Rudolf

Made the lower shroud chain plates they are made so that they can be pinned to hull, and also got the lower hull prime painted 
 

 

 

 
 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard
 
 

Thought I would show a few more pictures of the coamings, the small grove in each I made with a tool I made up.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Next up I have built the Bowsprit, Bowsprit bits, Samson post, Windlass & Counter Shaft, Jumbo Jib Boom Crutch and last the engine and clutch cover boxes
 
Bowsprit I made from a square piece of wood and filed, sanded to shape, note bottom of Bowsprit is straight and tapers on top
 

 

 

 

 

 
Made the Batterns for Jib stops and just pined these for now will glue once I mount, wont be able to go through hole 
 

 
Here are some pic's of the Counter shaft assembly and Jumbo jib boom crutch
 

 

 
And this is how it all looks
 

 
REgards
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks again everyone for all the likes do appreciate very much 👍
 
Made all the coamings for hatch, cabin skylight and companionway as per drawings and installed onto supports I had added, made the nibbing strake for the fore deck  and made deck planking from kit supplied wood 1/16" thick  trial fitted before gluing, each plank I ran a 2B pencil along on side to show caulking once laid.
 

 

 
Fore deck runs parallel to the center line and stops at the step then planks taper on the quarter deck
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Once this was done did a very light sanding of deck 
 
Regards
Richard
 
 
 

After life getting in the way a bit this past week and spending the weekend in Philly with my wife and daughter, I finally got the hull closed up.  Still have to sand it all smooth. 

 
When I was in Philly we went to Penn’s Landing on the Delaware River. Toured the Olympia and saw quite a few models in the Seaport Museum. Also ran into Joe J. From the Philly club demonstrating model building techniques. Thanks to Joe for showing me the boat yard in the museum where they actually build real boats such as the whale boats that are on the C W Morgan. Very cool. 
 
it was a bit cold by the river so we will need to go back in warmer weather. 😁
 
Tom

Chugging away at the planking. I have reached the copper line with the planking. Everything below to the garboard can be planked with double width planks to help speed up the process a bit. They will be covered with plates so the actual planking pattern is not all that critical as long as it is smooth and follows the right contours.   Good thing sandpaper was invented. I left my planking a bit heavy in the thickness to allow for heavy sanding if needed without sanding my way through. 😜
 

 
Tom

Made a little more progress today. I have all the bulkheads shaped, fit and pretty much fared. They are just dry fit now. I will true them up and glue them in place after I shape the rabbet grooves. 
 

 

 
Also managed to get in a evening last night at the Mystic Seaport during their “Lantern Light Village” exhibit. The village center was set up as it would have been in 1876 around Christmas. It was basically lit only by kerosene lanterns with small barrel fires here and there. They even had horse drawn carriage rides. People were dressed in period costumes and playing various roles. Amazingly they never broke character when talking with you about current events…. of 1876. 😁 The Morgan although only partially rigged due to the on going restoration,  was a bit “spooky”  looking in the to walk around in by lantern light.   Here is part of the the village as it was lit up. The Morgan is on the left if you look closely in the dark. 


 
Tom

Hi everyone out there.
I have finally begun my new project, the whaler Charles W. Morgan based right here in Mystic CT about a hour away from me which is a big reason I chose this ship. I am a member of Mystic Seaport and have been on her many times. The last few taking many pictures of things most tourists don’t even look at. 😁. I was able to see her dry docked as well this summer while some restoration was being done to the hull. These ships are MUCH bigger out of the water. Sometimes you just don’t realize how much is going on below the surface.  
 
I bought a set of plans from Model Shipways (1:64 scale) that has 6 pages of very details drawings of everything I should need to get through the basic build. Of course there will be hours of supplemental reading and research to finish it off I am sure. This being my second scratch build I am quite sure I have plenty to learn about. 
 
In between painting rooms other house projects I have snuck in an hour here and there to review the plans and get started on the center keel and bulkheads.
 

 

 
Time to sit back and enjoy the ride. 
Tom

I’ve done a fair amount of hemming and hawing over a number of things, but I eventually arrived at the place(s) I think I need to be.
 
