Louie da fly

it looks like he is dead! And no one seems to care or to give any attention... they are keep rowing as nothing ever happened! 😁

Here’s a couple of pics of a little progress;
I couldn’t figure out the third line down from mast top to bow, it is a shorter line ending in a block with two lines down to another block attached to a length of chain to the bow. So I have rigged it by fixing one end of the moving line to the upper block then down to the lower one, back up round upper block and down to the post and tied off. No idea whether this is correct or not. If anyone knows what this arrangement is for, I’d love to know. I have also done the radio wires between the two masts using bait elastic (for securing bait for anglers) which has helped tension the bow lines which were sagging a little.
 
Thanks for looking, cheers Paul

Thanks Steven!
 

Before lining off I had to mark the shear. I clamped a wide plank to get the line as straight as I could.
 

I have seen people use this kind of template for lining off and made my own to get the different strake widths correct.
 

All frames lined off.
 

I made templates for the planks using masking  tape.
 

Planks held in place with lots of clamps
 

Treenails made from bamboo toothpicks corrected in size using my home made drawing plate (fancy name for a hole drilled in a steel plate). They are functioning and sticks out on the other side.
 

The inside will look like an inverted hedgehog when the planking is finished.
 

Gardboards are done! I try to mimic the placement of the joints of the planks in the strakes with the original's. They were sometimes placed between frames, but I will have them all on top of frames to make it easier.

More railings on Queen Elizabeth. I am finding that these 1/600 railings are a lot harder to do than 1/350! Tedious for sure and difficult to see and place. If you're standing 2 feet away you don't even see them. Lots more of them to do.

Just use a straight razor blade to slice it flush.  Works the best.  I use CA to glue them in the holes.  But seriously you dont have to use any glue at all.  If your hole is the correct diameter and you get a good tight fit.  Then when you apply the wipe on poly and it dries it will act like additional glue.   You can simply sand the hull to after you use the straight razor to make the line flush.  Use a fine grit say 320.
 
Its a very simple process.
 
Your treenails may have started out as #78 bits but my guess is they were  made much larger by whatever awl you used or the pencil.   They look way too large. Thats the issue.  With cedar the wood is soft and prone to enlarged holes.   Also....Not that big a deal if you dont add treenails at all.  Its a real nice look.   Much preferred over a poor job of treenailing.  Run more tests before you even touch the model.  

You did a great job on that planking.  It would be a real shame to ruin that with an odd treenailing job.  I wouldnt just put them at the butt joints.  That looks awful.   It only looks right if the treenails are to scale and placed where they would be.   The sample board you made is definitely too large.  That would really be a mistake in my opinion.  I would not go larger than a #78 drill bit.  
 
You might want to try using brown mono-filament.  You can even use black....I would go with 10 pound stock and nothing larger than 12 lb fishing line.   They would be nice and neat.  A brown line looks very good and I have seen one Cheerful hull done that way and it looks great.   Otherwise the treenails can get too large with irregular shape.   The other very good option is to not show treenails at all.  That planking looks so good it would be a shame to ruin it with an odd pattern or large treenails.  It would look fantastic as it is right now.
 

 

 

I'm think you accidentally stumbled across the right idea with two frames - one to learn how to plank the ship and then a second to plank for real 😁

Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate your taking the time.  
I follow your Alert, I’m sure you can pull off Cheerful. Maybe like me you’ll just have to do the same plank 3 times. 😂
 
That’s exactly what I’m finding. I just bought some thicker brass, I need to get the right profile cut in it. 

This is something that I'm trying at the moment. 
I cut the profile into a 2mm thick old brass hinge and practiced on a piece of AYC. I found a thinner scraper tended to dig in!
Anyway that's my pennies worth. 

You've convinced me that my skills aren't quite ready to be stretched this far 😂. It really looks nice Glenn! All your effort is really shining through!
 

That is one beautiful hull...Moab

Thank you Lou, Derek, Edward, and Bruce.  
 
I really appreciate the comments, I just try to pay it forward having learned so much from others as well. I really didn’t know when I started if I could pull it off, I’m glad now I did start it. I mainly hope my log will help encourage others to take their own shot at stretching their skills just as I’ve been encouraged.
 
