Littlebob

Time for an update. I am starting to run out of details to do before I remake the sails, I guess I am just putting off what I know I will have to do.
 
The first pic shows the installed anchors. The second pic shows the installed cap on the transom and the PE Virginia letters.
 
The last pic shows the stock latina Throats on the right and my scratch built ones on the left with the added steel bands. All comments welcome.

Time for an update. I am starting to run out of details to do before I remake the sails, I guess I am just putting off what I know I will have to do.
 
The first pic shows the installed anchors. The second pic shows the installed cap on the transom and the PE Virginia letters.
 
The last pic shows the stock latina Throats on the right and my scratch built ones on the left with the added steel bands. All comments welcome.

Oar sweeps drilled out, and trimmed using dental drills, needle files, and sandpaper.  Not easy to photograph - sorry for the flash glare!
 

 
 

 
 
And after painting inside the sweeps, then two coats of satin poly:
 
 

 

 
 
Now to the decking.
 
Here's a question, in the hopes someone knows.  The practicum and instructions refer to making parts of the main hatch coamings out of 3/32" by 1/4" walnut.  This does not exist in the supplied timber.
 
There are 4 lengths of 5/64" by 15/64" walnut, which are the closest I can see, but I'm always afraid of running out at a later step if I use the wrong timber.
 
Anyone hit this difference before, or any thoughts?
 
Thanks,
 
Brett

Time for an update. I am starting to run out of details to do before I remake the sails, I guess I am just putting off what I know I will have to do.
 
The first pic shows the installed anchors. The second pic shows the installed cap on the transom and the PE Virginia letters.
 
The last pic shows the stock latina Throats on the right and my scratch built ones on the left with the added steel bands. All comments welcome.

All your models are just beautiful, amazing details.

She looks very nice Pete, should look even better with the sails.

Thank you everyone for your comments - and Geoff will be looking out for your build - good luck.
 
Been busy sorting out a glass case - very expensive but I guess it is needed
 
Regards
 
Doug

Hi Peeps,
Good progress this week. The hull is now painted and I have fitted the propeller (temporary push fit). The propeller provided with the kit conforms to the actual thing, However I would really like to fit one made of brass, I do not have the facilities, knowledge, etc to cast one myself, and the only thing I can find on line are modern props that just do not look right. The prop I have now is 70mm, I thought of buying a larger model in brass and filing it down to the correct look. However (again) the largest I could find was 72mm, and that does not give me enough wiggle room. Any suggestions?

I've completed all the pieces and installed the wheel house, cockpit coaming, companionway and the stove pipe.
 
The coaming pieces were a bit out of shape and needed to be bent to the shape shown on the plans.  While doing the wheel house I noticed that the length of the shaft on the ship’s wheel was not very long and thought I might have a problem installing it over the coaming.  To give the wheel more clearance I filed down the two coaming pieces to form a notch where the wheel house is located.  I also decided to install a baseboard around the base of the coaming that matched the wheel house and companionway.  Before installing the baseboard I filed down the metal rigid along the base of the coaming.  I pre-bent and stained the wood strips before gluing them in place.
 
I actually forgot the two bollards with the cleats were provided with the kit and didn’t remember until after I had started to make them (senior moment).  I liked the the ones I started so I decided not to use the ones provided.  I made them from the 1/16” square wood strip, cut to the length taken from the plans.  For the cleats I notched the bollard and inserted a small piece of wood.
 
I decided to use the grating that is provided although it’s rather large for this scale.  The only modification I made was to sand it down so it wasn't so thick.  I glued the pieces together prior to sanding it and then cut it to shape.
 
 

 
The wooden seat on top of the coaming was made from a piece of the 1/32” thick wooden sheet. Before cutting the seat out I sanded the piece down to about 1/64” so the seat wouldn't be so thick.  I also notched this piece at the wheel house to match the coaming.
 
 

 
For the inside of the cockpit I used a piece of manila folder painted white.
 
 

 
After all the pieces were made I finally got to put it all together.  I had to keep telling myself to be patience and let everything dry before starting.  Even so I think the ploy on the grating was still a little tacky when I glued it down.  I'm glad I notched the coaming and seat because the wheel never would have fit if I didn't.
 
 

 
 
The stove pipe was painted black and the guard was made out of the 28 gage black wire.   Took the pipes location from the plans a drilled all the appropriate holes for it and the guard.
 
 

Hi Everyone
 
Michael Mott, Pete48, Dgbot and JMaitri, etc. Many thanks for your compliments and encouragement. The Ingomar was certainly a beautiful ship in comparison to some of today's modern thoroughbred racing machines (with the exception of examples such as Australia II, which was indeed beautiful). There's just something about the charm, beauty and grace that designers like Hereshoff, Olin Stephens, William Fife, etc were able to build into their designs, that today's naval architects just can't seem to replicate. I guess that's why boats such as the Buzzard Bay yacht and the magnificent cutter that you are building, Michael, hold such fascination for me.
 
