sport29652

Judging by the work you have put in on other models this is going to look great. I have tyis kit waiting so am supper interested in your build

Here is a close up of the transom to give you a final look. Imagine the hull plank terminating right where the transom filler bock is. I didn't think about this so my planks made a sharp last curve to meet the transom planking. The basswood bent better than I thought. It seemed close to a 90 degree angle. I think this is what others warn about. If you got a smooth transition your in good shape. In my case I think I goofed it up and was still able to pull it off.
 

Aaron thanks, here it is complete

Aaron thanks, here it is complete

Thanks for all the likes !
 
The rest of the wing transom was installed along with what I'm going to call frames # 29. I just free cut these but the footing match perfect at 27 degrees as opposed to the 28 degree footing frames # 28 have. Let me know if anyone sees any problems.
 

Hi,
 
I managed to find a local supplier of 0.5 mm brass wire and my first attempt at a frame now has the pins I mentioned earlier.
 

 
I decided to focus on the stern and to this end I've worked on the transom pieces. I made the lowest filling transom first and to be honest it was a bit of a disaster.  Subsequent attempts were more successful. 
 

 

 

 
 The filling, deck and wing transoms have been cut to profile and the joints adjusted to ensure a good fit with the inner post.  They have not yet been glued into place.  Inner surfaces have been given an initial fairing but I'm thinking of leaving the outside faces and the ends until the appropriate frames are ready.  This way I can refine the fit to the frames and they will be better supported and stronger to withstand shaping.
 
Next task will be the bow - once I've worked out which version of the Hawse to use. There seem to be two versions: 'Hawse, 1 - 5' and 'Hawsetimbers 1 - 6'. I think it's the latter .....
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 

Hi,
The Furniture scratch repair pens arrived .... three different browns euphemistically labeled mahogany, oak and cherry.

The first was as dark as the marker pen I used previously on the aft deadwood, the other two, shown above, were very similar to each other but do not match the woods they are named after, to be honest. The cherry, on the left, was the best of the bunch and it was this that I used on the second attempt at the deadwood and various scarf joints.

It would be wrong of me to criticize these pens without actually trying them for their advertised purpose, but with a working knowledge of furniture restoration and various finishing technique including French polishing there are other processes I'd use to repair scratches first.  The effect of this pen was generally okay although it does have a tendency to bleed,  especially on end grain.
 
Then I came across Dan Vad's advice to Jeff (Zarcon) on his HMS Victory build log about using Pigma Brush pens and archival ink.  More than twice the price of the set of three, but so much better - and worth every penny! I'll be using this for the rest of the build.

I have now completed cutting out all the components for the keel etc.







My next task is to add the rebates and additional tapering to the fore and aft deadwoods, referring to the first plan sheet and the other build logs in this forum - I love a challenge!  Once this has been done, and the parts have been assembled, I hope to be in a position to access the full set of sheets.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi,
 
The first step is often the hardest ….
 
I hope to undertake this challenge of building my first POF ship in order to develop my practical skills and learn new techniques - as well as ending up with a (hopefully) impressive final model.  I’ve been preparing for a month or so – downloading the plans for the keel, getting them printed and sourcing the wood.
My choice of timber is cherry for the keel and frames, maple for the false keel and other components further down the line and I also have some black walnut in store.
The timber as purchased:
 

 
A strip of each cut off, split and planed down to 8 mm.
 

 
Ready to start ….
 

 
The first component I decided to make was the aft deadwood.
Patterns cut out and glued onto the cherry with ‘Spray Mount’. I’ve found that this holds the paper in place well enough without leaving any residue on the surface once removed. A couple of times the paper lifted while a piece was being worked but this was spotted and dealt with before errors occurred.
 

 
After initial cutting out with a band saw edges were refined with a combination of a band facer and drum sander.
 


 
I have read about, and liked, the technique of enhancing wood joints with permanent marker pens and decided to experiment with black and brown pens on some off-cuts. To say the difference is subtle would be a wild exaggeration!  Blowed if I could tell the difference….
 

 
The pieces were glued together, cleaned up and the ‘steps’ marked prior to the waste wood being removed with chisels.
 


 
My first attempt. I’m leaving the final shaping to the sides until much more of the keel has been completed in order to try and get my head around how much wood needs to be removed.
 


