mtdoramike

Thye Mamoli 1/90 scale Victory retails new for around $800.00. The rulke of thumb is usually 50% of retail on resale of kits. But it really comes down to what you want and what someone is willing to pay for it. If it's an out of production kit and someone just has to have it, the sky is the limit. I have seen this kit go for $250.00-$300.00 on Ebay. I know this is probably not the news you wanted to hear. 

Thye Mamoli 1/90 scale Victory retails new for around $800.00. The rulke of thumb is usually 50% of retail on resale of kits. But it really comes down to what you want and what someone is willing to pay for it. If it's an out of production kit and someone just has to have it, the sky is the limit. I have seen this kit go for $250.00-$300.00 on Ebay. I know this is probably not the news you wanted to hear. 

Rick,
 
The difficulty with copies is their provenance. If the original owner purchased them from, say, the NMM, then passing them along to someone else would not violate copyright, since the NMM was compensated for what is called the right of first sale, i.e. they received their money but are not entitled to the proceeds of any subsequent re-selling -- it's one set of plans = one fee paid to the NMM. But if the original purchaser copied his copies, kept his original copies, and then gave you the second set off copies, he would be guilty of defrauding the NMM by creating a second set of copies in lieu of a first set you would have had to purchase for yourself in accordance with the right of first sale, i.e. two sets of plans were made but only one fee was paid to the NMM. The upshot of this is that if you can't verify the provenance of the plans, both the law and common courtesy require that you do not distribute the plans.

Post Fifty-four
Completing the Great Cabin.
 
The cills are made using 0.8mm x 6mm Pearwood strip.

1832
The unused seat pattern (198) made a good template for cutting the cill to fit between the frames.

1838(2)
The slots were cut out on the scroll saw.

1835
Fitting was a case of slowly adjusting the slots to fit.

1841
The process went far more smoothly than I dared hope.

1846
The bulwarks have been given the w-o-p treatment and I’m still not sure whether to paint the panelling with an ivory tone.
Also wracked with indecision about the kit provided ‘parquet’ flooring or use of the alternative b/w chequer.

1845
This I can defer until I see how things look between the Qtr deck beams.
 
The Gallery doors present something of a problem, I removed these when I modified the Qtr Galleries, and the question is how or whether to refit them.
I don’t think Chuck fitted doors to the Quarter Galleries of Winchelsea.
 
The doors are engraved on one side only, are not square, and if to be displayed open need reversing to show the patterns.
If hinged on the left they open against the bench arrangement, and either way they open onto the spirketting and deck clamps.
Another feature that I can’t get my head around and I’ll leave them off for the present.
 
The port linings and inner bulwarks have been painted; careful masking of the port surrounds is required to avoid getting paint on the ‘bright’ outer planking.

1850(2)
Tedious business this, using a fine brush and not too thin a paint mix to decrease the risk of bleed.
I note that Chuck leaves the inside edges of the planking around the ports clear of paint, an arrangement I followed on my Cheerful build.
I do like this effect, but it is not one reflected on many contemporary models and I think I would struggle to replicate it on the 1:64 scale Sphinx.

1867

1861

1859

1857(2)
Four months into the build and I am now ready to set out the centre line deck fittings.
 
B.E.
21/12/21
 

Thanks Guys for your support.
 
Post Twenty-eight
 
Attending to inboard works
With the major dust fest completed, it’s time for a GTU before I get down to applying some paint to the inner bulwarks.

0837
This is about as good as it gets during a build.

0838
Trial fit of the Topsides planking, careful attention to alignment with the ports is the prime concern here.

0857(2)
I am quite impressed with these pre formed topside planking strips, they look good and certainly  save all that planking between the ports.
Fitting them will have wait until I have planked the deck.
 
Painting the inner bulwarks
I have decided to use Vallejo Flat Red, applied by brush, but before I begin I need to consider the inner surfaces of the gun ports.
They have an mdf core sandwiched between thin layers of Pearwood.
 
I am thinking that the ports should be lined even tho’ they have no lids, except in relation to the stern area and Bridle ports. They were lined on Pegasus, and the painting of Sphinx does appear to represent them.
I do like the look of port Stops and I am tempted to add them using 0.6mm Boxwood.
 
Strictly speaking the internal quickworks and spirketting should cover the linings, too late for that now, but as it is all to be painted that aspect will not be obvious.
 
This is mainly viewed as an external feature.

0841
This is a mock-up of a lined port using 0.6mm Boxwood. This thickness equates to 1½” which is about right for the stops.
Lining the ports is a tricky business, particularly the side pieces which must be angled to fit the port; and there are 44 of the beggars to make.

0848
I don’t want to mess with the outer planking patterns so I need to ensure that they meet the edges of the framing exactly, if I’m going to proceed.
 
On the subject of ports I was a little surprised, and somewhat relieved, that sweep ports are not represented on the model, unless of course they had been laser cut by Chris.
 
Pegasus had them, and they are shown on the Admiralty plans; they are not included on the plans for Sphinx. Neither are they depicted on the Marshall painting. The Marshall paintings do show them on the 6th rate Kingfisher, but not the Frigate Enterprize.

0866(2)
I’ll faff around with this awhile, to assess any potential issues, but I have given the inner bulwarks a very light sanding and the application of diluted wop as a base preparation for the paint.
 
