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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    Derek, they are water soluble so just thin them down to the consistency you want and brush them on - they go on okay and cover well. I personally find them a tad thick but they are okay to use. Don't throw them out.
  2. Jack12477
    I have not built one of their kits but I have seen several finished models built from their kits and the finished models are extremely beautiful.
  3. Jack12477
    Lawrence, thanks for the compliment and stopping by. Yes, I am slowly getting the hang of soldering and I think the iron is now "broken in" as they say because it seems to melt the solder a lot quicker than when I started. Right now I'm in the midst of deciphering the rigging diagrams and figuring out how these "Lazy Jack" lines get rigged and also how to make them with all their Y-branches. Also have to transfer the sail pattern from the blueprints to another piece of paper so I can have the Admiral make me two sails. (She volunteered to do it). And messing around with some other fiddly bits.
  4. Jack12477
    Just ordered it
  5. Jack12477
    I did the Longboat a while back. It's a very good kit, bit challenging at times, but not overly challenging for a beginner. In addition the kit contains a Practicum written by Chuck Passaro (admin here on MSW) which is an excellent manual on how to build it. There are also an number of build logs here on MSW to use as reference. So I would say YES, go for it. Start a build log here and ask questions. There are plenty of people who can help you. Welcome aboard.
  6. Jack12477
    Congrats, Ken. Absolutely beautiful model and the two figures are very realistic. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
  7. Jack12477
    Ken, beautiful job on the dive suit. It sure looks real. Question: What material is the figure made of? It looks like plastic, but I doubt it is since it would probably melt or deform under the temperatures required to bake the Sculpty.
  8. Jack12477
    Nuked ? Take a gander at this article on a village on NY's Tug Hill plateau. Seriously tho. When I did the lettering for the stern on the Marie Jeanne I put the Home Port name in both English and Irish Gaelic. For the Gaelic font, I just copied and pasted the name from a Gaelic source directly into the Decal Maker program as text, then adjusted the size to fit the stern. If you find the name in a font you like, just copy/paste it into the Decal Maker program and fiddle with it a bit for size and height.
  9. Jack12477
    Hi Russ, just discovered your build. Pulling up a seat in the back to follow along.
  10. Jack12477
    Carl, did I mention photography is my other, actually first, hobby, started that one in 8th grade. Model building came later
  11. Jack12477
    Nice job on the planks, Mark. Looks like the Deathstar is back to full power
  12. Jack12477
    Roger that on the depth of focus - my Canon won't go smaller that F8 - the Pentax will go much smaller. Yeah, ISO 50-100 is generally what I choose when shooting film but haven't "seen" any graininess in the digital so far. Might if I enlarge it a lot but for posting here it's okay.
  13. Jack12477
    Carl, my workshop is in the basement - very narrow windows - no much daylight - so I use one of those accordian arm desk lamps with a 75 watt LED bulb rated for daylight (5000 K). Provides plenty of light for even hand-held photos at ISO 400-800 at f/8.
  14. Jack12477
    WOW! So realistic. Beautiful, Ken.
  15. Jack12477
    Welcome back, was wondering what happened to you. I can empathize with you on the solid hull - did both the Phantom and Sultana kits and did not like the results. Open a build log of your Syren so we can follow along.
  16. Jack12477
    Very nice model, Bob
  17. Jack12477
    You can still use the old fashion method, I discovered the new method while doing plastic armor models. Now I use it all the time.
  18. Jack12477
    You need to coat the sail area where the decal will go with Gloss coat first. Then apply decal.
  19. Jack12477
    Marc, the answer is YES with a caveat. Decals adhere best when applied to a glossy surface, but they can be applied directly to painted wood or any painted surface. There is a set of products produced by Microscale Industries which are recommended for all decal work. The products are Micro Gloss - clear glossy finish for models Micro Flat - clear flat finish for models Micro Set - Setting solution for decals, softens the decal so it adheres to uneven surfaces better, Also used to remove decals Micro Sol - Setting solution for decals - similar to Micro Set but not used to remove them. The way I use them is to prepare the surface with Micro Gloss and let dry; apply the decal, using Micro Sol to get it to "snuggle down". Then let decal dry. After that apply either Micro Gloss over the decal to seal it and give it a shiny finish or apply Micro Flat to seal and give it a dull/flat finish. You can also spray the decal with Testors Dulcote spray but keep the spray at a distance from the decal. I've even applied decals to cloth sails, Marc, see my Marie Jeanne for an example. Most Hobby stores carry it. MicroMark may also carry it altho I have not checked their catalog lately to see, since I have a local source.
  20. Jack12477
    Shep Paine wrote a number of books on detailing models and building dioramas. While primarily aimed at the plastic modeler, specifically armor, his techniques are applicable to all forms of modeling. Kalmbach Publishing carries a lot of his books, they also publish Finescale Modeler magazine, mostly plastic, but the articles on weathering apply to wood as well. Used them as a reference myself for years and still do.
  21. Jack12477
    Hello Rob, just checking in to see how your model is coming along.
  22. Jack12477
    WOW ! Does that ever look real! Fantastic job, Ken!
  23. Jack12477
    According to the packaging Sculpey (I spelled it wrong above) is baked in oven. Can't remember the brand name I used prior to Sculpey but it did not need to be baked; just air dried. I have not used Playdough so can't comment on that one. You could also use blocks of balsa wood covered in fabric. I think if you wander around a Michaels or Hobby Lobby (or the Canadian equivalent) you should be able to find a suitable clay at a cheap price - maybe an artist supply store (as in Fine Art artist) altho they tend to be pricey (at least down here they are). Another source would be fabric (as in sewing) remnants cut into narrow strips then folded over many times, tied into bundles with Chuck's scale rope and glued with the 50-50 mixture. Another technique I use, mostly in my woodcarving pieces, is to collect dead twig size branches that fall off your trees in your yard. The can be split into quarters so they look like split fire wood and stacked. Most of the ones I use are about the diameter of my pinky finger. Leave the bark on them. A sharp stiff Xacto blade will split them easily. Glad I could help.
  24. Jack12477
    You can simulate bags of grain or bales of cotton using a modelers clay, such as Sculptey brand, shape it by hand to the size and shape desired, then wrap it in tissue, such as Kleenex brand, or gauze, such as Band-Aid brand. Use a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water with 1-2 drops of dish detergent (again "wet" water) to set the tissue/gauze in place. The tissue will give a finer weave while the gauze will give it a more coarse weave similar to burlap. Once set it can be brush or spray painted and weather to get the appearance desired. A trip to your local pharmacy will get you a good supply at a reasonably cheap price. For this purpose I'd use the "no-name" brands. I used this technique to make simulated folded tarps, sacks and other "bundles" for my 1:35 scale armor vehicles.
  25. Jack12477
    There are two reproduction Fokker DR I aircraft in the collection of the Olde Rhinebeck Aerodrome in Rhinebeck NY (USA). The first was built by founder Cole Palen in 1967 and was flown in their Sunday airshow (May-Oct) for 20 every weekend for 20 years before being retired. The 2nd DR I was built by Hank Palmer and Louis Wilgus (well-known restorers of early aircraft) in Florida; Cole Palen purchased this 2nd aircraft in 1987 and flew it from Florida to NY. Cole Palen's DR I http://oldrhinebeck.org/fokker-dr-1-triplane-2/ Cole's 2nd DR I http://oldrhinebeck.org/fokker-dr-1-triplane-3/ Olde Rhinebeck Aerodrome website http://oldrhinebeck.org/collection/world-war-1-aircraft/

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