Jack12477

@Egilman, @mtaylor, I don't know the reason for splitting the parts like that. I could think that that might easy the design of the molds or avoid problems of production. Anyway, in one of their aftermarket lines, Eduard offers a flap replacement for those who wants to pose the flap deployed. This flap is a metallic, rectangular panel and the molded parts on the kit parts need to be cut and removed. I might consider that for the next Tempest (I have also a Tempest mk II to build, which I would like to finish with a High Speed Silver livery).
Kind regards,
Dan

Maybe you could do some work demonstrating your weathering technique for the rest of us that are less adept at such artistry....
 
I for one would greatly appreciate it...

Anyways, I now have 4 WNW kits which I intend to build on here if I live long enough. There are 2 more ships in the stash which will be done soon as there is very little that is grabbing me, maybe another Dreadnought ? Lots of stories about some new RN kits to be released but I don’t believe it. 

I wonder why they did it that way, most kits make the full flaps integral with the bottom wing, easy fix I know, but it shouldn't be a fix at all.... Sure would complicate things if you wanted dropped flaps...
 
Not only the fill, you have to rescribe the rivet details.....
 
Sometimes I just don't understand the engineers that design the molds like this.... Makes no sense...

Other than the minor fit issues you described the overall molding of the parts is superb.
What riveting tool are you using? Rosie the Riveter tool has become almost impossible to find now. I guess the company went out of business?

Thanks Javlin. Indeed, lot of power, lot of striking weapons. 
 
I went on with assembling the upper halves to the lower part. Note the nice details of the landing gear wells. The trailing edge of each wing is part of the upper half. While this solution gives a neat trailing edge, the junction line, which is now on the lower surface, needs some care.

Here, the right half is still untreated, while the left received some Tamiya putty to conceal the junction line. After sanding, this is the result:

I restored the rivet lines that were obliterated with the tool shown above. Other minor filling were required on the forward parts of the fuselage, while the rear part is just fine with the glue oozed from the junction which will require only some sanding.

Inside the air intake of the chin radiator, there was a tiny gap left which I filled with water based Vallejo filler. This is ideal for these small corrections which are in areas difficult to access. In fact, you can simply clean off the excess with a wet cotton swab without the need of any sanding.

Once the wing was finished, I glued it on the fuselage. However, there is a problem with the junction on its lower surface, close to my thumb in the picture below:

The problem is with the surface of the split flap which should be an uninterrupted rectangular part. Instead it is crossed by the fuselage-wing junction lines. I will address this detail next, by filling the gaps with stretched sprue wires.
To the next instalment,
kind regards,
Dan

Beautifully rendered!

This is a master piece! 
 
Thomas
 

Awesome!

Starting to come together!!! 

Unfortunately for some bizarre reason shipping from the US to Australia is truely offensive. A $90 kit has the same amount for shipping pretty much. It does not make sense why it is to high short of blatant profiteering from the carrier companies, a Gotha has a  $200 shipping fee!! 

Great job on the shingles and the chimney Jeff. Adding the brass wire pin and support block for the chimney was a wise move.

Looking good Dan these crates look like the English version of the P-47 ...Brutes!!

That came out rather Nice Greg.

That is a decent Kit, +motorized? {chuckle}
 
Anyway I'll be lounging around the log, any question feel free to ask... (there are several of us tank nuts hanging around)....
 
EG

Nice. Ww1 modelling is really now a thing, there is new stuff coming out all the time, new 3D printed stuff all the time too. Look forward to this 

Andy you do some some work/paint and 1/72!!

Onto the roof. The simulated tiles / shingles were painted earlier and now are repainted with black and grey to produce a variety of shades. Here is one example:



Next, the edges of the template and some of the bottom was painted green. The individual rows of shingles are cut from the sheet and applied to the thick cardboard template. Lines are drawn on the template to keep the rows lines up. Here are a few rows already glued...



And here is one roof complete except for the cap shingles:



The hole is for the chimney. Rather than just glue the chimney to the angled rood, I drilled a 1 mm hole in the chimney (metal was fairly soft) and stuck a 1 mm brass wire in it. on the opposite site of the roof, I glued a small 1.5 mm plank to give more purchase for the brass wire...


The capping shingles are made from the unused perimeter of the shingle sheet. Instructions said to use one large sheet but I cut them down to size and applied them in an overlapping fashion. Here are a few pics of the 2 finished roofs. Also added are the stove pipe coming out of the window and the chimney. The chimney was first painted with VMA aged white ( 71.132)and then dry brushed in several layers to paint the bricks using VMA 71.105 (this is listed as brown but look more like brick red) . Support wires were added to both.




Some soot was added around the chimney and streaks added to roof. The "tar" around the base of the chimney is glue mixed with some VMA black green (71.021) and black. I also used some aged white to add some bird dropping to the roof. hard to see in the photos however. After hanging the 4 freight doors this structure will be done.
 
Jeff

Looks awesome! Is summer closer?😎

Hi everyone, my first foray into tank modelling with this product from Tamiya.  It is advertised as being motorized which wasn’t high on my priority list but having said that it could add a new dynamic to something that is normally a static model. WW1 has a special interest as my grandfather enlisted in the Canadian Overseas Expeditionary Force at 18 as part of the 71st Battery. His job was hauling munitions by horse drawn wagon to the frontline to feed the artillery. I can only imagine the horrible things he experienced and saw and although he passed away when I was just a toddler I’m told he never would talk to family about those days.   Perhaps he saw one of these tanks during his time in France. 
 
Introduced in 1917 these tanks had a male version and a female version. According to Wikipedia the male version had 4 machine guns and 2 six pound guns whereas the female version had only the machine guns.  420 male tanks were built.   The Germans captured a number of these tanks and put them into service. 
 
I’ve no idea how long this build will take me as it is a bit of a side project but ever project as a beginning so here we go!
 
Scott
 
 

Very nice work sir. To build a realistic level of weathering takes numerous layers requiring patience and control. You have bucketfuls of both.
 
Fab work.
 
Thanks 
Paul

I'm so glad it was an easy fix, I figured you would want to know before you got farther into finishing...
 
Outstanding work my friend.....

So when I sanded down 50% of the interior of the tracked I stuffed up and added wrong tracks to each kit, and @Egilman pointed this out to me (I hadn’t noticed as I was probably a bit focused on the weathering), so I’ve been at work all afternoon and just got home after midnight and pulled them off and swapped them. 30 minutes of weathering the tracks tomorrow and I’m back on track. (He’s know, I’d know and it would just burn me up for stuffing it up. Thanks young man for saving me. Imagine if it was after I’d finished!!!

Another great build Andy, the Beaufiighter is a good kit, I have built a couple, including the thimble radar nose version. 

Thanks rcmdrvr.  I find that the adhesive on the back of the tape is sufficient to hold it in place and don't use any additional glue.  I use a wallpaper seam rolled to press the tape down after it's set in place.  I personally have not sealed the copper plating on any of my ships and it seems to hold up well.  I know other people who do, so I think it's a matter of personal taste to seal or not to seal.  One thing you do have to be careful of is to not touch the copper with your bare fingers, fingerprints are very noticeable.  I always use latex gloves while putting the copper on and then try not to touch the bottom of the hull while doing other parts of the ship.