Jack12477

A minor update, model wise.  A biggie for me.      The stern is more or less complete.  It still needs the carvings and the taffrail needs the finials but those are in-work and may be that way for some time as I move on to other things.   I carve while waiting for glue to dry, etc.
 
I was playing with the camera and some settings... here's the inboard side of the stern unplanked and then planked in silver maple.  I'm using the maple where things would have been white-washed.  The planked version also shows part of the taffrail installed.
 

 
From the outboard side with part taffrail installed.
 

 
This is the two other pieces of the taffrail on the scroll saw using the ScrollSander to clean off the laser char and finesse the fit.  The final finessing was using a file and sanding sticks.
 

 
And with the full taffrail installed.  It needs a bit of cleanup and some wipe-on poly, but I'll that when get the carvings ready.  The quarter galleries need to be built also before finishing.  It's a  bit off (about 1mm on the port side) but I'll live with it.  
 

 
All in all, I'm pretty chuffed about this as it was a big learning curve.  I wanted the joinery perfect.. not quite there yet but to my eye, it looks good.  Next up is the rudder while I sort out the quarter galleries.  These have a bit of unusual shape in that they curve out past the stern and then back to the hull, like a half circle only not...  Hard to explain but I'm researching and sorting it out.
 
 

In the process of creating a 1:40 scale model of the oyster 885 for my university project. I've been working from some rather basic plans but I feel I've achieved to get the shape close enough. I was busy the past few weeks modelling it up on CAD and have it running on the CNC machine at the moment. Blue foam tester below. 
 

 

 

 

 

Excellent 3D work.  Looks like photo and not a render.

That is some beautiful 3D work, love it. 

Whilst this CNC is busy maching the parts it leaves me free (for the most part) to work on more detail on the CAD model. Here's what she looks like at the moment. Modelled in Rhino3D and rendered in Keyshot. I'm hoping to use these as part of my portfolio along with an animation of her sailing somewhere in the caribbean. I'll get that done closer to the time. I have a few more images of the CNC process which I'll get up soon once they come off the machine. 
 
If anyone is interested I generally keep my blog/journal page up to date on uni projects and there are some high-res images thrown up there too. 
www.imacke.com
 
Cheers
 

 

 

 

Thanks Tim and Al, and for the likes. I finished assembling and rigging the four carronades on the fore part of the spar deck, before the waist. I first just put one set of side tackles on to make sure I would have enough room for two on each side without it looking too crowded. I glued these tackle lines to the deck and trimmed them, to get them out of the way.
 

 

 
You can see that for the two carronades right next to the open waist, I had to add the eyebolts into the planksheer since there is no bulwark there. Now the side tackles wouldn't be there most of the time, but in hindsight I probably should have moved that gun port a bit forward so I had more bulwark on that side. Oh well, can't change it now.
 
I then added the outer sets of side tackles. I was able to fit them all in, so I am pleased with the result. I have glued these second tackle lines to the deck but have not trimmed them yet. I also still have to add the rope coils, so I started the production line for those. 20 carronades, four side tackles each, four rope coils each = a butt load of work left to do  . 
 

 
Here is the view from outside the hull. I still have some paint touch up to do on the carronade barrels, inside and outside the hull.
 

Sorry for the long time between updates, but I have been busy with work and school vacation last week.
 
I have started assembling and rigging the spar deck guns. I am starting with the two long guns and four carronades at the bow, to see how these will look with all the rigging before continuing on with the guns after the waist. I assembled and rigged the two long guns first, since these were very similar to the guns on the gun deck. 
 

 
I still have to tighten up the side tackles and secure the ends to the deck.
 
I then drilled holes through the carronade sleds and bases, into the deck, and secured a piece of wire to hold them in place. I then assembled one carronade, first by seizing a ring bolt to the end of a piece of line for the breeching rope, threading that line through the ring bolts on the sled and the ring on the barrel, then seizing another ring bolt to the other end. I then glued a brass screw in the hole I drilled into the casabel, and glued the head of the screw and the barrel trunnions to the sled. I finished it off by gluing small strips of black paper over the trunnions. Here it is placed on deck. I am in the process of making the four tackles needed to rig it.
 

 

 
I have started to assemble the second carronade and the production line of stropping hooks to blocks for the tackles. Here are all the gun carriages on deck ready to be assembled and rigged.
 
 
 

Like many things in life, Nenad, there's a compromise.  A bit overscale won't hurt the final appearance and it's better to have the strength you need than to get way beyond this and suddenly the part breaks.   
 

There are two of standing pin-rails on aft deck Denis, one on fore deck, and couple on main deck near masts, with more complicated structure. Also there are longitudinal pin-rails along both bulwarks inside

But, you know that, Denis

After having a good day with kids celebrating their birthdays (feb 22 and 24), I made last testing, trying to make pinrails more in scale (not painted)



Some conclusion and thoughts...

This time I used toothpick (bamboo) for little pillars, and cut all only by hand and scalpel. Thinner, yes, but more more fragile, and ... whole structure is more weaker

I can not shrink their tallnes more, because then I will lose their look with this nice curvature on only 5mm long space

I reduced lenght for 5mm, and result is - bunch of pins in very small space, so I was forced to use 0,5mm wire for pins to get proper look. That opened question about thickness of ropes and lines supposed to be attached there ... Human hair ? I think - no

And here is my question: is there any point to do this in scale when you can not use it to be nice?

