Louie da fly

Apart from the awning over the poop deck and the steering oars, everything's pretty much done except for the fiddly stuff.
 
    
 
Mark, the anchors ranged from 47 to 67 kg (103 - 147 pounds). Probably two or three people could haul one up without a windlass, but this isn't something I'm qualified to comment on. Any ideas on whether this is too heavy to be hauled up by hand and would have needed a windlass instead?
 
But yes, it could certainly be used to raise and lower the masts as well.   

You learn something new every day - if you're not careful!
 
Looping the forestay around the foremast would mean it avoids transferring any forces to the foremast - which if it's very far forward as in Backer's diagrams, would be a good idea.

The centre of effort should be as close to the centre of resistance (i.e. resistance by the water to the movement of the vessel) as possible. it will depend on the rig and on the shape of the boat - obviously the "sharp end" presents less resistance to the water than the "blunt end" - but it usually means the mast should be as close to the centre of the boat as you can make it.
 
Is the boat to be lateen rigged? If the mast lines up with the centre of the yard, there'll be more force acting on the back of the sail than on the front, because it's a triangle with the small end at the front. That's why the mast on lateeners is often a little forward of centre, and also why the mast often leans forward. See
 
 
(such a beautiful sail!) and  to see a small lateener being rigged: - 
 
 
 

Nice to see this reach completion.

Exquisite work, Ondras!

Apart from the awning over the poop deck and the steering oars, everything's pretty much done except for the fiddly stuff.
 
    
 
Mark, the anchors ranged from 47 to 67 kg (103 - 147 pounds). Probably two or three people could haul one up without a windlass, but this isn't something I'm qualified to comment on. Any ideas on whether this is too heavy to be hauled up by hand and would have needed a windlass instead?
 
But yes, it could certainly be used to raise and lower the masts as well.   

But (and I'm really showing my ignorance here) it would only be one anchor, right? You only raise one anchor at a time?
 
So perhaps one anchor cable is wound round the windlass from the anchor, and down a hole in the deck (in the photo below it would be aft of the windlass) to the cable locker below the deck. And the other anchor cable goes directly to the cable locker through the same hole?
 

 
So to put the anchor cable on the windlass, the cable would first have to be untied from the anchor, wound around the windlass and then re-tied to the anchor? (having trouble getting my head around all this).

You learn something new every day - if you're not careful!
 
Looping the forestay around the foremast would mean it avoids transferring any forces to the foremast - which if it's very far forward as in Backer's diagrams, would be a good idea.

Apart from the awning over the poop deck and the steering oars, everything's pretty much done except for the fiddly stuff.
 
    
 
Mark, the anchors ranged from 47 to 67 kg (103 - 147 pounds). Probably two or three people could haul one up without a windlass, but this isn't something I'm qualified to comment on. Any ideas on whether this is too heavy to be hauled up by hand and would have needed a windlass instead?
 
But yes, it could certainly be used to raise and lower the masts as well.   

Apart from the awning over the poop deck and the steering oars, everything's pretty much done except for the fiddly stuff.
 
    
 
Mark, the anchors ranged from 47 to 67 kg (103 - 147 pounds). Probably two or three people could haul one up without a windlass, but this isn't something I'm qualified to comment on. Any ideas on whether this is too heavy to be hauled up by hand and would have needed a windlass instead?
 
But yes, it could certainly be used to raise and lower the masts as well.   

Apart from the awning over the poop deck and the steering oars, everything's pretty much done except for the fiddly stuff.
 
    
 
Mark, the anchors ranged from 47 to 67 kg (103 - 147 pounds). Probably two or three people could haul one up without a windlass, but this isn't something I'm qualified to comment on. Any ideas on whether this is too heavy to be hauled up by hand and would have needed a windlass instead?
 
But yes, it could certainly be used to raise and lower the masts as well.   

I'm working on putting the anchors in place. Here's a test placement (disregard the way I've tied the rope that fishes the anchor - it's just to keep it in place for the time being).
 

 
I'm not sure what I need to do with the anchors and windlass - are the anchor cables supposed to be attached to the windlass when the ship is sailing, or is that only for when she's raising the anchors? And if the cable isn't attached to the windlass when under way, what should it be attached to? Should it be tied to (say) the peribolos (pseudo-cathead) and then coiled on the deck? Or what?
 
