clearway
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Back with the masts and fashioned the jib boom from a piece of square stock, i first marked off the part i wanted to stay square at the heel then marked a square to match the diameter at the for end, and sanded the taper in with coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of 2" x1" off cut. After i got the four sided tapers worked in i sanded them octagonal,then marked in the end that would stay eight sided and rounded off the rest and finished with fine grade sandpaper. Next i will have to drill and carve out the sheaves and the groove at the end for the fore topgallant stay, and start on the bees battens/blocks on the bowsprit. Take care all Keith
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Lol Keith- to be honest if that happened the admiral would be shouting "take the rest too!"😁. Keith
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😁 niceeeeeee and no problem old engineers adage "if in doubt -ask". Keith
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Thanks for likes, looking in and comments everyone. After Keith s provided more fine details of the anchor chain guard on the forward bitts i finally added them. First squeezed a flat on the end of some brass rod with pliers and drilled a 0.68 mm drill, after drilling hole in the posts to take them i blackened them, added the rope lanyards then glued in position. The eyes on deck are made from annealed iron wire which is already blackened. After glue had cured tied off the lanyards to the eyes on deck. Another project over the weekend involved the table for the Azimuth compass, never really happy with the chunky legs and being too high i made some new ones from walnut. take care all. Keith
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Hi Daniel, i made my bowsprit approx. 120mm long outside of the bulwarks (i think it does mention this in the book) where as occre are giving you the entire length. As regards jib boom depends how accurate you want to go really, my advise is check out the full size practice and alter to suit your needs (but not too much)! remember Terror was built around 1813 so any mast fittings (mast caps, tops etc) will be from that time period, though it looks like her rig was updated to the 1850 period as matthew Betts states she had her rig altered. Hope that all made sense😉 Keith
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Yes Keith make the lubbers hole longer so the rear cross tree is far enough back to let the ropes through the hole abaft the fore mast like on my main top (hindsight tis a wonderful thing i should know better by now)! Love the turtles on a log analogy😁. Keep up the good work, Keith
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feel free Keith- in hindsight though i would add about 3mm to the fore top at the rear of the mast to allow room for the topmast stays to pass through and run down to the deck (i had to drill file a hole in the chock on the mast to allow this)! Thinking more on the boats and looking at the plans in the books i had which are smaller copies of yours, it looks like some were stored on the decks just forward of the deckhouses- it must have been a bit crowded on deck to say the least! Keith
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Nice work matey, i was just considering making them out of a piece of black L shaped iron wire but like the look of them😁 Keith
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Thanks for the comments geowolf and thanks for the heads up the other Keith, i am actually keeping an open mind about the rear 8 davits and still contemplating as to just leave the 4 for the skid beams or add all of them (i prefer the uncluttered look)! Though with actually making all the posts fit in place i have the option to still add them in place if needed, The enigma continues! Keith
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Back with the davit arms and have made the brackets that attach the arms to the hull (only glued in place till i drill and pin them later), Thanks to Keith s we know the arms were removed when not in use so they will be stored with the spare spars etc in the waist. The brackets were made out of nickel silver strip and painted black. Take care all Keith
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Been bashing my head working this davit business out myself Keith!! I am basing the davits on the midship section plans as the ones for the skid beams so for the after eight sets of davits will put brackets on the outsides for the arms- as regards the midship davits i am seriously tempted to wait till Matthews book comes out as they can be added later. I am only leaving the davit posts in place where the skids are as they would interfere with handling sails while using them and will store them in the stanchions in the waist. Keith
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nice work so far on the windlass😁- for the brackets on the fore side i used the L shaped off cut of ply you are left with in the middle of the tops after removing the parts for the accommodation hatches. other Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, before starting on the masting i realised i need to fit the "arms" for the davits (or at least the brackets for them). I still need to drill the holes for the hinge pin and add a block of wood to the end for a third sheeve and add eyebolts to the underside. On the mast front i added eyes for the blocks which will take the yard truss pendants. take care all Keith
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no problem, i left the instructions behind ages ago as they are soooooooooo wrong🤪. Keith
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Hi Broden , they are actually "skylights" to let light in below decks. The two marked just behind the forward hatch are actually elm tree pumps positions as opposed to skylights. Keith
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Coming along nicely Daniel- i am still thinking about whether the idea of the sled is right, but will most likely leave mine as is (also helps keep the ships boats bow above the forward accommodation hatch). I will have up to 5 boats for my Terror- 1 above the main ships launch, two on the skids and maybe one slung over the stern davits. Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, decided to fit preventer stays on main and fore topmasts so added to eyes and strops to fore masthead, also added thimbles to main mast for stay and topmast stay from mizzen mast (decided to stay with earlier method for mizzen stay as fastening directly to deck as in Lee's masting would have interfered with the hatch for the spare rudder etc in my humble). Also made a start at last on making replacement mast caps for the fore and main topmasts to replace the kit ply ones (still need sanded back to right size). Eyebolts have been added to the mast caps for main and fore yard lifts as well. take care all Keith
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Thanks for likes and comments and taking a look in everyone. All i can say is Futtocks! 😁. Following Lees book i have used chain for the foremost futtock shroud and rope for the rest (should be hooked to the deadeye plates on the top but seized them instead). I was in two minds as to use chain for all the shrouds but liked the difference in look. next i will have to decide whether to rig preventer stays for the main topmast or just single so i can fit thimble/ block in place for stays on fore masthead. Take care all Keith
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welcome back to the terror club Keith- not sure if you seen it but got back to your question regarding the tops on my log- been a couple of posts since i answered. Keith
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Work continues on fore and main masts with the battens fitted to the masthead and a piece of walnut for the sling cleats which will be carved to shape when glue dry. Also used the thinner brass rod in the kit to make strops for the futtock deadeyes (more in depth description on my strop making on my hms victory build log). next will need to paint them black along with hand rails and fit the chain necklaces around the masts for the futtock shrouds. take care all, Keith
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I agree Daniel anything better than instructions! the dashes around the mast area are eyebolts for taking hooks from rigging blocks. on later drawings there appear to be less. i settled for 6 (4 at base of mast 2 fore and 2 aft with a couple further forward under the posts for the winch drums / massey pump flywheels). Keith
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TY wahka- for future projects i have a few to choose from, but thinking occre's HMS Beagle (asides from finishing HMS Victory at some point)! Though i also have the trumpeter 1/200 titanic as well😉. Keith
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can't beat it when stuff like that happens😱. going to make you swear a little now..... the fife rail abaft the the mainmast should be on the forward side (initially made that mistake myself)🤪. Decks are starting to look nice and busy now😁. Keith
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Hi Keith and TY, the tops are made from scratch ,thin ply base with veneer strip for planking and ply curved front piece and kit decking strip around other three sides. The battens are around 1.5mm squared but then sanded thinner as in following pics. fore top is 55mm wide and 35mm at sides, curving to 40mm at front. Main top is 60mm wide x 40mm at the sides and 45mm at the front of the curve. take care everyone Keith
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Thanks for the likes and comments so far everyone. Back with the masts and fitted the battens to the main and fore tops using Lees's book (based them on the 1802 onwards style), and the handrails using some etched ones left over from victory build with brass rod from kit which needs ends files neater and painted black. take care all. Keith
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