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Ryland Craze

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Everything posted by Ryland Craze

  1. Congratulations Derek. I am going to miss your updates and the discussions that your posts generated. Your build log is packed with many tips, photos and techniques and will serve as a valuable resource for a modeler building a ship model in this era. You have built a model that you will be proud of and will bring back many wonderful memories every time you look at it. I am looking forward to your next build, whatever it may be. Thanks for letting us follow along on this build.
  2. I have used Elmer's Wood Filler in the tube and it has worked very well for me. The natural color is a perfect match for the yellow cedar that I used on my Medway Longboat.
  3. Should not be a problem. I am sure that most builds had the thwart glued to the hull before drilling the hole for the brace. I sometimes do it differently than what the instructions call for. Sometimes it works out for me, sometimes not.
  4. Welcome to Model Ship World Eurus. You are off to a good start in this hobby. Your whaleboat looks nice. I look forward to your future builds.
  5. Thanks Chuck and Grant for your comments and also for the "Likes". Chuck, my goal is to have it finished for Modelcom in Philly in three weeks. A little rigging, some rope coils and finishing the oars is all I have left to do plus the stand.
  6. Hi Joseph and welcome to Model Ship World. The Constitution by Revell is a nice kit to get started in this hobby. I look forward to your build log.
  7. A little progress on my Medway Longboat. I have finished the ironwork on the bowsprit, installed the forward thwart and knees and installed the bowsprit. I used a miniature jewelers file for the support brace hole in the thwart and forward platform. As Chuck said in the instructions, you only have one chance to get it right. I was glad that I had not glued the platform and thwart to the hull as I was able to work with these off the model. I took my time and was happy with the outcome. I blackened the support bar and used some weathering powder on it. I also pinned the bowsprit to the caprail where it would not be seen. Next step is to make the traveler ring and a couple of hooks and then rig the jib halliard and outhaul. Only two pages left in the instructions.
  8. Hi Icksa and welcome to Model Ship World. You did a very nice job on building your first wooden ship model. I hope you start a build log on your Terror as we would like to follow your progress on your build.
  9. Welcome to Model Ship World. I look forward to seeing pictures of your current build.
  10. Congratulations on finishing this beautiful model. I echo all of the wonderful comments about your build. Your build log will be an inspiration for me when I build my Cheerful. Thanks for sharing your work with us.
  11. Welcome to Model Ship World Ian. You have a lot of experience with modeling and you should do just fine building a wooden ship model. There are many build logs of the Caldercraft Sherbourne on MSW which should aid you in building your model. The best advice I can give you is to start a build log of your Sherbourne. Here you will be able to post your progress and ask questions about your build. Our members are all willing to help.
  12. Hi magman and welcome to Model Ship World. You have received good advice from the member posts above and I look forwarding to seeing what your first ship model project is.
  13. Congratulations on completing this model. It is very well done and you should have no problems building the pram.
  14. Hi Mike and welcome to Model Ship World. Enjoyed the introduction and glad you have joined us. Sounds like Perth would be a nice place to visit.
  15. The fixed block at the stem is used in the rigging of the bowsprit. The outhaul is attached to the traveler ring on the bowsprit, it runs through the sheave at the end of the bowsprit, back to the fixed block and then tied off at the first thwart.
  16. Hi Floyd. I am glad to see you back at your workbench and working on your Medway Longboat. You are correct that the 1/8" x 1/16" laser cut strips are used to support the bottom edge of the windlass bracket. Chuck gives you four on the sheet, but you only need two, one for each side. I have attached a template for the windlass that I scanned from my plans. Make sure that the length of the template is 4 3/4" long as different printers may print at different scales than what the document was scanned at. As far as the wood needed to do another windlass, you will have to get it from Chuck or you could order it from Modeler's Sawmill, the Company that supplies Chuck with all of his wood needs. Here is a link to their website: http://www.modelerssawmill.com/milled-wood-strips.php As a side note, Chuck is on vacation until the middle of next week. You mentioned that you have finished all of your thwarts. I finished all of mine, but only glued in the thwart as needed during construction. I am farther along in the construction of my Longboat and I have only glued in the first, fourth (with mast hole) and the eighth thwart. I just glued in the first thwart last night as I have finished the bowsprit and the ironwork attached to it. The others are dry fitted and I have removed them so that I can get my fingers in the hull during rigging without the thwart being in the way. I will glue the others in when I finish the rigging. Not saying this is the right way, but it is working for me. I am looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress. Windlass Template.pdf
  17. Hello and welcome to Model Ship World. Mark has given you good advice on searching for a build log for your particular model. Check out this post regarding carving a bevel from the bearding line to the keel:
  18. I hope you will continue your build log. It is an excellent resource for current and future builders of this kit. You have done an excellent job on building this model and your build log is well documented.
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