I suspect this isn't the way anchors were dealt with in later ships and that may introduce uncertainty, but any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hmm, I'll have to do some thinking about that. I've already (unfortunately, as it now turns out) used beeswax on the shrouds. We'll just have to see how they last.
 
In the meantime,  I've made a flagpole,
 

 

 
cut a hole in the deck for it and installed it. Note that the flagpole had to go one side of the ship's "tail".
 
 
      
 
   
 
The flag is cotton fabric which I painted with acrylic, so thickly that it's been integrated into the fabric itself. That gave it the stiffness that allowed me to introduce some "flutter" into it. 
 
    
 

 
and some more work on the rigging. Coils of rope for the "free ends" of the shroud tackle (left) and the halyard tackle (right - hanging on the mast crutch)
 
     
 

 
Blocks for the halyard trusses (which hold the yard to the mast):
 

 
and I added an eyebolt to secure the tackle for it on the foremast.
 

 
But when I tried to make a hole for an eyebolt for the after mast . . . . !!!
 

 
I cut a new piece to fill the gap - allowing for a hole for the second eyebolt. I'm letting it dry then I'll put in the eyebolt.
 
In the meantime, here's the tackle for the fore halyard truss - the fixed end tied to the eyebolt and the free end attached to the cleat on the mast. Just waiting for the glue to dry.
 

 
And here's the upper end of the tackle, showing the block in place.
 

 
 
 

I've been having a few problems with the rigging - particularly with belaying points, but I'm making slow but steady progress. My original idea for the foretacks was to run each one to a turn around a "bollard" on the forecastle which acted as a fairlead, to a point aft of the mast so the yard could be pulled back behind the mast when tacking.
 

 

 
Only problem was - it wouldn't have worked (which I realised when I was in bed, where all one's best ideas arrive - usually at some ungodly hour of the morning). I had run the tack under the benches would have made it impossible to pull the yard back.
 
So I re-ran the tacks, still with a turn around the "bollard", but then outside the shrouds. (The clothes-peg is just holding the rope in place while the glue dries on the bollard.)
 
 

 

 

 
Fixed the "bitter end" around an upright of the pavesade aft of the mast, and tied off the free end to the pavesade rail nearby.
 
Then the vangs. One end of the port vang is fixed around an oarbench, the other to the rail of the pavesade. The starboard vang is still loose:
 

 
And both fore-vangs tied off:
 
      
 
Now for the after yard. I added the crewmen hauling up the yard:
 
  
 
Unfortunately the rope they're all holding just couldn't be a straight line due to the one of the guys standing on the hatch cover. In the real world they would have adjusted their grip to allow for that. Not so easy with carved figures . . . However, it's a small issue and I'm not going to bother about it. I know about it, and now you do as well - but I doubt anyone else will ever notice . . .
 
Here all the ropes for the yard are loose - bosun very unhappy.
 

 
So I put the fellow in yellow to work, holding the port tack so the yard doesn't swing around as it's raised. Sorry about the picture quality.
 

 
The other tack will be loose, as will the vangs, as the yard is in the process of being raised. 
 
Now I'm trying to work out how to produce a natural catenary curve in the loose ropes. Cotton thread is "springy" and doesn't naturally fall into such a curve. I'm experimenting with wetting the thread and with soaking it with a weak solution of PVA (white) glue. But if anyone can make suggestions or has been in the same position I'd be grateful for advice.
 
 
 

But (and I'm really showing my ignorance here) it would only be one anchor, right? You only raise one anchor at a time?
 
So perhaps one anchor cable is wound round the windlass from the anchor, and down a hole in the deck (in the photo below it would be aft of the windlass) to the cable locker below the deck. And the other anchor cable goes directly to the cable locker through the same hole?
 

 
So to put the anchor cable on the windlass, the cable would first have to be untied from the anchor, wound around the windlass and then re-tied to the anchor? (having trouble getting my head around all this).

And probably at the stern as well. Unfortunately kit manufacturers often supply the planks the same width the whole length, when in fact their width varies right along their length to allow for the complexity of the shape of the hull. Adjusting the width is called spiling, and it needs to be done otherwise you end up with gaps between planks at some points and overlaps at others. 
 
