Ryland Craze

A bit more progress on the deck.  I've decided to go with your advice Cathead and try the individual planks.  As you say, it's more work but hopefully it will give a better and more consistent finish.  After cutting the planks to size I'm ready to start fitting them.  Thought I would start in the middle and work towards one edge.  The first couple of rows were straightforward and went on well but then one of the planks was slightly wider than the others.  Unfortunately I didn't realize this until the glue had set so couldn't swap it for one the same size as the previous planks.  I guess there is a tolerance in the veneer strips which the planks are cut from.  If I were applying them as whole strips you would never tell the difference because they would be consistent along the entire length.  As I'm now taking random planks from a pile made up of multiple strips I can get different width planks.  Fortunately the gap wasn't really that noticeable so managed to recover without it looking too bad.  I've now finished planking the main deck and I think it looks okay.
 
Chimp
 
 
 

Personally, I feel like individual planks always look better; the eye can distinguish a real gap from a fake one. However, that's obviously a lot more work. If you do decide to mark rather than cut, perhaps consider using a file to score a "gap" at each plank end that you then darken with pencil; that way there's at least a hint of three-dimensional joint there. It'll also be more consistent, as the eye will probably notice the difference between the actual junction on the long side and the fake junction at the short end. This is something you could practice on the reverse side of the veneer until you work out a method you like. 

After leaving the spine to 'rest' for a couple of days to see if the bend returns, it looks like things are looking good.  There is a very slight bend but nothing to worry about, at least that's what I'm telling myself.  I've decided to progress with the build as is.  I've now added the reinforcing blocks to the bow and stern to aid planking.  I've marked out the deck with a 1-3-5-2-4 butt shift.  This seems to be the most sensible sequence as far as I can tell.  The kit instructions are indicating a 60mm plank length, which at 1/60 scale would equate to 11' 10" (12-foot).  Not sure if this is correct but it looks okay to me (but then I quite ignorant on these things).

Many thanks for your suggestion Jaager, but being very much a novice at this and not having tools for metal working I think I should stick to the original plans.  Looking at the spine today it's still looking very straight so I think I may be lucky with this one  

Update on the curved spine:
 
I moistened the spine then bent it back straight and allowed it to dry.  This took out the curve (albeit temporarily, time will tell).  I've now cut out the bulkheads and done a trial run fitting them together.  They fitted together without any forcing and when the deck was fitted the was little or no adjustment to be made.  I won't get the time to fit any planks for the next few days so I won't glue anything just yet, and see if it warp returns.  If it's still straight in a couple of days time then I'll glue the bulkheads and start the planking.  Once the planking is started, my hope is that any movement will be constrained.
 
Chimp
 

Don’t underestimate how much that spine wants to ‘spring-back’, I have the same kit partially built, and have the exact same problem.  I used heat to straighten it and held it clamped straight whilst adding the bulkheads, I also inserted filler blockers on both sides between each bulkhead, which should have locked it sufficiently, a week later a small curvature was evident, and this was with some planking that was put in place whilst all clamped up.
 
I’d suggest giving it a few days after straightening to allow it to re-acclimatise to its internal tensions so you can see what residual warp if any you are dealing with.
 
Gary
 

Hi Jaager, just had a quick look and found some information on this site which you've commented on.  I guess this is what you meant  
Many thanks
Chimp
 
 
 

Hi guys, thanks for your comments.  The Beagle replica in Chile looks fascinating Cathead, thanks for the link to your photos.
 
Regarding the warp to the spine, I've tried to bend it back flat which has worked but I take your point Jaager that it will probably only be a temporary fix and it will ultimately revert back to the warped state over time.  I do like the sound of a mechanical support which will physically hold it in position.  Fitting supports at each spine/bulkhead join should do the trick - thanks for the tip.
 
Jaager, your comment about the deck is interesting.  The kit is supplied with a plywood deck which is then laid with plank veneers.  I guess I can have whatever deck butt pattern I wish.  I currently know nothing about what would be realistic for this time.  Where you say "read here about butt shift rules..." was that meant to be a link?  I would be interested to learn more about what is realistic and how best to achieve it.
 
Thanks again for your comments.
 
