kees de mol

I had a lot of fun weathering the ship these days. Maybe it's not everybody's taste but I like the result so far.











Groeten, Kees

I had a lot of fun weathering the ship these days. Maybe it's not everybody's taste but I like the result so far.











Groeten, Kees

Hello everyone, and my thanks to all who visited and clicked the like button, it means a lot to me.
 
This morning was taken up with yacking with the landscaper who was to trim my crape myrtle trees in the front yard and trim a bunch of other bushes.  Gwen didn't like to see me on a wobbly ladder with a chainsaw.  Then I did some more research on natural healing for cancer, lyme disease and bone infections.  Yes, there are at least two methods.   A good friend of ours has severe diabetes and hardly any circulation in his legs and he has now an infection in the bone.  The prescribed anti-biotics don't work.  I just like to help people be healed naturally without devastating drugs.
 
After lunch though I could venture back into the garage and work on the railing stanchions.  I cut 2 mm lengths of the 1 mm brass tubing to solder into the fish mouths on top of the stanchions.  I was only able to complete 10 out of the 60 stanchions.  This'll be a long project but it's a fun job.  I'm actually quite anxious to see how it'll look.  Strange idea having a railing on a submarine.  No wonder these things were so slow under water.  At the refit in Scotland in 1943 they removed the railing altogether and also the torpedo loading gantries.  They gave the boat a portable loading crane they could stick onto a fixture on the deck.  I don't know how much it increased the submerged speed.
Oh yeah, I need to make a note to provide a place for the boarding ladder!  Yup, there was one that could be attached to a receptacle on the deck.  It's located on the forward part where the deck gun is.  You'l see it when I get to it.  Hey Jud, talking about more stuff to be added 
 
Okay, I did make two pics for my archive and post them below.
 

This shows a completed stanchion with a # 11 blade for scale.  The railing cable will be strung through the hole in the top.  I guess I could have just drilled a hole through the tube but this looks more "professional" and finished.  Why do it the easy way if a more difficult and time consuming way is also possible 
 

Here I have stuck the stanchion to the deck.  Evening out the lengths of the stanchions above the deck will come when I have all of them made.  I may even try to tap the small top tubes oval.
 
Cheers,

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

Deck planking continues.
 
       Bob R.

Some details of the sails ....
Mauro

Kees,
 
what a spectecular build. It must be the shortest steel built Trawler i`ve ever seen. There must be spacewise Docking Problems alongside the kay.
Its a wonderful model, the realitic weathering makes it look like having a hard fishing season behind it.
In all very well done !
 
Nils

Kees...you're a true magician to be able to pull off the transformation that you're doing now - from pristine and ship-shape to worn, weathered and full of character with workman-like charm.
 
Can you pls explain a bit more about what each step involves? For instance, what is the saltflake method? What other methods do you use?
 
Look forward to hearing from you.
 
All the best!

very nice looking fore deck

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

At this moment I've come a little further with the boat. First I build some trawldoors. They are used on the trawlnet as a rudder to keep te net open.
 



 
After this I started the paintwork. The first staps are done but it is off coarse not ready yet. The weathering will take a lot of time and work. In this first stap I use the 'saltflake methode'.











 
Regards, Kees

Today, I started by working on the Keel , I did alot of fairing and then applied a second coat of epoxy. ( I hope to have the Keel ready for paint next ) I told Piet that I would be making the Main Sail, However I decided to try and make Gennaker # 2 ( the shorter Gennaker) with the Blue rip-stop Nylon, This material was alot harder to work with than the Fabric for the first 2 sails. ( the glue has to be placed in such away as not to effect it's ability to Furl )It worked out after the second try , I am happy with how the seams turned out and it's ability to Furl, I then turned my attention to making the second Steering wheel , Here are the results

Here are the most recent pictures of Meridea. 
 
I used epoxy to completely seal the drain sump and around the drain outlet.
I finished the doubleplanking of the hull and sanded it to almost smooth.  I will leave it this way until just before I am ready with the glass coating of the hull.  Then the hull can be painted. 
 
Once that is accomplished, I can ballast the boat, and prepare it for finishing the rigging. 
 
