DaveRow
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Everything posted by DaveRow
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If anyone is interested, I have posted a pic of a spreadsheet that basically converts the imperial lengths of Mast & Spars to mm based on the scale of your model. It is based on the HMB Endeavour and is populated with the lengths from the Woolwich Yard 16 Oct 1771. Has Parkin and AOTS tabs. I will shortly add "below/above deck" for the masts into the sheet. If you would like the spreadsheet, PM me with your email and will email to you. Dave R.
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Hi Greg the peg sailor, The lengths in the spreadsheet are direct from the AOTS Table. And yes in my less experience as a builder assume the main mast lengths are stepped to the boats keel. Mizzen would be not as tall as Main. Dave R
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HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
DaveRow replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Coming along very nice Mike. Crows Nests look very real, whole boat looking great. Dave R. -
Hi Steve, I agree something is not right there. I am hesitant at scaling directly off plans unless I have a reference to check against. I have been dabbling into the masts recently - interested to check this out. The AOTS Main Topmast on page 83(1/16" = 1 ft) scales approx. 39' 6" As a check I looked up Ray Parkin HMBE and on page 34 he has a table of Masts and Yards(Woolwich Yard). The Main Topmast is at 13 yds &19 inches = 39' 19"(40' 7") reasonably close ?. Should we work with this these lengths, and the proportions of size of the view on page 83. ? AOTS p88 - scale of 1/8"=1' scales at 61' which is no good - and don't trust the scale on the page. Correct you are at 3/16"=1' scales approx. just under 41' - pretty close to the Parkin table size of 40' 7" Good pickup Steve. Dave R.
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All the best for the new year Wooden Boat Builders. I made a "dock" to hold the hull vertical so measurements can be taken and for the fit-out works. 12mm ply base with 2 batten runners either side of the keel bottom. The bow is held by 2 pcs. of pine raked either side of the bow keel. Holds the hull very firm. Shortly after I cut my left thumb severely(very annoyed at myself) which has slowed the pace of the build considerably. The hull has some 3,000 tree nails to date installed and most cut flush to the hull(ready for a final sand). Started the deck by cutting the access holes - at least I could do that with 1 hand. Been contemplating how to mount the 3 masts onto the keel, as the kit ! does not mention this. Have come up with a mast stand that clips over the keel that I lower down on the bottom of each mast and glue onto the keel. design and pics to follow. Working with 1 hand is frustrating. Dave R.
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Well, the Shipyard has been tree-nailing the hull for some weeks now. I go at it hard for a couple of sessions then a rest. With Christmas and family about, time is precious with close ones. Be glad when it is done, to move onto the hull fitments and the deck. Dave R.
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Coming along very well Steve. I'm a million miles behind you're build, but one day will get there. Dave R.
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Jason(Beef Wellington), Thought about the PVA glue vs Epoxy for the Tree nails. PVA won out, much faster and non-structural. Dave R
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Well onto the Tree Nails(TN) on the hull. Approx. 1300 done with just as many and more to go. 0.4mm hole with half a toothpick in it for a TN. My test area showed once sanded the "whiteness" blends in with the darker plank timber - Beech. I hope so. Dave R
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Looking good Steve. I keep in touch with your log - pick up on the details for when I get there. Currently Tree Nailing the hull. Dave R.
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Jason, I have PVA glue, however prefer the Epoxy as it holds really well - rock hard when it's fully dry. I haven't used any nails only the Epoxy to date - the hull is very sturdy. I agree that the epoxy is not that user friendly, pot life is very short, I watch out for the excess and clean it up. Dave R.
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Started the tree nails this last week - first to the Stern. I have been dreading doing this - so many to do. I wanted to minimise the clean up of excess glue about the holes, so I force the epoxy into the holes first, clean the surface up then plug the holes with toothpicks. After snipping the toothpick near the base with clippers, I then use a scalpel blade to cut flush to the plank. A slight sand and pretty much done. I am not worried that the tree nails are light coloured for now. Probably darken when I apply clear finish to the hull. Dave R
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Hi Steve, There looking good those windows - nice fit !. I often wonder how much effort one would put into deadlights and hatches. Whether to have them actually opening or not. ? How to make the hinges even ? Guess my turn will come soon enough when I get to do them. Dave R.
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After I loaded the pictures above(of the channels & knees) I noticed that I had made a big mistake. I had attached the Port Anchor rubbing panel on the wrong way(sweeping back and not forward). Buggar ! So after 2hrs of carefully prying to loosen the glue(2 pack epoxy) I managed to salvage in 2 parts the panel. Carefully glued the panel together and back on the correct direction. Pic to follow. I'll have to sack the foreman at the shipyard. Dave R.
