Perls

Steve, you present several interesting ideas. Keep it up. 
However, the 'crumbled aluminum can' idea was not mine to start with. It was an old one proposed by . . .
I don't remember.
What I suggested was to use very thin cloth and go from there per: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/89-making-cloth-flags/?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Bflags
 
More importantly: I wish all of you people a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
If Christmas is not on your agenda, I hope that your God or believe will allow us to pursue more friendship and common enterprises through this great forum and other venues.

Good afternoon my friends
 
masting continues, and all are wip
 
the main still has to grow another 6 inches but i am getting close to the ceiling, the main top still has to have blocks fitted
the bowspit is more or less finished with the exception of painting and blocks, must admit i enjoyed build that the plans didnt help through, worse than useless wrt to some of the info required
 

Hi Kevin,
 
Just out of curiosity, how much do you think she weighs? Thanks.
 
Best,
Steve

Ahoy Mates
 
Welcome and thanks for stopping by 
 
Well after many hours sanding, my little closet shipyard is a complete disaster and will need a complete cleaning. I think I am finally at the point where I can glue the rear fillers on. I have decided to post some pics before I do just to be safe. Please feel free to speak out if you see anything I missed or worst; did wrong. 
 
I am now using 230 grade sandpaper and hand sanding the final stage.  I can feel the wood through the paper and although i do not like sanding without support this seems to be working for these last touches. I am using a piece of 1/32nd scrap as a batten and the curve is starting to settle in. I am still short on the top where I need the two layers of planking but am now reducing the height of the filler. There is nothing left to sand so I can only "ASSuME" that I must reduce the first layer of planking here. 
 
For anyone following; it took me 12 to 15 hours to hand sand these. I am sure there are those who could have powered these down in about 2 hours, sadly I am not one of them. The shape was too complicated, their importance too high and my confidence too low. I used my Pipe sander and always tried to think of how a plank would lie across the area as I sanded. When I was unsure I used my batten and tested. 
 
Here is a link to my sander
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8017-simple-sanding-jig-for-complex-shapes/?p=237878
 
Next is a complete cleaning of the shipyard. This may take a few days. Hopefully I will be gluing these on shortly and finishing with the final sanding of the bulkheads and all the fillers. Running some tests with battens and then it's gunport supports. I have learned a new method to do these so hopefully it should go a little faster then the first ones. I kind of over thought them a bit. 

Yes, acetone will work.  But if you don't like using volatile organic solvents, try a 150 grit sandpaper block.  It will take it right off your fingertips (and maybe the fingerprints as well).

Fantastic boats, Grant.  So fantastic, I'm giving up this hobby and taking up underwater basket-weaving.

Here is my take on this subject:
Swiss pear - is usually Pyrus communis - it has about 2 inch fruit, but it is often used as root stock and fruiting varieties are grafted to it.
The "Swiss" part is (I believe) a treatment done to the dried wood - steaming(?) to get a uniform color.
 
Most any fruit food will provide excellent working stock.  With the thicknesses that we use friutwood stability is not a problem.
Nice color, hard, no pores,  relatively little contrast in grain,  bends well  - tight grain =  all the traits we are after.
 
The furniture cherry wood is Prunus serotina (Black cherry).  It has ornamental value, and because birds like the fruit, is often found in fence rows, but the friut is small.  It is not likely a variety  grown for its friut.  The wood from backyard cherry trees is useful, but will likely be a different color.  The furniture wood is not difficult to obtain or expensive from hardwood dealers.
 
The difference between hardwood and sapwood is due to the tree storing "extractives" inside the cells.  It makes this section denser and a different color.  It is less likely to shrink during the drying process.   The sapwood is more prone to checking.  When dry, the sapwood is useful for our purposes, it is just a different color.   No need to discard it.
 
If you can billet (1-2 inch slab)  your wood,  I would debark it.  In any case, make sure, - this is important - make sure there is no beetle infestation.  If there are beetles, burn it.  If you billet, box out the pith and discard it.  The effects of drying will be more to your liking with it gone.   Coat the cut ends and branch cuts with wax, latex paint, varnish -  something to stop the rapid water loss from the cut ends.
 
You can speed up the drying process by making your own kiln.   Use the foam sheething that comes in 4' x 8' sheets.  The foil surfaced type is probably better, with the foil surface on the inside of the box you make.  The heat source only needs to be  a 200W to 300W incandescent light bulb, or heat lamp if incandescent bulbs are no longer available.    The water vapor needs to be exausted, but a $10 computer cooling fan mounted in a hole on one end is sufficient.   Air leaking in the seams where the six sides come together  will replace what the fan pulls out.  The size only needs to be what encloses your stock.
 
When you stack it, sticker it for proper air flow around the billets. 1/2" x 1/2"  sticks will do.
You can get a moisture meter for $10-20 from Amazon if you want to follow the process. 
 
