kirill4
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Another observation, means suitable for 1:100 and smaller scales ship models, which could be usefull for making accurate and not looks " bulk " as often happens, " round and throat seizings " to use one strand taken from thiniest thread You have, or even better to use special very thin , like a kind of mono threads, made by Gutermann ,seria Skala... than bigger N , than thiniest thread...
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Regarding printed bloks of any sizes and shapes, less than 2 mm and still perfect in shape,I would say,they are same or , even better in this respect than wooden cnc blocks from "His Models" or other cnc wooden blocks supplier - I mean" spares" for plastic models, not fo r wooden ships models ... present days I saw many our collegues offer this service... I saw "dafi" making wide range of such staff including rigging details and gun barrels and so on, on SOS I saw a few offers of printed items for scale models as well... in Russia they also available, but due to nowadays iron curtained,it is not an option anymore :(... but I think You much better know than me about all aspects of resin duplicatings and printings and where to find them ...I mentioned it just in case, and based on my small experience ... what would be better, but again, this is just my private opinion...
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Good day John, Yes, it were just my remarks after vewing posted photo.. and mostly because I did same " mistakes" when I was busy with my model, after all I have 1/3 part of rigging made from unprocessed sewing threads, 1/3 were corrected when I purchased very simple but workable rope making maschine and the rest of ropes I made in simulation mode :))) like this: cable from sewing thread how to use athread strait from a spool, without making cable - in the photo there is a thread before and after "processing" it turns out, of course, not what can be done with a cable making device, but differently better than it was on the spool, unprocessed ... * cut off about a meter * I clamp one end in a vise * I pull it slightly, just so that it does not sag and holding the other end I begin to twist it in my hands along the lay ... I twist it as tightly as possible ... at least until the density of the strand looks like a normal rope * then I pull it slowly/tightly until the "reserve" is selected, so to speak by lengthening ... it is felt, the thread first stretches and then begins to resist, and if you pull further, you can break it ... * in this maximally elongated state, I hold it for several seconds and paint it right away continue keeping it tight- I stretch along a cloth moistened with paint * I slowly release it and hang it up to dry ... as it dries, you can repeat the procedure again for fidelity ... well, something like this
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Your Bounty , She is nice ! Very nice and accurate model in all details! For me pesonaly, I like how ship model looks with full sails on... in my opinion , sails don't hide too much on deck.. at least yards could be trimmed on side a little bit on more sharp angle. What do You think, on this current built model, if only lower sails to make furled... all others, top and top gallant - undone?...
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Good day John, Nice job! I liked tgat bronze color which You mixed - looks quite real! Some observations, *on the photo, breech ropes looks too loose in their structure... like an ordinary, unprocessed threads , or it is ? Do You make your own ropes or purchase them or just using ordinary thread?... the last one doesn't look nice on the model. If there is oportunities to replace them for scale ropes it would be nice, or if not, there is some trick how to make ordinary sewing thread looks more tight, more suitable for the model rigging without using rope- making machine... *gun's recoil blocks looks too large/ on the photo ... may be 1.5 mm would be better? As I know, these days any size of blocks could be printed on demands ... * upper part of gardel block knight looks wrong in shape/has too sharp edges, there could be difficulties in main yard rigging later on... All the best! Kirill
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Good day Keith, You are welcome, Did they , those museum models and pictures, help You to find sails position of your model? Which of sails combination did You choose?
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I've checked... it was not I expected to see.... :)))) I would prefer to rigg my parrals in "Dutch style" , at least as Ab Hoving shown... with tackles and other details... as it seems to me more interesting :)))
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Good day, I think yes ,they do... But better to check what J.Budriot says in his (см. рис. 297 V.74 т. III), V.74 volume 3 drwng 297... in Ab Hoving, he shown parrals moveable, with tackles... but J.Budriot looks like describe them as fixed parrals, which couldn't be undone...as Ab Hoving shows them...
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Good day Keith, It looks most of the time, only main sail shown furled... all others not...it will give to see all deck details Could check here, on models and pictures https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/1845326--kirill-shabanov/collections?ii=0
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By the way, Ab Hoving in his works of 17th Dutch shipbuilding( ships of Abel Tasman if Im not mistaken) , in drawings of pinnas and fluete , gives very simple but looks very representative on the model, samples of parral arrangements...
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Good day, I would like to say , it is quite a big scale to try to make them functional, at least need to make good imitation of them... yard could be attached to the mast by means of metal wire pin, for making manipulation with parrel more convenient... for small beads try to find japanese bisser, it has 2 times smaller beads compare to ordinary bisser beads... Like here forcexample https://kraftika.shop/en/what-is-toho-japanese-seed-beads-size-shape-and-color-chart/ When parral assembled, it could be attached to the mast with piece of transparent double scotch...it will be unvisiable , but holds parrel on mast while you will be busy with parral tackles rigging... to make all pareal ropes of necessary lenght, better to use separate pattern/ imitation of mast and yard...
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Sounds as a good plan! Would You like to Try artificial gold potal ? it is not expensive staff ... еasy for application and could be found in any artistic shop... but it will make much more intersting effect than any other metallic paint... Considering that this lantern is a WIP and will be the only gilded element, then plated with golden potal, it will be mysteriously and warm flicker as a jewel on the aged wood in the light of the fireplace or candle.. this effect couldn t be reached with any other metallic paint... When applied, it could be covered by gloss acrylic varnish and stained/ softened in gold shining by apllying light deluted bitumen...
