Ryland Craze

Hi Mark,
 
I think I'm in the minority as I use contact cement when I copper a hull.  I buy it in 3 ounce bottles, which keeps the fumes down and also apply it with the windows open. The bottle contains a small brush for application.  I brush a thin covering onto the hull - a 3x3 or 4X4 area. I then apply it to each copper plate - yes it's time consuming. By then - approximately 15 minutes - the glue on the hull has begun to cure and I then copper the hull.
 
I like contact cement because I have a few minutes to reposition the plates after I apply them if necessary, as opposed to Ca which instantly dries. If any cement does adhere to a plate I simply and easily peel/rub it off. Finally should it be necessary to slightly adjust or remove a plate after they completely dry I heat the plate with a soldering iron on low heat adjust or replace it.
 
Any questions, don't hesitate.
Keep up the great work.
Hope this helps,
Mort    

Hi all I know this was not on the list of WIPs I asked if you wanted but it's one of my favourite genres (this one based on my own bike from way back when)
Once I had progressed from my first bike a Raleigh runabout (how many of you can remember them) I went on to the giddy hights of a honda c90 after a couple of years I progressed to a cz 125 an kwak 550 then the amazing honda (I will admit I was a bit of a nutter back then)(hence the name kpnuts) I will admit I did some stupid stuff back then which resulted in it being dropped a few times I've added the wear and tear I gave this bike in the build. Hope you like it.
Incidentally these 1/6 tamiya kits are amazing.
 

Heres another update 

On to Step 4. Measured the gap between the 1/8” wale strip and the 1/8” keel strip and determined that twenty-two (22) 1/8” strips will be required to fill the space. This compares favorably with the 22 to 23 planks in the instructions. So far, its true to form (see photo).

Next, I measured the gap at bulkhead “N” and divided it by 22 strips to determine the width of each plank at the bow. Each plank will have to be tapered to about 6” at 3/16” scale, which is roughly 3/32”.
 
I measured the distance along the stern post and under the counter using a piece of dental floss. Stretched out, the corresponding length of floss is +/-29” at a 1/8” scale. So, around 29 planks will be required to cover the stern area.  
 
Added 4 planks below the initial 3 under the wales on the port and starboard sides. After tapering, I soaked the planks in water and attached them to the hull temporarily with push pins, Acco binder clips, and clamps. I held the planks in-place at the stern with an Irwin Quick-Grip clamp - this is the most difficult area for securing the planks. The plank formed nicely with the counter, which eased the horsing of the plank around the counter. I left the planks longer at the counter, as I will cut them later when I install the counter planks. Note: The Acco binder clips shown in the photo were made by taking the arm from one clip and inserting it into another clip. I got this Idea from rtopp's Syren build log. These clips are very useful. Like he and some other builders I purchased the MS planking clamps (for my prior build) and found them useless.

At the keel, I added 5 planks on each side in addition to the initial 3. I added a stealer, cut into the 4th plank on each side – these are tricky. I did some initial sanding while waiting for glued planks to dry.


Completed the second layer of the wales (2 - 5/32” x 1/16” thick lower wales and 1 -5/32” x 1/32” thick upper wale) and the sheer strake (1/8” x 1/32” thick).  Like the planks, I cut the wale strips on an angle and chamfered them to fit into the rabbet at the stem. I preformed them by soaking them in water then clamping them to the jig.  The wale strips were glued on top of the first layer of wales and held in-place with clamps and clips. I left the wales and sheer strake longer at the counter, as I will cut them later when I install the counter planks.
 
Next, the treenails. I followed the instructions and lightly drew some vertical lines on the planks representing the center of each bulkhead. I used an awl to mark each treenail, following the general pattern shown in the photo on Page 24 of the instructions. The holes will be drilled later with a .55 mm (0.0217”) bit and then filled with Minwax Golden Oak wood putty.  I made a test sample to see how the treenails will look after puttying and then staining with Minwax  Golden Oak stain.  Whence the treenails are drilled, I think  the combination of the Golden Oak putty and Golden Oak stain will be okay.  As a general note, the treenail pattern is a matter of personal design and consideration for what was common practice in ship building in the 17th century. I'm satisfied with the treenail pattern.
 
