RichardG

Work continues with the fabrication of the lower rail.  Compared to the main rail, this is duck soup.  Only one size of profile cutter is necessary.  The shape is determined by the same expansion drawing that was done with the main rail.  In the pictures you can see pin holes for securing it in place.  The head beam and cross piece were removed to facilitate fitting.
 

 

 

 

 
The first photo shows the mortices marked on the various structures.  I started with the fan-shaped grating behind the head beam.  As Atalanta had four seats of ease, only six ledges were required.  If there were only two seats of ease, then eight ledges were installed.  Each piece was marked since they would be stored away until the entire head was completed (or for photos).  This provides, along with the pins, a lot of structural stability for the head assembly.  At this point, the rest of the ledges and the small carlings for the seats of ease were constructed.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The false rail is a decorative board located on top of the main rail.  It screens the aft seats of ease, so it must have been the preferred location for doing one's duty.  The pictures show it set on top of the mail rail but it has not been finish sanded at this point.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 220 – Martingale
 
The Martingale, or dolphin striker, was a 17' long, 10" diameter spar that served as a compression member in the truss that included the bowsprit and its stays that attached to points on the hull.  The stiffness provided by this assembly was critical to the support of the foremast from which various stays descended to anchor points or sheaves on the bowsprit.  The "second trim" of the martingale is shown in the first picture on its drawing.
 
 
 
The spar at this stage is a tapered square and not yet cut to length.  Above the center is a slot that will receive a single plate that will be formed into the double iron cleats on either side.  This slot was milled after overall sizing but before any tapering, for reasons described earlier.  The next picture shows trimming the spar to an octagonal shape.
 

 
On this relatively small diameter spar, this trim was done by eye, without scribing guide lines.  The next picture shows the rounded spar with reinforcing bands fitted over the ends.
 

 
These bands were made from copper tube, saving the fitting and soldering used on larger bands.  To fit the diameters on the spar, rings cut from the tube were enlarged as needed using a center-punch as a mandrel as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The rings are sized for a tight, immovable fit on the spar.  The next picture shows a brass plate inserted through the slot in the spar for fitting and so that the outline of the spar could be scribed on the plate.
 

 
The shapes of the cleats were then cut outside of the scribed lines with a jeweler's saw.  The next picture shows an early fit check.
 

 
The next picture shows the finished, blackened plate ready for final fitting into the spar.
 

 
The plate was glued into the spar with CA.  The next picture shows the finished spar except for its top hook.
 
 
 
The larger ring at the bottom was drilled at this stage to accept four eyebolts that will secure two forward stays that anchor on the outer bowsprit and two backstays that anchor on the hull.  These stays, like most standing rigging on the bowsprit, are chain of different sizes.  The last picture shows the martingale hooked to is eyebolt behind the cap.
 

 
The picture also shows iron (copper) banding for the gammoning being fitted over the lower bowsprit and under the figure boards.  A length of chain is shown secured to the forward end of the jibboom during tests of different connection methods.  This is not the final chain.  More on the chain rigging later.
 
 
Ed

Thank you for these comments and the many likes - and I always like questions - even if I may lack the answers.
 
Pat, the file is a 0 cut Grobet full-size barrette file.  I also used a fine cut similar version on the spar.  Here is a link to the first:
 
https://contenti.com/jewelers-metal-files/full-size-metal-files/grobet-barrette-files
 
Thank you very much, Frank.  I wish some of this were as routine as it may appear in the posts.  The spar shown above was the third attempt.  The first was slightly small - causing me to start anew with the slight excess measured above then remove it in the last sanding steps.  The second was "perfect" until I started cutting the sheave holes - hence the decision to do that work first on the square.  So, as I am sure you know, processes evolve slowly sometimes,  and I am learning like everyone else.  Few of us can can comfortably repeat processes well learned over many previous builds.  I am glad if others get some benefit from what I learn along the way.
 
Just for fun, here is proof of this particular learning experience:
 

 
Ed 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 218 – Jibboom/Flying Jibboom 2
 
In the last part the spar was reduced to the "third trim" – square in section but tapered to almost the final sizes along the length.  The next step is to convert the square into a regular hexagon with the reduced diameters along the length.
 
To mark the apices of the octagon on the four sides of the square I used the small device shown in the first picture.

