Ryland Craze

Hamilton: I don't have any photos and don't have the model anymore. The Unicorn framing provided an approximation of the hull shape and in those days I wasn't quite as concerned as I would be today.
 
Back to Essex. I did a few easy things prior to planking. First, I added some additional framing at the stern to frame the doors to the quarter galleries. I'm considering showing the great cabin in some level of detail and also scratch building the quarter galleries. This framing will allow me those options down the road. Next, I painted the area of the lower deck cut outs with Pollyscale engine black. I then made and installed the sections of lower deck planking to fit the cut outs. The deck planking is holly (as will be all of the deck planking). The caulking is simulated by pencil on one edge of each plank. It's finished with Wipe On Poly. Lastly, I painted the inside and edges of the gun ports with Pollyscale AT&SF red.
 
I've decided to begin the planking with the upper outer hull. Full speed ahead!
 
Bob

Originally Posted April 30, 2009
 
In this post, I will be updating my build log to the point where I resumed building my AVS in January, 2009, after three and a half years of no work on her.
 
Chapter Three of the practicum has you doing the remaining planking.  I started out planking the inside of the bulwarks.  When planking over the gun ports, I would trim the planking to open up the gun ports.  After I completed the bulwark planking, I placed thin strips of wood in the upper and lower opening of the gun ports to fill the gap between the first layer outer planking and the inside bulwark planking.  I took care to make sure that my gun ports openings were uniform.
 
Then it was on to the second layer of planking.  The planking above the wales worked out fine as there was very little tapering.  For the planking below the wales, the practicum had you install the planks in scale lengths in a four butt pattern.  This was a different method than what was taught on the first layer of planking.  After completing the second layer, I sanded everything and applied several coats of MinWax Wipe On Poly, sanding with 0000 steel wool between coats.  I was real happy with the finish.  However, I changed my mind, sanded down the poly finish and painted my AVS using Model Shipways paint.  For the AVS, I really like the painted version as it is a very colorful ship.
 
Chapter Four has you completing the deck details.  I started building the hatches, companionway and scuttle.  These were built first as you plank the deck around the deck furnishings.  I followed the deck planking as per the practicum.  If I were doing it over again, I would have used a four butt pattern for the deck planking, where the practicum had you just using one long plank with no butts.  I also completed the quarter deck wall planking and the poop deck planking.  In this section, I also built the cannons.  I made a jig so that all of the cannons would be uniform.  The practicum called for the installation of the oar sweeps, but I elected not to install them.  This basically completed the hull of the AVS.
 
Chapter Five is where I got bogged down and construction came to a halt.  This chapter is where you complete all of the smaller deck details, eyebolt and cleat installation, ships wheel, swivel cannons and rigging of the cannons.  For the ships wheel, I ordered a wooden one from Model Expo.  The wheel was too thick, so I sanded down both sides and am happy with the outcome.  This is where I stopped construction.  Following are pictures of my AVS at this stage of construction.


 
 

I got fed up with the plastic kit and it served it's purpose, I back working on my KF.
 
Shaping the parts at the bow is a little tricky but fun especially with the scarph joints and the mast partner that has it's carlings cut from the onder side of the beam. Partially fixed partially test fitted here's the progress to date. Having the fore mast finished already helps to align all parts. 
 



 
Nils, thank you. Indeed the frame work is close to the real thing but not completely. I did not make the chokes as separate parts but they are part of the frame timbers. 
 
Remco

Ahoy Spencer
 
I had this similar problem with my kit. I am a beginner too so please allow others to respond before following my directions
 
This is what I got out of my experience
 
 First and foremost check your work, right bulkhead, right slot. You also should have transcribed a reference line on both the bulkhead and the keel section (usually the water line) this will tell you right away that a bulkhead is seated correctly or not
 
 Second, if it is possible you should check to make sure the bulkhead has been correctly cut. Some kits include with the plans, templates of the bulkheads. Use these and compare them with what was shipped. This was one problem I had. Corrections are easily made by either the addition or subtraction of some wood.
 