 
I have also been working on making a building board.
 


Before I work on progressing further could someone confirm whether or not this project has been opened to new members again, please? I’m a bit confused by the message saying that it is on the ‘Forum’ front page and the one at the top of the ‘Cross section’ thread saying it’s temporarily closed.
 
In no way is the fact that this project has no big glossy box to smuggle through the back door while the Admiral isn’t looking, thus avoiding the inevitable questions of ‘how much?’ or ‘and where is it going to go when it’s finished’ has absolutely no bearing on my decision to get actively involved ….. honest…
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

And while we're at it, if there are people who don't yet know how to sharpen edges, DO something about it  I actually really enjoy sharpening, it can be a very meditative thing to do. And more importantly it's not hard to do, you just have to learn a few things and get the right sharpening tools. Use disposable blades for what they're for, jobs like cutting through glue and material you don't want to use your good knives on, and have super-sharp knives, much sharper than X-acto or even scalpels, waiting on your bench for where it does count. The difference between ok average sharp and really sharp is much more than people think in terms of the quality of the resulting work.
 
This is the only book you need: The Perfect Edge by Ron Hock. Very clear and straightforward and I am very much an adherent of his no-secondary bevel philosophy.

 

how do I get my hands on one. beautiful craftsmanship

how do I get my hands on one. beautiful craftsmanship

On my current build I needed to mill a slot on a curved piece.  I saw this idea in a build log a while back - I made a table for the mill with a small a peg in it.  By keeping the workpiece pressed against the peg and moving the workpiece towards the cutter I was able to mill the slots I needed.  It's best to make a series of light cuts, rather than trying to mill off everything in one pass.
 

 
 

how do I get my hands on one. beautiful craftsmanship

how do I get my hands on one. beautiful craftsmanship

Rich, I have the same miter box and it has serve me well for at least 200 + cuts

Get a good leather strope with gold polishing compound. This extends the life of all my blades. I also do what JPett does with the tape.
Pandora's box is officially opened

Hey guys, just a little update on the wale planking. It it going surprisingly well steam bending the ebony. I do not have my steam machine like I used to, no where to set it up, so as a replacement steam machine, I am using a rice/veggie steamer

So it's been over a year since I have posted anything to my triton build. It looks as though all of the pic's are gone

Hey guys, I'm back again. I have been working on the stern and have come to working on the windows, and I'm happy to say that they are complete. They're not installed yet, the photo is just test fitting with a little rubber cement to hold it in place. The inner "tic-tac-toe" frames are made out of ebony, the outer window frames are mahogany like the rest of the ship. Ebony will also be used for the wales when I get to that point. So here we go...
 
Every inner window frame was cut all at once with a little jig that you can see on the right in the first picture. That let me measure only once, and keep all pieces identical for all seven windows across the back. The outer mahogany frames were cut individually for sizing to match the stern timbers. The rest is pretty straight forward for the assembly of them. The side windows I've got to figure out because there are no plans for those.

Just a small update – I installed the horse for the boom sheet, the kevels on the quarter deck bulwark and the bulkhead ‘ladder’ or steps.  I made 4 kevels per side to give me a place to tie off the lower main yard lifts.  Still need to come up with a place to tie off the crossjack lift, but there is plenty of time to make that decision.

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything on my build, but I've been working on it quite regularly. I haven't been all that good at taking pictures of the progress though, sorry. So it's framed up, faired, keelson in place, and most of a strake of the lower deck clamps in for support while I faired the outside of the hull. Now I've started the stern. I think it's coming together ok. As always, let me know if you guys see anything amiss that I can improve upon.
 
Thanks,
Randy

Thanks for all the likes !
 
The rest of the wing transom was installed along with what I'm going to call frames # 29. I just free cut these but the footing match perfect at 27 degrees as opposed to the 28 degree footing frames # 28 have. Let me know if anyone sees any problems.
 

Thanks for all the likes !
 
The rest of the wing transom was installed along with what I'm going to call frames # 29. I just free cut these but the footing match perfect at 27 degrees as opposed to the 28 degree footing frames # 28 have. Let me know if anyone sees any problems.
 

I installed the wing transom using a pair of home made 90 degree jigs I made is plexi glass.
 

So it's been over a year since I have posted anything to my triton build. It looks as though all of the pic's are gone