 
This has two guide rods with a scriber set between them at precisely 7/24 of the guide spacing from one of the guides.  This corresponds to the location of the octagonal apex on the initial square.  The center of the scriber is set at that distance from the inside of the guide bar.   The hole spacing for these rods required some calculations and precise setup.  The next picture shows the tool in use scribing an apex line on the squared spar.
 

 
This method was used on the larger parts of the spar.  The spar is drawn over the scriber while keeping the sides in contact with the guides.  The scribed line will then be made along the octagonal apex regardless of the spar taper.  I have found the accuracy of this method to be quite adequate on sections a small as 1/8" diameter.  Since the scribed lines are on the apices, they will eventually be filed off during rounding.
 
In the next picture the initial shaping was done with the cabinet scraper and is being finished with the file as shown.
 

 
The scribed lines are an initial guide.  The final sizing along the spar is done by progressive checking with the calipers at the key points and visually making sure the width of the octagonal sides are equal.  In the next picture, a file is being used to shape the octagonal faces on the smaller part of the spar without scribed lines – using the calipers and visual inspection.
 
 
 
When the correctly sized octagonal shape is produced along the spar, it is ready for the final rounding.  If there are radial holes perpendicular to the new sides of the octagon, these should be bored  before proceeding with the final rounding.  This rounding is being done at the lower end of the spar with a fine file in the next picture.
 
  
 
This begins with filing off of the octagonal apices, then further rounding.  During the initial rounding the scribed pencil lines from earlier steps will remain visible as guides.  These will be removed as the spar is reduced to its final diameters in these last steps.
 
In the next picture the final-sized round shape is being sanded with a 200-grit sanding block using emove remaining corners and to obtain final dimensions.
 

 
I started this final shaping at the small end and completed each section before moving on – again with frequent diameter checks.  In the next picture a sanding stick is being used for final smoothing and shaping at the round-octagonal transition near the lower end.
 

 
The completely shaped spar is shown in the last picture.  Fine abrasive sticks were used to produce the final finish.  Also, the end of the spar has been shaped to hold the skysail stay at its very tip.
 

 
The spar is now ready for its iron bands and sheaves.
 
Ed
 
 
 

I get to a certain point in the construction of these ships when I'm not motivated to take pictures because it seems all the things added don't amount to a picture taking event. But then after a while, it's either grab a picture or two now, or else you'll be completely finished. And that's where I am now.
Still have to add the railings, some AA guns, searchlights, some rigging, flags, and a tad more weathering here and there.
Can you believe I got this far before I realized my kit didn't have the ship's aircraft, the Walrus? Don't know if it was missing from the packaging or if I lost it in the past. In any event, I ordered some Trumpeter Walrus and will add it after the set arrives.
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 217 – Jibboom/Flying Jibboom
 
Thanks, everyone, for the comments and likes on the last post.
 
Although the Jibboom and its integral Flying Jibboom may be added after the lower bowsprit is permanently in place, I believe it is preferable to complete the entire assembly before securing it in the hull, so the next step is to make that spar.
 
As spars go, this one is fairly complex.  It has two steps down in diameter and is mortised for four large sheaves.  One at the foot is horizontal and used to haul the spar out.  The other three take the inner, outer, and flying jib (fore topgallant) stays.  There is a dummy sheave for the fore royal stay and the end of the spar is shaped to secure the fore skysail stay.  The lower end of the spar is octagonal.
 
The process closely follows practice used to shape actual spars.  The first picture shows step one – sometimes called the "first trim."
 

 
The length of Castello shown has been squared to about 10-thousandths of an inch over the maximum cross-section of 17.5" (.236" at 1:72).  Measurement points along the spar have been marked on all four faces, actual dimensions calculated for the specified full size diameters, and centerlines drawn down each face.  This would be the normal starting point for shaping the spar.  However, before starting that process, I machined all the mortises and bored all the radial holes – sheave slots, axle holes, eyebolt holes, etc.  There are two reasons for this: First, securing and centering the piece for boring/milling is much easier and accurate before it has been tapered or rounded.  Also, drilling into a flat horizontal surface is easier and more accurate than drilling into a curved surface – especially if the cut is all the way through and you want the opposite location to be correct.  The next picture shows the first trim marked for the locations of the stay sheaves.
 

