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palmerit

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Everything posted by palmerit

  1. palmerit
    One thing I need to think about is that the Proxxon MICRO Mill MF 70 comes with the MICRO Compound Table KT 70. The Mill is $404.10 (MF 70 Mill and KT 70 table). The drill plus table is $306.90. That's just $100 difference. If I can use the Mill as a drill (albeit not as efficient) then I have a drill and a mill. It seems I can use the drill as a mill to some degree too, but it's obviously not designed to do that.
  2. palmerit
    One of the add-ons for the Proxxon (in addition to the x-y table and the vise) is "Chuck for drill bits up to 1/4" for TBM 115" (https://proxxon-us-shop.com/products/chuck-for-drill-bits-for-tbm-115). Is that also needed? Another is MICROMOT Steel Collet Set (https://proxxon-us-shop.com/products/micromot-steel-collet-set). Is that needed?
  3. palmerit
    I'm looking for small and light because I do my modeling in the house (sometimes on the dining room table). I have a large shop drill press in the cellar.
  4. palmerit
    Vanguard Models Sherbourne or a Vanguard Models fishing vessels (e.g., Ranger, Zulu, Erycina) - https://vanguardmodels.co.uk. They're a bit more expensive than some, but the materials are fantastic, the build is "easy", the construction is engineered really well, the instructions are great, the support is great (sometimes you'll ask a question here and get a response from Chris Watton himself). I've also been building the Model Shipways Shipwright series (Dory, Pram, Smack). They've been a nice experience certainly, but the materials aren't nearly as good, some instructions are incomplete or wrong, and some parts are wrong, which can make for some frustration. You can buy them together (https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-Series_c_815.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqsW_W5shwDgaH9mCxG9k6XEydv86dswoZcyltnzp44L_hLaLl0) or individually. You can do the Model Shipways Dory for free (https://modelexpo-online.com/free-dory-promo.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo0gCJ8N4rsdccRTZi-LcjpZwHzrfZ-BwJJR3iccGrjWlMRyAis); if you complete the model and send a photo they'll give you a credit for another model (they actually gave me the credit for Dory even though I bought the full Shipwright series). The Shipwright Series (and the individual boats) can come with a starter kit with tools, glue, and paint. I haven't used any of the tools (they're pretty cheap and I have much better versions of them), except for the clips (added them to my stash). I have used the Model Expo paint for these models, but it's not the best quality paint (it kind of works with these models since they're "working" boats), and it gave me some practice doing brush painting (I use an airbrush for other models - I'd never put Model Expo paint in my airbrush). I have refilled the small glue bottle that came with the Shipwright Series (easier to use that the huge Titebond bottle I bought). For both options, there are a ton of build logs. I'm new to this and doing a build log is a great way to get feedback and share frustrations and solutions with others.
  5. palmerit
    Do you have an extension for longer support column? I'm guessing you need a "milling bit" to do something like that? (Is that kind of like a router bit?)
  6. palmerit
    If anyone has a pointer to what kind of support column to get, I'd appreciate it. I looked on the Proxxon site and couldn't find it.
  7. palmerit
    That's a really fancy Dremel right (as in a similar tool)? When mounted in a drill press attachment is it as good as a standalone drill press?
  8. palmerit
    Isn't it true that the micro mill can do everything the drill press can do (and more)? Or is that not the case? Or did you buy the drill press and then later decide to buy the mill? I'm trying to decide if I want to spent $350 for a drill press (and accessories) or spend double+ that for a mill (even if I might not use the mill right now). I was thinking that only because I thought a mill could do everything (and more) that a drill press can do. But if a mill makes a poor drill press (or makes it more complicated) then I'd certainly just get a drill press (and maybe consider a mill in the future).
  9. palmerit
    I'm no airbrush expert, but I've been able to use mine (Iwata Eclipse) repeatedly without taking it all apart (I have taken it apart to clean, but only a few times). I use airbrush paint, not watered down regular paint. I use Vallejo Air, which I thin with a mixture of 65% flow improver, 25% thinner, 10% retarder (I just thin in the paint holder). When I tried to use watered down regular Vallejo paint (you need to water it down a lot), it worked for a bit but then it clogged and I had to clean it. I've never tried non-Vallejo paint. When I'm done, I first clean out the paint barrel with hot water several times (dumping it into a bowl). I then run Vallejo thinner through the airbrush a couple times (I have a small glass thing that I can spray into to collect). I then run Iwata airbrush cleaner through the airbrush. It's a few steps, but way easier than taking the airbrush apart (which needs to be done from time to time). I did find after having not used my airbrush in a while that I did need to take it apart and clean it.
