Jack12477

The starboard planking is done!  Yeah! 
 

 
My thumbs were sore, but my planking fingers were working.  I minimized the beveling and that solved the 'thin spots', but there are a few paper thin 'gaps' that were filled by the glue. 
The starboard Middle B belt was 8 planks.  After the first four planks were added, I measured again.  To avoid a 'skinny whiskey plank', I slightly undersized the these planks by 0.05 - 0.1mm. 
I added a couple of black lines to denote the individual belts and shows the difference in planking skills.  Now I need to work on aligning the joints.      
I'll cover this side in blue tape again to prevent the basswood from eroding from handling and dinks when I drop something heavy, like a set of calipers, on the hull.  To keep the blue tape from sticking, I wiped on a thin coat of poly. 
 
Below is the summary of measurements for the starboard side.  With the exception of the 5th, 6th and 7th bulkhead, the measurements for the last four planks varied were within 0.40mm of the first measurement.
 
Later today I'll start planking the port side per the plan below.  This is the side where the planks for the 2nd and 3rd bulkheads are going to be thin.  So this will be 'interesting........' 
 

 
Thanks for stopping by!
 
 

The planking is done!  Yeah!
 
After the last plank, I spent a few hours on each side with scrapers, sand paper and vacuuming!  Also, mixing and adding epoxy to a few thin spots for support.  Time well spent. 
When I started planking, I didn't have a planking plan, so belt A is different on each side.  But somewhere I settled on 6 / 8 and 11 / 13.  Thinking I should have had a third set of joints to break it up a bit more.    

 
The stern stem planking and the stem itself needs a little bit of filler.

 
In the original plan, the planks at the bow stem were 3.24mm on the port side and 3.43 on the starboard side.  Needless to say, I was a bit off.  
By the port side C belt, this measurement was down to 2.62mm.  I contemplated "adding a plank" for about 10 minutes, I stayed with the plan of narrow planks.  In this close up, you can see the difference in size as the planks hit the bow stem.

 
When I did the original planking plan, I thought I was measuring correctly.  To figure out where I went wrong, I 'charted' the planking plan.  In the chart below, the blue line is the original planking plan - the plan flat lined for the bowstem and second bulkhead.  Going back to basics, I 'smoothed' the numbers to follow the general line of the hull, the bow stem to 2.90 mm and 3.00 mm for bulkhead #2.  These measurements would have been a better start until I was able to get a 'solid' measurement.  OK, now I now better.   

 
THE FINAL THREE PLANKS!!!!  
I wanted to make sure the last plank would be easy to shape and get a tight fit.  I remeasured and came up with a plan for the final plank, then worked backwards to get the measurements for the 2nd and 3rd to last planks.  These measurements are highlighted in gray in the spread sheet below. 
In the chart, the blue line shows the smooth shape / plan of the final plank and the green line shows the wonky shape of the other two planks.  It took time to get the 2nd and 3rd wonky planks shaped, but the last plank was really easy to make and fit.       

 
 

 
 
And THAT's the last of the charts and graphs!
 
Need to do a bit more work on each side, then some sanding sealer and some covering to protect the hull from me adding unwanted nicks and dings in the hull.  I still need to decide on paint colors  
 
Thanks for stopping by!
 
Dee Dee
 
 

Cathead, I have to add a few more details there are two ladderways to be added at the end against the bulkhead and two wheels that I think work the anchor brakes while standing on the platform. Standby more to come. 

I have been working back and forth between the bow and stern mooring decks working on the various items. Here is a picture of the stern mooring deck.
 

 
Here is a close up of the ladderway on the starboard side formed from one of Tom's PE sheets. Also note some yellow caution paint on some components which I added per photos.
 

 
One of the more challenging items was a raised platform between the anchor winches that has a meshed floor. My wife had some ribbon that came on a flower bouquet that I liberated from her. I sprayed a section with gray paint let it tack off and then pressed it between two steel blocks to set flat.
 

 
Next I cut a pattern of the platform floor and bent a .020" brass rod around the perimeter of the pattern and soldered the joint.
 

 
I then hammered the formed shape flat and then filed it smooth on both sides.
 

 
Next I bent three U shapes for the legs and hammered the center flat for a mating surface with the frame when soldered together. Once all were soldered in place the legs were all cut to the correct length needed. I then glued a formed ladderway to the edge of the frame and allowed the glue to really set hard.
 