 
I used the mill for all this work.  First, the vise was indicated to align it.  Then, an edge finder was used to locate the stationary jaw of the vise accurately.  The vise was then moved so the edge of the jaw was on the spindle center, then adjusted back by half the measured, actual width of the piece to place the spindle precisely over the center of the spar.  The pencil lines on the spar thus become superfluous and the holes will be accurately centered.  In the next picture two sheave slots are being milled using a 1/32" milling bit.
 

 
This size bit is smaller than the smallest sheave slot.  Later, the through slots will be filed out to the required size.  This step centers them only, avoiding the need for y-direction adjustments, losing the accurate center, and the attendant necessary calculations.  Because of the shortness of the bit, milling from both sides was needed.  The next picture shows the forward end of the spar with the mortises and the other holes bored.
 

 
The first shaping step is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The jig is designed to hold rectangular work of varying width.  A cabinet scraper was used to rough-taper the upper and lower faces of the spar.  This process involves taking numerous measurements at the points along the spar, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The top and bottom faces are worked concurrently, allowing visual checking of the symmetry of the tapering vs. the marked center lines.  As the final diameters are approached, finer work was done with flat files as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this picture the outermost step has been filed before working the end of the spar.  Only the top and bottom faces are tapered at this stage, eventually reaching the "second trim" – two opposite faces tapered to (almost) final size.  Again, at this stage I left a total of about 10/1000ths of an inch excess at each point.  In the next picture the spar is being marked on the tapered faces to allow the two remaining parallel faces to be reduced symmetrically.
 

 
The remaining two faces are then reduced by the same process, yielding the "third trim" of the spar shown in the next picture.
 

 
This piece will next be converted to octagonal shapes consistent in size with the square profiles in the picture.  Next post.
 
Ed

Hi all
 
I would just like to say that I am touched by all of your words and well wishes.
 
Thank you,  Kurt, Richard, Mark, Malcolm, Edwin, Greg, Don, King David and Vince.
 
 
I am not giving up yet.
 
Denis.

I had a long break on my model (because other things took precedent) and I was beginning to feel guilty because I have said many times I will finish it.  Then I read others who are far more accomplished than I can ever dream to be had taken long sabbaticals on a model they started, some for many years.  But they always go back to finish.  You never fail until you stop trying.    

Have you ever sought out a solution but drew a blank all the while knowing the answer is right in front of you?  That's been my last 48 hours.  I knew I had a way to cut into the frames of the hull to allow for the modifications but drew a complete blank.  I get up at 7 this morning, walk into the workshop, look around and then the light bulb turns on.
 
If it's good enough for guitar inlays, it should be good enough for modeling.  The bit is 1/8" diameter.  I have bits that go to 1/32", if needed.

I was doing this by eye so I started out with light passes.

Rough work complete.

From here I used the edges of the plywood as a template to finish the routing.

Next is to cut out the seating in the crew cockpit.  I will have to add a brace at the bow end to support the deck and foot well of the cockpit, then rout that out.

Sorry to hear about the backward step. 
 
The two steps forward are really good though.
 
It's been nice to see you back and working on this.
 
Richard.

Here are a few more pics - these are when the ship is totally completed !

Deck planked

Been doing a lot of CAD work trying to find the key to the city.  This is one part 3D, one part one-line perspective of how the S130 setup might look.  Still a lot of work left to be done.

Dark blue lines are vertical in the cockpit and helmsman pit.  Green lines represent horizontal edges and breaks between deck finishes.  The brown box is a sub-pit for the 60" wheel.  There would be a raised wood wrap around both the helmsman pit and cockpit.
 
Believe it or not, the squares just before entering the companionway represent two more companionways that go down to the lower level.  Please don't ask me if I am going to recreate those stairs.  I've already committed the rest of my life to this.    
 
 

I'm not sure if any expensive tools are needed.
 
Here's a wonderful example of a detailed interior from Doris's Royal Caroline build https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/&do=findComment&comment=325142. (The whole build log is a treat).
 
Richard
 
 
 
 

Zoly,
 
I wish you hadnt posted that.  Shaking my head in disbelief.  Within five minutes of your post,  it was reported to the staff and I received a few PM's as well. 
 
you do know that book is copyright and the author is actually still alive and kicking.   Many of our members know him personally.  You should really buy that book to support him rather than download and steal PDF versions and also offer them to anyone who asks.  It is my understanding that you have quite a collection of bootlegged Anatomy of the ship books, and others ..... often sharing and exchanging them through this site digitally.
 