I now have the insides of the rails painted, and the cockpit painted. 
The deck and cabin roof has been primed and sprayed with clear coat (non-glossy)
 
I have some brass cut for the main mast boom, and the mizzen boom, and the cap for the mast
having 4 eyelets for the guy attachments.  When I did these, I only could find my thinner brass
but I found it too flexible, so I aim to re-make it all from the thicker sheet which turned up later.   
 
Full side view.

 
Aft view.

 
Mast cap with attaching rings

 
Cockpit view

 
Fwd deck view showing jib boom to be attached after guy lines attached.

 
Front view

 
I'm sorry about the white being too overexposed.  My camera has no adjustment for brightness built in.

Well, yes he is! It will be his model when I've finished her, and he's already being very proud of it!
 
There are some more members of the family on the ship:
 
His mother (she has to deal with my hobby and is not always pleased about the mess I make - therefore a nice place behind the mast for her)
 

 
And of course the builder himself (which is me  , but you might have noticed that) 
As I'm not the most handsome man only my head was enough:
 

 
Poor quality of pictures - sorry for that.
 
And all of you - thank you for the nice words and the likes!

CAPTAIN CROZIER’S BED CABIN
 

Scale cross section of Crozier's personal quarters (at Station 12).
Note that the double planking and ice channels on the hull aren't shown here.
 
As part of my research on the Terror’s lower deck, I created a series of elevations of the fittings and accommodations. In my previous post, I provided  a cross section of the captain’s great cabin, which was the most spacious and lavishly appointed room on the ship. This stood in contrast to Crozier’s bed cabin which appears to have been as small and spare as the other officer cabins (in fact, it was among the smaller bed cabins on the vessel). It had just enough space for a simple bed, a washstand, and a small fixed writing table (in contrast to the larger folding writing tables in the other cabins).
 
This cross section is based on details derived from the Terror’s 1836 lower deck plans (modified in 1845), the somewhat more detailed 1839 lower deck plans, and the 1839 midships section plan. Further information was taken from images of fittings on HMS Unicorn, HMS Trincomalee, and HMS Warrior.
 
The cross section shown here provides some interesting information about how the ship was modified for polar exploration. The square-shaped hot air heating funnel can be seen just behind the bed. Heated air must have escaped from holes in the upper surface of the funnel, rising through the space between the bed and the spirketting caused by the knee, as the 1836 plans (and others) show that these beds were built flush to the deck. The “thick” waterway was fitted in 1836 and, in addition to its traditional function of protecting the beam and plank ends, worked as a sort of reverse shelf piece/deck clamp to support strain on the decks from ice pressure. The six inch thick shelf piece itself was as robust as ships of 60 to 90 guns, and its run and position is specifically noted on both the 1836 and 1839 profile plans, suggesting it was a new modification to both ships. 
 
The right-angle iron knee was a relatively standard design of the era and examples can be found on the gun deck of Seppings' HMS Unicorn. We know similar knees were retrofitted to HMS investigator and I expect the same occurred on the Terror, and the partial section on the 1836 plans shows a clamp/shelf design commonly used with iron knees (although the iron knee isn't shown until the 1845 midships section). The knee was bolted to the beam, the bolts passing through the shelf piece, the chock, the frame, and the first layer of the outside hull planking. Uniquely, its heel was supported by a massive six inch thick plank bolted to the spirketting. Again, the run of this plank was shown on both the 1836 and 1839 profile plans, suggesting it was a critical modification to both ships.  On the Investigator, both the shelf piece and the supporting plank below the chock were made from elm, but Rice (Ross 1847) indicates they were made of oak on the Franklin vessels .
 
The massive knees severely impacted the available space in the cabins, and the iron knee itself must have been a constant source of discomfort to Crozier’s sleep. In a personal letter to  his friend and former commander, James Clark Ross, Crozier admitted his misgivings about the expedition and confided his deep loneliness. As I developed these plans, I repeatedly pictured Crozier writing alone in his uncomfortable little cabin, the most probable place for him to put down a very private last letter to his best friend.
 
References:
Ross, Sir James Clark
1847 A Voyage of Discovery and Research in the Southern and Antarctic Regions, During the Years 1839-1843: Volume I. John Murray, London.
 

I graduated from the internal stack to the height of the deck boards.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The whole process of this model is described at this address:
 
http://www.koga.net....php?f=7&t=45782
 
on Polish modeling forum "Koga"

Continuation. Holes for nails in the foredeck. Commenced construction of the lower deck aft.
 
