DaveRow
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Tack Fairleads completed. This is the Starboard one, recessed into the gunwale. I've laminated some timber strips for the Timberheads. Generally they look to be 3mm x 4mm in section, all on the gunwale in the AOTS. However I noticed on the Replica in Sydney, some are on the inside of the aft gunwales(4 per side it looks like). Dave R
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Shipyard Update, The build has been constructing the Chess-trees. Each is a lamination of 3 x 1mm layers to make the 1mm slot for a sheeve. Plus a small piece on the back to fit between the gunwale and sheer strake. I want to use a 3mm dia sheeve that 1mm thick, haven't got one yet !. Searching. The other action in the yard is adding the skids to either side of the hull. I first glued a 1mm deep layer onto the hull, which serves as a base for a further 1mm skid. Pictures below. Working on the Tack Fairleads next. Dave R
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HOF, Have fun constructing the Endeavour. Have a look at the logs of the Endeavours on this site, quiet a few different ways to do the bow. I planked both layers from bow to stern. Takes a while but I enjoyed it. Let me know if you would like some info on planking and picture of the Endeavour replica bow planking. This info is available on the net, I just collected it over time. PM me. Dave R
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Thanks for looking in at the progress guys. The stern Roughtree is now on, another step forward. Below is a picture of the clamping on the stern rail whilst the glue dries, does your clamping look like this at times? The rounded ends of the rail sit inside the swivel Gun Stock(one of the pics below shows how this will look) Each of the long side rails have another 1mm to add on top of the rail. I left that off thinking it would be easier to bend the 2mm rail to follow the gunwale(that worked fine). The 1mm will butt up to the curved end of the stern rail, so it won't be a 2mm step only 1mm. That should look fine. Added a bit of black to the stanchions - looking better. One should contemplate doing the deck fit-out before doing too much more to the hull, working over the rails. Dave R
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Roughtree Update shipmates. I snapped a shot of the rear deck stanchions just before I glued the top Roughtree rail on. All the tops notched to provide a firm fit into the rail. Very pleased with this method. Have moved onto the stern rail now. I finally glued my stern window piece onto the boat. I made this piece months ago and although some more details to go on, need it firmly in place to fit the stern Roughtree on. Am preparing the rail, taking into account the curvatures(horiz & vert.) and the joints either side. Nice challenge. I am planning to fix the rail over/onto the side rails like the replica, bit of a tight curve at the ends. As they say, that's the plan. Dave R
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Hi Jason, I made all the pieces from stock strips supplied in the Kit. Mostly from 3mm x 3mm and 4mm x 1mm. From a previous post, the Roughtree rails are rebated to take the stanchions. Dave R
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Hello Shipmates, Seems a while that my shipyard has posted an update. Been busy making the stanchions and Roughtree rails. Each stanchion bottom double bevelled, length tapered, top double notched. A few pictures of where we are at for now. Each stanchion is pinned to the gunwale, the top notched to slip into the rebated Roughtree rail. A lot of work but assembling and aligning worked out very well. I have the stern Rougtree rail gluing at the moment(pic), she is double curved to sweep over the Taffarel and join either side Roughtree rail. Probably join as the replica is. The rails have been a welcome distraction from the airing ports. Dave R
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HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
DaveRow replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Hi Mike, Looking ship shape. Neat job I must say. Hope mine comes out as good.? Dave R -
Love the shot of your build and the similar of the Endeavour. Great work. Dave R
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Hi Greg, I have that photo. One of the many you sent link for me to download - remember. I went with the thicker 3mm deep(180mm) for the mid roughtree rail. Bevelled the top like in AOTS so it did not look so chunky. When you say the stern roughtree 120mm, you refer to the roughtree rail over the stern ? Pic below. Glue is drying on the mid rails, will post Pic when it is set hard. Dave R
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Hi Paul/Steve/Pat, I agree the roughtree rail should rest over the quarter rail. I want it too. However the aspect between the stanchions threw me, it didn't look right, I wasn't happy - help!. But having a closer look at the draft you posted Steve, gave me a thought. The draft roughtree rail looks quiet thick. Thicker than the gunwale. I have my gunwales 2mm(at 1:60 = 120mm) and the roughtree rail at 2mm thick, so if the rail was to go to say 3mm(180mm) maybe it would work out a bit better. So temp. I added 1mm onto it and compared to the draft - Pic below. Bit of fiddling and I reckon I can live with this solution. Great you guys throwing the 10 cents in. Has helped me come up with a solution. Dave R
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Thanks for looking in and your kind comments on the hinge posts Greg/s, Rohan and Steve. My fingers were too big, going the way of jigs and using tweezers helping a lot. Dave R