Chimp

Hi guys,
 
Here we go, starting my second ship.  My first ship was HM Schooner Ballahoo, but I didn't make a build log for that one.  To be honest I didn't think I would get very far with it.  However, I did complete it and was quite happy with the result.  During the build I relied very heavily on the build logs of others (especially The Lazy Saint) and now realize how important and useful build logs are to people new to the hobby.  I'm obviously hoping this build goes well and I can get it completed.  I must admit I'm still having problems with a lot of the nautical terms and the whole thing is a learning process for me.
 
I started making plastic models of aircraft as a young boy back in the 60s and 70s (my father was in the Royal Air Force).  That continued for many years, eventually moving on to military fighting vehicles in the 80s and 90s.  Then last year, after a few years of deliberation, I took the plunge and got my first wooden ship, which as I said turned out okay.  Now I'm converted  
 
Chimp
 
 

Count me in 🤣

I'd be interested, too. I have one on the way; just biding my time due to my eye issues. Should be good in 6 weeks or so.

I will be in for a group build. I was contemplating a scratch cross section (and still might), but I’d definitely enjoy a group build on this.

Yes, that would be very interesting.  I'm wondering if there are any period references out there.  I'm going to take a look in "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by John Harland.

I restored a model very similar to this many years ago for a cousin of mine. What I remember most is that it was rigged with human hair!

Wow, this is a challenge to say the least. Interested to see how you will do it.

Hello Jose, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

Main mast added 

Also really cool, torpedoes, these are behind doors at the front section of the hangar superstructure 

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A few photos I wanted to add, directly below the bridge wing are deflectors which I’ll assume make a large cross section when deployed. Nearly all modern photos show 2 on each side but the kit has one. Also some chaff dispensers. 

Welcome back, Kev. I hope you enjoy being back in the shipyard.
 
I grew up in Elwood many years ago but I've been living in California for over 50 years now. Noblesville was tiny community way back then. My sister lives in Fishers. It's hard for me to believe how much that whole area has changed over the years. 
 
Good luck on your build.

Welcome back!  I consider myself a newer member compared to a lot of the members here, but I wouldn’t try and align to any way of logs and just do your own thing.  By the sounds of it the way your backgrounds affect how you would do your log seem the best way of doing things.  I’ll be interested in seeing your log as that was my first wood model I built.

Welcome back home, Kev.  As Chris said, set up your build log the way it suits you.
 
John

Welcome back! What style you choose for your reconstructed log is up to you. Have fun!

I originally joined MSW back in the fall of 2010 going by the name Firebirds.  I had started a build log of my very first build, Bounty’s Jolly boat by AL.  All these years later I’m getting the itch to pick up where I left off.  I plan on recreating that build log as I saved all text and photos.  I wonder if I should recreate it as is/was or edit the text to better align with my sampling of current build logs.  My style was a bit different back then and even more so from what I currently see.  It might be fun for some to see what was as it was back then.  I’ll leave it up to those who choose to comment.
 
What I mean is I approached my build log based upon a couple facets of my background.  From my engineering documentation side I wanted to ensure that when I decided the log is complete it would contain all details of each step from the opening of the box to completion/display.  From my coaching side I wanted to make sure that I not only showed what I did and how I did it, but more importantly why I was doing it that way.  It also contains some conversations I had with myself.
 
I’ve left out quite a few details in this reintroduction to the group.  Specifically how I got to where I was when I closed dry dock and what happened to regain the itch to start again.  Hopefully I will be allowed to fill in the blanks in later posts.
 
Ping to the current member know as Peanut:  If my current identification name gives you any moment of pause (as it could pose some confusion), please let me know and I’ll see what magic the moderators can do to take care of the situation.  The last thing I want to do is be the cause of any waves.
 
Take care and be safe,
 
kev

Small update this time.  Completed the upper capstan with some mods that I saw in TFFM even though I couldn’t do it nearly as well. 
 
also decided that I wanted to add pumps as I’ve seen in other builds.  These I made 100% from scratch.  The most difficult part was the portion that holds the handle. I’m actually quite happy with the effect I was able to achieve.  Feeling much better making my own pieces where I can! 

 
cheers all,
Tim