  10. palmerit
    After several frustrating attempts at drill holes in masts and other small parts, I'm thinking of getting a table-top drill press. Looking for recommendations : whether to get a drill press or not? If so, which one? Whether to consider a mill instead? One option is the Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM 115 listing for $235.80 with the MICRO Compound Table KT 70 listing for $71.10. Another is the Micro-Mark MicroLux 3-Speed Mini Drill Press listing for $199.95 or the Micro-Mark MicroLux Benchtop Variable Speed Mini Hobby Drill Press listing for $379.95. I'm not quite sure the difference between these (apart from the price and the variable speed option) or what add-ons are equivalent to the Proxxon KT 70. I've seen some really inexpensive drill presses like here and here. But I want an add-on like the KT 70 for the Proxxon and I don't know if these inexpensive ones have something like that. Are there other options I should look at? I think I've read enough posts here and elsewhere that say that a Dremel drill press is too imprecise and I'd get frustrated with that option; but maybe there is a really good one that I've missed in my search. I think another option would be to splurge for a Sherline Mill, which I think can be used as a drill (expensive option if only used as a drill press) but I I think there is an option to also convert to a lathe (and it can be used as a mill). Right now, I only know that (I think) I want a drill press, and don't have a clue what I would use a milling machine for. I want something that's portable since I do my modeling inside my house not in a shop. I have some heavy duty tools in my cellar - including a large drill press I inherited from my father-in-law - but I prefer just being able to work in one of our bedrooms (which I need to vacate to our back room when my younger son is home from college).
  11. palmerit
    I’ve now seen a bunch of other build logs note that the pins they supply are way too wide. The pins that came with my Sherbourne fit.
  12. palmerit
    Finished adding the fixtures to the main mast of my Pram. I think I want a mini drill press? (Question mark intentional.) While I found shaping the mast without a lathe (using my drill) just fine (some said it’s easier with a drill), I really struggled to get the small holes lined up right using a small hand drill. Maybe there’s a trick I don’t know about. This step seems to be another case of a disconnect between the plans (which I had to zoom to 103%) and the written instructions and photos. The plans show a small “eye” near the bottom of the mast. The instructions and photos instead show a small copper wire loop (which I shaped with my new round nose pliers). And then plans show a “shroud eye” with an asterisks to “see instructions for alternative fitting” (with the instructions instead showing a pair of copper straps). And finally, the plans show a single hole at the top for a halyard block but the instructions have you make a halyard sheave (simulating I think a block inside the mast). It’s fine to give different ways to build the model, but when you’re new (this is supposed to be the second beginner model) you think you’re just misunderstanding. The instructions say nothing (unless I missed it) about these being alternatives (except for the lone asterisk about the shroud eye).
  13. palmerit
    I had the same confusion over the round file. I bought a 3/8" one on Amazon and after starting filing realized it was way too big. It was probably supposed to be 3/16". I don't know why Model Shipways doesn't issue a ver 2.0 of their Shipwright Series. I wonder how many builders don't find a web site like this for answers, get hopelessly confused over the instructions, incomplete parts, and the wrong parts, and just give up. You'd think they'd see the benefit of doing a review and update of their entry-level kits and make sure the instructions are clear (and correct) and the parts are the right ones. Model ships are already challenging. They shouldn't make it avoidably harder, especially for their kits that are supposed to be a beginner series. I can't imagine having been able to complete these without reviewing other build logs. I ended up using some thinned wood filler on the transom to fill in those lines (which I also didn't sand/file down to), sanding them down, and painted.
  14. palmerit
    Definitely recommend Vanguard Models. I’m working on the Sherbourne and have a couple other Vanguard Models in the queue. Wooden ships are really challenging, even “simple” ones. A Constitution or Victory scale of ship seems to require a lot of experience and can take years to complete.
  15. palmerit
    Sure thing. I thought since you were doing the Sherbourne you might be a relative novice like me (you might have said you weren’t elsewhere in your build log).
  16. palmerit
    I’ve liked having multiple builds going - though now having four (including the Lego Endurance) might be a bit much. There is a bunch of time waiting for wet wood, glue, or paint to dry. And with both my Sherbourne and my Pram I’m now waiting for some parts to arrive (with my Sherbourne I didn’t plan the cutting of some yards properly and had to order a new walnut dowel, with my Pram I broke one piece and the kit didn’t supply enough of some other pieces). Also, there have been some times when I knew I needed to think about a step or read some other build logs and it was nice to have another model to turn to when I just wanted to do some physical, not mental, model work. I know others might disagree. It’s also nice have one more “complicated” model going (not that the Sherbourne is complicated, but it does have more steps and pieces) and a simpler model going (like the Dory, Pram, or Smack).
  17. palmerit
    When you get to making the cannons, make sure you test the fit before gluing the “wedge” in place. That piece sets the angle of the cannon. It wasn’t clear to me where to place it so I placed it so that the cannon would be horizontal. It turned out the cannon needed to be pitched up a tiny bit so that the barrels would point out the ports and all four wheels would sit on the deck. A few of my cannons have the two front wheels elevated off the deck by a fraction of a mm. No one would see it but me, but it also means those cannon are only glued in place in two spots rather than four.