 
I then sprayed the platform frame with gray paint and using a medium thick CA glued the frame to the painted ribbon. Once the glue set I carefully cut it out around the perimeter.
 

 
Next came the rails cut and fitted to the frame and then the painted with the ladderway rails and steps painted yellow.
 

 
Here is the platform in place along with the rest of the fixtures on the bow mooring deck with the various yellow caution highlights.
 
 
 
Now back to adding more details.

HMHS Letitia enters harbour during WW2 later renamed Captain Cook. I did a previous painting of her as such
W/C 10" X 7"
 

I just wanted to inform you guys that the cross section drafting has begun.  Plans from David Antscherl are scanned and drafting has begun.  I am very thankful to David Antscherl and Greg Herbert for allowing me to use their plans and expertise for this project.  I felt compelled to post this today because of a topic I read on another forum.  I think it would be very important to point out the stark differences in how some kit companies approach projects like this.
 
When completed this will be a project that is 98% duplicated from David's plans and research.  Having said this, I will be drawing up a completely new set of plans that will NOT be a Xeroxed copy of David's work.  I will indeed need to make minor adjustments to facilitate the kit-making process as well as add some new features to make building the cross section easier.  The plan sheets will be laid out very differently. But make no mistake about it....this is a duplication of David's plans and work.  Even though I have digitized David's plans and have begun duplicating them (tracing) with minor differences....even major ones.  This is a duplication and a full-on use of his work.  The difference being, I will.... and have acknowledged David's role and Greg's and will be giving them full credits and acknowledgement throughout the project.  In addition,  there will be financial compensation for all of the wonderful work that they did which will save me a huge amount of time and allow me to create something worthwhile. This is how such a partnership should work.  Its about recognition and compensation. To someone uninformed they might be under the mistaken impression that this was not a duplication of the Admiralty Models Pegasus plans and research, at least based on what my finished plans might eventually look like.
 
This is in stark contrast with a recent kit currently on the market for an Ancre French frigate.  I was startled to read today a forum topic elsewhere trying to rationalize a theft which is very disingenuous to say the least.  Anyone well informed with a minor amount of expertise can compare the plans by Ancre and the pirating kit company to see that they are in fact a duplication.  Finding minor differences is NOT an indication that the kit is not a duplication.  The comparison for anyone who wants to be truthful about it is very very clear.  In addition,  there is zero acknowledgement and zero compensation for the work Ancre had done and for its clear and apparent copying.  You will not see a 100% photo copy of the plans and it doesnt need to be in order to be honestly and rightfully acknowledged as a pirated duplication.  But if you are of the ilk that really.... really wants to believe that, and are looking for some sort of rationalization,  then that is what you will determine.  It is quite a disturbing, uninformed and very childlike interpretation.   
 
Once again, Thank You to David and Greg for allowing me to bring such a project to market so that other will have an opportunity to build this cross section.  I can sleep soundly each night knowing that this is the correct way to enter into such a projects development.  You guys are the best!!!

Hi Frank
 
I still can't quite get over the difference in the quality of your machined parts when compared to the cast winder from the Willie Bennett kit.
 
Mmmm...now, that's quality for you.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick 

Hull planking is progressing smoothly now. I've begun working on the starboard side now that I can use the port side as a frame of reference (and guide to what to do better). There are still some imperfect areas, but nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of filler and sanding. I do have a decision to make and am curious if anyone has input. Here's the current state of the (further-along) port bow and stern:


On these wide, flat boats I just don't see how the entire hull's planking can be condensed into the bow and stern. It works for sailing ships with more rounded, well-proportioned hulls, but in this case I'd have to shrink each strake to paper-thin to fit them all in. Up until now, it's been most sensible to curve each strake along the flow of the hull, meeting the centerline at an angle at the bow and pinching together at the stern. This stern pattern matches what I can see of the preserved stern (roughly) and the bow pattern matches the few photos I can find showing nothing but smooth, parallel planking at the bow of such boats.
 
However, I'll need to drop some planks pretty soon because it can't keep going like this. The question is, do I run the remaining planks (a) in a continuing set of curves (as before) so that each end is cut to butt up against the centerline, or (b) parallel to the centerline so that each plank is cut to butt against the last curved strake? In the photos above, I've laid loose planks out in both rough configurations to illustrate what I mean.
 
