Jump to content

Jack12477

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,573

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    Denis (Popeye), Gerty, thanks for stopping by and your compliments. Gerty, I've been using your excellent model as a reference to help me decipher these cluttered plans. The shipyard will be a little slow the next couple of weeks as we have our youngest granddaughter visiting us for a few weeks. Lots of side trips planned.
  2. Jack12477
    Looking good, Mark.
  3. Jack12477
    While browsing the digital edition of the Rochester NY Democrat and Chronicle newspaper this morning, I came across this very interesting article about the USS Rochester and one of our MSW members, Tim Igoe, and his model of the USS Rochester. I thought I would share it with the group. Congratulations Tim.
  4. Jack12477
    Rob, if you have some basic wood carving knifes or gouges or even some small [miniature] block planes (similar to the Veritas micro planes from Lee Valley or even the small ebony wood miniature planes) you can start shaving the clunker blocks down. Start as Thistle points out at the bow and work towards the stern. Set the plane to remove the smallest chip you can. Work slowly. You can also use a Dremel with one of their drum sander attachments - start at a low RPM speed and increase as you get comfortable. Start at the outer edge and work it inward, rough shaping as you go. If you aren't comfortable, take a scrap block of wood the same dimension and practice off model till you get the feel for it. Work slowly and take small increments of wood off. I didn't have to deal with the clunkers on mine because silly me forgot to read the booklet instructions and planked the entire hull bottom - had to finesse the bow a bit when I realized my mistake but it all came out okay. I use this Lee Valley block plane as well as this one (item A in the picture) Hope this helps.
  5. Jack12477
    Marcus, welcome aboard and thanks for the compliment. Mark, Ken, Carl, thanks for the compliments.
  6. Jack12477
    WOW, nice work on the sleeping platforms, Frank. I'm with Patrick's comment on milling the mortises - very impressive.
  7. Jack12477
    My son is an artist (Fine Art painter) and modeler and hobbyist as well. His recommendation is Grumbacher brand white nylon synthetic brushes seem to work best when applying acrylic coats to any wood, hold up the best, will have an even and consistent spread to them. He would go with a filbert cut; for large hull areas, use a #6, #8, #10 or #12 brush. When cleaning you can use soap and water, just water, or saddle soap/brush cleaner. The white nylons last the longest. Keep in mind when using water based paints, depending on the consistency of water to paint ratio, your first coat over a wood surface will suck right in. He prefers to use multiple thin layers of paint, but if you want a bolder, thicker coat use less water. My son has been using these brushes on multiple surfaces ranging from wood, latex, hard plastic polymers, vinyl, and porcelain on hobby projects for years with excellent results. As Bob Cleek points out above "synthetic bristles for water-based paint and natural bristles for oil-based paint". For oil base paints my son prefers Camel hair brushes; they last longer, shed the least of the non-synthetic hair brushes. Any other questions, feel free to post here and I will pass it along to him. Update: Here's a photo of the Saddle Soap my son uses to clean his brushes.
  8. Jack12477
    Thanks, Ken. More work on the railings - now have the entire railing done. After marking and drilling the holes for the nails in both the railing and the ship's sheer. I insert the nails in the holes first, then place a 1/16" x 1/32" tube over each nail, then place a tiny drop of thin CA where the nail protrudes thru the tube. This keeps the tube from slipping off and winding up on the floor as I turn the rail over to align it with the pre-drilled holes. Then using a tweezer to align the nails with the hold, and using finger pressure I press them into the holes. To completely seat them into the deck I use a small hobby hammer (smaller and lighter than a standard tack hammer) to drive the nails all the way into the wood. Then another drop of thin CA to lock them in place. Then finished rails
  9. Jack12477
    Rob, nice job on the sides. They came out a lot better than mine - I had to use filler to get them to mate completely at the transom. You've got a nice smooth curve to yours.