Regarding tree nails I think at most I’d put them at the butt joints. They are all in the right place, but not in a perfect line. As Lou notes being lined up is a big part of them looking right so I don’t know... I agree with Derek as well, in fact measles was my same thought. I’m going to have to think about it some.  To nail, to partially nail, ......
 
My other challenge is the moulding, so far my practice with the scrapers I’ve made has not produced a single good result. I’ll keep working at it until I can produce some worthy of the model. Another of those things I’ve not done before.  
 
So between these two things, I guess I’ll be slowing down for a while. Maybe I’ll build a cannon or two as a side project  and a diversion.  
 
Thanks again for the input, I appreciate the counsel.

Count me in. I will never be that good but ....

Glenn, your patience and diligence has paid dividends, for the planking on Cheerful is amazing. 
With your detailed step by step posts, this log will be a go to source for future builds.
Please keep them coming, I've learned lots and no doubt many others feel  the same.
Cheers 😏👍

Glenn, you have created a thing of true beauty. Those shots of the completed hull are simply stunning. The best compliment I can make is that your planking is indistinguishable from that of the master, Chuck Passaro.
 
I agree with Lou on treenails. They're clearly a matter of personal preference but all too often they can make the ship look like it has a bad case of the measles. For me, leaving them off and not over-doing the caulking allows the eye to focus on the beautiful lines of the ship and the superb planking. Perfect. 
 
Thanks again for the detailed explanations which I shall bookmark under 'planking tutorials', as before. This is yet another model I'm going to have to add to my ever-growing wish-list!
 
Derek

Time to get started, you’ll enjoy the journey, just don’t drop it. 😜

Beautiful job on planking your Cheerful.  I appreciate the detailed explanation of your processes.  It will help future builders of this great kit.

Wonderful craftsmanship, Glenn, and a gorgeous result! It's so beautiful you're making me want to build this ship! 

Thanks Michael and Rusty!

Glenn that is one hull to be proud of. A perfect example of taking your time, fixing what you're not happy with and persevering. Great explanation too! Well done. 

Glenn that is a fantastic result.  I do really appreciate the detailed description of your process.  

After 3 months I have completed building and planking the hull. It isn’t perfect but I’m happy with the results of my first single planked model. Here’s a few things I learned in my failed quest for perfection as I planked the lower belt:
 

 
The taper point, determined by the tick marks, for the upper planking belt was consistent at bulkhead B and only required forward to the bow. Although for the most part the lower belt taper began at bulkhead 2, this belt was a bit more complicated. I don’t know why exactly but I had to make adjustments different from the original tick marks as I progressed through the lower planks. However, validating the process, I did this by “updating” the tick marks after the first couple of planks, measuring the distances with tick strips to determine the widths required at each bulkhead for the suceeding planks. It sounds more complicated than it was. The real point is the process worked and kept the guesswork at bay. It does mean planning the whole way, so progress can be slow.
 

 
I installed the first three of the final ten from the top, then switched to cutting the garboard and two planks above it before going back to the middle four. This is a sound process I’d recommend for everyone. I really didn't want my last plank to be the garboard. This plank (actually two pieces following the pattern) took me a long time to shape. As normal I did better on the 2nd side, but this time no third attempts. Aside from the more complicated fit of the garboard, there is another reason for finishing with the lower middle of the belt for us mere mortals. Any adjustments that might be needed (I acknowledge nothing:-) are done on planks visible only on the bottom and won’t be seen once mounted. 
 

 
There is a small curve at the stern along the keel and of course the upturn of the keel to stem at the bow. I thought about how to get those curves just right and wondered if only there was someplace to copy them for an exact fit….Using the original laser cut waste worked pretty well, especially for the small curve in the keel at the stern. I probably had some reason for including the tick strips in this photo, but I don't remember what it was. Oh yeah, use tick strips. 😄  I love this old knife, I have fancier handles but always reach for this one. I probably went through 15-20 #11 blades for this phase of the model. 
 

