clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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nice work with the main bitts- look far better with the curve😁. for my bands a just used some black card that was backing for a 1/35 turned aluminum gun barrell so can't say exactly but isn't much thicker than a sheet of paper. Keith -
Hi Daniel, i used some spare billings turned brass eyes left over from previous builds for my bearings (never throw anything away after a build)! The drums on the posts in front of the main and fore masts are warping drums especially for the jeers. In later days these evolved into dolly winches (see cutty sarks deck fittings). Keith
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yep keith, thats where that chain around the mast came from😉. Keith
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brrrrrrrrrrrr getting colder here !!! After much deliberation on how i was going to attach the mizzen topmast shrouds/ futtocks i decided on a single chain collar (will fit two chains per mast on fore and main as per Lee's book). take care all Keith
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or my capstan i used the spindle and base off the kit one and made new head from two pieces of wood with squares filed in then sandwiched together, and plasticard discs for the metal base and pawl bits.
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I used 8mm belaying pins for mine Daniel , glad to see the other keith clearing the decks and preparing for action😁. Keith
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nice touch (don't forget to leave a bit of it blank though😉) have you thought about replacing the occre belaying pins with brass ones though? Keith
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Thanks for looking in as always everyone, back in the shipyard and the mizzen mast is finished with the eyebolts for the topping lifts and peak halliard in place. Also fitted the fid on the topgallant mast. Thinking of the boom sheet i decided to go with an eyebolt on the transom and a cleat on the deck as in Lees book. Just realised i am now ready to fit the mizzen and start rigging the shrouds (i always start masting/ rigging with the mizzen and work forwards). take care all Keith
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the battens are on all three masts (not topmasts heads though) There are holes drilled into the ends for the shrouds to pass through from the topmast , and will attach them to a collar around the mizzen. Keith
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Happy New YearDaniel. The masts in Lees books show the set up on large man o wars don't bother with hoops or bands above the top, Oh and no top fitted on terror and erebus just the cross and trestle trees on the mizzen. The pic on top of page 10 on my log shows the mizzen complete bar the eyes for the blocks. Keith
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Happy New Year everyone, heres hoping its an improvement on the last one! It's not a Terror pic but thought it might help warm us up during the cold spell Take care all. Keith
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oooooo now that does make it look atmospheric😉. Keith
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you too and here is hoping normality returns😉
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James Lees "masting and rigging the english ship of war" is good, but getting harder / expensive to find (have sent a few guys on here to the abe's books website). Also try local second hand bookshops as there are loads of books aimed at modellers showing masting and rigging, Keith
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Welcome back Geo, and thankyou😉 another set of stern deck houses added to a terror (maybe occre will take the hint and update the kit)! If not too late you should remove the pin rail from in front of the mizzen mast and add a spider band around the mast. Keith
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the camera can be a cruel mistress! looking good though😀 Keith
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Rather than go exact with the ratios what i do is work out the doubling + length of the bibs , make the tops then square the mast so the top is a snug fit- then i work the taper in if that makes sense (a pic of finished squaring on my log), but yes the taper is noticable (look carefully at the pic of my finished masts) especially on the topmasts and t'gallants. Keith
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I based mine on the diameters of the masts went with a 10th class frigate though i did lengthen the height of the mizzen topmast a little to allow for the gaff topsail. When you look at the dimensions for the occre topmasts on the aforementioned frigate you will see the dimensions are the same more or less, so occre got something right! Keith
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nice work Daniel. will seem daunting at first but becomes clearer. It does help being sectionalised into different categories. Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, back in't shipyard and work continues on the gaff and driver boom. The jaws have been glued on and carved to shape (started as a rectangle glued each side). Also glued the battens onto the mizzen masthead for the shrouds and stitched the hem on the spanker sail. Will have to glue eyes in place for the topping lift and throat halliard blocks on the mizzen mast. take care everyone. Keith
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back at you Emmet and oh yeah! Keith
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belated merry christmas broden, i used self adhesive copper strip to replace the aluminium. the instructions look slightly different because the two shots are taken from slightly different angles. If using the aluminium sheets just polish them with very fine sandpaper/ emery cloth before gluing/ painting as the metal develops a film which stops paint and glue adhering properly. Keith
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merry christmas everyone, it makes you wonder what the christmas must have been like for the crews of erebus and terror when looking at the model. Keith
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Hi Keith, usually a sheet and two boomguys rigged. I think the houses had rounded roofs to shed any water shipping over the stern (ye olde being "pooped"). Another idea which i have seen is a block on an eyebolt on the taffrail with a cleat on the inner transom for belaying to. To be honest any of these ideas could be applied after the rest of the masts and rigging are in place so could wait til Matthews book avails the solution. Keith
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back in the shipyard and sanded the driver boom and gaff to shape, next job will be to fit the jaws and maybe trim a little more off the thickness. have included a photo of the completed mizzen mast (the top mast will be held in place with a fid and won't be glued in place). Will have to think about how to secure the boom sheets, thinking a short horse on top of the box like structure above the rudder head, or maybe just a block on an eyebolt? Take care all Keith
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