Jack12477

I have attached the garboard planks.  If the speed at which I installed these was an indicator as to my speed on this build in general, I'd say if I work on it daily, I'll be done some time in 2019. 
 
I looked through every single Longboat build log at other modelers successes and mistakes when shaping, bending and gluing the garboard planks.  I also printed Chuck's photo of the bottom of his Longboat showing a good view of the garboard plank.  I feel I got the shape as good as I can get it, and I'm happy with the way it mounted cleanly into the rabbet.
 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I know what you mean about that Mark. I do the same thing when just picking up lumber, usually,   unless I have power-tools on my mind.  

Thanks for the comments and support.
 
 
 
Sam,
I can't answer that about sealing the ports and how well it worked.  The French frigates didn't have lids on the gundeck as it was exposed in the waist.  They use bucklers insead (a one or two piece scheme of a lid fitted to the outside and then secured from the inside. 
 
 
Tom
Short answer.. they stay full width or should.  However, for eye appeal, I probably should taper maybe a 32nd of an inch...  I'll give that some thought when I start laying planks again. The bigger issue is that if I taper them, I'll have to use some stealers at the stern.  Right now, still shaping things.  I do need to make a Lowe's trip for a profile/contour gauge to duplicate this work to the other side.  Better leave the CC at home and only take cash for this run....

Thanks Mark and Marc.
 
There is an interesting thing I was thinking of. If you succeeded in something miniature, on some way, to me it seems that, success in some way pin you down to keep that line of detailing. It does not matter that you need a magnifier to see something. I thing that "invisible" details gives something special in whole picture on the similar way as high range of frequencies gives special feeling to music you listen 
 
Usual Saturday ... garden work at morning and after lunch fight with Yuka, and after that, nice time in shipyard at the evening
 
First decided to finish right cat-head with whisker boom  - complete done. I decided to put on it all possible shackle I am able to make, so, I started to play with beats ( brass wire 0,5 mm in 0,5 mm holes cemented with CA and covered with black acrylic

First - whisker. Two angles ( to up and to the back) are presented, and I tried to follow angles on C-plans
 
Temporary in place
 

 
And a details of connection.
 

 
Then .... uh how small are this ... very hard to control them ... making 
Dry testing
 

 
It can not pass through the hole I made, so it have to be mounted later
 
And then I decided to try one nice detail, which is, I suppose, necessary for proper rigging of bowsprit ( on C-plans called "Eyebair for Fore Tuck")
 

 
Little improvisation ( wire goes through sheave) and here we are. here are cleat, pins on both side of cat-head, and "cat-stopper" (?)
 
Uh, oh, ah, it seems I forgot to extend "cat-stopper" through bullwark to the outside on the fore surface of cat ... something to do next time, but it will be difficult, considering everything is cemented
 

 
Ok, cathead is cemented on place, and there is time to put beats/beasts on their place. There is something in C-plans called "Iron horn", but there simply has no place for it, considering whiskers are a bit over-scale thick
 

 
Hmmm ... little overscaled, but I can live with this
 
And after painting
 

 
And whole look of cat head with mounted whiskers boom
 

 
 
 
Edit: previewing post I noticed that I mixed pictures and text, but, i think you get a point. One of this days I ll edit this post properly. To late now 

After four previous attempts I can say that I'm now happy with the way these fashion pieces look.
 
The first photo shows were the counter has more curve at the bottom compared to the template. I was trying to shape the fashion pieces to follow the curve of the counter. This resulted in the pieces being too wide and misshaped. It might not look like much but trying to cover this area of the counter with the fashion pieces changes everything.
 

 
The solution was to shape the fashion piece correctly and sand the counter, if necessary, to blend into the shape of the fashion piece. To be honest, very little sanding was necessary which really surprised me. In addition, it wasn't necessary to force the bottom of the fashion piece to a more pronounced curve like I had to before. Once installed they were sanded down to roughly 3/64" in thickness. Now the pieces have a gentle curve and a more delicate shape overall.
 

 

Hmm, no wonder things are off, the plywood for the bulkheads are exactly 1/4" thick!

I am about to do the thwarts, but am confused as the material list and instructions mentioning 1/8" while the plans measure them at 6/32" and the mast thwart is mentioned at 3/16" while plan measure 1/4". Should I go with the size from the plans and order new strips? Anyone with same problem? The scale on plan has been triple checked both by me and Admiral and coming up with same measurements.

And while you are in the folder/desktop where your pictures are, hold down the CTRL key and while holding it down CLICK on each photo you want to upload, when you've finishes selecting all your photos then click OPEN and ATTACH and follow George's instructions above

Hi Ken, I have your book also - no prior soldering experience unless you count soldering a couple wires to an N-scale model RR track - been reading it over. Had same question as George about heat sinks.
 
Love your cannons and carronades - really nice results.

And while you are in the folder/desktop where your pictures are, hold down the CTRL key and while holding it down CLICK on each photo you want to upload, when you've finishes selecting all your photos then click OPEN and ATTACH and follow George's instructions above

You're lucky with finding the cleat Robb.  Usually they end up in another dimension never to be seen again. 
Ok---At the bottom, right next to your "Post" button is the "More reply Options" button. Before you start with your post click that, then at the bottom, notice the "choose file" button. Click that and go to your desktop, or navigate to wherever your pictures are located on your computer, and click "open", then "Attatch This File". That will locate a small thumbnail of the pic right there with a "Add to Post" or delete option.  Relocate your cursor where you want the pic and click the "Add to Post".
 