Except for the counter at the stern, which I opted to hold-off on completing, the model is complete through Step 5 of Chapter 5.

Bow filler blocks as recommended by Bob Hunts Practicum.  This gave me practice shaping a block of wood which I haven’t done in years. 

 
I plan on starting to fair the bulkheads tomorrow as well as sanding the deck. Hopefully will get the burns marks off during this process as well. If anyone has tips for fairing please do let me know.
 
Thanks
Tony

Spent a few hours dry fitting and ultimately gluing the bulkheads in place. They had a very snug fit and during my first test fit didn’t even allow me to put them in place. After several hours of slow sanding and filing I was able to get all bulkheads in place for a good test fit.
 
The waterline matched each perfectly and I felt good about gluing the, in place. 
 
 

 
During the process I broke off a small piece on the bow and a very narrow piece where the masts fit. I will glue them on once everything dries over the next day.
 
 

Ok so cutting the bulkhead from the sheet turned out to be an all day chore. The laser didn’t go all the way through so I cut each one individually. If that wasn’t enough the fit of the bulkheads is so tight they don’t got all the way down even with the deck. I meticulously was able to file 7 of them which made them fit evenly albeit very tight. I guess that will be good when it comes time to gluing and squaring them up.
 
I marked the hull and measured out the waterline. Calling it a day. I have 6 more bulkheads to fit tomorrow before I begin assembling.
 
If anyone sees this, do the bulkheads usually fit his tight.? 
 
 

Spent today creating the filler blocks in the bow and stern. A lot of carving and sanding but I’m pleased with how it came out. I will finish the shaping when I begin fairing the bulkheads.
 
 



 
 

Today I gave er a good cleaning followed by a minor paint touch up! Made up the stern transom port covers, painted waiting to dry.  Then I did up a signage proto by mounting ``Syren` onto a thin black board. I kinda like it because now it is more visible with more 3d. This is just a test using 2 sided tape 
 

fiddled with the fuselage this morning,  while looking through logs........which reminds me.   you know......I went through every log I watch last night......cleaned them all up.  I come in this morning,  and it's all clogged up again!  you guys gotta slow down.....or I gotta speed up........you darn folks are soooooooo prolific!    keep it that way!
 
anyway........I knew heat would be needed.......and I was going to get the admiral's hair dryer.......   but it's like going to get a screw driver,  and com'in back with a hammer.......I used my lighter!  it was like a flame thrower!......I moved it around quick enough,  I thought.....till I saw the bottom panel of the fuselage half starting to curl .....oh ph........  I got most of it to conform,  but the damage was done..........I'll just have to see how bad.  so I cemented the halves together,  except for the area at the cowl.......got to let it dry

while I was waiting,  I figured I'd assemble the engine.  the Dr 1 was powered by a Le Rhone 9J engine.  later planes were equipped with Oberursel Ur.II engines....both of these engines were fairly equal to one another,  putting out around 110 Hp.
started by assembling the two halves together
I also thought about the machine guns.  thinking of what to do with the naked guns,  I though of that piece of grating came in the Agillis kit  {the Clotilda}.
I thought this would be perfect!
measuring and cutting the strip needed for the guns........

finding a suitable dowel,  it was cut and wrapped....made round by press rolling it on the table

and what you have is this........

happy about how it came out,  I cemented the 9 heads and tail shaft on the engine.
  
the other machine gun was finished........

now dry....the body joints were sanded with two different grits.  the melted part of the slot was cut out.  the short section by the cowl was cemented and taped........the admiral and I took Gibbs for a good walk.  when we got back,  that area was cleaned up some and sanded.
  
