Jack12477

Thank you Denis and John for your kind remarks.
Yes, John, there are many tiny parts to be cemented to this ship. The problem with me taking the pics in high magnification makes the work look a but messy.  However, when seen at normal viewing distance with the paint on them they look rather acceptable to me.
 
This post id for Day 20, December 12, 2017.
In removing one of the search lights the pivot braces broke away from the light body. Now that I am ready for the aft mast, that has two of these buggers on it, I needed to see If I can use some fine brass wire for it but I can't find the part anywhere. Very odd because i have saved almost all the junk the actual parts were attached to for the mold process. So, I had to resort to scratch build a 1:350 scale search light. They are 4.5 mm in diameter and 3 mm wide.  
I scrounged a piece of hardwood dowel and hand sanded it close to size. With a small dentist bur in my small pencil type drill motor I "routed" the inset matching the kit part. Dressed that end with some fine sand paper. Next was to cut it off the dowel at 3 mm. I used my antique scroll saw with 80 teeth per inch. Again dressing that side with fine sand paper.
Now came the forming of the brace from brass wire and the base. I bend the ends to 90 degrees so I can insert them into the sides of the search light so it can swivel.
The base was also made from a piece of wood. I glued the assembly to the base with two part epoxy and let cure before I could dress the base down to match the kit part. I obviously painted it immediately and asked Gwen if she could tell which one was from the kit and which on is the home build one. I cheated though because I held the parts at arm length.  Only after some coaching she found it. In any case, I am happy with the search light and can continue with the aft mast.
I little paint and from regular viewing distance it'll be hard to tell the difference, if you don't know what to look for
 
That was about all I could do this day.    
 

The kit search light, 4.5 mm diameter.
 

The dowel left in a slightly larger diameter to give me enough material to route the center with out the edges breaking off. The final diameter was achieved after the center was routed out.
 

The dentist bur having done its job.
 

The proto search light has been made to 4.5 mm diameter, the attaching brace holes drilled and the new part is ready for detaching from the dowel.  I first used the #11 blade to carefully whittle away most of the wood before using the scroll saw.

The attaching brace is made and installed. Well, not quite the same but it'll have to do.

I used a piece of box wood to make the base.

The search light is now cemented to the roughed out base with two part epoxy, ready be dressed down.
  The new search light is ready for paint.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for the likes.
 
This post brings us to Days 16, 17, 18 and 19, which brings us to December 04, 2018.
I could only spend a little time each day on this project. I cemented the railings on, the machine guns and range finder.  I had to repair one of the machine guns, it lost its barrel and I had to make one from bamboo, The same happened with the range finder so i made a new one, also from a small piece of wood and bamboo. 
I cemented the smoke deflector to the top of the funnel, the search light platform to the main mast, its railing and search light. That platform had also some very small support braces as well as the most top platform with the little "doghouse" with the antenna wire supports.
Cemented all particular PE parts to this sub-assembly as directed by the installation instructions.
The final tweaking of those parts that are in need of straightening out will be done when I'm ready to paint them. This will be done after I have painted the hull in camouflage colors. and have cemented all the superstructure to the hull.
 
This will complete this sub-assemble, more or less.
 

Part of the installation instructions for the assembly.
 

Top view of the completed assembly. Here you can see my scratch build range finder
 

Another view from the rear.
 

Side view starboard side.
 

This is a copy from my 1:50 scale scratch build drawings to show how it's supposed to look like.
 

Another side view. The gun deck looks warped but it has slight droop to it. I tried it on the hull with the support posts under it and it comes to a nice flat deck.
 

This is a photo from the actual ship shoeing the detail brought into the model.
 
Cheers,

First of all my thanks to all for liking the build. I see familiar names too, welcome folks.
 
This post brings us to day 15, November 28, 2018.
 
Spend half this day chasing down the drive belt for my band saw, got a hold of the supplier and he was nice enough to send me the correct one, no charge. I did send him the wrong part back though, it's only a few bucks via regular post. My iMac computer is still at the fixit shop 
 
Even with all that I did get a lot done. I cemented the railing to the lower level of the forward funnel housing and surprised myself how easy this one went. Tack it on in the middle and slowly worked my way around as soon as the tack has set.
Cemented the bands around the funnel as depicted in the installation picture. To be dressed down later. 
I decided to replace the forward machine gun deck supports with scratch build ones from 0.5 mm bamboo. to the funnel housing. 
I could now cement the funnel, machine gun deck and mast to the funnel housing. First I used slow cure epoxy cement, thinking that I needed extra time to keep everything in its proper position. Not a good idea because it was too slippery and very difficult to hold for that long of a time. When the cement had set I discovered that the funnel and mast had crept aft somewhat. So, I had to remove it, clean everything and went back to the CA.  I tried to keep the mast parallel to the funnel and had to remove some material from the forward side of the mast hole in the machine gun deck. Eye balling it it looked good as I put everything together with a few dabs of CA. Just hope it doesn't slip again, this CA gives me a little time before it grabs hold. 
 