Anyhow, thanks all, and enjoy the rest of your weekends!!

The rudder is finished and painted. I'm not all that happy with it.  Even after spraying wiith the PS 55 it still looks too bright and obtrusive.  At least in the process I was able to repair the slight damage to the clear coat over the copper bottom. I guess all the decoration near the rudder will tend to draw the eye away from it - at least that's what I'm hoping. As I was typing this I realised  that I have some copper strip that would have been ideal.
 



 
In the meantime I have started the decoration of the side galleries.  Here there are a few mildly annoying problems.
 
1.The layout of my brass assembly differs from the plans.  As a consequence I went close to carelessly putting one of the pillars in the wrong spot. Moral: dry fit them all before gluing.
2.According to the specifications there should be 4 of Part 377. There are 3.  It doesn't matter as the length each each one is more than sufficient for the purpose with quite a lot left over (you have to cut them off) - unless there is another application that I have overlooked. 
3.There is not enough room to fit decoration 434.  If 436 is to be applied in front of the forward pillar, if it is painted yellow (as I have) it will more or less disappear from sight.  I'll think about painting it black or leaving it off altogether.
 
Here are a couple of progress photos.

 

Thanasis, Antony, Pete, David,  thank you so much ...thanks everyone for the likes ...

Everything I still wanted to this topic is to show a few more photos that I photographed ...

More pics showing the lanyards and the progress made on the quarter galleries. The sections of the galleries are dry fitted until I finish the bottom section.

I've been out of the shipyard for a few weeks. My wife Suzie, isn't doing very well. She's in the end stage of Huntington's Disease now. I've known this was coming for a long time, but that doesn't make it easier. Her doctor says she could hang on for 3 - 4 more years. Still, it's sad, and I've found it hard to get creative lately. I'm going to try to get something done on the Shenandoah this coming week. We'll see.
 
In the meantime, I found an old scroll saw. It's a 1938/39 Walker Turner 24" with a direct drive. Instead of a belt, the motor arbor attaches directly to the crankcase. This means it should run and cut smoother than my old Craftsman. The crank sticking up on top is for adjusting the tension of the blade. I've been fixing it up, which doesn't take much thinking. It only needs to have the table attached and the basic wiring replaced and it'll be ready to try out. I painted it institutional green. It sort of gives me a fresh minty feeling every time I look at it. Here it is minus the table.
 
Steve

Hi Folks -- Here is my latest effort with the hatches.
 
                   
This shows all of them dry fitted into the openings.
 
                   
And this is a close up of the foreward hatch.  You can see, Alistair, that I've taken your comments to heart, in that there is still a very slight curve to this, but so slight as to be almost imperceptible.
 
There are still some details that I'm not particularly thrilled about, for example I wonder if the corners might need just a little bit more rounding off.
 
Your comments have been most helpful, and so are more than welcome.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 
(In previewing this posting, I see that my photos are anything but crisp.  I'll either have to get more light or a better camera!)

Thanks so much Hamilton.
 
Thanks Sam. That's an interesting idea for the deck, but I don't know if it would appeal as a kit. I'm still a way from the head rails (actually I've never liked doing them and probably will put them off as long as possible ), but it would be a help to have the figure head for fitting purposes if that's not too much of an imposition.
 
Bob

Thanks Pete glad to have you along.

Good work Pete, you work fast.

Update time. A couple of distance pics to show the standing rigging and the masts installed.
 
The last pic shows the cannon installed, rigged and the mast hoops made from black wire, I had no choice but to make the mast hoops myself Latina only gave me half of what I needed.
 
Next I have to add the anchors and a few other small detail before I add the sails. All comments welcome

Update time. First 2 pics show some of the new deck furniture along with the scratch built pump (didn't like the metal kit one).
Picture 3 and 4 give a better view of the installed railing which was painted black along with the rubbing strakes, I also painted the outer bulwarks white for some contrast. Next up cannon rigging.
I got my first rigging done on the barrels and a the installed bow sprit. all comments welcome.

Well done, the sails really make a big difference with this model.

Here's a couple photos of the boat from Christmas........

Thanks guys, I just took a really close look at the sails and they are a huge let down, I will install them anyway and see how they look, if they really bother me I will have to make my own.

Oh this does look interesting Peter, I will be following along as well.

Update time. A couple of distance pics to show the standing rigging and the masts installed.
 
The last pic shows the cannon installed, rigged and the mast hoops made from black wire, I had no choice but to make the mast hoops myself Latina only gave me half of what I needed.
 
Next I have to add the anchors and a few other small detail before I add the sails. All comments welcome