We cant allow such behavior at MSW.  It is a violation of our rules and unethical no matter how you slice it.  You have been a member for so long it baffles the mind how you could post that....still shaking my head in bewilderment.   
 
Chuck

I'm not sure if any expensive tools are needed.
 
Here's a wonderful example of a detailed interior from Doris's Royal Caroline build https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/&do=findComment&comment=325142. (The whole build log is a treat).
 
Richard
 
 
 
 

There are two ways that I know of to make the rabbet for the keel. One being a V-gouge and the other being a scraper. I have made some headway into learning how to use my chisels, but in the end I decided to play it safe and go with the scraper. The scraper was made from a hacksaw blade. After annealing, the shape was developed using a Dremel cut off wheel and some needle files.
 

 
Although these enlarged photos might suggest otherwise, the 2" deep rabbet has a knife edge at the top of the keel and onto the stem. I spent a long time doing the rabbet, with very gentle pulls for fear of slipping or gouging the wood.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mike
 

Welcome to my build log of The Hayling Hoy. This will be my first attempt at building a POF model. I am building Hayling from the plans drafted by David Antscherl, based on plans and documents in the Royal Museums Greenwich collection. I would imagine that without the RMG , that this build would never happen. So, a special thanks to the museum for making this build possible.
 
Being a first attempt, I expect that there will be many do-overs along the way. In anticipation of that, I ordered 50% more boxwood sheets than the build would normally call for. All of the wood was supplied by Jason at Crown Timberyard. To play it safe, I went with 2" instead of 3" widths which should help to maintain flatness in the wood. To lessen the need for thickness sanding, Jason was able to supply sheets a few thousands over the scale inches needed.
 
Much of the information for the build will be referenced from "The Fully Framed Model" Vol I thru IV at SeaWatch Books. https://www.seawatchbooks.com/SWBTitles.htm 
 
Before getting started, here are a few words from David Antscherl. .
 
The  Hayling  hoy
© David Antscherl 2017
What  is  a  hoy?
hoy, (bateau de passage, Fr.) a small vessel, usually rigged as a sloop, and employed in carrying passengers and goods from one place to another, particularly on the sea-coast, where ordinary lighters cannot be managed with safety or convenience. It would be difficult to describe, precisely, the marks of distinction between this vessel and some others of the same size, which are also rigged in the same manner; because what is called a hoy in one place, would assume the name of sloop or smack in another; and even people who navigate these vessels have, upon examination, very vague ideas of the marks by which they are distinguished from the above-mentioned. In Holland, the hoy has two masts; in England it has but one, where the main-sail is sometimes extended by a boom, and sometimes without it. This prolix, sub-clause filled entry in William Burney’s 1815 edition of Falconer’s New Universal Dictionary of the Marine leaves much to be desired in way of precise definition. Looking at plans of lighters and hoys, they seem to have much in common. Falconer defines a lighter as follows:
 
lighter, (barque, ou gabare, Fr.) a large open flat-bottomed vessel, generally managed with oars, and employed to carry goods to or from a ship when she is to be laden with, or delivered of, her stores, &c. However there were also sailing lighters, very similar to hoys. These were about 60 to 70 feet in length. Both had fairly similar hull forms and were also usually sloop or cutter rigged. Lighters were distinguished from hoys by the heavy davit (or sometimes two) carried forward over the bow. The other difference seems to be that only hoys carried passengers as well as goods.
 
Where  does  the  name  hayling  come  from?
Hayling Island, shaped like an irregular inverted ‘T’, is located close to Portsmouth, Hampshire. Portsmouth lies to the west across LangstoneHarbour and to the east side is ChichesterHarbour. The island is connected to the mainland by a bridge at its narrower north end. An iron-age shrine built on the island later became the site of a Roman temple. Salt production on the island, recorded in the Domesday Book, continued until the late 19th century. A chapel was established on HaylingIsland sometime in the 12th century. This became St Peter's Church, now the oldest surviving church there. Its peal of three bells, cast in about 1350, is considered one of the oldest extant in England. In 1944 the island was used for a mock invasion exercise as part of preparation for D-Day. Oyster farming was carried out for many centuries, and the oyster beds are now being restored.
 
That the hoy would be named after the island is appropriate, as she was designed to work in the adjacent Portsmouth harbour.
 