For billeting, you cannot beat a band saw.  Try to find one with at least a 2HP motor.   
Getting a round log into rectangular  slabs - 
First, you need to get 2 perpendular flat surfaces on the log.
Use a sliding carrier board to ride on the saw table and against the fence.
Fix the log to the carrier board.   The carrier board should be longer than your log, so that you can attach at both ends of the log.
For attachment, I use the right angle support braces used in house timber framing and wood screws.

Hey Louie, Just to throw another stick on the fire. I took a little three day woodturning course a few years back, the "experts" there said to avoid fruitwood as it is unstable due to the annual movement of the wood during its fruiit production stages. That is the weight of the fruit flexes the wood. On the other hand fruitwoods are fairly colorful, and cherry is one of the best. On milling your own wood, its really satisfying to produce miniature lumber from collected stock,if nothing else you will realize why the hobby wood sales folks price there stock the way they do. You''l probably lose about half to sawdust. Have fun and keep the "chooks in the pen. Bill in Idaho

Hi folks! I've started on the two boom crutches (I hope that's the correct name). They may look insignificant, but without them, the booms would have nowhere to rest when the ship is not underway. A temporary main boom has been placed for illustrative purposes at this stage, only.
 
I've also painted the davits, although, they'll need another coat of paint and the blocks will also need to be added, before the boats can be hung off them.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos!
 
All the best for your weekends!

PopJack
 
 Looking great so far. I would agree with Floyd on waiting to sand the hull until you plank up to the rail line. I was concerned about the scuppers until I did them and they add a lot to the look. I used a flat file from a testors needle file kit, it was the perfect width. I marked out the spacing of the frame members on a plank and then filed notches into the plank to a uniform depth, than after I  finished planking up to where the top rail goes I glued the stanchions between the scuppers. If I didn't have such a hard time putting pictures on here I would take a picture and post it.
 
Brad

Welcome to the Bluenose community. I did not have much trouble with the laser cut bulkheads but this is my first build and I didn't know any better.
The other reason may be that I stiffened each bulkhead with diagonal braces as I installed them. I read that they can come loose when fairing the hull so I was concerned about overall stiffness for sanding and planking. Also had some 1/8 x 3/8 basswood left from an earlier glider build. The hull turned out rock solid.
 
 
 
I agree with Bob regarding Bob Hunt's practicum. They are very expensive unless you buy the whole set. Bob's practicum differs from the kit in build sequence, though I cannot answer if it is that much better. He does give good advice about thinking ahead in the build. I also set it aside once the hull was complete. I some great guidance and ideas in this forum (check out Bob's metal work, he inspired me!).
 
When cutting the rabbet, I recommend lightly gluing a piece of scrap instead of the stern post to the keel to prevent damaging the part.
 
Brad, tapering the quarter deck planks was a learning experience resulting in many broken sticks. However, it is well worth the effort and good practice to boot.
 
Do enjoy and keep posting!
 
Dave B

Hi Mark,
 
I just checked out the first post and then checked out Micro Mark. $92.65 for the micro sander? I guess we have different ideas on frugal. My idea is to glue some sandpaper to a Popsicle stick, drink about 5 cups of strong coffee, and become an "organic" sanding machine. :)
 
Best,
Steve

Hi Mark,
 
I just checked out the first post and then checked out Micro Mark. $92.65 for the micro sander? I guess we have different ideas on frugal. My idea is to glue some sandpaper to a Popsicle stick, drink about 5 cups of strong coffee, and become an "organic" sanding machine. :)
 
Best,
Steve

Railings? At this scale I would suggest hitting some spider webs with CA!! :)
 
Best,
Steve

Hi all.  The latest photos of Ingomar are as follows; mainly featuring the steering wheel and binnacle.
 
Michael, Jeff and Bob - I took the cheats way out and used a Swarovski crystal for the multi-faceted binnacle glass from the local jewellery/sewing shop that my wife frequents.  It was almost the right size and shape.  At about a millimetre high, I think it looks passable.  Thanks for your help and suggestions.
 
The steering wheel is made from plastic tubing and fine brass wire for the spokes.
 
Other photos will feature the ship's davits, which need painting and blocks added.  The ship's boats, themselves are also being sanded and painted (so pls excuse their rough finish at the moment).
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
All the best!

Hi Mark,
 
I just checked out the first post and then checked out Micro Mark. $92.65 for the micro sander? I guess we have different ideas on frugal. My idea is to glue some sandpaper to a Popsicle stick, drink about 5 cups of strong coffee, and become an "organic" sanding machine. :)
 
Best,
Steve

Hi Mark,
 
I just checked out the first post and then checked out Micro Mark. $92.65 for the micro sander? I guess we have different ideas on frugal. My idea is to glue some sandpaper to a Popsicle stick, drink about 5 cups of strong coffee, and become an "organic" sanding machine. :)
 
Best,
Steve

Hi All,
 
I've mentioned this before, but an old finish carpenter's trick is to spread a thin layer of Tite Bond on one piece to be glued and let it dry. Spread another thin layer on the piece to be glued and press together. It is almost always used on returns of complex mouldings. It's almost like contact cement, but with some working time. Finger pressure and a minute are all you need for good glue joint. I urge everyone to experiment with this technique. It can replace the need to use CA except in very specific circumstances.
 