at this point,  it's down to fitting the bottom wing root and seeing how much more I'll need to do.  I thought I still had that old tube of filler,  but I must have thrown it away.   that stuff was plenty old......it had begun to separate.  I thought of auto body filler....but that's a tiny bit......not worth dealing with.   saying the heck with it,  the other side of that slot was trimmed out.  the lip wasn't flush at the edge of the slot.....it wasn't cemented either.  so,  I added cement to the joint there,  and created weighted 'prying' situation for it,  to bring the joint flush with one another.  the  extra tot of cement should fill in the void                                               

now I guess I'll write this log,  and then go shopping {make the admiral happy}.  I'll check this out when  I get back.

@Dziadeczek
Hello, Thomas,
thank you for your extremely well-intentioned comment.
I was very pleased, of course also about the many LIKES.
 
Hello dear model building friends, 
here it goes on with small steps.

I make the ratlines on my own rope making machine from japanese silk yarn 100/2 (2 x 3), which gives a rope diameter of 0,35 mm.



After the preparations, the first ratlines were made.  

OK, have just put the Fifie Lady Eleanor on pre-sale. I expect the printed material next week, and all orders will be sent out as soon as I have the plans, manual and box label delivered.
 
I have 14 kits in stock and 12 pre-stitched sail sets in stock.
 
https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/order-fifie-lady-eleanor/
 

Deck fittings, small guns, final rigging and some ladders. Tomorrow the railings 

Next up it was time to add the second layer of spirketting (the lower two strakes) and the 7/32" wide plank above the ports.  I used planks that were the same width but just 1/32" thick.  You can even sand them thinner if you like.   I also added the aft shell for fixed block.  See it forward of the panelling?  This should be added at this stage so you can plank the second layer around it.
 
Note how I also added one more 1/32" second layer strake above that 7/32" wide strip.  The top edge follows along the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp.  I use various width strips because you will need to taper it.  It is not a consistent width.  Just make sure the top edge is flush with the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp.  MOST important....look at the forward end of this additional trip.  Notice where it starts in relationship to the first notch in the deck clamp.  This is important because it will aid you later when we build the platforms for the gangways.

Here is a view of the bow area.  Same things apply.  Notice where the aft end of the plank ends in this instance.   Once again it is even with that first notch.

Sand everything smooth and prep the bulwarks for painting.  Then paint it red.   But dont paint the fancy panels aft.  Here is what my model looks like at this stage.  I still have to complete the port side....havent started planking that yet.  

Main and secondary batteries 

A quick post this evening. The frames and floors are in, except in way of the centerboard trunk. Those floors will butt the bed logs, so I wanted the trunk in place first. There will be two sets of frames left.

I laid the trunk drawing out on a piece of vellum, overlaid on the lofting, and built the trunk right on top of the drawing.

The head ledges were cut out and held in place with the trusty old lead ducks. Those things are as handy as a flashlight to have around for things other than drafting.
I glued the top two planks of the case sides on first, with the ledges spaced carefully apart, then the thicker bed log (scribed to fit the keelson’s curvature), then last a tapered plank to close the trunk side. The ducks again hold the parts in place while the glue sets.


After gluing the first side, I trimmed the ends of the planks flush, and cut the top of the ledges. It slipped into the keelson notches without too much fussing.
 

 

So I still have to plank the other side, and try hard to not forget about the PIVOT BOLT before I install the trunk! That would be a problem to get right after the fact. I will have to decide how I want to engineer the pivot. I have my own method, which involves plumbing nipples and caps, and works great, but might not be period appropriate.
I welcome any comments or criticism. Thanks for looking.
 