For clarification of the earlier discussion; this is the essential problem of my stern winding out of square.  Note, how the starboard aft edge of the upper bulwark increasingly extends beyond port:
 

 
I thought I might try drawing arcs of round-up that ranged from extreme to conservative:
 

 
I started with the extreme line (far right), but ultimately - a more slight increase of round-up (middle line), appeared to me to be the most organic possibility.
 
Here is what my ultimate choice of round-up looks like from the starboard side:
 

 
It is just enough, I think, to help balance this incongruity - if not completely.
 
It seems to me that I can also help balance this out when I make the upper stern balcony.  Here, I have pulled a uniform cardboard template just away from the port side, so that the outboard edges of the stern balconies align:
 

 
I think this will help align visual perception at the exact point where it is most important.
 
At the end of the day, I am pleased with the slightly increased camber of this bridge-piece:
 

 
One thing that has become interesting to consider is this:  in gluing up the aft bulwarks, I was very conscious of establishing a realistic sense of tumblehome, as the bulwarks rise.  Even accounting for my initial increase in breadth, in the early drawing, I inadvertently maintained the slab-sided verticality of the kit stern.  In the left margin, I have noted the discrepancy between where I have arrived, dimensionally, versus where I began schematically:
 

 
Pictorially, here is the discrepancy for real:
 

 
What is completely fascinating is that the upper width of the stern is almost identical to the stock dimension.  Here is the stock poop deck, in place:
 

 
Even though this is not where I thought this project was going, when I started, the improved sense of tumblehome was well-worth the sacrifice in stern-width.  This isn’t perfect, but it looks more  right than wrong:
 

 

 
A montage of development for the next tier of stern lights:
 

 

 
The pilasters of the lower balcony rail don’t seem to align, but this is not reflective of reality.  Again, it isn’t perfect, but it’s pretty close.
 
After drafting:
 

 

 

 
This isn’t perfect.  The drawing can  be improved upon with the carving tools, themselves.  For the most part, I think this works.  I wonder whether I should follow the Berain drawing a little more closely and include an extra line of horizontal window mullions.  The false side lights, at this level, have five horizontal lines, but I am trying to balance this tier with the actual stern lights below.
 
Just for fun, a different iphone filter - Le Soleil Noir:
 

 
As always - thank you for looking in.  Bon noir!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you both, Glenn and Theo. 👍
 
Post Ninety- one
 
Topsides decoration
I have decided to attend to this now as it will probably be easier without having to negotiate  guns sticking thro’ the ports.
I had a look at using the ‘Winnie’ topside decoration but it proved more tricky to manipulate the design to fit between the rails.
As etch decoration goes the kit version is very fine at 0.2mm, finer than the equivalent Pegasus decoration etch.
So kit etch it is.
 
My approach to preparation
The preliminary preparation will be done on the fret.
The etch is gently cleaned both sides with  soapy water using an old toothbrush, then rinsed and dried.
The design is painted with VMS Metal prep4k primer, followed by a base coat of Vallejo Ochre Brown.
The  painstaking job of applying highlight and shadow then begins.
I will be using Vallejo acrylics throughout.

5957
I applied the highlights (Yellow Ochre /Ivory mix) and the shadows (Dark Vermillion/ Burnt Umber mix) but these will require more work once the design is attached to the hull.
 
I used tiny dots of ca to attach the strips and I must commend Chris both for his design and accuracy in the fit of the strips.

5959

5960

5966

5967

5969

5976

5977
I am not disappointed to have gone with the etch for the Topsides, and am particularly pleased with the way the etch tones in with the ‘painted’ stern and counter decorations, courtesy of Chuck.

5981(2)

5980(2)
I am pleased that from  normal viewing distance of around 12” and from a broadside aspect, the fine etch does look like it is painted on, which was an unexpected bonus.

5978(2)
I will continue to  fettle the decoration using macro shots to reveal any flaws that require touching up, but overall it has been a satisfying couple of days.
 
B.E.
04/03/22

Kortes, my heart goes out to you and your countrymen. I pray this madness ceases immediately, may God protect you and yours. 

Well said, Juhu.  Even those of us much farther away are saddened and concerned about what is going on there. 

Thanks for expressing what so many of us in the world are feeling as we continue to watch the heroism and the terrible suffering of people of Ukraine.  

