Jack12477

Hi Ed and Druxey,
 
Thanks for your follow up to my glue question.  I will keep trying...  Ed, I think you are right about the binding agent.  This is exactly what I think happened.
 
Back to building. I have done some (more like a lot of) rework on the Naiad - I was not a fan of the knee of head and a few other areas, so I went back and redid all of this, ok, everything...  It caused a lot of pain and as you can imagine, I was not motivated to take photos, but in the end, I am very satisfied with the outcome and the decision.  Hey, if I am going to stare at this project for the next four years, its got to be pleasing to my eye.
 
The biggest issue was that I had drastically undercut the bow and made the entry much too fine.  I tried to overcome this as I placed the forward cant frames, but simply found that it altered the beam of the ship drastically.  So over I started. Needless to say, there was a day of depression...
 
33 hours later, here we are with a new keel, stern deadwood and head of knee.  I find that I am much smarter the second time around. 
 

 
Some lessons I have learned on this build:
 
1. Chisel instead of #11 blade (too late for my left index finger...)
2. File instead of sanding stick
3. Razor blade instead of sandpaper
4. Micrometer that measures thousandths, not hundredths
5. Successive pieces glued together have a cumulative affect on the size of the subassembly.  Constantly refer back to the plans and templates - adjust accordingly.
6. Keep a "Ships Daily Log".  Even if there are doldrums, record in it each day.  Hey, they had to do it at sea, so why not do it at home??? 
7. Don't final sand or final shape a piece during the subassembly phase.  The risk of undercutting or misshapaing is significant. By waiting to do this, it will help to bring the entire project together as one.  
 
Next up is the infamous Bollard Timbers and stem rabbet...
 
Wish me luck. G
 
 
 
 

Druxey,
 
Fascinating and beautiful.  Are the two clamps shown in the picture sufficient to hold the frames' shapes?  Are these bent "dry" or are you bending them with heat or another method?
 
Ed

Thank you, one and all. The frames butt to the keelson in the model, Joel. It might, in hindsight, have been easier to notch the keelson to locate the floor ends. I'll include a rule in the next batch of photos, Chuck.

I can't express fully how much I admire your work on this. At such a small scale too! Magnificent.

Sorry, Chuck.  He lost his 2 inch ruler.
 
druxey, what is going on under the keelson?  Are there notches for the frames, do they pass under the keelson or do they butt into it?

Carl, I like that first boat

I have that exact set - the hook and angled/bent point are useful for getting line under and around a belaying pin.  I also find the bent point useful for holding a line down while I wrapped it around something and also till the glue sets up a bit. They are long enough to reach into the deck area thru the rigging and getting into tight spots.
 
You can also use ordinary crochet hooks for a lot of rigging - get the smaller size ones, example US #5 or #7. I use the ones show above a lot as well as the crochet hooks. Or as others say - make your own.

Thanks Popeye - I did hand sew a bunch of sails for the Bluenose II I did for a friend so yes I have gotten over the learning curve.  I am looking for already dyed cloth thin enough for sails, this is my preferred choice  - dyeing is my back-up plan - I also want to leave the kit supplied sails untouched in case I need them as replacements later - I may try my hand at machine sewing. 
 
Haven't got a Hobby Lobby close by - have to see where the nearest one is and maybe do a road trip.
 
Thanks for looking in.

Carl, I like that first boat

I have that exact set - the hook and angled/bent point are useful for getting line under and around a belaying pin.  I also find the bent point useful for holding a line down while I wrapped it around something and also till the glue sets up a bit. They are long enough to reach into the deck area thru the rigging and getting into tight spots.
 
You can also use ordinary crochet hooks for a lot of rigging - get the smaller size ones, example US #5 or #7. I use the ones show above a lot as well as the crochet hooks. Or as others say - make your own.

Carl, I like that first boat

Looking very nice - also great tutorial - thanks for sharing it - Hull plates look really great.

Looking very nice - also great tutorial - thanks for sharing it - Hull plates look really great.

Carl, I like that first boat

Fantastic, Alberto.  Simply fantastic.
 
Ed

...with deep respect! "My god thats seamanship"

Another photos
 

 

 

 

 

Absolutely beautiful workmanship, I look forward to the next update.
 
Michael

That is looking so nice.  Very clean and precise.  Can you place a ruler along side for a better grasp at just how large this model is?
 
Thanks 
 
Chuck

Started bending in the frames today. They are spaced at 18" intervals and, as previously mentioned, are ¾" square. In the real boat, there were floors and futtocks united by a side overlap. However, as this will be completely invisible in the finished boat, I will omit this detail.
 
As I have other work on hand, the next update will be a few days away.

I just climbed aboard, this is a fascinating project, Druxey!  it's nice to see you working on something that is an actual challenge for you, and truly wonderful to see your masterful execution!

Druxey, you are now pushing the bar very high indeed. I can see that I am going to need to sort out a small saw of some kind.
 
Michael

Hi Druxey,
 
I don't know HOW I've missed seeing this build up until now - excellent work, as is to be expected from one of the real masters of this hobby . I'll be checking in more frequently now .
 
I've used the same techniques when building my last two ship's boats (Vulture's and Supply's), and also the Longboat in the Bottle I built recently, all with good success, but nowhere near to the accuracy and execution of yours.
 
  Danny

Carl, I like that first boat

Next is to cut stock a scale ¾" square. This is next to impossible without a zero-clearance table and a slitting saw blade. So I made an insert of aluminum sheet and raised the saw blade through this, as shown (upper left). Note that, on this saw, I have an Accuriser II fence. I attached a secondary scale measuring in inches at 1/48 scale. This avoids having to translate from thousandths of an inch (actual) to scale inches.
 
I cut several sheets of 1/64" Castello stock and rubber cemented them to a sacrificial piece of softwood. In this case it was simply a paint stir-stick (upper right). This was then run through the saw and the pieces separated and cleaned up, giving the 1/64" square section required for the frames (below).