Best,
Steve

Hi All,
 
I've mentioned this before, but an old finish carpenter's trick is to spread a thin layer of Tite Bond on one piece to be glued and let it dry. Spread another thin layer on the piece to be glued and press together. It is almost always used on returns of complex mouldings. It's almost like contact cement, but with some working time. Finger pressure and a minute are all you need for good glue joint. I urge everyone to experiment with this technique. It can replace the need to use CA except in very specific circumstances.
 
Best,
Steve

Hi All,
 
I've mentioned this before, but an old finish carpenter's trick is to spread a thin layer of Tite Bond on one piece to be glued and let it dry. Spread another thin layer on the piece to be glued and press together. It is almost always used on returns of complex mouldings. It's almost like contact cement, but with some working time. Finger pressure and a minute are all you need for good glue joint. I urge everyone to experiment with this technique. It can replace the need to use CA except in very specific circumstances.
 
Best,
Steve

Hi Alfons,
 
Thanks!  I pretty much follow the steps I outlined in the articles and downloads section:  Making a Mast (or Yard) from Square Stock
 
http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php
 
I have begun using a hand plane instead of the large file when shaping the octagonal sections, and on the smaller spars using a Michi 3/8" wide flat chisel.  Other than that it is just measuring with proprotional dividers or using tick strips to locate at given length locations the marking points for lines/curves which mark the octagon edges.  I find using a variety of ships curves helps to get flowing curves for shaping the spars.  Once the octagonal shape has been formed I usually just sand the 8 edges off using progressively finer grit sand paper.
 
To be honest - I find shaping a straight square stock strip (of bass wood, for instance) far easier than shaping a round birch dowel.  And once one has the done the process once or twice it really doesn't take that much time.
 
And to all those who've 'liked' my posts - thank you very much!
 
 
Elia

Hi Omega,
 
I'm sure that however you work it out it will be spectacular. Now that I think about it, spectacular might be the wrong adjective when you're talking about an accurate representation of a boat that's seven inches long. Maybe it should be "min-tacular". Anyway I'm sure it will be awesome.
 
Best,
Steve

Hi Omega,
 
Herreshoff really designed some beautiful boats and yours certainly does him justice!
 
So.......What's next?
 
Best,
Steve

John:
 
For some photos of the process, see the first page of my log.
 
I used a piece of masking tape to measure the distance to be planked on each bulkhead. I placed the tape on a given bulkhead using a longer piece of tape and then marked the deck line on the tape and the top edge of the keel. Then I took the tape off and laid it out flat. Now, I measured the total distance between the two marks and divided that by the number of planks from deck to keel in the hull. That gave me the width each plank on that bulkhead. Now replace the tape on the bulkhead with part of the bulkhead showing and transfer the marks for the width of each plank onto the bulkhead. I repeated this operation for each bulkhead and now I have the width and shape of each plank laid out on the bulkheads. I did this along the angle of the bow and for the stern frame as well. I do this for both sides of the hull.
 
When I planked this hull, I did not use any premilled strips, I cut each plank out of a sheet of basswood. These can be gotten for a few bucks at your local hobby or crafts store. I got mine from Hobby Lobby. I used white card stock for spiling and tapering each plank.
 
Cut a piece of card stock just a little longer than you first plank at the deck at the bow. Make sure it is somewhat wider than you need as well. Hold or tape it against the hull so that its edge sticks up above the deck. Now, run a pencil along the edge of the deck against the card. This is the upper edge of your first plank. Now, cut the card to that line. Mark the bulkheads that your first plank crossed on the card and measure from each bulkhead the widths of the first plank on the card, using the upper edge of that plank on the card as you reference line. Do it for the bow rabbet as well. Once you have these widths marked on the card, connect the dots. Now you have the shape of your first plank. Decide where the butt end of the plank will occur.
 
Now, cut the card to that shape and check it against the hull to make sure you have got the shape exactly as it is laid out on the bulkheads. If it has been done carefully, all is correct. Lay the card on a piece of basswood and trace the shape. Cut the plank out and use the card template as a guide to fine tune the shape of the plank. You can leave the plank a little long until you are ready to fit and glue it in place. If you need to soak the plank to get it to bend easier, that is no problem. I held mine under hot water from the faucet for a minute or so and then clamped it in place on the hull and let it dry. Once it was dry, the plank held its shape well enough that I was able to glue it place, using my fingers to hold it for a few seconds while the glue set enough.
 
For planks that have their edge against another plank, use the card again as a template and use a compass to trace the edge of the plank above onto the card. You can connect the dots to get that edge shape for your next plank. That is spiling. Then you can measure the widths as before to get the bottom edge of that next plank. That is tapering.
 
Where you have a bulkhead in the stern that does not extend down to the keel, draw lines extending that bulkhead's position on the deadwood down to the keel. Your measuring tape will need to cover that distance since planks will fill that area.
 
Let me know if you need anything further.
 
Russ

Planking almost complete. 
 
Russ