My inclination is (b), which matches what Kurt showed earlier in this log for the bottom planking of Chaperon, the only accurate wooden steamboat kit I know of (Kurt, is it ok if I repost this here for clarity?). Note that on Chaperon, the planking stayed curved until the flat bottom was reached; I followed the same pattern on my model as it makes the most sense. Thus I'm ready to make this transition at the bow and not quite ready at the stern. Chaperon doesn't inform the stern question as sternwheelers had much simpler sterns than sidewheelers.  Anyway, that's where the model stands. I'm going to keep filling in the starboard side, hoping to do a slightly cleaner job as I consider this the intended display side (the reason I started on the port side). But I'd like to decide how to proceed on the bottom. Thanks for reading!
 
 

I used a marking gauge to locate the depth of 1/16" for the bearding line depth.  Work quite well.


 
 
 
Luckily the bearding line was already marked on the hull.  Just a matter of making some cuts.

 
Got a little too aggressive with the scalpel.  Kinda went a little too deep in a couple of spots.

 
I decided to apply a bit of wood filler to build the area back up again.  Once dried, I will carefully sand away the wood filler to the required depth.

The serving is put on in the opposite lay of the rope.  I started where the tail is and moved to the left with the serving coming over the top of the rope.

Reasonably good color match.
Maury
 

Small point (which may be unimportant to you!): If you serve in the opposite direction to the 'lay' of the rope, the result will be smoother in appearance. The example above seems to be served in the same direction. That's a serious looking machine you have there for the job, Maury!

Druxey, It is important for me and the serving is laid in the opposite direction as the lay of the rope.  Hard to tell in the photo.  Thanks for the comments.
M

Forestay served and seized at the top.  I think that may be the last of the serving. 

Next up is seizing the shrouds onto themselves through the bulls eyes.
Maury

Sorry if I misinterpreted your photo, Maurys. I'll shut up now and slink away!

Druxey,   PLEASE Don't.  Every comment you make is taken to heart.  Lots of difficulty interpreting photos.  Less than perfect focus and optical illusions abound.
 
Maury

While giving my eyes a rest from serving, I installed the chain plates for the running back stays.
 

The wales got a bit skuffed up.

The issue of where to set the shrouds and back stays has been around since the beginning.  The original drawings shows the shrouds outboard, but that would not be reasonable because they would bind and crush the rails.  Other sources cite reasons for them being inboard.  Secondary source (Grimwood) shows the rigging as he interpreted it but plenty of errors on his drawings.  There is very little binding for the running back stays because of the angles to the tops.
Maury
 

Shrouds are installed and siezed.

The aft shroud is served all the way.  The ends of the shrouds and the lashings have not been trimmed.  The upper lashings were all tied at the height of the upper rail.  In the picture they seem to vary too much but the photo was taken at an angle.  I think the fifth shroud (from the left) is a bit looser than the others and needs tightening up a bit.
Maury

I clamped a stick along the shrouds and lashed the top row along that guide.

Looks much better and there is still some cleanup to do.

The ends of the shrouds were trimmed off and dabbed with a touch of anti-fraying liquid. 
Maury

Neatly done, Maurys. "Anti-fraying liquid"? Is this a secret formula concocted in your laboratory?

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 262 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Truss
 
When a double topsail (or double topgallant sail) arrangement was adopted, the lower yard position on the mast was fixed, and therefore this sail was not reefed.  Any reduction in overall topsail area was done by taking in the upper topsail.  Under the Howe patent, the arrangement most likely followed when Young America adopted double topsails in 1854, the lower yard was supported from the forward end of the lower mast cap by means of an iron truss that allowed the yard to rotate in two planes like the lower fore yard below.
 
The first picture shows the installed sling band with a double bracket that will fit over a shaft on the truss itself.
 

 
The band is pinned through the yard and the underside drilled for the sheet block eyebolt.  The band is octagonal, made from .010" (about ¾" at 1:72) copper sheet.  The band was soldered first.  A U-shaped bracket was then formed from .015" copper, and drilled to accept the truss shaft.  Both parts are shown in the next picture.
 
 
The u-shape was used to assure that the bracket holes would line up after assembly.  The joining top piece will be removed later.  The next picture shows the two pieces being set up for soldering.
 

 
After soldering, the assembly was set up in the vise as shown below to file off the end of the U and shape the brackets as shown in the last photo below.
 