Hello again.
Dory is finished and secured in her cradle on the deck, added chain plates and attached anchors. If did not forget something, I shall consider the hull as done and investigate carefully, what is rigging about and where actually to start with it...
 
 
 

Forward companionways finished, ready to be placed on the deck
 
 

 

Hi South
Your photos show over all very nice workmanship.
Your question  is intriguing.   When Chapelle refers to solid covers, it sounds like it would be a solid wood cover, but perhaps canvas over the grating.
Another possible solution is having the grating flush as in your second photo and then  a cover with sides. see sketch
below. I really have no firm answer, but over all I would trust Chapelle the vast majority of the time and would rarely trust many kits without doing some researching as you have done.  
 
Allan
   

Ok, work on Smuggler is resumed now. I have started to build the fwd. companionway:

 
Still little bit rough, but getting some shapes. I decided to replace cast grating from the kit with the wooden one. I also realized, that many commercially available gratings kits look like taken from the prison cell window, once assembled. Eventually found one, that I like much more than the metal piece. Will see, how it looks at the end.

Another small step, ship's bell and all the windlass gear:

Positioned on the deck, for now dry-fitted only to make a photo. Will be removed and glued later, to avoid damages, while working on deck structures:
 

 

 
Now I will make a short pause - have to focus on completely different "project" - one diatonic accordion is waiting to be tuned, let's see how it goes... See you later.
 

Here you see I have also attached those noble trailboards. In the kit, they are provided as metal castings. I was planning to replace them with the wood pieces (In general, I am not so impressed with metal castings from the kit). Trailboards in my case were not of the same thickness, neither length - aft protruding parts on one of them looked like not casted fully. But I abandoned this plan - to replicate faithfully nicely done decoration would be above my skills. Here I came back to plastic modelling world, took some Tamiya spray cans and AK weathering pencils.
 

 

 
 

Quarter-deck v4
 
While the wooden quarter-deck previously produced (v2) was not entirely bad, it lacked the crispiness I had wished for and also the colour was somewhat murky, more like oak, and not like the teak it was probably made from. In addition, I found a mistake in its shape that could not be corrected.
 
This quarter-deck is somewhat unusual in lay-out, as the planks are radiating with the gun-pivot as centre. This lay-out probably was chosen to minimise the effect of the certainly considerable blast from the 30.5 cm-gun. Apart from the fact that most wood-species would be too coarse at 1:160 scale, it would also be a challenge to produce such deck with tapering planks only 0.4 mm thick. A painted version renders more likely a realistic representation, is technically easier to achieve and more in line with the style of the model.
 
The shape of the wooden deck was cut from a 0.4 mm thick sheet of bakelite-paper and carefully fitted to the hull of the model, which was quite a bit of work given the multiple curvatures. The caulked seams were indicated by narrow engraved lines as described earlier in this building log. The holes for all the fittings were also drilled at this stage.
 
In between, I had tried using black styrene, rather than bakelite-paper as a basis for the decking (v3). The rationale was that I would clear out the engraved lines after painting down to the black plastic. This strategy did not work for two reasons, namely the styrene (Evergreen™ sheet) is much softer than the bakelite and the acrylic paints form a kind of quite soft skin, which tends to rip in flakes when trying to re-engrave the lines, so that I dropped this idea.
 
The wood character of the quarter-decking was to be achieved by giving each plank a slightly different colour, imitating the natural variability of wood. The piece was given a base-coat of Vallejo Model Air 71075 ‘sand (ivory)’ using the airbrush. In a next step single planks were randomly given a light wash with Prince August 834 ‘natural wood transparent’ or Vallejo Model Air 71023 ‘hemp’ (which turned out to be a bit too dark actually). In a next step randomly selected planks, particularly those ‘hemp’ ones were given a very light wash with Vallejo Model Air 71288 ‘Portland stone’. Another very light wash with Vallejo Model Air 71041 ‘armour brown’, toned down with yet another very light wash using Vallejo Model Air 71132 ‘aged white’, pulled everything together.
 

