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kirill4

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  1. kirill4
    Thanks, Interesting...what is inside the book Robert Kipping "Masting and Rigging"? If possible, could You make a few pictures of content? Thank You very much! Regarding H.Underhill...I purchased his book here https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/books/page
  2. kirill4
    You snown two separate racks ? Is it necessary to do like this? Why not single of 4 rows?
  3. kirill4
    Michael, :))) For defehetly aswers, may be we could ask one of our french colleques , how did they manage details of this rigging ?.. As an example, one of the Museum chebeck rigging may be will give answers for some of the questions? And as I know there is monograf ,in famous Ancre's books series devoted to the building of the galley, of the Louis XIV fleet ... and there is a buillding log of the french galley as well which we could see a few days ago? Sometimes it looks like englishman did some of the rigging things in a different way / in details/ compare to their chanal neighbour?
  4. kirill4
    Looks as an very seriоus start!!! From the above shown liturature, I like very much H.A.Underhill He is brilliaht!!! I knew He has books devoted exactly for making model from begining, He has a few volumes... ...but strange . You didn't nention them?
  5. kirill4
    I've made couple of small flags...just wanted to try,how it works...:))) Found it does! :))) At least on cloth it works... now need to try to transfer it on tissue paper, didn't try yet...
  6. kirill4
    Do You mean You are planning to use special thermotransfer foto paper? Making flags in PC, print them on this paper and transfer by ironing to the cloth? I purchased such a few years ago, made small flags for boat... planned to use it again for making galleon flags...
  7. kirill4
    Hello, Michael, It looks in correct position...do You plan to fitt the same set of flags and banners as on the museum model?
  8. kirill4
    Recently I disvovered that imitation of coiled rope on belaying pins could be better to make from two parts, which gives more realistic vew...there we could use white wood clue for forming general coil and hair electro fan for fast drying...and drop of CA gel for forming final shape of the coil...detail You could see here Post #85 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/6262-spanish-galleon-1607-by-kirill4-finished-lee-plastic-1100/page/3/
  9. kirill4
    Sorry for my english, but I hope idea is clear in general... pls consider, that rigging treads need to be painted in advance , before start rigging...oil artistic paint and specific oil could be used, or acrylic paint ( which is much less advantage compare to oil paint and artistic oil)... When rigging treads treated in this way, they became as thin copper wire ,and very handy for manipulation when we need to imitate slack or strait rigging lines...
  10. kirill4
    Michael, to imitate "gravity" I used to give the line some "spare" length, or slack?.. from block to block,.than, when it pass trough the intermediate block, or even final block, I apply small drop of CA gel ( end of tooth pick) on the line just in front of block hole and tnan pull it slightly trough the block... as resalt line fixed in the block,and there is remains small q-ty of CA on the thread outside block... due to specific of the CA gel, it is drying slowly, We can use pincett and squize thread around and slightly down the block ,thus it gives visual effect of "gravity " weight of the line when it passes through the block without tension...
  11. kirill4
    I used to separate threads when fixing running rigging lines on the belaying points and imitation of coils above this points....which in reality are the same rigging lines :)))
  12. kirill4
    I meant , we are talking about plastic riggs and rigging plastic masts and yards :)))
  13. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Friends, Agree, very agree :))) with Michael and ERS Rich comments and remarks... My favorite way- try to use as much less tensions /or any loads to the rigging lines as possible! And wherenever possible Running riggings should don't have loading as all, and for standing rigging , loads need to be used as less as possible, we need to try to use natural straight of the lines / after painting,they became quite hard and straight , if it is not sufficient , we could use some very small weight , just keep lines in straight shape...... I like very mach CA gel , for almost all points where knots or lines need to be fixed between each other, or for imitation of coils ropes which lays on decks or on railings in "gravity " apearance when need to be shown them in such way... Very thin/ liquid CA I use when very thin lines(as crowfeets for example) need to be shown strait, and using some small weights... In this way( making crowfeets), first better to use unpainted threads, and try to create all ness-ry shapes of the lines...and than apply "CA very liquid "... when all dried,after Ca liquid, all this small ,thin lines could be painted in ness-ry colors...
  14. kirill4
    Good day Christian, Why need to fight against "blue " version of SR and even arrange group? It doesn't like "black and white" and nothing else more! And Why do You think this "blue-gold "combination for SR came from the Landström's illustrations? For Vasa model ,most probably - yes, it is but SR( and other SunKing vessels) colors is great different story! It doesn't depend on from Landstrem choice at all... Marc ,In one of his posts, shown us contemporary picture of SR exactly in blue and monochrome gold carving colors of the stern and hull.and more others.. and we need to consider other pictures of the period which clearly demonstarte using blue and monochrome gold coloring? And in the same time, There are many evidences that Red + monochrom gold colors were also in use in parallel with blue+gold colors ... However , there is perfect Marc choice ,which in my opinion , is the 3rd way of SR coloring ! By my opinion, in style of Vasa latest colors, probably it could represents early barocco, when each carving elements were more intensive painted with wide range of colors ...? But early Marc gave already very solid and argumented explanations why he choose this style for his SR model...
  15. kirill4
    OH, Sorry very much, it is too late for my comments , I didn't catch date when this post of completed building was made, sorry ! YOUR Model is very Good !!!
  16. kirill4
    Could You stained it accordingly to the normal colors and bring it alltogether to the same artistic level as entire model is?
  17. kirill4
    Good day Patrick , Very impressive work!!! I Like it very much, how Your model looks like !!! But what happened to rigging? What happened to riging colors?.. in this colors , it looks like as it was taken from other model... hull and spars stained , but why rigging left white??? ... in my opinion it is very strange choice and discard all image of that briliant made model!
  18. kirill4
    Using "Fake" gold leafe,сalled "potal" You will have exelent gilding effect as well...much better than any gold paint could make...special glue for potal will be find in the same place , together with purchasing potal... Sure real 24 carat gold leafe ,is the next,high level!!! :))) But visually , they looks very similar ,?identical?... potal ,to avoid oxiditation in future ,could be covered by gloss acrylic laquer... When/ where nessasary, glue could be applied by artist brushes,fine or rough depend on relief detail, potal will be clued exactly to this area...thus even every thiny details will be gilded...excessive,not clued potal easily could be removed/ swipped off by brushI used short ,cutted/trimmed manualy "hard " artist brush for final smooth potal after applying to the clued area...
  19. kirill4
    For GrandpaPhil Here, find galeasse in vol2 Souvenir de marine Souvenir de Marine. vol. 1.zip Souvenir de Marine. vol. 2.zip Souvenir de Marine. vol. 3.zip
  20. kirill4
    Good day, GrandpaPhil, This is from album,if I ' m not mistaken...or book...?
  21. kirill4
    Michael, Thank You very mach for explanation which exactly paints were used for getting such effect! Will save this technique for future use! Thank You!
  22. kirill4
    YESSS!!! :))) Michael 's Victory looks really good! I didn't think till today that it could be converted in her early version! Great!!! "Wood" color is very good !!! What was used for suchveffect? ALL THE BEST!!! Kirill
  23. kirill4
    Yes, My Congratulations as well!!!
  24. kirill4
    OH! Gold! -that is impressive !
  25. kirill4
    Most probably ,it is " gold" leaf :)))(potal,which is quite cheap ,but gives exelent gilding effect ! ) real gold leaf maybe is a little bit too much for plastic model :))) but I don't know for sure , what Michael used ! :))) may be - Gold!!! :)))

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