Hi Roger,
Yes, Chapelle shows chunks, but my assumption was that most recent boats ( by that I mean mid 20th c.) were staved instead of chunked. The chunks were a holdover from earlier times. Larry Chowning in his book "Deadrise and Cross Planked" states that head blocks or "chunks" were a holdover from log canoe days, and that builders soon went to staves. However, I realized after planking the ends of this model that chunks in this particular case might be preferable, because the staves are so short. The chine in this case does not climb very high on the stem. Also, I couldn't get my mind around the junction of the head block, chine logs, and keelson. Most bateaux, and other deadrise boats after about 1940(?) were staved up, and some like Maryland crab scrapes were even planked fore and aft right up in the bow. This pic below is of a Carl Pedersen built bateau that Joe Gregory drew in the early 70's that is now in the Deltaville museum. So, I think there are examples of both. I'd like to ask John England (Deltaville boat shop manager and board member) his opinion about staving vs. head block construction for some of the lower chined boats like this one.
 
 

At any rate, I appreciate the discussion about this or anything else that comes to mind. I think that if I build a model from the Chapelle bateau drawings that I have in my flat files, I'll try the chunks.
Thanks!

Thanks for the comment, John. And thanks to those looking in and hitting the like button!
 
I had a bit of work to get the planking at the sheer cut down and fair with the sheer clamp, and with the correct bevel. My usual procedure is to make a master deck crown template, and use that everywhere to set the sheer bevel. That doesn’t work on all decks, like turtle backs, or decks with a variable crown, but for many traditional, half decked boats, it works fine. For the model, I went a step further and lined the radius edge with 120 grit sandpaper, so that once the sheer is close I can use the radius block like an automatic fairing tool. It can be used side to side, and fore and aft. As long as the plane doesn’t over cut the bevel, the sanding tool does a great job of hitting the bevels exactly.

 

With that done, I turned to the framing layout. After thinking about this design for a while, I decided to make some small changes in the layout, to suit myself, as if I were building this full size skiff for my own use. This is not a set of lines taken from an existing hull as Chapelle often did, but a new design of his based on the double ended crab skiffs of the day. Also, this is clearly a yacht, rather than a working boat, so I wanted to make it comfortable. I am eliminating the bridge deck, and fitting in it’s place a thwart, set a little lower down. This makes possible a set of rowlocks, and opens up the forward area somewhat. Also, I’m coupling the floor framing with the side frames, rather than space them as shown in Chapelle’s drawings. The interval is still very close to that detailed, and the structure is stronger. It makes sense to locate a floor and frame at each end of the centerboard trunk, tying those structures together. The frames at the forward end of the trunk will also be tied to the deck beam that defines the aft end of the forward deck. Likewise, I put a set of frames at the aft deck opening. Without the bridge deck, the floorboards can be continuous, and I set them up so that the tops of all the floor framing is coplanar. So there is now a 12’ stretch of flat, unbroken sole for the entire length of the cockpit. To do that, I took the midship floor height off of the drawings, then used a straight edge to locate the tops of the foremost and aftermost floors at equal heights, and in line with the midship floor. My crab skiff Cricket has a sole like this, and I loved it.

So I’ve got the layout figured, and I’m busy with the fiddly job of fitting all the framing. This vee bottom is pretty simple, and I use a temporary pattern “bulkhead” clamped to a little block that is held to the keelson with a drop of glue. I use a little gauge of consistent width to create offset lines which I then transfer to my framing stock. On a full size boat, I use little tabs and hot glue, but that is not practical here. I think my method is apparent from the pics.
 


 

Fitting frames and bulkheads to a round bilged, lapstrake hull is another matter entirely. This one is comparatively easy. Note the pics of frame templates, and finished frames in my Matinicus Double Ender, below.


So I’ve got a bit of work ahead of me, before I can begin the deck framing. I realized that in my haste, I had forgotten to cut limbers in the floors at the keelson, so I’ll have to go back and put them in where I’ve forgotten them. They are curiously absent from the otherwise well detailed Chapelle drawings.
Stay tuned….
Cricket
 

Thanks everyone for your comments and for the "Likes".  I am really appreciative of those Medway Longboat builders that have created build logs as I refer to them often to see how they constructed a certain component of their build.  This has helped me in my build.
 
