Jack12477

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 96 – Planksheer continued
 
In the first picture the starboard planksheer rail is being fitted at the bow.
 

 
Pins were needed here to hold the position when clamping due to the outward flare of the sides.  This part of the rail also had to be beveled on the back side to keep the top face level.
 
In the next picture the inside rail on the port side is being glued.
 

 
While the glue on that rail was drying the starboard outer rail was glued. 
 

 
As you can see it was all hands on deck for the clamps.  Anything that resembled a clamp was drafted into service to keep every part of the rail tight to the side.  The next picture is a close-up of the forward rail on the starboard side.
 

 
In the next picture a dummy bowsprit has been fitted and planking has begun above the rail on this side.
 

 
I am using hard maple for the external planking.  It will be painted.  The last picture shows the port side ready for the outer rail.  The inner rails and spacers between top-timbers are now completely installed on both sides.
 

 
Getting these rails finished – including around the elliptical stern – and planking up to the main rail is the next order of business.
 
Ed

I spent a little more time with the Longboat last night.
 
I decided on the height of the pedestals:  2.5".  I made this determination in a highly scientific manner.  I raised the model above the base -- with a ruler next to it -- until I liked how it looked.
 
So here's how it all worked out:
 

 
I deviated from the instructions a little bit by making the chainplates before I stepped the mast.  I followed the instructions pretty closely, except that I soldered everything rather than use CA glue.
 
Here's the super-complex jig, a brass nail with the head cut off.  You can see the scorch marks from the soldering iron and the measuring line to show where to bend the wire.
 

 
And here's a chainplate being made.  The in-process one is below the finished one to show how it all works out.
 

 
These are little things...
 

 
Here are all four.  They still need to be painted.
 

 
And then I stepped the mast.  It took a couple of attempts to get the mast step to look right.   I think this is pretty close.  Tonight I'm going to do a little more beveling on it.  It looks a little too blocky to me as it is.
 
I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the mast and a hole through the mast step.  I ran a wire through the mast step and into the bottom of the mast, giving me a little spike on the bottom of the whole assembly that helped me line everything up.  The mark made by the wire showed me where to drill the hole and step the mast.
 

 
And here's how the boat looks now.
 

 
The gaff and boom are completed.  I need to make the other two chainplates and then start rigging.  Also have to get a base for the case made.
 
Coming right along!
 
 
 
 
Dan
 
 

Jack, stem to stern she is about 44".
 
Ed

Si, thanks for the kind words, Denis I like your new avatar, The song "Imagine" is my favourite song of the last century.
 
I started working on the crankcase it is cut from a block of brass that a friend gave me, it was given to him by somebody who melted down a bunch of odd bits of brass. it is hard and fine grained. The block was about 5 inches long and 3 wide and about 1 3/8 thick looked like it was cast in a mini bread pan. The brass cut nicely in the cut off saw.
 

 
This is the progress on the flats that will slot unto the crankcase hole. this will ensure that the sleeves remain seated, this is because I am not familiar with the differential expansion of the brass and stainless when the engine warms up. I doubt that there will be any problems so this is just to keep my mind at ease.
 

 
Michael

Thanks everyone for stopping by and for all the likes, it is very motivating.
 
I have been out of the shop since Thursday evening I went to Calgary to visit my grandsons and play "electric trains"
 
Today I did a little more work on the water jacket, I finished shaping the insert for the bottom of the jacket sweated it in place and bored the holes for the sleeves.
 
Also did some shaping of the top part of the cylinders. after making a second milling cutter for the curves on the top.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The stainless sleeves are reamed and fitted, they are a press fit.
 

 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 95 – Main Deck Ledges, Planksheer
 
The first picture shows the last of the work on the main deck ledges.
 

 
The seats for the last row of ledges have been cut into the carlings and outside lodging knees.  The next picture shows the completed main deck framing.
 
 

 
The planksheer was the next order of business.  This rail caps and seals off the tops of the frames at the weather deck - the main deck.  On the outside it defines the sheer line of the ship.  Internally it rests on the 11” deep main deck waterway.  It would seem to make sense to install the waterways first, but to facilitate painting I decided to install the planksheer then slip the waterway underneath it later.  In the next picture a strip of pine representing the waterway is being used to check the height of the upper futtocks prior to setting the planksheer.
 

 
The cutoff heights of the upper futtocks were checked earlier and trimmed to match the lower edge of the planksheer rail.  However, since the heights of the deck beams at the side evolved somewhat independently when the deck clamps were set, there was certainly room for discrepancies.  After a fair amount of measuring, remeasuring and some adjustments, the first section of rail was ready to be installed.  This is shown below.
 