B.E.
23/10/21
 

Post Twenty-six
 
Sand fill and sand again.
There are the usual (for me) strake ridges to attend to, I didn’t pay much attention to variations in plank thickness during planking, and there was a fair variation across the plank supply. Several of the planks were below 0.7mm and effectively unusable, being too soft to span the bulkheads without flexing.
Only minimum filling was required in small areas. For this I use Deluxe Wonderfill a lightweight filler that dries quickly and sands well.
It works well for small indentations and hollows in planking runs.

0742(2)
I take photos under harsh lighting to reveal irregularities, along with the blind feel test.
 
At the point I think ‘That’ll do’ I take more photos and faff around some more.

0753
With the model on my desk I can compare with macro photos where areas need a little more attention.
 
After a day of sanding, filling, and feeling, I reach the point of enough is enough and move onto the Pearwood keel, stem, and sternpost.
 
The fit of the stern post to keel was excellent, but the stem to keel at the bow needed some fettlin’ to get a nice tight fit between keel and stem.
 
This is important if the option to not paint the lower hull is to be retained.
I didn’t need to mess with the stem piece, just clean the false keel up.
 
Keeping the stem piece hard down against the keel piece proved quite tricky using pva.

0760(2)
This is the only clamp that had sufficient bite to secure it in position until the glue grabbed.
Might have proved easier to use cyano for this joint.

0770

0772
At the stern area I have reduced the planks to a feather edge where they meet the stern post, not difficult with a soft wood like Lime.

0779

0777
The white filler generally indicates where the planking strip was undersize in thickness.

0780(2)

0800

0789(2)

0786

0791(2)

0790(2)
After eight weeks work, I have the basic hull completed, and something that is recognisable as a bijou Frigate.
 
Moving on…
 
B.E. 20/10/21
 
 

Post Twenty-five
Planking, planking, and more planking.
 
After a further eight days the first planking is completed, and a first rough sanding applied.

0687(2)

0680(2)

0672(2)
The keel, stem, and stern posts temporarily in place.

0671

0684(2)

0674(2)

0710
Pleased to see that the hull formation sits quite well on the stand.

0713
The sanding will now continue until I achieve satisfaction, or my patience runs out.
 
B.E.
18/10/21

Dear friends,
We're happy to announce the arrival to our warehouse of two new items.
The first one, after hearing to our friends and customers asking for it for a long time, is a new edition of our acclaimed Santa Ana model. We present a revised edition to offer the possibility of building the ship as it appeared at Trafalgar battle.
Artillery from previous model has been completely reworked; new artillery is 100% new, at the correct scale and historically accurate, including carronades. Old diecast boats have been replaced with wooden ones. Lion figurehead is a 100% new design and mold, much more detailed and historically accurate. Instructions have been revised and completed to include how to convert the model in Trafalgar version. Sapele veneer is included so you're able to complete a classic, wooden version in case you don't want to make the painted Trafalgar version suggested. You can take a deep look at the model here:
 
 
And you can take a look at the contents of this new version of the model here:
 
 
The second one is a new version of one of our iconic american classics, Harvey. You can take a look at this beauty here:
 
 
And here you can discover the contents:
 
 
Don't forget to take a look at these and much more at our website.
Many thanks and best regards from Spain!

I think they heard you......
 
 

The Santa Ana has always been on my to do list as well. I'm hoping to see it offered in the U.S. fairly soon. 

Looking good!  Great start of a cool little subject.  Even better that it's local to you.

I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white. 

I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.

I've finished planking the hull and skimming the exterior with body filler. I'll lay down the fiberglass cloth and resin when the humidity goes down a bit.

I happen to be reading the paper this morning and came across an article about the very style of boat the Miss Chloe is, and there are a few of them actually being used to offer boat rides on a lake not so near me. There are a few differences to these compared to Miss Chloe, like the rounded stern/transom and the canopy extending all they way up to the cabin. I'm going to have to take a little trip over there to take a ride on one of them. I actually like the rounded transom better than the squared one on the Chloe, but we'll see how she turns out, I can always make another one with a round transom.  

I cut out the keel and frames from 1/8" plywood and now planking the hull with 1/8"x3/8" balsa planking. I picked up a square of fabric that I thought would be appropriate and look nice and a bit different than the usual striped canopy top.

This will be a build of a pleasure/river/lake boat, which was designed by Pat Tritle of the Miss Chloe. I will be working off of a set of plans that I obtained from P. Tritle. She will be roughly 26-27" in length and Beam will be about 7.5". I put in an order for the wood needed to build the Chloe from National Balsa. I started off by cutting out all of the frames and various parts from the plan sheet and gluing them to card stock type heavy paper in order to make templates for current and future use. I then tacked up the working plans and will stare at them for a few days in order to get prepared for the build. 
 
Disclaimer: I may decide to make some changes here and there, so don't expect a straight from the plans type of build. You may be dissapointed.

I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white. 

I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white. 

I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white. 

I happen to be reading the paper this morning and came across an article about the very style of boat the Miss Chloe is, and there are a few of them actually being used to offer boat rides on a lake not so near me. There are a few differences to these compared to Miss Chloe, like the rounded stern/transom and the canopy extending all they way up to the cabin. I'm going to have to take a little trip over there to take a ride on one of them. I actually like the rounded transom better than the squared one on the Chloe, but we'll see how she turns out, I can always make another one with a round transom.  

I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.

I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.

I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.

My daughter painted this for me when she was 9 years old. I know it isn't museum worthy, but it is priceless to me and I have it proudly displayed in my workshop(s) for the past 30 years.  When ever she stops by, she says "I can't believe you kept that old thing after all these years" I tell her, it can't be bought with money marbles or chaulk.