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Good day, Michael, This version looks much better , but in my opinion, what do You think... due to this part the only one of such "bright metall" element in entire model , would it wokr like an excessive" concentrator" of attention? I mean , it could disturb visual balance of the model if I could say that... is there a plan to add some "gilding " to some another decorative elements fitted on the hull? All the Best! Kirill
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Sometimes different parts of the transparent plastic pensil could be used as well... they have cone parts and parts with flat sides...
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John, What You are doing with shrouds in this way? I saw set of them already waisted as "wrong way done" in the right corner of your table?... #To sett shrouds on mast top in pair, #than making temporary carton patern with upper deadeye temporary fixed on it , #to secure shrouds to upper deadeyes, #and finaly making lanyards and to make ratlines with normal knots ... it could be easiest way for this job... I hope... it would be ... at least in my case,it was I just pay attention, when noted your experiments with making shrouds without masts...It looks like You are busy to find solution how to manage it? In my mind , it is too complicated way You choosen for it... later on it could be difficult to fit them on the mast top ,one loop to port> next one to starboard secuence, when all be assembled alone on the bench,but not on the mast? Could You tell a little , what is your idea , how You are making shrouds, and how You are going to fit them on mast ? All the best! Kirill
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And mine ... ... this is very interesting, all this landscape above table working area...looks like giant railway staion? Could You drop picture from above? Pls
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Hi Michael, This connection,on this photo, it is exactly what I meant ,it looks very natural!!! Great! All the Best! Kirill
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Good day Michael, Lantern in this version , as shown on the photo, is it final shape? ... it looks a litgle bit rough and falling apart from the entire model detailed style,especially your fantastic rigging... may be there is sence to add more details - to make it looks smthng as it shown in the book abt Prince William model... ? Don't You like Biorn Landstrem Vasa's lantern reconstruction in Dutch style, as it represented on p.106-107 in his book...? Glasses looks like to be assembled in diamond shapes piedes, and looks flat in shape... there should be imitstion of vent openings on the upper parts, more decor relement could be added( imitation) ...? All that could be made from that sculpey modeling clay?... some waist packing net( i saw it used for garlic packing in supermarket or antimoscito net, etc.) could be using for diamond shape glass imitation ? And braces rigging...doubt that brace block and pendant connected directly as You shown in this time, there should be block strope and pendant knob connection... if Im not mistaken...? There is also good sraff for making small reliefs on surface - that countur marker, could be found in artistic shops, very handy for imitation purpose of small carvings or smthng else , they could be found in different metallic and other volors as well...
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Thanks Marc, Yes! I see them now, It is there...hm, never noted such elements till the momemnt You mentioned it !!! :))) Great! Some things act like hidden from vew, even they are clear represented... same as I never saw ,till certain moment, spare wood for rigs ,stored outside hull on Dutch vessels, behind lower shrouds deadeyes or chainplates ,but they always been there!!! And they were not small elements I would like to say!:)
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Good day Marc, Each time I watching Your building report ,it makes me feel good!!! :))) Anderson RC - almost 97.8% what we need when be busy with rigging our 17th model... than may be that book of 17th and 18th Century Ship Models from the Kriegstein Collection Second Revised and Expanded Edition will be interesting, there is a model restored by Anderson RC,so You can compare information in his book ank how he managed rigging of the model... and if we considering interesting version of D7tch influence on French shipbuilding, there could interesting to study rigging plans of Vitsen pinnas by Ab Hoving...I already left link to that drawings , they are in superb quality! In previous posts in Ott's SR building report,or You could down load them free by yourself from ... from... texas university site,if Im not mistaken...or ,for sure, ask Ab Hoving where it could be downloaded...? I have them downloaded but didn't remember link anymore... Markvardt book is very nice, but it is overloaded with information, need to be very carefull in selection what You realy need for Your model... and it has couple of nice 17th belaying plans on the last pages...I like much more Anderson's book... use it together with Van de Velde drawings and photoes of admiralty models in high resolution will give You almost all necessary info about rigging You need... and of couse in priority books of J.Budriot of the subject, especialy I would like to mention his book The Chevalier de Tourville's THREE-DECKER SHIP 1680. There are nice step by step rigging plans of how to rigg 3 decker, including running rigging and sails rigging ... Anderson, J.Budriot and Ab Hoving's plans - by my opinion, will cover all we need for rigging SR model
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In this respect, I like very much clipper ships belaying arrangements - all clear logical and nice looking! :)))
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Good day Marc, I agree, there couldn't be too wrong with it... just strange , why they couldnt be seen ... were they just ommited as some kind of simplification, same as gun cartriges never shown on admiralty models in full construction shape as on modern models, or were not shown because they were not in common use it that period...? A few famous big scale models of of 17- begining of18 th ,as examples, where we could see in details how running riging were secured with belaying pins ( railings only)without pinrails yet - dutch William Rex model and french Louis Quinz...or even more modern Royal Louis - there used small cleats on shrouds, kevels,top timbers... but couldn't see pinrails as well... strange
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