 
The 6" rail is a molded section with three beads.  The lower two are half the diameter of the upper.  The rail was formed with a simple scraper.  The real planksheer was installed in one of two ways.  It could be mortised to fit over the toptimbers or it could be made in two halves each notched to fit around the toptimbers from either side.  To avoid all of this precision notching or mortising, I install the rail on one side, then fit blocks between the timbers, and then fit the opposite side – trying to make the joints relatively invisible.  This will all be painted so there is no issue in this case.  The next picture shows some blocks installed between frames.
 

 
These also strengthen the joint between the frames and the inner rail.  After the glue had dried these were sanded flush to the side.  The tops were filed off horizontal and flush with the top of the inside rail. 
The next picture shows part of the starboard planksheer at this stage.
 

 
The last step is to install and finish off the exterior rail as shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is a similar rail a few feet up – the main rail – and then another capping rail – the fancy rail – fitted to the tops of the toptimbers.
 
 
Ed

While I'm making deadeyes, chain plates and siezings....I installed the ship's bell. It's eight bells now, so I have to run.

Hello, some pictures of the magazine Naiad and the figurehead, the whole is yet to be finished and secure.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost forgot.....looking for some second opinions.   I am thinking about painting the lower counter and leaving the transom natural.  Like the Surly contemporary model.  What do you think?   Maybe blue....but not this bright.   Is it too much?  Maybe leave it all natural back there?
 
You will also note how the Surly had the bulwarks cut down which is why the transom is a funky shape.  This was done during a refit long after the Cheerful was already gone.  Cheerful didnt last too long.   Maybe I will switch and call her the Surly....I am not feeling too cheerful today..
 
Chuck
 

 

Got the counter and the transom planked.  You may notice that I thinned down the outside stern frames considerably before planking the stern.  The first photo shows how thick they were before it was planked.  After the sides of the hull were planked the outside stern frames were strong enough to handle the thinning down.  It makes the model more historically correct.  The inboard side of the stern and counter will not be planked so I wanted to make sure it looked as authentic as possible.  That of course means that I must really clean up the inboard side between the stern frames carefully to prepare it for painting.   I will fill any cracks and sand it smooth and do lots of surface prep.
 
Now I can have some fun.  Its time to put the fashion pieces on and the wales and fancy trim.  This is the step that will make it really come together.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

And the sheet anchor.  The chain and spliced line to support the anchor shaft and on the right, the line for lashing the stock.
 

 
The sheet anchor lashed in place.
 

 
And on to the next challenge.  Cheers, Gil

It is easy to criticize something like this. As mentioned the people who buy this sort of thing are as has been stated likely just buying a piece of "decoration" As "offensive" this might be to some, think about the implications for the "craftsmen" who are making this stuff. (How different is this from the rather garish decorations that adorn a great number of houses every Christmas, the fake trees that can cost up to a thousand dollars? ) for them it is a way to put bread on the table, to feed themselves or family, some of them might even enjoy doing this work. I would imagine that it beats sitting on an assembly line installing "x" in an I phone or some other piece of disposable electronic junk (think again of all the stuff filling the toy shelves every Christmas).
 
I would not be too quick to be so judgmental of these things, just my two cents worth, and for those who are engaged in the production of this stuff they probably need the two cents more than I do.
 
Happy new year to all.
 
Michael

The planking above the wales is basically completed.  Just a few more planks to add on the port side as you can see.  I didnt bother simulating the caulking between the seams where it wont show.  So it looks a bit weird now.  But once the molding and second layer of the wales is added it will look fine.
 
You can only see a few places with a crisp line for the seams.  This was done by running a number two pencil down one plank edge.  If I did this on both plank edges it would have been too pronounced for my tastes.
 
I will plank the transom and counter next at the stern.  Its an interesting detail that in case of a cutter like this you dont plank the stern counter first.   The transom and counter are planked after the sides of the hull.   The exposed end-grain of the counter planking and transom planking will be protected from the elements and rot by the fashion pieces.   You can see them in the profile drawing.  So you will not see any of the end grain from the planking.  The frame for the square tuck also does this for the end grain of the planks.  Its an interesting feature and I almost forgot NOT to plank the counter first.  It is something I am so accustomed to doing.
 