Michael and Jean-Paul, I like the Grumbacher Red as it gives a low sheen, almost matt finish.  I like the red color as it does not have the orange tint that some of the reds do.
 
Don, thank you for checking out my post and for your comment.  I am very pleased with the model and I cannot wait to see it finished.  This is a really nice kit and the instructions and materials are first class.
 
Bob and Rich, my paint job is far from perfect, but I am very happy with it.  The thin coats are the key to getting a good paint job.  I must have around 20 coats of paint on this model and it is just like painting with water colors.  I feel the more that you paint, the better your technique gets.
 
Bill, thanks for your comment.  I am following your progress on your Cheerful as I have this model on my shelf and considering it for my next build.
 
Chuck, the cedar has worked out great.  The WOP over the cedar has made it look like boxwood and I have used your technique for the painting.  I am striving to get to your level of craftsmanship, but realize that I am no where near that.  However, just trying has made me a better modeler than not trying at all.
 
Thanks everyone for looking in.  Please stay safe and wishing everyone the best of health and happiness.

We are primed, and the waterline marked. First pic below shows 1 coat, before sanding. I added more filler in places after this coat.

I set up my laser to shoot the waterline, blocking it up until I was even with the building strongback on the bench. Then I shimmed the strongback up level with the laser line.


At that point, I just measured up from the strongback to a point on the hull that corresponded to the designed waterline, and then added blocks and paper shims under the laser to get us up to the marked DWL, and put a row of pencil ticks along the hull, repeated on the other side.

I used a batten to mark the line, sheering the line slightly at the ends, about a scale 3/4”. Just enough to give a little lift, so it doesn’t appear to droop.
 

I won’t paint the bottom yet. I need to get some paints together and make some test panels. To that end, I prepped a few boards.

I think I’ll be using Golden acrylics, because I have a good collection of colors, and I think we have some matte medium and retarder, etc. around the house. I’d like to try the Vallejo paint, but don’t want to spend the $ right now. Golden is pretty good paint. I have some tube, and some liquid acrylics. At any rate, first it’s time to flip and work on the interior!
 

We are all planked up. That was a lot of work, for a relatively simple boat. I believe that I could build a full size boat in about the same amount of time. Same number of parts, anyway. There are 120 planks in the bottom of this 20’ crab skiff!
The nice flat run of planking was pretty easy, but as I got near the ends there was a bit of twist, so I had to rip some thicker planking stock, and carve a little relief in the undersides so the planks would sit flat on the chines and keelson. I planked all 4 corners with staving, then planked the bottom to within one plank, and cut a tapered “shutter” that was a tight fit. That was satisfying, driving the last one of those up tight.


 


There was quite a bit of shaping to do on the outside in the ends, to fair in the thicker staving, and to maintain a clean, fair rabbet and chine. For the chine, I connected the line at the stem to the fair run of planking with a batten, and penciled in a line, then with a sharp chisel, pared the planks down to the line.

I had to resort to some filler, but I thought it more important to have a fair hull.
I think that I will scribe a line at the plank seams so they will show up under paint. For the bottom planking, I’ll let a little darker paint fill the scribed lines to show them up. Most deadrise boats that I’ve looked at up close show pretty pronounced plank seams, where the bottom paint is worn but the seams have stayed dark red copper. For sure I don’t want the boat to look like plywood, after I’ve gone to the trouble of laying traditional plank!



 

At this point, I need to finish sanding all over, and I’ll go ahead and use gesso primer on the hull, before I flip her over. Plus, I’ll get my waterline scribed while I have the boat all leveled on the jig. Thanks for tuning in.
 

Skeg, foregripe, and stems are fitted and glued on. That was a bit of a chore, when I’m anxious to get planked up, but its done.



I use this Versa Vise knockoff above quite a bit. It's an import, but works well. The bowstem is clamped up here to tune up the fit.

