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Jack12477

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  1. Jack12477
    Mike, Dremel offers interchangeable collets for its drill. They will take anything from the micro drills (pin vise type) up to almost a "regular" drill - the supplied Dremel bits (sanding, routing, drilling, etc) are all 1/8 inch shafts, that's their default size. I have the extra collets and changing them over is easy. If I can find the conversion chart to convert the numbered drills, e.g. #68, #74 etc. to metric I will post a link here. The collet set includes 1 Collet and nuts for 1/8, 3/32, 1/16, and 1 32" bits.
  2. Jack12477
    Wish I could carve that well. Dr Hocker is a talented carver.
  3. Jack12477
    Beautiful workmanship, Glenn. Love the Serce model also (and the carved boatman figure).
  4. Jack12477
    Thanks, Gerty
  5. Jack12477
    Well, i finally figured out how to solder brass. Not the best results but pretty good for a first time effort. Haven't decided whether I want to leave them as a dirty worn look brass or paint them black. (Don't have any Blacken-It solution). Right now they are just dry fit in place. This is the port side view. Starboard still needs the vertical roller. Oh and I have to plug the misaligned hole I cut in the channel.
  6. Jack12477
    Thanks Lawrence & Dennis for the advice and encouragement. Yes, I am slowly starting to get the hang of it. Got the two dredge roller support brackets soldered after several failed attempts Now I just have to do some fine tuning before I can install them. Photos will follow in a bit. And thanks to all who hit the Like button. Question: What do you use to clean the brass parts after soldering? Vinegar, soap & water, ???
  7. Jack12477
    Really nice base, Bob
  8. Jack12477
    Looking good, Mark
  9. Jack12477
    Thanks Kurt ! I did manage to "accidentally" get two pieces soldered together - flat bar to round tube - but when I tried to repeat it I failed. I will eventually figure it out.
  10. Jack12477
    Thanks, John, I'll take a look at it. Right now I'm using an iron with a tip temperature of 900 F and StayBrite brand solder with an acid-free petroleum based paste flux. My problem might be not having the two pieces in tight contact. Will have to check again.
  11. Jack12477
    Oh I am getting a lot of practice, Joe. Getting an "E" for Effort but an "F" in completion :( ;)
  12. Jack12477
    Small update: Sometimes progress is measured in millimeters Finally added the rudder assembly and foreward capstan/winch. Still trying to learn to solder - so far getting an "F" in the class.
  13. Jack12477
    Thanks, Kurt. I'll give it a try.
  14. Jack12477
    Thanks, Bill, I'll keep that in mind. And thanks for stopping by.
  15. Jack12477
    Kurt, the soldering iron I'm using is a Weller brand model WPS18MP Pro Series. Specs say it is equivalent to 60 watt iron and will reach 900 degree F in 35 secs, even tho it's an 18 watt. Is this adequate? Also I have Worthington brand water soluble lead-free paste flux, Worthington brand petroleum based paste flux and Harris brand Stay-Clean liquid flux (came with the Stay-Brite solder package). What is the difference among these flux?
  16. Jack12477
    Thanks, Kurt
  17. Jack12477
    Thanks, Kurt. What do you recommend to use to clean the parts? Emery Paper ? Or ??? I have Stay-Brite solder
  18. Jack12477
    Soldering in general gives me problems, Carl. For this I have to construct the oyster dredges, A-frame, side rollers for the dredges and not sure what else of the top of my head. I have the tools for soldering, just have to perfect the technique.
  19. Jack12477
    Well, the summer hiatus is over, cooler weather has moved in (low of 45 F overnight last night) and it's back to the shipyard. I've been debating with myself over how to fabricate the railing(s) around the side and stern section. Didn't like the wire that came with the kit so I got some jewelry wire and experimented with that. I like the braided jewelry wire better than the solid because it more closely resembles wire rope, or cable. I also picked up some jewelry crimp tubes is varies sizes and colors ranging from 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, to 4mm and silver, gold, brass, and bronze. The braided wire is less than 1mm in diameter and folded back on itself it should be around 2 mm + or - in diameter. In practice only the 4mm crimp tube would fit over the folded back rope, so I used that, choosing the darker bronze color for both the rope and crimp tube. Pictures follow: First the wire rope and tubes The end results Now to do more practicing with the soldering iron before tackling the other deck structures. So far the practice sessions haven't been going so well.
  20. Jack12477
    Thanks, Gerty. Yes, Admiral is fine now. I'm still struggling with the brass things, rails, dredge roller, A-frame and stern davits.
  21. Jack12477
    Hi All, just a quick update to let everyone know I am still upright and ventilating and have not abandoned the build. Just on an extended summer hiatus. Just returned from celebrating my Dad's 101st birthday. Have been looking at various ways to solder the various brass fixtures together - soldering is not something I am very good at - I'll be back in the shipyard shortly.
  22. Jack12477
    Wish I had known - unfortunately going to my Dad's today in western NY for his 101st birthday or I would meet you there - CIA is great place to dine. While you are in Hyde Park stop at the FDR mansion and visit his model boat collection in his library.
  23. Jack12477
    Nice drawings Sal.
  24. Jack12477
    Nice choice Sal, pulling up a bench to follow along, My area has a rich history in these steamboats. Another of these Hudson River boats, the Ansonia, was based here in the Esopus Creek in Saugerties.originally owned by William R Renwick's Saugerties Tranportation Company, which he later sold to Robert A Synder who renamed the company the Saugerties and New York Steamboat Company, circa 1877.
  25. Jack12477
    Ian, they did not mention what they were using for ballast For those interested here's a link to their website.

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