  10. Jack12477
    Rob, thanks for the compliment and for looking in - also thanks to all those who hit the LIKE button Carl, I'm going to leave them as is - tried pounding them down further but they won't go in any further and I'm afraid I will break more than the railing if I hit them with anything heavier. The rail material is pretty thin and I'm afraid grinding the heads off will damage the rails.
  11. Jack12477
    Another small update ( summer gets in the way of progress ) Got the forward railings installed on both sides. Used the 1/16" x 3/32" brass tubes I had cut earlier, drilled holes in the rails at 1/2" intervals, pushed the bras nails (which are magnetic by the way ) thru the rails, inserted the tubes over the nails, then pre-drilled holes into the sheer and with a little persuasion from my hobby hammer drove the nails home. After that I gave each nail a drop of thin CA using a cut-off sewing needle eye as the applicator. Of course the rails were pre-painted green to match the wales and cabin roofs. Also installed the pulley to raise and lower the "dagger board" in the keel. Photos follow: Nails and stanchion tubes for the rails: Rails installed Pulley for raising/lowering "dagger board" (aka center board - my Sailfish sailing lingo is coming out)
  12. Jack12477
    It is definitely an "in-store" credit - friend of mine did the same thing a few years back and it's a credit for another kit. They do honor the credit.
  13. Jack12477
    You can ! Open the log to the first entry, click EDIT (in first post) , then click on USE FULL EDITOR, that opens a window with the log title in it. Just type the word into the title. Then click SAVE
  14. Jack12477
    Sean, nice work. Sorry about the hand; looks like you suffered the same fracture, same hand, my son (40) had about 2 months back, except he had to have surgery to fix his (4th and 5th metatarsal/metacarpal bones - ring and pinky fingers). I can sympathize with you. Oh and he was cold sober when he did it.
  15. Jack12477
    Nice launch, Sjors. I like it.
  16. Jack12477
    Bob, great looking case and base. Thanks for the tutorial.
  17. Jack12477
    Thanks, Chris. I just updated mine to the new convention.
  18. Jack12477
    Rob, the cutting jig came from MicroMark see here. It works well. MicroMark is a good tool source, fast delivery to Northeast areas. The tubing fits in a V groove, the larger silver tube is where the slider moves in and out to set the cut length (see photos 2 <set for 3/32 cut> and 3 <set for longer cut> the material to be cut sits in the V groove, extends to the stop block <block with set screw on side>, the saw fits in a tiny saw slot visible in photo 3. The unsecured end (left side in photos) has to be held down with finger(s) or some other clamp. You can screw the jig to a larger surface as shown in the first photo (uses #6 screws). The cut off end just drops onto the work surface or in this case into the V groove because the stop block prevents it from falling out <hence the tweezers in photo> Another good miter box is this one along with the razor blade saw I get a lot of use out of both jigs/miter box. The razor blade saw is great. Check out MicroMark's online catalog. Also check out my post in the "What have you received today" forum for some additional tools. Also SRC's post a couple above mine.
  19. Jack12477
    It's been a few weeks, but progress has been slow. Working on cutting the tiny 1/16" diameter x 3/32" long brass tubes for the cap rail posts. Had to dig around in the ole toy box till I found a suitable jig to use to cut repetitive lengths of pipe. 24 pieces cut so far, about a dozen more to go. The jewelers saw was the only saw small enough to fit in the slot and tough enough to cut the brass tubing.
  20. Jack12477
    Nice Mark, Janet will like that I'm sure.
  21. Jack12477
    Rob, nice solution to the keelson problem.
  22. Jack12477
    Happy birthday, Mark :pirate41: :pirate41: :pirate41: :pirate41: :pirate41:
  23. Jack12477
    Panel doors constructed not simulated! - miniature brass door knobs! - Glen impressive and magnificent craftsmanship - Your stairs look great also - look like the real thing. An inspiration to all of us.
  24. Jack12477
    I think I'll join the group, been looking at this kit for a while now
  25. Jack12477
    Ran across this article in the Rochester NY Democrat and Chronicle newspaper today.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...