While I was staring at the ends of the boat, and thinking about the staving to come, I started cutting and fitting staves to see how it might go. Boy, this is difficult. Way harder than any lapstrake planking I’ve done. I’m almost reluctant to show the pictures, because the difficulty is so apparent. I like the process of boat building to at least appear like it was no sweat, but not so here. I know I can make things look good in the end, but seeing how the sausage is made can be brutal (and photography at this scale is pretty unflattering). Anyway, I’m having to resort to a little filler. I think I’ll get better at it. I’ve got 3 more quadrants to go. The staving in a deadrise boat has to be worked thick, and hewn out on the inside to address the twist, then dubbed off on the outside as well. The pieces are so tiny that they are hard to grip, plus the bevels on each end make them get too short real quick. I think I’ll try chunks rather than staving next time. But, I’m clear to finish planking the bottom now, working from amidship towards each end. There’s a lot of easy, repetitive planking to accomplish. I can switch back and forth from that, to hair pulling at the ends of the boat.

Thanks for looking.

Quick post today. I got the centerboard slot cut. Basically burned my way through with a Dremel metal cutoff wheel (I don’t have the little sawblade kit yet), and cleaned up with a sharp
chisel.

I then started bottom planking with the typical Chesapeake herringbone pattern. This allows the planks, at least away from the extreme ends, to lie nicely on the chine and keelson. The faying surface is nice and flat, and I’m making good contact with the planks. I started roughly amidship, and I’m working towards each end simultaneously. I put on a temporary keel (skeg and fore gripe) to butt the planking against, then realized that is probably a mistake, so I’ve stopped planking and I’m getting out the skeg, gripe, and outer stems now, which I’ll go ahead and fasten in permanently before I continue. I'll still have to fit a temporary piece in the centerboard slot to butt the planks against, but there's less risk of gluing that in by mistake, which is what I was worried about before.
 


I’ve been busy as well with other distractions, but I’m free now for a few days to concentrate again on the model. I’ll continue the bottom planking later. Its getting more fun now, and as always, thanks for looking in.
 

Got the side planks glued on today. This is a two plank per side boat, being low of freeboard, like all traditional sharpies, and from a time where wide, flitch sawn boards were available. I did the same thing with the model, but rather than hang two, separate planks, I got out the lower plank (not really called a garboard plank in a vee bottom hull) with the chine edge cut to shape and the upper edge left straight, then glued another straight edge plank to the first, and cut the sheer shape on the upper edge of that. I then was able to install the whole thing like a sheet of plywood. I was careful however, to make the sheer plank a sensible width, and keep both sides the same in case the seam shows up, or I decide to express the seam somehow. The lower plank sweeps up pretty high on the stem and stern post with the two planks nearly equal in width amidship. I’m pretty sure this is how the boat would have been planked. The lower plank can be cut from a 12”-14” wide board. No sweat in them days. And even now, clear eastern white pine can be found that wide. At any rate, I think the plank seam is visible in some of the pics.
 
I left the planks a tad wide, rehung them on the boat, and marked them out again, marking also the other edges of the chine, sheer clamps, and stems, so I would know where to put the glue.

I used Titebond for gluing them on, as I wanted enough working time to get everything just right, and the clamps on. I found these little plastic spring clamps at Harbor Freight. Six for $1.99. Bought a bag full of various clamps for $12.00. The ends of the planks are tricky to clamp, just like on full size boats, and the second one is worse than the first. I used sticky back sandpaper on little cauls to grab the planking, and it worked well enough. A better solution would be tapered cauls with sandpaper glued on with Titebond.


 
 

 
 
I
This is a milestone of sorts, and I finally think I’m making some progress. Bottom planking is next, Chesapeake style. Stay tuned.
 

Hello, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under.
 
If you like models in museums, I would highly recommend your Naval Academy Museum at Annapolis, which is not too far from you.
 
John