Before I plank the stern transom and counter I have some shaping of the outer stern frames to do.  I will post pictures of this as well because its an important feature to keeping the finished model looking accurate.  So far its coming together quite well without any real issues.  Its a fun build so far.  You can start to see the final shape of the cutter come to life as the planking progresses.  I know the bulwarks look thick at this point but they will actually be thinned down quite a bit soon.  The outboard and inboard planking at the sheer was actually just 1 1/2" thick....once its planked inboard and out the final width will be just 1/8 - 5/32" thick at the most.   Closer to 1/8" thick I hope.
 

 

 

Battle of the Stern - Opening Salvos
 
Reread the plans at least 10 times and compared them to the salvaged stern section from V 1.0...  realized I can do a lot better and also figured out where the errors crept in.  Then reviewed Hahn's article from the NRJ on her.  The pictures were unclear and perhaps I missed something first time through.  So... scanned the article and adjusted the pics... yep.  whiffed it.  Scan of a a scan of a printed magazine with retouched photos...  <hangs head since he knows better>
 
So, I started with some deconstruction by removing the stern post.  That done, took some basswood and worked on the filler piece.  The pics seem to show one curve (which I used for V 1.0) and plans show a different curve.  Originally, I figured Hahn found something and did the filler differently then the drawing and I followed that.  Wrong!!!!  It was the pic. I followed the drawing this time.  Much happier.
 
Also, worked on the first transom frame.  A lot happier even though it took the second try to get it right.  
 
These are "rough faired" for now.  I'll go back and finish shaping when the second transom is installed.
 

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

OK, time to have some fun.
 
Mass production of the gun carraiges has begun.  Like the guns themselves, the carraige sides also grow on trees:
 

 
Chuck's carraiges embody quite a few parts.  Here are a few ready to go:
 

 
 
Before things get too far down the road (I don't like surprises), I decided to more or less complete one 12 pounder to check that everything was going to fall into place.  Besides, I have some extra cannon so gun #1 was done to serve as the prototype.  It will not be appearing on the model.  Here are a few angles:
 

 

 

 
I'm happy to report that she fits nicely into the gun ports from a height and elevation standpoint so now I'm free to proceed with the next 28 !!
 
Take solace in the fact that this mini-model will not go to waste.  It's been deployed as a security measure to guard my vast collection of proof silver coins (one, at last count):
 

 
The assembly line is now in full production mode.
 
Everyone stay well ---- and WARM!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

come to think of it John........I do have a couple of pictures in the camera.   the 'warming house' has been a thought on my mind.   I had a chuckle........I thought of....of all things.......Jed Clampett's cabin,  from the TV series.   yea, I'm right on it       then I thought about ships that have  'badges' on their stern galleys.
 
I like the idea..........I would have to install bay windows on both sides.   but.......what about the transom wall?   on most contemporary ships,  these are flush mount windows........I'm thinking.........I'm thinking 
 
here is what I have so far on the Jingle Belle..............
 

 

 
I still have to create the front wall.    I hope to have more on this soon 

thanks Nils.......a very interesting way of putting it.  the Andrea Gail spin off from this build, is more of an expansion of what I've already learned.  I started bashing these kits,  from the very first one......which was an old kit to start with,  not even laser cut.  there are a lot of folks that have built from kits,  later to turn to scratch builds,  which are more challenging and thought provoking.  having built so many car models {plastic},  I saw how many spin offs one can make using a particular car body,  and wondered if this could be applied to this medium as well.  there are some kits out there,  that other ships can be made,  beside the intended subject.......some even supply the parts to do so.  it made me look at the concept of  'the kit'......which led to the parts panels,  in which to recreate other hulls.   the hull is the basis needed in which to start with.   it can then be fitted out the way you want to,  to build the ship you intend it to be.
 
the fantasy builds are nice........but the Andrea Gail pushes the envelope a bit further,  because I'm using the instruction sheets for the model,  in which to build it.  when I stood back,  after finishing the planking of the Boulogne Etaples,  the Andrea Gail was the first boat that I thought of.....in terms of the hull construction.   the only flaw was the stern......it needed to be a little longer,  and squared {not tapered}.   I was going to create another hull, making these changes,  but things being what they were....and the pull to do it being too strong,  I just took the third hull and started on it.   it's not perfect,  but I think I achieved what I set out to do
 
I think you'll like this Nils.......I've been wanting to do this for a while now.  here they are all together......the Boulogne Etaples,  the two Holiday Harbor builds,  and the Andrea Gail.   to replicate just the hull and go in the fantasy direction,  one can let their imagination go wild.  but,  to create a known ship,  the direction changes to a more focused build.  personally,  I don't think the focus changes all that much,  it's more the scope of the build.   it's bash 'n scratch at a whole new level
 

 
the Jingle Belle,  Andrea Gail,  tree boat,  and the Boulogne Etaples
 

 

 
the Boulogne Etaples.........
 