Cheers 

yea.......sorry Sam........I really don't want it to glow like a ghost ship......    but that would really send out an eerie message now,  wouldn't it 
 
the fascia problem is solved.......I just hope those parts I used were truly extra pieces.   I finally cemented the first pair of cranes in place.......glued in the fascia in place as well.
 

 

 
then all of the life boat cradles were painted white,  on the boat deck.   later I'll go back and touch them up.
 

 
the stern section got the mizzen mast rigging glued in ahead of time
 

 
I started to work on the boat deck structures at this point.  still need to cement in the rigging for the funnels,  and then the A deck and boat deck can be cemented together.  duct work was painted flat white..........the grating grids were then dry brushed with the paint I mixed for the hull........just to soot things up a bit.
 

 
these four ducts are located at the first and second funnel
 

 
finally I got back to the bow section,  and cemented in the fore castle railing
 

 

 
so now it's the boat deck....there's a lot to do here 
 
 

Actually George, this was not needle-work but glue that I used. 
My fingers are just not good enough to do the stitching, so I resorted to using Titebond.
The picture below shows the back side with the glue just on the machine stitched ends.

Having done that, I now know that the hammock is too long (good for a guy 6'4", but not your typical sailor).
So, the next series I'll try will be with an edged strip of fabric that is narrower. 
Again, however, the overall length has to fit the beams

thanks John.......I was stuck for a word as to what they were called.   apparently some manufacturers don't even know that. 
 
thank you for your kind comments and likes...you all are so kind with my clumsy attempt at a plastic model.  if anyone hasn't clicked on the link to see Doris's build of the Academy Titanic,  I strongly suggest that you do.   there may be a language barrier,  but the pictures speak completely for themselves.  she has the kit with the photo etch and wooden deck and her process and work on this model is exquisite.   it's very hard to see all the detail from the picture she posted of her.  bravo Doris.........I was speechless with the level of modeling you put into this build..........absolutely stunning!   
 
I did a few bits on her yesterday .........not a whole lot.   the two decks are cemented together now,  and I attempted to do the window detail on the forward skylight / hold......it covers a domed skylight.   I must say........I couldn't have botched it up,  in any finer fashion.  to make matters worse,  I think I scratched the window aspect in the process of trying to remove the tape I had cut,  in the effort to mask it.  so it's off to removing the paint and starting over.......I just hope I didn't scratch the 'glass to badly.   to me,  aside from the chrome,  this is probably the second bad point about this kit...molding parts in clear plastic.
    if they were to do it,  I would have imagined that some,  if not all of the windows,  would have had clear glass inserts..........odd that the skylights would be the only place where clear 'glass' would be seen,  considering how many windows are on this model.   I hope to post some sort of an update,  since this is the last day of my vacation.   back to the grind,  I suppose...............but,  I'll be plotting my next vacation.   I still have enough time accumulated for 1 more 

A bold move Mark and certainly worth the effort. I always fear such redo's but I know if I don't it wil bother me for years to come.
 
Remco

Thanks much for the link Ken! 

Ken, thanks for the link - will look into it. Also the explanation on heat sinks.

George, here is a link you should save for tools , etc. but this is the soldering boards that I use rather than a tile.
 
Jack the need for heat sinks is based upon the proximity of other joints to be protected and so far I have really not had a need for them. When I think there might be an issue I may use a lower temperature solder like 50/50.
 
The site below you may wish to explore for tools as well.  
 
http://www.ottofrei.com/Solderite-Soldering-Board-Hard-Compound.html

I'm hoping for opinions..  and fear not, I can take critique... 
 
I've sanded and shaped quite a bit on the last cant frame and the transoms.   Is this better?  Does it need more work?
I removed 5 planks, the 3 now installed are only tacked into place and will need beveling, etc.   But I wanted to get an opinion.  I'm thinking they look 100% better, but not sure how "accurate" it is.  Do I need more work on this area?
 
I managed to sort out what my references show (unfortunately, no planking expansion but that's to be expected) for plank that's now wrapped around a bit.  Which what the references seem to show.
 
Thanks in advance.  
 

It looks more pleasing to my eye also but I'll defer to Cog and Augie.

Hi Ken, I have your book also - no prior soldering experience unless you count soldering a couple wires to an N-scale model RR track - been reading it over. Had same question as George about heat sinks.
 
Love your cannons and carronades - really nice results.

Just wanted to post a small update that took a lot of trial and error to get halfway right. The result, seen here, is the first of the two fashion pieces.
 

 

George, the closest I have come is using yellow ochre to prevent solder flow; but it also works to a limited degree as a heat sink. Sometimes parts will be clamped together for soldering and clamps also function as heat sinks. But in general I have not set out to use a heat sink or heat sink putty.

Gotcha! I asked because there was a discussion about it here a while back, and I wondered if you had used them before. Do you think a ceramic tile would be good enough to use as a base for soldering small parts? 

George, yes as long as it is a high fired glaze, not a Terra Cotta one. Micro Mark offers a soldering surface that you can even pin into.