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Ryland Craze
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Everything posted by Ryland Craze
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I have never used a needle threader. I just coat the end of the line (about 1/2 inch) with some CA to stiffen it and cut the end of the coated line at an angle when the CA dries. The final steps will go by quickly and the next thing you know you will be finished. Not many steps left. -
Hi Floyd, I did serve the loop around the mast. This was explained in my post #174. Here is a link to that post: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19354-medway-longboat-1742-finished-124-scale-by-ryland-craze/?do=findComment&comment=775296 I have also attached a close-up picture showing the servings and seizings on my model: I studied the pictures from Chuck's build and will be glad to forward you some of the close up pictures of Chuck's model that I took at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conferences if it will help clarify things.
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Hi Greg and welcome to Model Ship World. I look forward to seeing your work with the 3-D printer.
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Floyd, I did exactly as Grant did. I seized the loop as I explained in my December 17th post around the mast. I seize the served line loop a little higher up on the mast so that when I slide it down the mast it tightens up. I also use diluted white glue on my seizings. I hope you and your family have an enjoyable Christmas holiday.
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Hi Shane and welcome to Model Ship World.
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Hi Dirk and welcome to Model Ship World. It is great that you are going to finish your Dad's model and that you shared his modeling interests. I know he enjoyed this.
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Hi Bob and welcome to Model Ship World. It is always nice when someone acquires a ship model in progress and completes the build. The Bluejacket Smuggler builds into a nice model. Please share your progress with us.
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I made the wire jig exactly as you explained. Measured the distance between the deadeyes from the plans. It worked very well for me.
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Very nice and clean looking. This is going to turn out to be a very good build.
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Your Longboat is looking good. You are heading toward the finish line. I stropped my deadeyes by forming the 24 gauge wire around the deadeye. I formed the strop so that the two ends met at the top of the deadeye. I trimmed the wire so that the two ends butted against each other. I then opened up the strop, applied some CA to the underside of the strop and squeezed the strop down into the grove in the deadeye. Be sure to insert the hook on the wire strope before you permanently close up the strope.
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Hi Ray and welcome to Model Ship World. Thank you for your service. Like you, most of us started modeling at a young age. Ask away and we will be glad to answer your questions.
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New Member Rock Harris: An Introduction
Ryland Craze replied to rock harris's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Rock and welcome to Model Ship World. I have never built a solid hull ship model so I cannot answer your question which is best to start with, a solid hull or plank on bulkhead/frame ship model. -
Floyd, I do my seizings the way my father taught me to tie flys to my fly fishing line. I found a picture that best illustrate this: I found the above image at this website: https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-sn-shopnotes/smf-sn-seizing?tmpl=%2Fsystem%2Fapp%2Ftemplates%2Fprint%2F&showPrintDialog=1 I usually do six turns of cotton thread. Here is a YouTube video link of this process: Also, John Earl has an excellent article explaining his method of seizing on his website located here: https://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html There are many ways to do this. I use watered down white glue to coat my seizings and once dry, snip the tails of the seizing line close to the loops of the seizing. I prefer not to use CA on my rigging. Rigging was very enjoyable on my model.
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Hi Jimmy and welcome to Model Ship World. You have some enjoyable hobbies and you have come to the right forum to help you build your wooden ship model skills. We are glad to have you aboard.
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Hi Dan and welcome to Model Ship World. The Lowell Dory is an excellent kit to start your journey in building wooden ship models. The other kits in the series will help you build your skills.
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Hi Rico and welcome to Model Ship World. You have built some nice models and your experience with ships and boats will help you with your future models.
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You could glue some scrap pieces of wood to the outer edges of the build board where the transom meets the build board. This would keep the transom parallel to the build board and also keep it from rocking side to side.
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I struggle using blackening agents. I used Jax at full strength and immediately rinse in water after removing from the blackening solution (usually less than 10 seconds in blackening solution). I wipe the part off and let dry, then repeat the process until I get the desired tone of black and then hope and pray the blackening does not wipe off.
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Zack, Nice start to your Pram. Before you go any further, I would do something to the stern transom supporter to get it to sit at a ninety degree angle to the build board. The stern transom should be parallel to the build board. I normally do not like modifying jigs, but I would think the transom should sit flush with the build board. Something looks off.
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The 18 and 22 gauge copper wire that I got from Michael's did not have a plastic coating on it. I did sand it with fine sand paper and soaked it in acetone prior to blackening it. I had purchased some 28 gauge wire from Model Expo many years ago that was black in color. I did a google search and found many places that sell the black annealed wire, but you would have to pay for shipping which adds to the cost.
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Floyd, I have purchased wire from Hobby Lobby and Michaels in their beading departments. You can probably find it online also.
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Hi Greg and welcome to Model Ship World. The technological advancements in CNC and 3D printing have produced some amazing results. Definitely a plus to learn this technology.
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For my thimbles, I cut the 1/16" brass tubing slightly longer than 1/16". A thimble is not needed on the horse because the block is seized to the horse. The sheet that is run through the blocks is extra long and this allows the boom to move port and starboard. I have heard of making the eye bolts the way you are doing and it definitely would be a lot stronger than forming a loop on the end of the wire, which is the way I did it. Seven eye bolts are correct.
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Hi Floyd. It sounds like you are making good progress on your Medway Longboat. I enjoyed the rigging progress. I used seven thimbles on my Medway. They were used at the following locations: One each on the two blocks at the upper part of the mast; One each for the backstay tackle; One for the peak halliard; One each at the foresail halliard and jib halliard. I made many more thimbles than the seven that I used. This way, I could pick out the best ones to use on the model. I am looking forward to seeing some pictures of your model.
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Hi Chris and welcome to Model Ship World. I had a look at your Atlantic build log and you are doing a good job building this model.
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