Well, that's all for today and here are a few pics.
 

The forward funnel housing with the vent louvers.  Oh yeah, I cemented the rafts on both sides too. The railing is in a constant state of straightening because I keep bumping it, no matter how hard I try not to. Actually, I am not going to worry about it because I'll go over everything anyhow before its on the hull and ready for paint.
 

A view looking aft. The light colored posts are my scratch build 0.5 mm bamboo posts.
 

This is a copy from my scratch build model drawings of the area I'm working on.
 

Top view of the assembly. I also cemented a small platform to the forward side of the funnel. I have no idea what's it for. Looks like possibly the antenna wiring leading into it or the little house between the funnel and the mast, for the radio operator??  Strange place for him, I'm most like wrong in my guess.
 

Top view of the area. Pic is taken from my scratch build model drawings.
 

Here is the side view as it was at the end of this day. I still have some cleaning up to do. The photo is at 3X the actual size, when looking at it in real life things look a lot better. Here is that little "house" with a slanted walkway to the top of it from the top of the funnel platform.  There is something not quite right with this assembly. The position of the machine gun deck is correct because the outboard support posts between the deck and it fit like glove. Either the funnel is too long and I I didn't notice it at first  or the side posts are too short, which i doubt. For now I 'll have to live with it.
 

This is the aft view looking forward.
 

Another side view but at a smaller scale, only 2X magnification.
 
Cheers,

Made a bit more progress today by simulating the lower stem and keel bolts. Holes were drilled with a #76 bit and filled with .017 black monofilament and PVA glue. I'm not a big fan of CA as it has a tendency to discolor the wood.
 
I anxious to see what the Cherry will look like after a coat of W-O-P. I should know soon enough.


Mike

I'm here too

I'm here too

I'm here too

I always worry i wont get the masts glued at the right angles. I made these jigs hold the at the same angles on the plans. Each one is precisely made to fit around the mast and around, over in between, etc. all the stuff in the way to hold it exactly into place. Used small triangle squares to make sure they are not leaning on the sides. I had all this down with a combination of clothes pins and masking tape until the glue is set.
 
Jesse

I rigged the lower lift blocks, jeer blocks and slings before gluing the masts in place.
 
Jesse
 

....which brings us to the most recent.  the starboard side is done......

and an obscure shot of the bow.....

over all,  the bottom looks almost ready for the clear coat.



I already had a look at the bow stem part......the shape...they're kidding....right!?!?!

that's quite a curvature.......the bow is definitely not shaped that way.   I knew I would need to create the curvature,  but I also knew that it would bring it down to the bare plywood underneath.  the more of a flat surface to the bow tip,  the wider it would get.  soon,  it would go beyond the width of the part itself.   taking a piece of wood,  the same width as the part,  sandpaper was cemented onto it,  and was used to form the curved slot for the part.

the sanding continued,  until the part was close to fitting........I even sanded the part a little {but not too much}.   again......I needed to select the keel strip from the bundle.......and again,  nothing to denote the size,  nor the length.   taking an educated guess,  I used the straightest 4 x 5 mm length of walnut {3 in the kit}, and cemented it on,  after trimming the mating end and cutting the trailing end on an angle.


one small adjustment,  and it was ready to dry.   when it is set enough to handle,  I can address the gap.

....after fill it in.......


I separated the bundle I got it from.......you have the dark walnut,  pasty stuff that looks like mahogany.......a strip of .5 x 3 mm blonde stuff {could be sapelli},  and the other walnut strips.

I like the color of this wood.......kinda has that 'barn plank look to it.
 
the mahogany.....if that's what this is....doesn't have a lot of wood grain to it.   some is very bland {seen it before}.

