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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. Doing good ty Emmet and a happy easter to you too. Still working, though partial furlough still in place, but we are getting busier. Still on my Terror build at the mo with rigging underway. Keith
  2. you can always add packing pieces to fill/ alter any gaps- i always add the deck pieces after gluing the frames to make sure they stay lined up- it's a learning curve.
  3. Interesting prototype- billings do make a decent kit which lend themselves to adding extra detail easier than some makers kits. Enjoy the build. Keith
  4. Thanks for looking in as always. Work continues on the shrouds with the main top mast shrouds now rigged, next i will rig the topmast stays (need to rig a temp. forestay first). Also rigged the hearts on the main stay and preventer stay. The strops on the deadeye plates will be for the topgallant shrouds to be lashed to. Take care all Keith
  5. thanks for looking in everyone, still ongoing with the main shrouds (seems like a lifetime)! but also rigged the mizzen stay and topmast stay. Also started on the main stay/ preventer stay though not fully rigged yet. as an aside BBC 2 in the u.k. have started showing the Terror T.V. series so finally able to watch it😁. Take care all Keith
  6. Thanks Daniel (and yes it is Vicky in the background). The spare spars were located in the waist of the ship between the fore and main masts- you will see some black L shaped brackets on my decks in some of the pics. It looks like barrels stored at the after end, but it does look a bit fuzzy in places. No problems with using any of our ideas as this is what the forum is for and it's thanks to the other Keith (keith s) i managed to clear up some grey areas of my own. Keith
  7. looking good Daniel, at this scale i tend to simplify it a bit and just settle for a few half hitches. I recommend sorting out the brackets forn the davit posts before finally gluing masts in place and rigging lower shrouds though (depends how you want to do the posts and skid beams though really). Keith
  8. Ty for the likes and comments and looking in everyone. The mizzen stay is now in place and will be tied in place with the thimble and the eye on the starboard side of the mast on deck before main shrouds are rigged. Also attached the blocks on the fore and main trees on the topmasts for the topsail yard before gluing the masts in place, the mizzen topmast shrouds are also now rigged, I have also rigged a makeshift stay on the mainmast so it doesn't get pulled out of line when shrouds and mizzen topmast stay are rigged. Take care all Keith
  9. get well soon , can be very good therapy model building (most of the time)!😉 Keith
  10. Changing the ships wheels to finer scale 10 spoke makes a big difference to the look, I used brass kits from caldercraft which was interesting making them look like varnished wood, the other Keith used the wooden type which will be easier to varnish/ stain. Keith
  11. Carrying on with the mizzen shrouds and the deadeyes are now rigged (knots wont be glued and trimmed incase i need to adjust them for now). Also fitted the hearts in the bows to take the main stay and preventer stay. Also need to fit the chain necklaces on the main and fore top masts for the topgallant shrouds before gluing the main/ fore masts in place. Take care all. Keith
  12. Ty for looking in. likes and comments everyone. Arild there is explained the difference between male and female thinking🤣. Back with the shrouds and seized the deadeyes in place using one of my home made deadeye spacers (i have seen a lot of people asking about this on MSW so hope this points them in right direction). take care all Keith
  13. Thanks for looking in everyone, moving back to the stern area and finally glued the mizzen mast in place and started on the shrouds. Starting with the starboard pair and then the port side pair till six shrouds per side. The two eyes on the mast cap will take the blocks to guide the main topyard braces down to the deck. take care all Keith
  14. Thanks for looking in, staying with the bowsprit and jib boom and had a rethink, I had left the heel of the jib boom square as post 1815 practice but because Terror was built in 1813 i settled with the octagonal heel from that time. As regards the bowsprit i fitted the bees battens and blocks for the fore topmast stays. At the fore end of the jib boom i realised as no flying jib boom is fitted it should be round and not 8 sided. Take care all Keith
  15. Yep you are right there about the size! I am still in two minds as to include these or not, however i suspect there should be a lid to seal the opening when guns not in use? Keith
  16. Back with the masts and fashioned the jib boom from a piece of square stock, i first marked off the part i wanted to stay square at the heel then marked a square to match the diameter at the for end, and sanded the taper in with coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of 2" x1" off cut. After i got the four sided tapers worked in i sanded them octagonal,then marked in the end that would stay eight sided and rounded off the rest and finished with fine grade sandpaper. Next i will have to drill and carve out the sheaves and the groove at the end for the fore topgallant stay, and start on the bees battens/blocks on the bowsprit. Take care all Keith
  17. Lol Keith- to be honest if that happened the admiral would be shouting "take the rest too!"😁. Keith
  18. 😁 niceeeeeee and no problem old engineers adage "if in doubt -ask". Keith
  19. Thanks for likes, looking in and comments everyone. After Keith s provided more fine details of the anchor chain guard on the forward bitts i finally added them. First squeezed a flat on the end of some brass rod with pliers and drilled a 0.68 mm drill, after drilling hole in the posts to take them i blackened them, added the rope lanyards then glued in position. The eyes on deck are made from annealed iron wire which is already blackened. After glue had cured tied off the lanyards to the eyes on deck. Another project over the weekend involved the table for the Azimuth compass, never really happy with the chunky legs and being too high i made some new ones from walnut. take care all. Keith
  20. Hi Daniel, i made my bowsprit approx. 120mm long outside of the bulwarks (i think it does mention this in the book) where as occre are giving you the entire length. As regards jib boom depends how accurate you want to go really, my advise is check out the full size practice and alter to suit your needs (but not too much)! remember Terror was built around 1813 so any mast fittings (mast caps, tops etc) will be from that time period, though it looks like her rig was updated to the 1850 period as matthew Betts states she had her rig altered. Hope that all made sense😉 Keith
  21. Yes Keith make the lubbers hole longer so the rear cross tree is far enough back to let the ropes through the hole abaft the fore mast like on my main top (hindsight tis a wonderful thing i should know better by now)! Love the turtles on a log analogy😁. Keep up the good work, Keith
  22. feel free Keith- in hindsight though i would add about 3mm to the fore top at the rear of the mast to allow room for the topmast stays to pass through and run down to the deck (i had to drill file a hole in the chock on the mast to allow this)! Thinking more on the boats and looking at the plans in the books i had which are smaller copies of yours, it looks like some were stored on the decks just forward of the deckhouses- it must have been a bit crowded on deck to say the least! Keith
  23. Nice work matey, i was just considering making them out of a piece of black L shaped iron wire but like the look of them😁 Keith
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