Why  a  model  of  a  hoy?
The choice of Hayling as a subject was chosen for several reasons. First, it is a subject rarely seen in model form. Secondly the hull, if fully framed, is considerably less complex to construct than even that of a sixth rate, but still illustrates all its principal features. There are no ports or sweep ports to frame. Also, there are very few chocked joints required in constructing the frames. The frames consist of fewer pieces than in larger vessels. Neither does a model of this size consume many board feet of expensive exotic wood. All these features make her an ideal subject for a first effort at ‘real’ framing. In addition, Hayling’s rig is comparatively simple. A rigged model, even at 1:48 scale, will not take up too much space. Lastly, there is no carved work. Carving is something that puts off many model-makers from tackling 18th century subjects. The only ornament, a simple scroll head, is a relatively easy feature to model.
 
A  brief  history  of  the  Hayling  hoy.
Hayling was constructed by the well-known builder Henry Adams of Buckler’s Hard. Nelson’s favorite, Agamemnon of 1781, 64 guns, was one famous product of his shipyard. Others included Indefatigable, also of 1781 and 64 guns, and the frigate Euryalus of 1803, 36 guns. Buckler’s Hard is situated 10 miles upriver at a bend on the west side of the BeaulieuRiver. The lower tidal part of the winding river enters the Solent opposite the Isle of Wight near Portsmouth.
 
Hayling was the third vessel of that name. The first Hayling, of 117 tons, was purchased in 1705 and rebuilt at Portsmouth Dockyard in 1729. The second, actually the rebuilt, Hayling, also spelled Heylin, was converted into a sloop in 1759 for use as a floating battery off the coast of Africa. This triggered the order to construct her replacement, the third Hayling.
 
“New Hoy propos’d in ye (the) Room of ye (the) Hayling” was written on a draught (zaz 5828) signed Allin and dated 30th August 1759. Joseph Allin was joint Surveyor for the Navy with Sir Jacob Ackworth. A copy of another draught (zaz 5829) was sent to Henry Adams on 27th September as “per contract”. Hayling was launched the following year in 1760. After 22 years of service, she was lost when she foundered in the Channel in 1782. (David Lyon, The Sailing Navy List 1688-1860, page 321.) This was a lengthy working life for a knock-about service vessel.
 
Hayling’s armament, if any, is not recorded. Two of four of her draughts that are extant  -dated August and September 1759 - show four swivel mounts on each side. However, her ‘as launched’ draught, zaz 5830, does not. Whether swivels were actually fitted or not is unknown, but probably unlikely.
 
Sources  of  information
The primary source of information is through the draughts held by Royal Museums Greenwich, formerly The National Maritime Museum. There are four draughts extant. The first is a design draught showing a scroll head dated 3rd August, 1759 (zaz 5827). It shows very little detail and some pencil alterations have been sketched along the topsides.
 
 
The second draught (zaz 5828) is dated 30th August 1759. It shows a fiddle head and for swivel mounts a side. Far more detailed than the first draught, it includes the profile and weather deck details in red ink. Titled “New Hoy propos’d in y(e) Room of y(e) Hayling” this draught has the signature of approval of Joseph Allin, joint Surveyor of the Navy.
 
A third draught (zaz 5829) is also much more detailed, and is annotated as follows: “A Copy for this was given to Mr. Henry Adams for Building the Vessell (pr Cont’t) 27th Sept. 1759”. This also shows four swivel mounts a side and a fiddle head. There must have been more than one copy, as this draught is titled “A Copy of A Draught for Building A New Hoy in the Room of the Hayling for the Use of his Majesty’s Yard at Portsmouth”.
 
The fourth detailed ‘as launched’ draught (zaz 5830) gives a table of dimensions of all Hayling’s masts and spars. It is undated, other than a modern pencil annotation of 1760, but states that her ‘Draught of Water when Launch’d Fore 5(') 5( ") Abaft 7(') 0("). No swivel mounts are shown. This must be the yard draught that was subsequently filed with the Admiralty.
 

 
Further inboard details were gleaned from the draught of a 56' 0" mooring lighter (zaz 5895) dated 1764. This, conveniently, shows a cross-section from which I lifted scantlings for the longitudinal members of the vessel.
 
 
 
To start things off I needed to construct a building board. This was made from 3/4" x 10" x 27" M.D.F.  It is supported by 1" x 3" pre-primed pine battens longitudinally beneath. 1 1/2" dry wall screws were counter sunk into the M.D.F. to hold the battens in place. After checking to see that the board was flat in both directions it was given two coats of primer using a roller.
 