I guess I'll have to make another organizer for this room.   I've managed to finally bring the other organizer out by the main table.   this project will remain here.
     I've put the brakes on any other plastic projects for the time being.   the Norden.......she'll stay on the main table.   once she's done,  the Thermopylae will take her place,  and continue that project there.   thanks for look'in in   

on 2 / 16 the hull planking continued.   I'm having fun confusing the admiral.......I'm either out there with the Norden,  or I'm in the spare room with the Dice AYYYYYYEEEEEE! {what an obnoxious man}.   one side of the hull bottom is done at this time.  there was some minor clinkering,  but tapering the plank helped it to lay better.   especially where I had spliced in planking and around where it met the bottom,  the glue fill method worked well.

all edges were rounded off.........I did some repairs as I was sanding.

I did my best to stay away from CA....only using it where I needed a quick bond.

sanding is never done.......spot checks and spot sanding was done all over.

the wood called for is a lot darker than this......and a lot thinner.   I can afford to sand as much as I want off.....the benefit using 1.5 mm as opposed to the .5 mm dark stuff {walnut}.   the bow stem and keel is walnut......should be a nice contrast.

I'll get the other side done now.  I can wait on the port bow,  to get rid of the remnant of the clinker affair.

the sides were cemented in place......there was a little trouble here.   for one thing,  I failed to fare the bow section good enough,  but I also thing that the spilling of these parts at the bow,  were too aggressive.  originally,  I wasn't going to use them.......I was simply going to plank the sides.   dry fitting planking.....I didn't like how it would have worked out,  so I used the sides.   the aft section was straight forward.......not much of a problem.  first,  the counter was planked over.
    this was done on 2/14

the ends {corners} will be sanded flush for the side planking.   the center was marked on the bottom and the planking started from there.   I plan to give this a clear coat to bring out the wood grain,  so I'm saving all of the fine sawdust,  in order to fill in any gaps or cracks.  the mating at the counter was beveled on the planking for the bottom,  to try and give it a seamless joint.

as you can see in the picture above,  the structures were assembled in between everything that has been going on.   I'm looking at the second issue,  with the structure tabs not lining up with the slots provided,  in the main deck.  so far,  I see that both structures do not line up with their slots.  it could be that the deck is not fitted to the bottom of the hull yet,  which will give it a curvature.   I haven't planked the deck, nor the structures yet,  till this is cleared up.   these structures only go together one way.

further planking has been done.......1/2 almost finished.

the bottom was completely done lickity split.

sanding done to the counter bottom joint.....

tiny cracks and gaps can be filled in by forcing glue in the crack and sanding over it....done this more times than I can count.  after some sanding,  the bottom is beginning to look fairly smooth.

my imaginary line for the center can be readily seen....good!   now,  time to plank the sides.  grabbing a plank strip.......and I notice that it looked a bit wider than the others.........well......nestled in all that planking were six 1.5 x 7 mm plank strips!

sure that I had gotten the odd planking out of the bundle,  the side planking started.   I'm surprised that I didn't see them earlier.

by the time I ended this session,  one side was almost done.   normally,  the admiral and I don't celebrate Valentine's day.........too commercial and we don't need to have a day set aside to make kissy-face     I did take her out to dinner though.......a great time at our local Applebee's  

OK........I just started build'in.........popped out the base of the hull and the bulkhead parts and dug right in.   it's true about bulkheads #4 & #5......the diagram used to number the parts are backwards.  a simple swap.   I started the build on 2/8.

looking at the counter on this hull,  I thought it better to sand the mating surface to the bottom diagonally and deepen the slot by a couple of mm's.   there is more than enough meat on the part to do this.......and there will be enough to bevel the mating surface to the main decking too.

in the meantime,  while this was drying,  the paddle wheel extensions were cemented on the main deck.

by the time I got this set up to dry,  the counter had dried enough to handle.  some sanding took place.

the top was beveled flush with the center spine and bulkheads.......the outer edge was rounded up as well.

one thing that bugs me about this kit,  is that they don't tell you the dimensions of the strip stock to use,  nor the length that part are to be cut.  all they give you are mere part numbers....I have yet to see a breakdown parts list.  once the sides are in place,  the hull is to be planked over.   nothing in the bundles interested me...I had other plans.   I have the pack of .5 x 25 mm mahogany strip stock,  that I've had ....like forever........and I have the big bundle of 1.5 x 5 mahogany strips in the Nordkap kit.   since I'm going to buy new planking to replace it {decorative wood should not be wasted},  I threw that into the consideration list too.