  18. palmerit
    Adding the toe rails around the top edge of the deck was a real challenge because there was nothing to clamp it to and because it was a thicker piece and was harder to shape. I had soaked it in hot water, shaped it, and let it set for a day, and it still wasn’t quite right; in retrospect, I probably should have soaked again, and let it shape for another day. I used rubber bands and some clips in the open sections and used a couple quick grips. I did use the titebond speed set so it would set up a bit more quickly. I still need to shape the ends of the toe rail.
  19. palmerit
    I’m not sure if I’m misreading what to do or the wrong parts are included in the kit. I’m adding the oarlocks. Each is (I think) supposed to be made from the oarlock piece itself, the brass base with a hole for the oarlock, and two holes for two pins cut short (simulating bolts). Unfortunately, the pins supplied were too wide to fit through the holes. Instead of trying to drill the holes larger, I simulated bolts using a drop of copper paint.
  20. palmerit
    This was a great learning experience. When you get to sanding, don't make the mistake I did. These 1/32 basswood sheets are really thin. I ended up sanding all the way through. But I turned it into another learning experience trying to figure out how to remove planks and replank.
  21. palmerit
    I was looking at some build logs of other ships and saw on some that the anchor rope was looped (at least once, sometimes many times) around the winch - I'm guessing it would need to be wrapped around if the winch (is this winch called a windlass - and a vertical version a capstan - I'm still learning the language) is actually used to raise and lower the anchor. I haven't attached the anchors (I just have the anchor rope pulled through the holes at the front). I followed the photo in the instructions (attached), which doesn't have it wrapped around. I suppose if I do wrap it, I'll need to make sure the anchor line is long enough.
  22. palmerit
    Finished planking my Smack and now I’m doing some filing and sanding. Heeding the caution in the instructions - and my experience with the half hull - that 1/32 basswood is pretty thin and it’s easy to sand through.
  23. palmerit
    All of the masts and yards have some kind of a taper. None are glued together. The full mast in the photo is of course made the several parts, but any yard or mast will be made from a single piece of wood. I can’t imagine a model doing otherwise. I made photocopies of sections of the plans for each mast and yard and first cut them to the appropriate length with a micro miter box and razor saw. All of these are one piece. Then using my digital calipers, I measured the width on the plans in several places (the plans are all 1:1 scale) and wrote the measurements on the plan copies. Some taper gradually and consistently, others taper differently. So you don’t want to just go from the widest to the narrowest part. I mounted the dowel in my drill. I did wrap the end several times with a strip of paper because the first time I tried I saw that the drill chuck left marks. I used a clamp to keep the drill running. I've seen people mount their drill in a bench vise, but that doesn't seem necessary, at least for this kind of work just using sandpaper. Then it was using 80 grit sandpaper to really taper away. I’d do some, then lay the copied bit of plans with the measured marks under the dowel and measure in the marked places. I’d also just look at the shaped dowel to make sure it was tapering consistently. I always was moving the sandpaper up and down the spinning dowel to maintain a consistent taper. I’d move the sandpaper slowly with pressure on sections that need a lot removed, faster with less pressure on sections that needed less removed, all in proportion to the amount of taper that was needed. Key was doing a little at a time, measuring with the calipers, measuring, sanding. I suppose without calipers you could eyeball the dowel with the plans (which is why making a photocopy of a small section of the plans helpful). When in was close to being done, I used higher grit sandpaper. I finished off with 320 grit to smooth. I had posted a while back asking if I needed a lathe to do this kind of work. Thankfully a bunch of people said to use a drill. One nice thing about the drill method is that I can just do it all at my regular work area. I don’t need to move someplace where I might have to keep a lathe. I’m sure a lathe is essential for other kinds of work, and certainly might make shaping quicker and easier (I might get one someday). But the drill worked fine for me.
  24. palmerit
    I’m waiting for the extra parts (broken yards, missing PE) to ship from Model Shipways to finish my Pram. I’m sure with the holidays that things are a bit delayed.
  25. palmerit
    Shaped the oars for my Pram; similar to what was done for the Dory. I added the “leather”, paper that I painted with Vallejo Leather Belt. There’s a wide (3/4”) single layer of paper for leather against the oar locks. There’s a thin 1/16” strip wrapped around several times that’s to prevent the oar from slipping out. I first painted one layer on a sheet of paper. Then after it dried I cut into strips (3/4” for the single layer, 1/16” for the other). For both, I first glued just the end of the paper to the oar and let it dry. For the thin one that goes multiple times around, I glued a little at a time. After they were all glued and dried a bit, I protected the bare wood on the oar shafts with Tamiya tape and added another layer of paint. You really need the second layer of paint for the sides of the thin strip that’s looped multiple times.

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