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Griphos

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Everything posted by Griphos

  1. Griphos
    Hmmm...shipping from these places is brutal! Twice the cost of the steel in some cases. Question for for those who know more: is there any reason not to use the cheapest square steel for these clamps? Does it have to be low carbon tool steel? Would cold rolled 1018 or 304 stainless work just as well, meaning as easily bent and drilled and tapped? I can find these steels on eBay for reasonable prices. I found 1/4” cold rolled plain steel bar listed cheap at a big box store not too far from me. No idea what grade. I may just take a Sunday drive to get it and experiment.
  2. Griphos
    That looks like a very good source. Thanks. As I said, I’m fairly ignorant about metals. The reference I have (here on the forum) mentioned F1 steel. I’m not finding that. But if I’m understanding correctly, it’s a special type of low-alloy tool steel, so I’m thinking the more common A- and O- grade steels, like the readily available A1, should work just fine for making clamps. I know they can be drilled and tapped. I’m assuming that bending is the issue. I think I’ll buy a short bar and try.
  3. Griphos
    Both of those sources look good. Thanks!
  4. Griphos
    Yes, like I said in my post, Google is failing me. I searched, as you did, but I actually clicked on dozens of the results and none of those links actually offer small steel bar stock, particularly 4mm size bar, or in F1 form. Most of them are about round rod, as indicated in the link titles. I tried a Google search with "-round" and didn't find anything that way either. I live out in the sticks, some distance from the nearest city, which is why I was trying to find an online source.
  5. Griphos
    Recent posts showing clamps made with 4mm steel bar stock and regular screws have me itching to try to make some for myself. But Google is failing me. I'm having a hard time finding small size steel bar stock, particularly F1 steel. Anyone have a US source for such stuff? I probably have a tap and die for the size screw I'll be using, and plenty of grooved dowels.
  6. Griphos
    Not to derail the topic, but that’s a lovely ferry/barge you built.
  7. Griphos
    Just put a few drops of the CA into an old milk carton cap or similar small receptacle. Dip the thread in. Replenish as necessary.
  8. Griphos
    What do you use for the bars? I suppose aluminum bar stock would work for these? Might be easier to drill and tap. Is is there a particular size and type of steel flat bar you use for the c-clamps? I’m ignorant when it comes to metal. Those look pretty easy to make, though.
  9. Griphos
    I use a little Ibex violin-maker's plane for edge planing as you describe. By hand if the planks are larger, or clamped upside down in a vise if smaller. Works well.
  10. Griphos
    This is just incredible work! Quite inspiring, both in terms of the quality of work, and the level of detail. Your ingenuity and creativity in methods and materials has taught me a great deal. i have a rather generic question that I hope won’t derail the topic. I’m particularly impressed with your metal work, something that is a mystery to me. Some I can tell is formed from brass sheet and rod and soldered and filed to shape. Some appears to be cut from thicker sheet stock, perhaps by hand, and filed to shape. But some appears to be turned. I’m wondering how you learned your metal fabrication methods. Is there a good resource book that teaches techniques specifically for scale ship models? Perhaps particularly for the lathe? I had a Taig lathe a number of years ago but never did really learn how to use it and eventually sold it.
  11. Griphos
    Stunning work! Where red did you get those wonderful little clamps, may I ask?
  12. Griphos
    I've been following this build with great interest. I appreciate the way you explain your thinking and planning processes. May I ask, what vise are you using in that picture. I’ve been looking for a little toolmakers vise with a nice knob like that.
  13. Griphos
    You can get skivers from Tandy leather or a good saddle making supply. I have a couple I use for leather work. They are not hard to operate. Basically an adjustable blade you pull the leather through.
  14. Griphos
    I've used aniline dye on wood projects in the past. Can't say I've liked it much to stain wood, but that means I have quite a bit of aniline dye powder laying around in the shop. I'll mix some up with alcohol and see how it does. Thanks for the tip. I've ordered one or two balls of Cordonnet 60, 70, 80 and 100 in ecru, so with the Aurifil 50wt spools I ordered, I should have a good start.
  15. Griphos
    I was just going to use Rit dye. I've used it before. But the Minwax idea is worth trying. I have a lot of Minwax around that I can try to see how it looks. And I'll pick up the two you mention as well. Thanks for the other tips on building up bigger lines. I'm slowly getting the idea, I think. Chuck says never to use only 2 strands, so I guess single strands, or 3-4 on each hook is the general rule. So, I think I'll try to find some Cordonnet Ecru in sizes 60-100 and get them before they're gone. I can get the larger sizes (Cebelia or Babylo in size 30) anytime I think. I ordered some of the Aurifil Chuck suggested in 50 wt in two colors. I couldn't find any Cebelia on eBay any smaller than 30, so you may have got the last of it! 🙂 Now I just need him to stop making so many blocks and get some more rope walks built. 🙂 (I should have clicked the order button when it was first in my cart and not dithered around wondering if I wanted to order some sample rope as well). I did wind up ordering some rope from him to rig my skipjack, so I'll have some idea of what I'm aiming for as well.
