michael101
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michael101 got a reaction from reklein in molding casting metal
wow thank you all !!!
I have not read the posts until today
But I thought on this solution
Melted the tin in the mold of the wood part , on the basis of tin , Then I cut the tin around casting After that sharpened the part , and then I drilled the holes ( measured from the damaged wood piece between the holes by a pin ... ) Here are the results ::: -
michael101 got a reaction from catopower in molding casting metal
wow thank you all !!!
I have not read the posts until today
But I thought on this solution
Melted the tin in the mold of the wood part , on the basis of tin , Then I cut the tin around casting After that sharpened the part , and then I drilled the holes ( measured from the damaged wood piece between the holes by a pin ... ) Here are the results ::: -
michael101 got a reaction from Canute in molding casting metal
wow thank you all !!!
I have not read the posts until today
But I thought on this solution
Melted the tin in the mold of the wood part , on the basis of tin , Then I cut the tin around casting After that sharpened the part , and then I drilled the holes ( measured from the damaged wood piece between the holes by a pin ... ) Here are the results ::: -
michael101 got a reaction from thibaultron in molding casting metal
wow thank you all !!!
I have not read the posts until today
But I thought on this solution
Melted the tin in the mold of the wood part , on the basis of tin , Then I cut the tin around casting After that sharpened the part , and then I drilled the holes ( measured from the damaged wood piece between the holes by a pin ... ) Here are the results ::: -
michael101 reacted to druxey in molding casting metal
I agree with Clare - stay away from lead-bearing pewter. I pour pewter in Micro-Mark's 1:1 RTV moulds with no problem.
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michael101 reacted to catopower in molding casting metal
Hi Michael,
For metal casting, I like the 10 to 1 RTV silicone rubber that Micromark sells. It can take up to 600˚ F or about 450˚ sustained.I tried using stuff from TAP Plastics, which works, but it's thicker and harder to work with I think.
I started casting Britannia Pewter, but the melt temperatures are high and so I started using a Tin/Bismuth alloy. I recommend staying away from lead.
Rotometals.com has a whole range of low melt alloys and their prices are much better than buying them from Micromark.
Personally, I enjoyed learning the new skill.
Clare
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michael101 reacted to Moxis in molding casting metal
There are also silicone rubbers that resist high temperatures, up to say 450 deg. Celsius. It is possible to cast tin/lead alloy to the forms made of this material. Just google high temperature silicone rubber.
You may consider also using polyuretane resin for your castings. Does not shrink and can be used in normal temperatures. One good supplier is SmoothOn.
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michael101 reacted to shiloh in molding casting metal
Using metal requires heat, how much depends on the material, also you need to determine what the material used shrink rates are and compensate for it in the pattern. Think that most modelers use resin and soft molds. Molding tin would not be difficult to get set up for, might look at some data on the Lost Wax Method, the molds are simpler than sand molds and fit small scale more efficiently. Using sand molds you can pour Iron and brass in large quantities. Someone will be here that casts resin with soft molds that will have some experience to share.
Something else you might consider is using Key Stock, I keep it around to cut small parts from, soft and easy to work. With the right size piece of key stock, a file and maybe a fine tooth hack saw, something to hang on to ( leave a handle in the stock you are making your piece from, cut it off as a last step ), and a vice. you can shape something fairly easily.
jud
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michael101 got a reaction from pwwilson1938 in molding casting metal
hello
im working on the concord stagecoach of model expo
and i want to make some upgrade for some little ply pieces
so i want to cast tin and i need to make a molding for that its a very simple pieces without nothing on that it just for replace
the wood piece
need advice for making mold
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in airbrush for wooden ship?
i called to the store
and i told hem what i need it for
so he told me that i not need something expensive
and he talk about that model :
http://www.sparmaxair.com/product_detail.php?id=1&r=55
how is it?
for the airbrush i will go on the ultra
H&S Ultra two in one 125533
with:
nozzle set 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm
2 ml and 5 ml plug-in cups best regards Michael. -
michael101 got a reaction from Canute in airbrush for wooden ship?
thank you all!!!
now i need advice for compressor
i will be more than happy if you will note which one you use
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from donfarr in airbrush for wooden ship?
hello everyone
i want to know if its common to paint model ship (wood) with airbrush
because i not like the effect of the normal brush
there is someone that paint with airbrush?
i dont want to spend to mach money for something that it will be useless for me
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Altduck in how to line the water line on bulkhead
hello everyone
I thought of the idea and it works great !