I had cut some of the flat stock mahogany strips down to repair the deck on the Boulogne Etaples...it's apparent that I didn't use it.

there is some really nice wood grain there......but I wondered how it would lay,  once it got wet by the white glue.  I think too much of a problem of it lifting in spots would be an issue,  so I decided on the 1.5 mm planking....good wood grain there as well.

these are about 880 mm long too......so there's plenty to go around.

The work on the bow sprit continues... 

Here are the brackets on the side of the hatch coaming and how they were made. The actual brackets on these lugger hatches is made from two pieces and I have created my own two piece method to get these results. Once they are painted along with the rest of the coaming, it should look okay. I have one more bracket to fit on the forward side of the coaming. 
 
Russ

The hatch covers have been completed except for paint. I am also making the brackets for the planks that would hold the tarpaulin cover in place. There are two on each side of the hatch and the ends. I am going to live with these for a few days and see what I think of them. They may be replaced, but we will see. 
 
Russ

Starting to rig the bowsprit. None of the the lines are attached yet to their respective cleats. I have a few holes and lines to prepare before I am able to do so. 
As I am working on upgrading this build from the standard plan from AL, I need to get more chains. 
Quite a few ropes will be replaced by it. 

I have already actually built the model pictured above......but I just built it in my head. Every step....by step.  I know exactly what the pieces will look like and how all of that trim and molding will be added, etc.  Its not very difficult at all.  The hardest part of that project is convincing ANY one of the folks who can get the lines off the original contemporary models to do so.  Any one of the three contemporary models will do. Or to even share the findings some of them already have.  Its the toughest thing I have ever had to try and do.  Its like these folks in that part of the world think they are keeping a secret cure for cancer or something.  They are just very hesitant to share primary and secondary source information.  Its very off-putting.  I have never had this experience with any other museum, author or knowledgeable historian or scholar on the subject.   I could get state secrets easier than it has been trying to get info on this boeier.  It may be the thing that kills this project before it has a chance of getting out of my head and onto the workbench.  Its probably why no really good kits or projects exists for these boats.  Everything is "need to know" and "I am not sure I want to share" type of stuff.  Its very unfortunate.
 
And I am actually willing to pay for the info....if they wait too long I am sure some other not-so-ethical group will try and find a way to steal it though.  So hopefully they wont hold out too much longer.

Welcome to the group. Great model and looking forward to your next project. Hope you start a build log.

I'll start off by saying I've finished my first wooden model boat. An A.L. Swift 1805. I started it a few years back, then due to planking frustrations, life, etc. it was set aside. The unfinished model always lurked in the back of my mind; needing a distraction from life events that were out of my control, I pulled it out of storage about 6 months ago. I decided despite my mistakes (there have been many) I was going to finish it. 
 
I pushed through, telling myself that it was my first wooden model, there were going to be mistakes, it's part of the learning process. I started having fun, really enjoying the process. And as of last week, it was completed.  Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out for a 1st timer, I learned lots, still have lots to learn. But I think more than anything, I've grown to enjoy the process rather than the final result. At 35 years old, I have time to become better. 
 
I think I will take some time off before starting the next model, but am looking forward to the next one. I have a couple on the shelf to choose from (bought several years ago on a whim, they were on sale...). I find myself leaning towards Corel's Flying Fish, alot more challenging than the Swift, but I still think it's doable with my skills where they're at. 
 
So without further ado, here is the less than perfect, but I'm happy with how it turned out, Swift... 
 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 268 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Parral 1: Wooden Yoke
 
All square yards above the lower topsails will be secured to their masts with parrals.  These each consist of a wooden yoke bolted and strapped against the aft flat of the octagon at the center of each yard.  The yoke is clamped to the yard by means of a hinged strap.  The first picture shows the finished, but as yet unblackened, parral assembly fitted to the fore upper topsail yard.
  

 
The picture also shows the center sling band, the bands for quarter blocks and the holes drilled for the jackstay eyebolts.  This part describes only the modeling of the wooden parral yoke.  You will note in the picture that the inside of the mast opening is lined on the wood face.  The lining of the hinged clasp will be done later.  The next picture shows the wooden yoke before assembly.
 

 
The yoke has been notched for the sling band, but not yet for the two quarter bands.
 
The wooden yokes could be shaped manually, but more precision in the circular opening may be obtained by boring the opening using the milling machine fitted with a rotary table.  Starting with an oversized wood blank, the circular opening of the yoke was bored first, followed by rip sawing to yield a half circle, then sawing the base, and finally shaping the curved sides.  The circular opening was bored using the setup shown in the next picture.
 

