog and Augie.

I'm no expert on this design but need to say that you've made her much more pleasing to the eye.  I'll defer to cog's comment.

nice to catch up on your log mark, absolutely fantastic progress

Mark,
 
As far as I can see it should be about perfect. If you'd go on, you might take off to much ...

I'm hoping for opinions..  and fear not, I can take critique... 
 
I've sanded and shaped quite a bit on the last cant frame and the transoms.   Is this better?  Does it need more work?
I removed 5 planks, the 3 now installed are only tacked into place and will need beveling, etc.   But I wanted to get an opinion.  I'm thinking they look 100% better, but not sure how "accurate" it is.  Do I need more work on this area?
 
I managed to sort out what my references show (unfortunately, no planking expansion but that's to be expected) for plank that's now wrapped around a bit.  Which what the references seem to show.
 
Thanks in advance.  
 

... and they are every Cent worth.

Looks awesome Robb. Good call with the production line, they all look very consistent.

Hi Robb,
 
Your build looks great and I am amazed at how fast you are moving!
 
Enjoy your vacation! 
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Yes Chuck. otherwise known as Dave in my mixed up world.
Maybe there's still time. I'd have to re-do all the deadeyes.... I'll think about it when I'm up at Lake George next week.

They look good Robb.  I would stick with whatever design the plans call for here. The chain plates will take care of the support when the shrouds go up. As far as interspersing text with pics. Just put a space down from the main paragraph, insert your pic, then type your text. Or if the text is short, type the text first, then insert the pic, if you want the text next to the pic. 

39 C? A little too hot to do very much Nenad. I agree! Stay in a cool place, like a cool garage, or an air-conditioned bar.    Catheads look great Nenad. 
 
Cheers

Very nice Clare. Thank you for posting explanations for the individual pages. With a build like this to reference, it'll make it much easier for guys like me to pull the trigger on buying these kits, and then building them. 

In retrospect I wish I had gotten Dave's deadeyes, I think they would have looked much better than the kit supplied ones. They are all lopsided and off-center.

Well, that was easy. All the images and links were there, I just had to resubmit the post.
 
Hi George, that's my hope. The instructions for this kit are short enough to be able to detail them here – We're nearly half way through the build.
 
More soon!
Clare

Chris - Doh!!! Why, I oughta...

Very nice Clare. Thank you for posting explanations for the individual pages. With a build like this to reference, it'll make it much easier for guys like me to pull the trigger on buying these kits, and then building them.