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Problem Huston, I hope I have done the right thing. I started having a look at the Roughtree rails while the glue was drying on the mid Airing port hinges. The Waist(front) Roughtree Rail(WRR); I laid out the rail with a stanchion height so the rail rested over the Quarterdeck Gunwale like in the AOTS and as many of the NRG MSW Endeavour builds. That makes sense to me. See Pic 01 below. However it did not look right as the rail looked too high, and where the cannons poke through the stanchions, had a high aspect whereas the AOTS has a wide aspect(wider than the height), and the rail is lower(in height). Why ? Well I kept the gunwales very low to the deck, at the change in height between the Quarterdeck and Mid decks. Too late the change now. So I lowered the waste roughtree rail 3mm. See other Pic 03 below. Not happy that the rail does not lock over the rear gunwale. There is a an Endeavour Model in the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, Auckland, NZ that has the WRR butted to the vertical gunwale section. Maybe had the same problem. ? I don't know if I have done the right thing now ? or what else is possible to do. Gentlemen reading this post, ANY ADVICE - IDEAS ! Don't be shy. Dave R
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Airing Port Jig. Bit crude, however does the intended job. I use the crappy looking hinge glued onto a scrap piece of planking, with 2 holes drilled in the brass hinge. These are same as for the previous post alignment jig holes for the 2 x eye bolt pins. Pic: Port Jig1 The jig is positioned into a airing port on the hull, and the 2 holes drilled through the brass holes. Pic: Port P1 Holes drilled above the hull hole Pic: Port P1 Port01 A part completed Airing Port fitted to the hull(with tmp pin). Some more work on the pivot pins to go. All this takes time, esp. making the sets of hinges, eye bolts, jigs etc. And I still have the lower Airing ports to go. Dave R
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Airing Ports - update The shipyard got smart on this one. Well hope so. We made a jig to mount the small port timber, the 2 hinges, eye bolt and temp pinion(nail). The series of picture hopefully indicate the alignment of the hinges whilst they glue onto the timber port. I also have a hole drilling jig that I will use to position the eye bolt holes into the hull. Next Post. Dave R
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I am mesmerized by the detail in the joints, the timbers, the finish, the lot. Great work Alexandru Dave R
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Hi Mal, The shipyard going well I see. A tip on the planking if you have not already done so. Read up on planking wooden models, if you haven't done so/a lot or want to, I can email you some doco I found that helped a lot for me(being a first time). Private Message me if you want me to email them. Dave R
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Shipyard finally has the 3 larger hatches on the side of the hull. 90% happy with them, very fiddly work making them hinges. Next is the mid size ones. Updated Sun 26July2015: Added pictures with starboard ports open. Dave R
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Hi Paul, I agree totally. My kit stern parts was nothing like the Parkinson's sketch, so I built if from scratch. Made some errors along the way, did my best to rework some of the build and come up with something with 4 windows and hatches. Mie is not finished yet, still has carvings to add on. Is it like Parkinson's ? Working in with the constraints of kit hull, maybe similar, not exact, but what is exact anyhow.? As you said "no plans of the ship" Dave R
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There are holes starting to appear in the side of the hull. Is the shipyard getting serious about doing the remaining hatches and loading ports ? Dave R
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You guys will have the AOTS and other great things sorted out by the time I get to rigging. Thanks Dave R
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Shipyard update. Stern taking shape with couple of features in place(not fixed). Slow progress, all takes time. Dave R
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2 x Bow loading ports. Change of style a bit on the ports. Using eyes/pinned to the hull, to hold the hinges. They are on the outside of each hinge. I used a rod to align the 2 hinges and whilst the glue dries them to the port cover. When the glue dries, pull the pin out, covers off and: - drill fit the fake fixings(6 pins and a eye each) - fit short pins to the hinges and hull pins They fit pretty neat. The pictures show up any scratch eh! Bit of touch up to do again. Dave R Update: added in ports after rod cut to length and all glued in place. Touch up to come.
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Bit of combing around where the rudder stock comes up through the deck. Dave R
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Hi Graham, Welcome to the Endeavour build club. My best advice is research, research and research and don't rush into it. If it doesn't look right, then it probably isn't. Ask for help, as others have said, plenty of us about to help. I gathered as many articles I could on planking, went through many of the build logs on this Web Site to see what others were doing. Consider the final look you are wanting to attain. i.e. are going to paint the hull white or a clear finish. I decided to have a timber finish, showing the traditional methods of planking a hull, thus each plank is tapered, some are dropped, stealers added in. All this explained in an article called "Simple hull planking techniques for beginners". PM me if you would like me to email it. For a painted finish, not so important, and you could cut corners and taper planks. I can only agree with Pat's comments, don't get down the track and regret that you haven't fixed some of the Boo Boos. In the end up to you, and how you want it to look. PS I am watching some 12 Endeavour builds on this site, gaining as much insight to how to do things. I probably spend as much time researching and looking at other builds as actual construction on my model. Dave R
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