 
The four jaw chuck conveniently centers and holds the piece.  For modeling, the diameter of the opening will be 2" larger than the topmast diameter at the lower cap.  This allows 1" for lining and 1" clearance.  In practice, these allowances were more like a total of 1½" – ¾" for leather lining and a ¾" gap.  The bore was made by centering a milling bit on the rotating table, offsetting the bit to cut the correct ID (= hole radius – bit radius), lowering the running bit through the piece and rotating the table a full 360 degrees.   The resulting bore was very precise.
 
Centering the table on the mill spindle using the normal dial indicator method can be a tedious task – a lot of work for this single bore.  The setup shown in the next picture simplifies and speeds up this task and yields sufficient accuracy for these borings.
 

 
The method uses two short lengths of close fitting telescoping tubing.  The larger size is clamped in the four jaw chuck mounted on the rotary table.  The smaller tube is chucked in the spindle.  The X and Y tables are then adjusted until the tubes fit together smoothly as shown – centering the table.  This is most easily done using the sensitive drilling attachment, which is then replaced by the milling chuck. 
 
In the next picture, the yoke has been sawed to yield a half circle for the opening.
 

 
To accurately make this cut, the depth of wood below the bore was measured.  To this was added one-half the bore diameter.  Digital calipers were then set to this dimension and used to set the rip fence on the saw.  After cutting the half circle, the rip fence was reset to the full depth of the yoke and the base excess sawed off.  The curved faces of the yoke were then cut out on the scroll saw and finished with files/sanding.  The notches for the bands were then filed out and the yoke glued to the yard as shown in the next picture.
 

 
You will note that the banding shown on the drawings in some of the photos was later corrected.  Fitting this banding and making the hinge/clasp will be described in the next part.
 
Ed

Steve bought mine in 2013, 2 extra blades and ordered 2 fine tooth blades on-line. Works as good as when it was purchased. When I posted the saw way back it was met with a little disdain, and numerous suggestions of better saws available which were more expensive.
 
Love it, will soon by there scroll saw, and mini table saw and combo belt and disc sander. which will leave me a lot of cash to purchase other materials. I can hear the groans now  why these machines are cheap and aren't precise and etc.
 
Fact is I am 70 will not be building scratch models of museum quality that take years to construct am happy with Harbor Freights cheap tools that serve my purpose and saves a lot of money. Would recommend everything they sell for people that do not have deep pockets. I am a Happy Camper.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 267 – Halyard Gin blocks
 
In preparation for work on the upper topsail yard, I decided to make the iron gin blocks for the halyards for all three of these yards.  These are suspended aft of each topmast from a chain tye shackled to the central band on the yard.  The tye passes through the sheave just below the topmast hounds.  There is one of these iron tye blocks for each of the three upper topsail yards.  They allowed the load of these relatively heavy yards to be distributed to both sides of the ship by means of tackles that will be described later.  The heavy stationary yards below are supported by iron trusses as previously described, while those above have simpler, lighter halyard rigging.  The first picture shows the three finished gin blocks.
 

 
The blocks have inverted T frames that house iron sheaves and an eye at the top to attach the chain tye.  Two have 12" diameter sheaves, one 10".  The frames could be made from formed metal strips, but I chose to use flattened brass tube for these.  The tube was flattened in a vise as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Pieces were then sawed off and given some shaping to form parts for the basic two-piece assembly shown in the picture.  It was then a simple matter to silver-solder these using the setup shown below.
 

 
One side at a time was soldered. The frames were then further refined in size and shape as shown in the next two pictures.
 
 
 

 
The brass strip holding the frame in the above picture served as an anvil to impart some squareness to the frames and to straighten the sides.  The strip also allowed the frames to be center-punched for drilling without deforming the shape.  In the next picture the eyebolt has been soldered into a small hole in the top of the frame and the sheave pin holes are about to be marked for drilling.
 

 
A wooden spacer was inserted into each frame to avoid bending during rilling of the axle holes.  The last picture shows the completed blocks before blackeneing.
 

 
The sheaves were turned and drilled in the lathe from brass rod, then secured with peened copper pins.  The assemblies were then polished, cleaned, and blackened using Brass Black®.  Meanwhile, work progressed on the upper yard itself – next post.
 
Ed