 
The board drawing was then adhered to the building board with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. Now, we have had a few humid days here and I noticed a slight wrinkling in the paper afterwards. This reminded me of some of the issues that Ben was having with his HMS Pegasus. In an effort to keep the humidity under control before this got even worse, I purchased a small room de-humidifier. In only a few hours the wrinkles disappeared. I keep the RH levels at 50% more or less.
 
Note: I extended the fore and aft cant lines to make it easier to setup those frames later on.
 

Mike

Hi Mike,
 
We all need extra holes in the head.  It's what helps our brains cool down when we overheat it with all the things we want to do.
 
Looks like you're off to a good start.  I'll be watching.  

Sorry to hear about the backward step. 
 
The two steps forward are really good though.
 
It's been nice to see you back and working on this.
 
Richard.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 215 – Bowsprit Hearts 2
 
Making hearts for the bowsprit rigging was discussed in the last post.  Eight of these are required to lash the chain bobstays and bowsprit shrouds near the end of the bowsprit.  Bands for these connections and for the martingale are shown in the first picture.
 

 
I expect to use eyes on all spar bands vs. lugs.  Maneuvering shackles over lugs is a problem and contemporary documents show both.  Lugs shown on this drawing will be corrected.  The numbers on the drawing are the rigging line numbers at connection points.  The inner bobstay is the number 1 line on the list and its eye is shown on the third band.  The picture also shows a shackled heart assembly.  In the next picture the bands have been drilled for the shackle eyebolts.
 

 
My plan is to screw these twisted-wire eyebolts into the holes and if possible eliminate glue.  This allows the full assembly to be blackened after installation without fear of unblackened glue spots. More on this below. 
 
The next picture shows a shackle bolt being soldered on with the eyebolt pre-fitted.
 

 
After soldering and trimming of the bolt, the eyebolt must be slid around the ring to fit over the short bolt at the bottom.  This can be a tight squeeze.
 
The next picture shows the four shackled hearts mounted on the bowsprit.
 

 
These were all twisted (screwed) into the drilled holes. They are very secure without glue, but any loose bolts can always be reinforced with glue later if necessary.  This really simplifies the blackening process.  The blackened assembly is shown below.
 

 
This spar is unfinished at this stage so the wood has no protection yet.  The ironwork was blackened by brushing with liver of sulfur solution and rinsing immediately under a faucet, repeating the steps until all the copper was black.  This keeps excess black from being deposited on the wood.  The spar is still damp in this picture.
 
The last picture shows the finished assembly on the temporarily mounted bowsprit.
 

 
Other work on the bowsprit may now proceed.
 
 
Ed

Display her afloat with sails bellowed out hard and healed over about 30 °. a wider base with the healing over would shorten the needed height and allow for deck features to be prominent. Now 61.5 inches, if leaned over 30° she would be 53.26 inches high, making her 8.24" shorter if the lower pivot point was held, something to think about and add some action to the display. Healed away from the viewer would clear the view of the deck and be low enough to see detail. Be watching to see how you choose to display. The simulated water could be opaque and allow the keel to be seen and if it were an opaque solid, the center of gravity would be low enough with enough mass for the cat to climb the rigging without an upset.
jud

Hi Frank. 
 
I know now that I've said it before, but I'll say it again..."Flipping amazing"!  
 
I think there should be a law against making things look so easy. 
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Greg ... When you put it that way even I find it hard to believe!!!
 
But yes, it's made just the way you said.   The cardboard was used but just as a pattern for the sides.   It was replaced by Arborite samples (you know those little 3x2 samples hanging on a board in the hardware store?) ... where a flat strong surface was needed.   I found thin sheets of smoked plastic (sold as replacement for the visor of a welder's mask) and they made perfect tinted windows.  
My neighbour is still puzzled by the missing boards in his deck!!  
 
The steering wheel rim was made from a little aluminium flashlight I got when I bought a new razor ...
 
it had a solid ring of the right diameter on the end ... just needed to be liberated.

Made a perfect wheel with stainless rod bent to shape and pulled into 4 shallow holes

The real thing

All I'm trying to show is that with a little imagination (and a healthy stockpile of scrap metals) you can find items that contain the shape you need.
 
Frank
 
 
 

Try pouring some shot into the hull till it feels right. Then solidify it by pouring in some epoxy.