And conclusion: some elements just have to be and must be a bit overscaled

You are so kind, Denis. Thx for nice words and the like
 
So, I enlarged whole structure a bit to be able to do anything, and here it is ... In 100% scale, pillars in their largest diameter are thinner than toothpick, and horizontal molding has to be less than a 1mm thick, and pins thinner than 0,5 mm. All this can be seen on a little drawing on a paper below, at a photo No#1. I am not sure, even I eventualy succed to make it so small, that structure aven made of bamboo can hold any force of a one single attached rope line. So, my decision was to overscale a bit just to get some additional strenght, and to make it possible to be made for my fat fingers and bad eyes.
 
All is made from bamboo (except base of pillars)...
 
So, last attempt or first of two ... ... We'll see ...Something to think about over night
 

 

 

 
Temporary on place with bollard. Pins are brass wire 0,75mm dia, painted with acrylic. It seems to be pointless on such a scale to thin diameter of lower part of pins.
 
Considering I have seen CS kits where pinrails on aft deck are doubled size, I think it all will be just fine
 

 

 

 
Only left to drill and mount brass wire as future connection to deck

Thank you, Elijah, I am very pleased with the finish, Epifanes makes a great product 
 
Thank you, Patrick, there is no trick, Just patience and taking your time ( lots of sanding ) She is easy on the eyes ( lol ) 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hey Denis
 
Nice job on the stairs...now, if I could just guess what the flat bit is for....
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

started working on the stairway to the upper deck.   it begins as two pieces of 1/32 flat stock....the upper threshold is drawn out.
 

 
and with the rest of the sides drawn out.....
 

 
this is when I realized that making two starboard sides wasn't going to end well..........so I changed one of them to be the port side.   the tread lines are drawn in
 

 
for the frame work I'm using 1/16 strip stock to outline the drawings.   this is the last of the crappy,  that I got in one of my kits........you wouldn't believe how bad the wood was.   rough cut,   not exact to size.......I'll be picky what I use,  but following the lines,  I can make allowances here and there.
 

 
going further,  the tread frames were added
 

 
.......and then the excess was cut off.   I was going to use the scroll saw,  but I ended doing it by hand with a razor  {my trusty case cutter}
 

 
once sanded and cleaned up a bit,   a dry fit was done  to see how they fit the upper deck and the main deck.
 

This past Tuesday I displayed the Rattlesnake at the monthly meeting of the SMSNJ.  During my talk, I mentioned that I intended to use the MS kit supplied dye cast metal stern decorations since I didn’t think I could make those intricate carvings.  Chuck Passaro felt that was a mistake.  His suggestion was to have a background or ‘back splash’ and laminate carvings onto it.  The stern carving is really a bunch of small carvings, so it isn’t necessary to do one big carving.  I liked the idea.  So I decided to order a couple walnut sheets from Jason at Crown Timberland for the back splash.  And last night, I carved the rattlesnake.  I’m pleased with the carving, and everyone in my family could tell what it was.  It certainly is better that the snake on the kit supplied metal decoration (although I guess I should have a higher standard than that).  So on to all those floral carvings.
 

Wonderful! I glad you decided to at least making the attempt to create your own decorations. Based on your carved snake, it should look great. Believe me, you will feel a whole better about the model than if you had used the cast metal part. I look forward to following the process.
 
Jonathan

Seems I keep on running behind ... so too with your build Nigel. Some good progress ... looking solid!!! I'll bet the onlookers will enjoy themselves as much as with your previous build, so I'll be joining the crowd!
 
Cheers

Thanks for the kind word Carl and welcome...I certainly hope everyone enjoys this voyage! I know I am! 
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

permission to follow your build please, this will be my next purchase 

Well that old saying of a dull knife will cut you quicker is wrong. I mis-proved that statement today. A sharp knife will cut you longer and deeper. This happened with a new blade and again cutting out gun ports. I'm going to have to take a few days off and then when I hit it again, I will used my dremel tool with a router style bit and see if I can't keep from getting cut. This time I actually had to seek medical treatment. Blood spewed every where, it nicked a vessel. My work room looked like I had butchered a hog.
 
 
mike  

Ouch!!     Looks like that one might need a couple stitches there Mike. 

Jack's got a line to follow there, Mike. I got one, after looking at my left hand and the three or four gouges and slices I've put in it over the years. Your hands are a most valuable tool, after that sponge between your ears and your peepers. Take care of them. We like seeing your continuing work on the Montanes, not hospital trip reports. :)

Mike - stop by a woodcarving shop or maybe even a cutlery shop and pick up a cut resistant glove - I wear one on my opposing hand when I am doing woodcarving. It has saved me from many a slash cut like the one you got - won't protect from a stabbing type cut - just slash cuts.  They come in a variety of styles.
 
Hope it heals soon. Looks nasty

Mike - stop by a woodcarving shop or maybe even a cutlery shop and pick up a cut resistant glove - I wear one on my opposing hand when I am doing woodcarving. It has saved me from many a slash cut like the one you got - won't protect from a stabbing type cut - just slash cuts.  They come in a variety of styles.
 
Hope it heals soon. Looks nasty

Mike - stop by a woodcarving shop or maybe even a cutlery shop and pick up a cut resistant glove - I wear one on my opposing hand when I am doing woodcarving. It has saved me from many a slash cut like the one you got - won't protect from a stabbing type cut - just slash cuts.  They come in a variety of styles.
 
Hope it heals soon. Looks nasty

Mike - stop by a woodcarving shop or maybe even a cutlery shop and pick up a cut resistant glove - I wear one on my opposing hand when I am doing woodcarving. It has saved me from many a slash cut like the one you got - won't protect from a stabbing type cut - just slash cuts.  They come in a variety of styles.
 
Hope it heals soon. Looks nasty