I'd suggest you have a good read through the planking primers - take your time, until you're happy you understand them (and even then it's possible to make mistakes - don't ask me how I know), and then have another go at your planking. Don't worry - it is possible to get it right!
 
The other thing is it looks like you haven't faired your frames - that is to bevel them at the edges to follow the smooth run of the planks, so the planks rest against a surface rather than just an edge. The edges of the frames shouldn't be at right angles to the frames themselves, they should be at the appropriate angle to let the planks rest smoothly against them. (I hope that makes sense).
 
Planking is probably the most difficult job you'll have in making your model. It's worth putting in the time and study to get it right. You'll be glad you did. And ask questions - lots of questions. Plenty of experienced people here to help you.

Looks very good. That's going to be a superb model.
 
So the layers on the mast fish are the grain of the timber? Or do I still have it wrong and the fish itself is made of plywood? I take it if you stain it again it won't change anything - that the different colours will still be obvious?
 
I had a look at the red painted fish on the Sea Stallion and because it's a fairly subdued red it actually looks pretty good.

That's a very good figurehead indeed. Very much in the spirit of the Viking carvings of this type that have been found in archaeology, and well carried out.
 
Regarding the eyes, most seem to have just been carved into the wood, but there is one, by an unknown artist modernly known as the Academician because of the sophistication of his work, that has little metal plates (probably silver) as the eyes.
 

 
Not suggesting you try for this level of result at home kiddies, but it does support your idea of making the eyes different.

Er, yes. I really don't think I'll try that at this stage of the build.
 

And probably at the stern as well. Unfortunately kit manufacturers often supply the planks the same width the whole length, when in fact their width varies right along their length to allow for the complexity of the shape of the hull. Adjusting the width is called spiling, and it needs to be done otherwise you end up with gaps between planks at some points and overlaps at others. 
 
I'd suggest you have a good read through the planking primers - take your time, until you're happy you understand them (and even then it's possible to make mistakes - don't ask me how I know), and then have another go at your planking. Don't worry - it is possible to get it right!
 
The other thing is it looks like you haven't faired your frames - that is to bevel them at the edges to follow the smooth run of the planks, so the planks rest against a surface rather than just an edge. The edges of the frames shouldn't be at right angles to the frames themselves, they should be at the appropriate angle to let the planks rest smoothly against them. (I hope that makes sense).
 
Planking is probably the most difficult job you'll have in making your model. It's worth putting in the time and study to get it right. You'll be glad you did. And ask questions - lots of questions. Plenty of experienced people here to help you.

You learn something new every day - if you're not careful!
 
Looping the forestay around the foremast would mean it avoids transferring any forces to the foremast - which if it's very far forward as in Backer's diagrams, would be a good idea.

The last entry!
Construction days 28 - 31 were spent installing the sails, flags, running and standing rig. I encountered no major or minor problems. But I noticed something: while on the start of day 29, the Yacht still looked like a construction site with all its threads hanging loose and no sails, this day brought a big change. After installing the main and topsail, she had turned into a ship. After adding both stay sails the next day, the transformation was complete.
 
I close this diary with some pictures of my Golden Yacht in broad daylight.
 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

When I was sanding the opening where the tiller goes in, the two top wales sprung loose from the hull. Ten cm of that wale was removed and 8 cm of the wale below the top wale was removed. Created 2 new scarph joints and placed 2 new walnut planks in  place of where the other wales were removed. Using glue & sawdust combo, bend the wales towards the hull, clamped and pinned the area and let dry overnight.

 



 


On the inside installed 0.5mm thick planks and most of it will not be visible.

 
The tiller opening the stern area is a bit off. If you look towards the hole and keep the stem as your middle point the left area is a bit bigger than the right side. I'll figure something out to make it more even.
 


Next will be the 4 windows on the rounded stern.

 
Up to now this is what she presently looks like. 
 

 

 

 
Marcus 
 

Thank you very much Louie da fly and FriedClams. I try to be hard on myself ..🧐
 
I started making vertical beams that protect the side when launching boats. Base milled, but precise grooves created by the files ..
 

 

 

 

 
Installation of klinkbout on the sides..
 


 

 

 

 

 
 

Great work Ondras