 
 

 

 

 

Man you build fast!! How dit you shape the mast and can you make a detail pic of the mast?
 
Regards, Kees

Looks good. On your last pics it is good to see how the ship looks in total

Second layer of mat varnish done, with little artistic "patina"
 
Comparing to Svens`s pictures in post on previous page, and comparing with next picture of CS in Her present stage
 

 
I think I get what I want
 
On first picture, on the left side of model is original foil I use for comparing shine with "killed shine"
 

Second picture is with macro look of "patina"
 

 
Third and fourth pictures are here to show still presented but muted reflection of another color near hull (red surface on which She is laid to)
 

 

 
Let this sleep for a while, and after next two days trip on Monday, and then to decide about eventually next layer of varnish
 
In mean time ... it is obviously time to replace my phone which start to work irregular after more than a 3 years ( HTC Wildfire without S). What next phone will be ? That is today great philosophy, which need a lot of time and research to compare different models. I do not need or want phone as symbol of status (I do not care for this after 30 years of work - judges and clients know me very well and I can go on trials and meetings in jeans if I want), and do not want to burn 500-1000€ for such a thing, but want something good and reliable for reasonable amount of money. And there problem start. For instance, HTC Desire  X (which I prefer as a relative small one - I do not like phones with 1 m2 surface of screen - it looks silly when you use it as a phone - as you put a plate on your ear ) is Dual Core 1 Ghz and dimensions 118 x 62 x 9 mm, and at same prize are:  HTC Desire 310 which is Quad Core 1,3 Ghz , but 132 x 68 x 11 . and Huawei Ascend G630, same price, also Quad Core 1,2 Ghz , but 143 x 71 x 7,8 mm ... Where is the catch ?

Hello ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls of all ages - - gather around and let me tell you a story - - - - - the Eureka moment has arrived        the torpedo launcher compartment doors have been installed, the launcher has been tested for proper functioning (except the firing tests    )  and the paint touch-up is completed!  Champaign for everyone or a lighter refreshment for those who abstain 
 
Yep, this morning I glued the starboard door in place and while waiting for the glue to cure I started making another torpedo.  After lunch I tried the door and it worked just fine.  then I put the launcher in its place and tested the rotation of it over both doors on both sides.  I lucked out - - - again!  It worked as advertised!  I'm a happy camper!
 
I immediately started masking the port and starboard sides to spray paint the combat areas.  I put four coats of paint over everything to make it blend in with the existing paint.  It's looking pretty good, even close up. 
 
I guess I'll have to make a pair of boat hooks to help in closing the doors - - - i can hardly leave the strings on the doors now, could I ???
 
Okay, what's next on the agenda?  Well, there is the dingy yet to make but I think I'll be making the flags and the ensign first and install the O19 decals and the load marking decals.  Then install the antenna cables and could call the model completed.  
Hmmm, the dingy, well - - it could be on back order - - - but no, I'll make it too but as the final project as a separate model.  Hmmm - - - another build log?????  Perhaps not    There's a lot of thinking involved here, I'm an aircraft fixer / maker - - not a dingy maker    Oh well, we'll see what happens.
 
Here are a few pics of today's effort.  The first four pics are to demonstrate that the launcher really rotates freely over the opened doors.
 

This shows the torpedo launcher pinned into place and in the process of rotating inside into its stowed position and also for eventual reloading - port side.  
 

This shows the torpedo launcher in the process of rotating towards the front of the boat - port side. 
 

This shows the torpedo launcher in the process of rotating towards the front of the boat - starboard side. 
 

This shows the torpedo launcher in the process of rotating towards the aft inside into its stowed position and / or for reloading - starboard side. 
 

Here I have masked enough of the boat to touch-up paint the parts that needed paint.  I masked at the hard edges as much as possible to prevent a blending problem.  The few areas I left unmasked blended in okay, perhaps some whet sanding with 800 grit paper or just some "Bonami" or "Comet" scouring powder will do the trick if I see where it would improve the paint job.  
 

Here is the O19 with the masking paper and tape removed after the painting is completed.  I'm pretty happy with the results.  We are getting close now, eh whot?  
 
Cheers,

Looking great!