Painted quarter-decking before sealing it with varnish
 
To facilitate the picking out of the caulking seams, the decking was given a sealing coat of acrylic glossy varnish. The definition of the caulking seams was enhanced by running the back of an old scalpel along them, making impressions, rather than cutting through the paint. The caulking was imitated using a 0.05 mm marker with pigmented permanent (hopefully) ink. After each line was drawn, the ink was allowed to dry for a few seconds and the excess wiped off with a barely humid finger. This leaves the ink only in the incisions, resulting in a very thin black line. In spite of the glossy varnish, a haze of the ink is left on the planks, darkening them somewhat, but this effect was calculated in, when setting out the original paint scheme.
 
The surface was lightly rubbed down with an abrasive foam block (as used in mani-/pedicure) to thin down the glossy varnish without damaging the underlying paint. This rather complex procedure was concluded by applying another very dilute wash of Vallejo Model Air 71132 ‘aged white’ and finally a sprayed on coating of Vallejo matt varnish.
 

Finished quarter-decking ready for final installation
 
To be continued ....

Thank you gentlemen 😀

One already suffers as a model builder 😉

And when I'm not doing such nonsense, I'm busy at the moment with the elevations of the sides. During the rebuilding in 1816 the high round bow was installed according to Seppings. Everything was first a cardboard template. Here is the immensely high new bow ...



... then along the upper deck ...



... and the built poop.





A face that only a mother could love - or a dafi http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

Then transfer of the masks to 2 mm polysterol ...



... warm up this round nose part ...



... and pre-bend it.



But 2 mm polysterol doesn't quite want to go the way I want, even with heat, so I cold bend it over the edge of the table until it's nice & soft.



And for further help I had already installed supports inside ...



... and since I still have concerns, I also glued something on the outside to hold it up, no, it's not hawse-pieces, that's coming off again http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif


And somehow it was important now that I got the next parts done, just so for the sore soul ...





And now the worst part for me: patience to let it dry well!

XXXDAn  

I`m starting a new project on this forum.
I fell in love with a two masted pilot schoner, that operated on the Elbe river, Elbe-mouth and german bay. The period about 1890. I`m adding some pictures I researched on the web, and information from marine paintings.
The enclosed print of an wonderful oil painting, was created by the marine painter Carl Becker, who died in1926.
The picture, adopted from one of my own books shows the pilot schoner "Elbe 5" before the elbe Estuary. The small pilot transfer boat brings the pilot back, now that the steamer in the background has presumably completed its journey down the Elbe river and is just about enter the Elbe mouth and onwards to the open sea.
The model will be scratch built and POF, equiped with gaff sails and appropriate  rigging
The chosen scale will be 1:50 and the estimated build time 12 months from today. The displaying shall be on brass pedestals in a glass casing .......
 
the models rating will be:
length over all                          725 mm
hull length                                 524 mm
breadth over frame                117 mm
Hight main mast from
decks railing                              504 mm
copper cladding below the waterline
 
The original schoner has already changed it`s owners many times in life since the 1890 days, has been lovefully cherrished an equipped with up to date nautical- and safety equipment. After sinking to the river bed some years ago after an accidential crash wih a trader motorship it has been raised, restored and is now  being operated by  much enthusiated members of an association of maritime oldtimer ships and live museum craft. in Hamburg. They are also offering tourns on the Elbe river when the weather is suitable again.
 
Nils
 
 
 

print of an oil painting by Carl Becker (died 1926)
 
 
 
 
 

Elbe 5 in moderate breeze on Elbe river
 
 
 
 
 
 
below is showing the template of one of the 13 frames for the model. The frames will be cut out of 2,5mm thick multiply with 5 layers

One final photo of the ship in its case...
 
 

I'm calling this done. Plenty of mistakes but what a learning exercise !! Hope you enjoy the pictures...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Did you build in a baracado on the deck? I believe this slave ship had one.

Update with progress pictures of the little boat I am adding, this is from Caldercraft; before I knew Chris at Vanguard was doing his own, so not as refined as his 3D printed ones, as resin the shell has no detail (and it is not quiet symmetrical!) - so added some of my own ribs with plastic strip.  I also added a wood floor from left over pear strip from the second planking.  The 'clinker' build was simulated with card, something I have seen @Beef Wellington do on his superb builds, so shamelessly copied him! 😁  seats and capping rail also from pear.  I have added a "boat slide" for this on the deck of 'Nisha' and will fix at a later stage.
 
Next update will be back on the 'Nisha' starting the masts.