 
Many already know this, the best wood filler is the sawdust gathered beneath my saw from the planks cut for the model. I’ve not had to use a lot having been very careful (and having ripped off and replaced so many planks), on occasion it comes in handy. Here for example I thought I did a great job on the shaping the port garboard until I placed the next plank up and found the garboard to be about .05mm short, leaving a very small hole between it and the stem. I used a toothpick to put a little glue (either Aliphatic or PVA, but not CA) in the hole then placed a pinch of sawdust on top. I used the backside of my favorite dental tool to pack the sawdust into the hole with the glue and blow off the excess. I let it dry and then sand it, the hole essentially disappeared. For the best result I let the glue fully dry before sanding, I also try to use the least amount of glue needed to fill the gap and wipe it off the excess before it dries to make final sanding easier.
 

 
I did a little side experiment with tree nailing. I’m not sure how I feel about doing this or which method to use. I tried the black (and brown) fishing line approach, but wasn’t sure I could pull it off consistently or neatly. So I then tried two different neutral colored wood fillers and using both the sharp pointed pencil in the hole before filling (Chuck’s instructions explain this process) as I did for the keel and stem, but also did the hole fill without the pencil mark.  I’m not decided yet on which to use or even how much I want to do it. I spent a lot of time on the hull, I’m not that excited about poking holes in it: 😕
 


 
I’ve mentioned plank bending using @Chuck method several times in this log, my Lady Nelson log, and multiple times as comments on other logs. I can’t say enough about the difference it makes for me. The real value is the dry heat bending. Neither of the planks show above were touched by water (I normally rub a wet finger across before I apply heat, but wanted to make a point so on these two I didn’t). They are clamped to a board, bent to shape, and heat applied with a travel iron (much quieter than hair dryers or heat guns). I then happily use CA to apply my planks. I can select, taper, shape to fit, and glue on a plank with no soaking, no warping, no clamps, and relatively quickly move to the next plank. It's a process, it takes time to shape them properly. But the more I did it the better I got in determining where to apply the bend. It's seems odd, as shown in the top photo I bend a plank in a downward curve in order for it to lay properly bent up and in onto the bulkheads.
 
I don’t know how I could have single planked Cheerful’s hull by any other method. I have a tight fit between planks, there is no edge glue, the butt joints are tight. Once properly shaped, it sometimes takes 2-3 times under the iron, I can almost lay it into position, including the heavy twists required at the stern.
 
I’m not perfect with the lining, as I noted above I had to make adjustments, but doing so told me where I needed to adjust rather than finding out too late. It also showed me, which is a really big deal, where to start any required tapering, and if I didn't need to taper at all. It’s a process that works, it doesn’t take long to learn, though it does take time to do. The reward is a much nicer planked model - in my opinion and my experience. It most certainly a nicer one than I would have  been able to do with my old ways.
 





 
So with all that said, here is my finished hull.
 
The stern post took some work to fit. Don’t wait until this point to start that fitting process. I’ve been checking it as part of completing the square tuck. In my case I had to cut off about 1/8th inch from the bottom, this will vary per model. Chuck told me it’s cut over-sized to allow for adjustment, given every model is a little different. It is a chore to get a good fit.
 
One final comment on planking. I elected at the beginning not to “caulk” each plank by adding a pencil mark on one side. I wasn’t confident how it was going to come out (based on my skill and it being my first). As it turns out the Alaskan Cedar in combination with Wipe On Poly brings out the planks in a subtle way that I like. The butt joints are easily seen and the slight variations in the wood highlight the overall character enough without pencil marks - in my opinion.
 
As I've noted I’ve never single planked a hull before, I was really concerned about even attempting it. My advice to those thinking the same thing: This is the model, Alaskan Cedar is the wood, and Chuck's instructions provide the right opportunity to give it a try.
 

 
I’ve come a long way from that day when my first frame shattered as it fell to the floor. I’m hoping I can continue to make progress without that happening again.  For now I’ll just sit back and think about how I want to attack tree nailing and moulding strips.  Thanks for taking a look.

Nice work. Those masts are really looking good.

Beautiful work (as usual) Patrick.

Beautiful work.