 
.....to the Andrea Gail......a dramatic change fro the original kit.
 

 
I still have a ways to go in acquiring the level that the more experienced modelers have.....I have doubts that I ever will.   I will assure you though,  that I'm having a lot of fun trying

Thanks for all the likes, and to Row ,Mark, Druxey, and Andy thank you for your kind remarks they are very encouraging.
 
Began working on the new head part today but first I needed to make a couple of tools to help with some of the tasks.
 
first one was an end mill that was .155 in diameter and with a .015 radius at the cutting edge this was to ensure that the combustion cavity had a bit of a cove rather than a sharp corner.
 

 
a test cut
 

 
 
The second one was to make a collar for the 6 x .05mm tap so that I could tap in line accurately without taking the drill chuck out. It is just a disk of 1/2 inch aluminum with a couple of grub screws at right angles I ground a couple of 1/16th flats at the threaded end of the tap then I could use the drill chuck as the guide by releasing the tap from finger tight this way the drilled hole and the tapping are able to be accomplished without moving the work.
 

 
Then a lot of fiddly settings to shape the cavities.
 

 

 

 

 

 
next comes a lot of filing to finalize the shape.
 
Michael

TAKE... ME... TO... YOUR... LEADER
 
Sorry I couldn't resist, I just showed this to Jude and she said hey it looks like a face then in a robotic voice said "take me to your leader" I laughed out loud.
 
Just a bit more fetling and then I can move on to the next piece. I need to add a couple of relive grooves so that the jacket clears the valve springs, I will use an .093" end mill. lay the block on the top face and centre the end mill over the valve guide holes and just take a whisker off down to the holes.
 
Bob thanks for your very kind comment.
 
Thanks also for all the likes.
 
Michael

Lawrence, David, Bill and Jerry,  Many thanks.  I was out of town for the past several days and just returned.
David, the acrylic case with wood strips sounds like a great idea.
Bill, I can't imagine the Victory without a case. I think it would be a dust catcher, and little hands (grandchildren and great grandchildren) would eventually find their way into the rigging.  I'll likely follow what I did for the Constitution.
 
I made a case for the "USS Constitution" of glass (tempered, so that the glass would break into tiny bits if shattered).  Brass trim was added and when the top front is lifted, the front glass sheet can be lifted out for easy access.  And finally a table was made to fit the case.  The Constitution however, was somewhat smaller than the Victory.  It's a museum.
 
The model of the Constitution without a case.
 

 
Completion of the case.
 

 
And finally the supporting table.
 

 
Cheers, Gil

Three part before it’s right? I’d hate to tell you how many parts I threw away.  But, Michael, it’s not how many parts you make but the way you make them.  It is the rounding of the top surface on the head instead of leaving the edges sharp and looking at the mounting holes on that last block and the way you shape around them.  Many would have cut straight across like the edge touching the paper.  It is that sort of shaping and detailing that make you a master modeler in metal and in wood.
 
Bob

Mistakes, or not...still absolutely amazing that you're building your own motor!!!!

Denis ,Row, Dan, Carl, thanks for looking in and for the kind words. 
 
I am beginning to wonder about this engine business.
 
The three cylinder blocks so far!
 

 
The one in the middle was the first one I was getting more dissatisfied by the hour, because the little break through into the water jacket area was nagging at me all the time. It was actually the second of the things that was bugging me and the top part had its own error I realized the oval water area was too long. also I decided that the bottom mounting lugs needed to be an integral part instead of part of a plate that was going to be fitted to the bottom somehow?
 
So I started over and was merrily milling down into the water jacket area when saw the cutter making it way down the outside of the jacket....... yup I set the cuts on the mill from the wrong side of the block after working the outside dimensions.
 
you can see the clean little slot on the one in the back, right down the middle.
 
The one in the front is version number three, according to folk lore it should be lucky.
 

 
The most tricky part was drilling the inlet and exhaust holes (still a bit gun-shy after the first mistake) I had to set the block up with a compound angle, for each hole the inlet ones on the outside and the exhaust ones in the middle. Now the hand work filing the surface shapes is under way. I also increased the size of the valve heads to .125 from .093 inches. The bore of the cylinders is reduced to 5/16 from 3/8ths in order to get more space for water circulation.
 

 
Carl in answer to your question why brass instead of iron, it is because brass is easier to work and I have the material. I have noticed that some of the engines on the engine website are brass and they seem to run fine as long as there is a steel or iron liner and an aluminum piston. this is the route that I am following.
 
Michael