  16. Griphos
    Another question. I hope those knowledgeable will chime in on some of these. 🙂 If people use the 60-100 size Cordonnet thread, in white or ecru, and then dye it to look more realistic (tan or dark brown), do you dye it as thread and then make rope, or make rope and then dye it?
  17. Griphos
    I meant 1:24 to 1:64, or 1/2" to 3/16" scale, but mostly 1/4" scale. So, larger scale. If I'm doing my math correctly, most lines on ships in those scales will fall between about .01 to .08 actual size of model line. So, that's what I'm wanting to make. When you say 4" or 5" rope, I'm assuming you mean circumference. If I'm understanding correctly, again, a 5" circumference line at 1:96 would be about .016 or so in scale size. So, you use size 50 thread to make that. Extrapolating, that means maybe the size 30 Babylo or Cebelia thread wouldn't be too big for making the biggest lines I'd use. At 1:24, a 5" rope would be .065, and at 1:48, it would be .035 ish. Is it better to make bigger line from more strands of smaller thread, or 3 or 4 strands of larger thread. Sorry to pester with these questions, but I've never found a good source of information on rope making that discusses these sorts of things. They all discuss how to do it, or how to make a rope walk, etc. But info is scarce (as far as I've found) on types and sizes of thread to use. Anyway, I have a little more time for research. I just looked at my cart again and see that the rope walk was removed because out of stock. So I have to wait for Chuck to make a new batch. 🙂
  18. Griphos
    Do you mean the DMC Cebelia thread? Which DMC thread have people found work best for rope making? The Cordonnet comes in sizes as small as 100, but only seems available in white or ecru. Do people dye it? Even the ecru seems to light to me. The Babylo comes in sizes 10-30 in good colors and seems to have very little fuzz. The Cebelia comes in sizes 10-30 and seems a little fuzzier. But I'm just going from pictures on the internet. Are these sizes too large? What sizes should I look for to stock up for making rope in the 1/64 to 1/24 scale ranges? In other words, rope from about .008 to .035 ish when laid. I'm about to get Chuck's rope walk and want to try to get some thread that I can use for the right size ropes while they're still available, if possible. Chuck mentions Aurifil thread. I can find it in 50wt. I'll give that a try.
  19. Griphos
    Inspirational. You've done some fantastic work re-envisioning this model. It's great to have such full access to the prototype when doing the kind of detailing you are doing. The Bowdoin was always my favorite ship to look at when she was at Mystic for a while. Her lines are just so appealing to me, and her unique history. Bravo!
  20. Griphos
    Are you using the boxwood starter kit? Nice start. I like your building board.
  21. Griphos
    Well, in lieu of an actual build log, I thought I'd post a pic of the results of the color decisions I made. I decided on something like the hull red for the cargo hold, mixed up an off-white for the cabin interiors, and did a little staining of some other parts, particularly deck beams that will show when the removable cabins will be removed. I used the photos above as inspiration for the colors I used there. I wound up using some art markers, alcohol based, and they don't raise the grain and result in a nice, rich aged hardwood color.
  22. Griphos
    VERY helpful! Thanks very much! There's a nice video of the Joy Parks linked on that page as well. Nice details visible.
  23. Griphos
    Yes, I've mostly seen whitish and light colors as well. It does seem to help with the light. Still looking into cargo hold paint. I'm about to start painting the framing and interior hull an off white, though. Thanks for the advice so far.
  24. Griphos
    I did find the book, but since it's photos all appear to be black and white, I'm not sure that will help, so I'm reluctant to pony up the $60, although it does look like a great book in general. And I'm not sure there are many shots of interiors. I would love to visit the CMM, and perhaps one day I'll be in that area. I've read all the build logs here. Research continues. Nothing much turned up so far. Lots and lots of pictures of the OUTSIDE of these ships. :-) Does anyone know if cargo holds on these working boats were painted a particular color or used a protective paint similar to bottom paint? Or were they just painted with regular paint or left natural?
  25. Griphos
    Thanks. Working boat, for sure. I was planning on the duller red for the bottom. If anyone knows a good site of reference photos for working vessels, I'd like to learn of it. I've been to Mystic a number of times and been inside the ships there where it's allowed. White does seem common.

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