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Also made the knees(3 sizes) for the channels, which are shown in Marquardt's AOTS. Each is just over 2.2mm wide which translates to some 130mm wide in real size. I believe they would of been of substantial thickness to transfer any load back to the hull/deck line. They are a bit rough for now, some final touch-ups to be done when I glue them in place, after tree nails. I also noted that in the Endeavour replica pictures I have been collecting, there no knees that I can see. Maybe just not showing up ? And have cut in the cabin window decoration in either side. Glue on after the tree nails are done. What next ? probably look at the hatches, plenty to do. Trying to mark out where all the hull items go, before tree nailing. Dave R.
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Work at the shipyard has slowed a bit after the planks completed. I have added the Anchor strips to either side of the bows. I pre-made the 2 panels(port and starboard) plus the lower strip that protects the wales, then glued in place. What a task as the hull curved and twisted, which in hindsight pre-making the panel may not of been the way to go. But persevered and got them in place. Dave R.
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Am I happy. 2nd layer of planking completed. Mixed feelings, as I cut a couple of corners using tapered(triangle) planks where they were really short in length. Otherwise I did my best to lay them naturally over the hull. Pictures: Rear bottom - going from 2 to 1 planks. Starboard bow and side with all the planks on. I was planning to paint below the waterline white, however seeing that I put so much work into the planks, it would be shame not to see them. So thinking of staining the bottom after the tree nailing. See how the tree nails turn out, ships out to sea on this for now ! I gave the planks a light sand for now, and that may be it, thinking it best to leave some imperfections where planks do not quiet align. Maybe the Endeavour hull planks may of been the same ? Now I guess I'm up to marking out where the decorations, hatches and all the other hull additions go - ready to tree nail. That will be fun ! Maybe some 1,000 holes to drill ! Did I say I was happy that the planking is done ! Dave R
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Hi Jason, The Corel boat plans have no pre-cut slots in the keel. Good point, I need to work on something now before the deck goes on. For that matter the plans that come with the kit are very basic and instructions are far from adequate for this type of built. I am lucky as I have been around sailing dingy, trailer sailor to open water race yachts for many years and know my way about boating terms etc. So I am more going by the AOTS Endeavour and what I can pick up from the other build logs on this site(which are fantastic works by the builds I have visited). Dave R
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Thanks for your nice comments Udo and Steve. I am hoping the badges when tidied up and painted will look OK. Better than the metal ones that come with the kit. Also still to add cross bars in the windows and hinged covers. All fun ! Dave R
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Nearly finished the 2nd planking layer on the hull. Getting to the last couple of plank runs on the bottom. With the hull shape of the Endeavour, the bulges, the twisting and the curving, it has made it a very challenging task for me, one that I had never thought would take so long. Although I am trying my best to drop and spline the planks to fan out to the bow and stern(with the 45 deg ends), just not going to happen every time(so much work). Some I enjoy doing a challenge, others get to me and I have slipped some tapered planks in(cheat style). I see a lot of other Endeavour builds way ahead of mine and wish I was further ahead. However, I shall continue to sail on me hearty's ! Dave R
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Whilst the shipyard(me going slow) planking is going on, took a sideline to have a go at making the 2 rear cabin window decorations. Three pics below: 1. hand sketched the Window Deco(mirror image it) and glued onto a tight grain hardwood that I cut ~3mm thick 2. I used a new scapple blade to trace around the outer and inner lines, mainly so when I used the engraving tool it had a line to cut up to. Did a first run of carving the internal lines. I then glued the Deco to a second layer of slightly thinner hardwood that I have cut the trapezoidal window out(lined the inner edges, recessed for the hatches) 3. One(RHS) 95% completed Deco and the other - get to it soon I hope. Back to planking. Dave R
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Very impressive work Klimi, Great ideas for the look. Dave R
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Update to where the shipyard is at with planking Couple of pictures of the planking to date. I will be glad when this is completed, as each plank takes so long to plan: - the position to plank before - is it laying naturally flat ? - where to start and end it - rebate edges for smooth fit to previous - if a drop plank, pre-plan how next plank fits over the dropped end or maybe another dropped plank ? - pre-bend to fit as close as possible - mark glue line, where and how many points for the super glue(to hold the plank - mix glue then apply to all connecting surfaces - place and check no gaps for the new plank Probably missed some things in the process. I have had a some clinker effect of a few planks as I forced them across the natural lay line too much. Just wanted them in a certain position, the proud edge should sand flat and we won't know which ones they are. Also not all planks the same thickness and width which plays havoc at the butt joints. I should stop complaining, nearly there. Dave R
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