 
The U was formed over a wood block that was kept in place when the bracket holes were drilled.  In the above picture a small piece of this block is inserted to allow the bracket to be clamped for filling.
 
The truss itself is shown in the next few pictures.  To start, two pieces of telescoping tube were soldered together then soldered to the top of a copper block that will be shaped to the truss configuration.  Using tube avoids drilling aligned holes and assured a match with the hole in the mast cap boss.  This initial assembly is being marked in the first picture.
 
 
The truss was then cut and filed to its overall shape shown in the next picture where it has been temporarily mounted to check fit.
 

 
In the next picture the truss shaft is being filed round..
 
 
In the picture the 5" shaft is being rounded from a sized square, to an octagon to a round – as was done in making the spars.  In the last picture, the full truss assembly is temporarily mounted with the yard.
 

 
The forward end of the truss shaft will be fitted with a retaining cap and cut off.  This will be done later after the other yard ironwork is fitted.  All will then be blackened and the yard given some finish as was done before.
 
You may note in this picture that the ratline work on the topmast is still in progress.
 
Ed

Here are some pictures of the framing that has now been faired using medium grit paper and emery boards.
A lot of care needs to be taken to not break any of the frames and the tiny tabs that hold them together, and even then I had a few whoops moments.
 
Ben

Part 48 – Kathryn’s Dredge Winder
 
At the end of the last post I mentioned that I needed to do some experimenting to determine how to make shackles that are used during the rigging.  I did do some experimenting, and I think I have a workable approach, but there’s other work (lots of it!) that needs to be done before rigging can be started.
 
The dredge winders occupy a key position on Kathryn’s deck and are fairly complex, so I decided to make them next.
 
The HAER drawings have a couple of good views of the winders, and I do have some photos I took during my visit to Kathryn last October.  The book ‘Working Skipjacks of Deal Island’ also has some good views of Kathryn’s winders in use.
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
The wheels at the rear of the winder assembly are geared and are driven by a small drive gear.  The first step was to mill a piece of ¾” brass rod to the proper diameter and to face the rod.  This work was done on the lathe. 
 
                        
 
The 3-jaw chuck with the work piece was moved to the rotary table that was set up vertically on the milling machine.
 
A small bit with a diamond disk was mounted using a collet, and was used to cut a small line (.015” deep) every 5 degrees on the surface of the workpiece.  This simulated the gears on the wheel.
 
                        
 
The rotary table was returned to the horizontal position and a #67 drill was used to drill 16 simulated bolt holes around the perimeter of the wheel.
 
                        
 
The workpiece was returned to the lathe and the small step around the perimeter of the wheel was shaped.
 
                        
 
The shaft hole in the center of the wheel was drilled using a center drill followed by a succession of small drills until the hole was finished at 1/8”.
 

 
A groove approximately 1/16” deep was cut in the perimeter of the wheel stock at the appropriate distance from the face of the wheel.  This groove was used to guide the jewelers saw that was used to part off the wheel.
 
                        
 
The geared stock was used to make the second wheel following the same process.
 
                        
 
The drive gear was made the same way as the geared wheels.  A rod was held in the tailstock chuck and through the body of the drive gear to prevent it from getting lost once it was parted off.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This completed the gearing on the winder.
 
                        
 
The front wheels of the winder are smaller than the geared wheels, and have holes cut in a slanted front surface.  This slanted surface was made by turning the headstock of the lathe 20 degrees and then facing the end of the stock.
 
                        
 
The center of the wheel was flattened, and then the workpiece and chuck were installed on the rotary table.  The 6 holes were cut using a 7/32 end mill every 30 degrees.
 
                        
 
A slight indent was cut into the perimeter of the wheel and the wheel was then parted off.  A second wheel was made following the same process.
 
                        
 
Cast winder wheels from a Willie Bennett kit were used as a model during the construction process.
 
                        
 
                        
 
With the two sets of wheels and axles completed, the supporting structures will be built next.
 
As with most of my modeling work, there was a lot of trial and error in the learning process for making these wheel sets.  I thought it would be interesting to show the amount of swarf created during that process - ugh!.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!

On their way to the Falklands
Jim 

Another one of Belfast, about to call in at Gibraltar for a last run ashore before returning to the UK
 
jim

I finished this kit tonight.  It was enjoyable and I learned a lot along the way.  It's a relatively straight forward kit with no major challenges.  It was a good side diversion.