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kirill4

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  1. kirill4
    A few days ago, when I looked through the books that I mentioned in my post, I caught thinking myself why these pins were not shown on the models of ships of the 17th century ... After all, it is so convenient for fastening the running ends of running rigging ... But the fact remains ... All kinds of ways to lay the running ends - kevels, staghorns, pillars, laying up on themselves, seldom on pins.fitted trough railings, etc., but not just a most convenient option with pin rails ... Different situation on models of the 18th century - which could be found in 2 volumes J.Budriot "museum models of historical ships", pinrails already shown ,not as regular as on the ships close to the middle and so on of 18th, but shown... But why not in the 17th century, at least not shown on the models of this period,this remains a mystery to me ... all said above - just my personsl thouts abt subject, nothing more...:)))
  2. kirill4
    Good day, John, Some of my thoughts of rigging question, it is doubtful that the 17th-century ships were equipped with pin rails ... rather, it can be seen that single pins installed on the rails were used, such as Heller showed in the kit, but mostly the running gear was wound up or on the tops of the timbers or directly on the railings or bits... I judge by the photo of the Admiralty models of the ships presented in the books Brian Lavery " The Ship of the Line- History in Ship models" and "17th and 18th Century Ship models from the Kriegstein collection" ,none of these models are equiped with pinrails... ? They are original models ,not new built imitations...
  3. kirill4
    Good day Michael, Good job! Looks great! All the best!
  4. kirill4
    Good day Michael, There is link, Ab Hoving drawings ( free downloaded from texas university site,if I m not mistaken)and some other info about Dutch shipbuilding traditions https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Gt4G/kt1TuyVop
  5. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Peter, Incredible model. My Congratulations!!! :)))
  6. kirill4
    Good day, I think, if simplified version will be choozen, than we could make it final runs trough lead blocks on mizzen fwrd shroud and strait down to belying points near mizzen shroud... same as on Sophia Amalia model, Kalmar Nykel replica or how it shown in rigging plan of Vitsen pinnas made by Ab Hoving( that which is in pdf ,big in size and very detailed!)...I think You have all these sources? Or if we would like to make it more odd,elaborated ,fancy rigging, than we could make it as You said in the beginning...run it to the mizzen than to the main aft shroud back to mizzen and secured somewhere in this location... both versions would be interesting... All the best! Kirill
  7. kirill4
    Brilliant! And just spent abt one year?! I would like to admit, Fantastic speed You made in this building!:))) Great!
  8. kirill4
    Dear John, this is perhaps the best work done and assumptions according to the color scheme and materials for decor SR. I just enjoyed reading the information provided! Thank you very much! I will watch your construction site with great interest! All the best! Kirill
  9. kirill4
    Good day Michael, FANTASTIC rigging in this scale !!! Love it very much !!! Brilliant work !!! All the best! Kirill ps Did You abandon idea to furl upper sails in shape with vertical central part and upwarded clews?
  10. kirill4
    Good day Michael, Your rigging works Looks Great! And congrats on the addition to your family! Dog is nice! All the best ! Kirill!
  11. kirill4
  12. kirill4
    Probably it could be Something like this...variations...:)???
  13. kirill4
    Good afternoon Frank, Honestly, I don’t know whether the method of lashing the boats depends on where it is in storage ... It seems to me that reliability should play a decisive role here. The method of fastening what is now shown on the model can often be observed on the models of novice models(I don't know why they prefered to shoe it in this way), but you can’t find this method on professional models or models from museum collections, and I suspect on the real ships as well, most likely because it is impossible to reliably fix the boat or some other long items on the deck of the vessel, since such way of lashing cannot be tightly and securely fixed ... I propose to pay attention to such an option that it seems to me to look more real on the ship ... please consider all said above just as my personal point of vew Again, all what has been said is just my thoughts and not to change something ... By the way, in the photo of the Galler models that I have a method of attaching similar to yours ... But I still doubt it is shown correctly ...
  14. kirill4
    Good day Frank, Fully agree with all pozitive comments above! Outstanding work! Very well done! Ps I have very big "personal " doubts that the boat lashing is shown correctly ... there are few options for the correct boat fastening on deck , and they are well known ... for a model of this level of execution, it might make sense to show this element more correctly? All the best! Kirill
  15. kirill4
    Good day Bruma, As Rob said "...tapered the short sail so that there was no bunching or squaring at the yard end..." As seems to me, this is value comment , trick which will gives them more realistic appearance?
  16. kirill4
    Good afternoon Bruma, in my opinion it looks just great, even in this form, as the sail is shown in the photo. For the sake of objectivity, maybe it makes sense to post a photo with a real sail laid in the same way as on the model ... then it will be possible to say how similar it is to the real one? Although I repeat, I liked this current option too ... in general, I watch your construction site with great pleasure ... it turns out very cool !!! All the best! Kirill
  17. kirill4
    Fully agree! Just Great !!!
  18. kirill4
    Good day, Michael, Looks amaizing! Great done! All the Best! Kirill
  19. kirill4
    Good day, I agree with GrandpaPhil - fully raised and set.
  20. kirill4
    Good day Marc, As usual for me , I watch every your post with great interest! After that rest of my day became realy nice !!! Have question, if only we didn't tell about it in the past...sorry than, Did You ever try semi" gold "potal"... ? That quite cheap stuff which usually could find in every store busy with decoration craftmenship goods.. If not , I would like to recomment to try to use it very much, instead of gold paints ...by my opinion, when it correct used, there is no "gold" paints existing which could substitude it in making real golden effect... it is very simple staff in aplication, maybe even more easy than real gold paint to use.. but gilding effect of potal , Oh! which it makes...it is sometging!!!...:))) if You didn't, just try to use it... if You will like it, than You can easily to recover all places in Your decors where "gold" need to be plated... :))) Wish You and your family all the best! Kirill
  21. kirill4
  22. kirill4
    folkarts are excellent paints, but this is not quite what you need for dyeing threads ... I really used acrylic artistic paints mixed with varnish on my model ... but in the end I came to the conclusion that it is better than dyeing threads or finished ropes in a mixture of artistic there are no oil paints and oil in white spirit solution... acrylic does not hold well on threads... I pulled it through the block several times and the paint starts to crumble, peel off, and then tint again - that is still a thankless task... I plan to use it on my next model only the aforementioned mixture of artistic oil paints, oil and white spirit ... this composition was looked after by the great master Dmitry Shevelev -https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=71037&p=386214&hilit=умбра+ленинградская#p386214 https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=65 for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging. On running, ocher is added to this paint. It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint. Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry. Can be used in a day.
  23. kirill4
    if you paint the threads well before installation - use artistic oil paints diluted in teak oil, for example ... let them dry well under load, then they become like a soft wire and hold the desired shape well - and straight lines and imitation of sagging under gravity .. .if unpainted threads are installed, they behave unpredictably ... they spring, bend in the wrong direction and create other difficulties .... part of the thread passing through the block can be carefully lubricated with a microdroplet of CAgel and pulled and pressed down, thus creating an imitation of bending pulley block with a cable under the influence of force on the caeate or gravity ...
  24. kirill4
    Although there are images where the aft flagpole seems to be installed both aft in the diametral plane and in the presence of a bonaventure ... but on the Elizabeth Jonas model, for example, it is shifted to the port side
  25. kirill4
    Although there are images where the aft flagpole seems to be installed both aft in the diametral plane and in the presence of a bonaventure ... but on the Elizabeth Jonas model, for example, it is shifted to the port side

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