1.make a photocopy of the bulkhead from the plans with the lines (of the center and WL)
2.now you need to paint the other side of the copy on the direction of the lines from the copy side by PENCIL
3.put the copy on the bulkhead with the lines outside and the pencil "paint" inside
4.Now take a ruler lay it on the line and just mark the line with a pencil
5.by doing step 4 when you marking the lines on the paper you also marking under the paper Because the other side "paint" by pencil
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from RichardG in how to line the water line on bulkhead
hello everyone
I thought of the idea and it works great !
1.make a photocopy of the bulkhead from the plans with the lines (of the center and WL)
2.now you need to paint the other side of the copy on the direction of the lines from the copy side by PENCIL
3.put the copy on the bulkhead with the lines outside and the pencil "paint" inside
4.Now take a ruler lay it on the line and just mark the line with a pencil
5.by doing step 4 when you marking the lines on the paper you also marking under the paper Because the other side "paint" by pencil
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 reacted to dgbot in how to line the water line on bulkhead
Great tip Michael that is a keeper.
David B
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in how to line the water line on bulkhead
hello everyone
I thought of the idea and it works great !
1.make a photocopy of the bulkhead from the plans with the lines (of the center and WL)
2.now you need to paint the other side of the copy on the direction of the lines from the copy side by PENCIL
3.put the copy on the bulkhead with the lines outside and the pencil "paint" inside
4.Now take a ruler lay it on the line and just mark the line with a pencil
5.by doing step 4 when you marking the lines on the paper you also marking under the paper Because the other side "paint" by pencil
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from dgbot in how to line the water line on bulkhead
hello everyone
I thought of the idea and it works great !
1.make a photocopy of the bulkhead from the plans with the lines (of the center and WL)
2.now you need to paint the other side of the copy on the direction of the lines from the copy side by PENCIL
3.put the copy on the bulkhead with the lines outside and the pencil "paint" inside
4.Now take a ruler lay it on the line and just mark the line with a pencil
5.by doing step 4 when you marking the lines on the paper you also marking under the paper Because the other side "paint" by pencil
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in best way to do the rabbet line/bearding line
thank you Mike and Dziadeczek
i started to work with the hobby knife so far so good..
i will post the pic when i will finish
i hope to finish it at this week, but you know its an hobby and we need to give him the time that its will take...
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in bow and counter block filler
Thank you all !
I'm going to work on the rattlesnake of model shipways
And now I'm checking the plans ...
Hornet The block filler is to smal so I can't do as the tutorial it's will be very smal pices to work with...
CaptainSteve can you explain me the steps again my English is not very well but it sounds interesting the guide that you wrote
Also I didn't understand what you wrote about the levels (what levels mean?)
Thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in bow and counter block filler
Thank you all !
I'm going to work on the rattlesnake of model shipways
And now I'm checking the plans ...
Hornet The block filler is to smal so I can't do as the tutorial it's will be very smal pices to work with...
CaptainSteve can you explain me the steps again my English is not very well but it sounds interesting the guide that you wrote
Also I didn't understand what you wrote about the levels (what levels mean?)
Thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in bow and counter block filler
hello
I'm trying to find a tutorial for how to curve the bow block filler and the counter block
can someone explain me how to do it?
thank you.
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in bow and counter block filler
hello
I'm trying to find a tutorial for how to curve the bow block filler and the counter block
can someone explain me how to do it?
thank you.
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in bow and counter block filler
hello
I'm trying to find a tutorial for how to curve the bow block filler and the counter block
can someone explain me how to do it?
thank you.
Michael.
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