Lastly. If none of the above will work use the deck as your guide and align the bulkheads there. Then pin battens (thin strips)  to the hull like temporary planks which will show any high or low spots caused by bulkheads being off. Again, add or subtract wood as needed to. See my Rattlesnake log for pics
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-rattlesnake-by-jpett-model-shipways-ms2028-scale-164th/?p=281
 
Proceed with patience, check and double check, in the end you will find there is always a fix.  
 
PS: welcome to model ship building

Guys, thanks for the comments.
 
Build update:
 
Finished adding pieces to complete this phase of the build, except for items that will be added after rigging phase is complete.  I sure if I added the stern lanterns they would be knocked off many times.  Figurehead isn't added yet either.  The one that came with the casting package has a bowed left leg (won't seat flush with stem).  These items don't bend, so I made a mold of the leg out of clay.  Would like to get a replacement from Amati.
 
Things that were done since last update are:
Did all the hammock netting and stanchions.  
Added fire buckets, but didn't order enough of them.
Made and added the additional ladders required.
Made and added the channels, supports, eyelets, chainplates and deadeyes.
Rigged the four guns on the FC.
Completed the catheads, headrails and associated pieces.
Added ship boats and tied down.
 
Next step making the masts.  
 

Well i've done just about all I can do until I get the sails fabricated.
The spars are ready and lots of rigging line everywhere to confuse the issue.
I finished the spars with minwax waterbase woodsheen in oak color, this is a rub-on stain/finish that I am happy with.
So far I've used waterbase finishes everywhere except some metal parts that are touched up with oil base paint. I like the low odor of the water base finishes used.
I decided to add cannon balls, bucket and tools to the battle stations (swab/worm & ram/loader).
 
I can't imagine how the full square rigged ships get done! I'm doing so much rigging prep on everything but it will be a lot easier than once the mast and spars are installed.
 
My main focus now is getting my sailmaker going on the sails, I need them complete before I install the standing rigging, as I plan to thread the fore sails hanks onto the stays to save me having to sew them on while on the ship.
 
Ken

Originally Posted January 10, 2010
 
Happy New Year everyone! I hope that 2010 is the best year yet.

It has been a while since I last posted an update on my AVS Build Log. I have been working trying to finish up all of my deck furnishings. The part of the build I thought would give me the most problems was rigging my cannons and making the rope coils. Having never done this, I checked into the many ways of making the rope coils. I am using MoRope and did not want to cut my rigging line, so I opted to make the coils on the deck.
 
This is the procedure that I went with. I started with Elmer’s White glue thinned with water (75% glue to 25% water) and added a couple of drops of dish detergent to help absorb the glue into the rigging line. I placed a piece of double sided tape next to the cannon and then cut a small square of wax paper and laid it on top of the double sided tape. This is where I would construct my rope coils. I took and stretched out the line to be coiled and give it a good coating of my glue mixture. I then coiled the line around an Xacto aluminum knife handle and keep working it on the wax paper. Eventually the rigging line would lay right, but you have to keep adding glue. When the glue dries, you will not see any evidence of the glue residue. I gave the line a heavy coat of glue where I was going to cut off the excess line. MoRope will unravel quickly if you do not have the area glued where you cut the line. Here is a picture of the rope coils drying on my deck.
 
After the rope coils dried, I carefully removed them from the wax paper. I then discarded the wax paper and tape that was on the deck. I placed an old Xacto knife blade under the MoRope where I was making the cut so that I would not damage the deck. I cut the excess line off and placed some undiluted glue on the underside of the coils and positioned them on the deck.
 
This was the first time that I have made rope coils. I felt I had better practice making them, as I did not want to mess up my cannon tackle rigging. I practiced making many coils using the kit supplied materials, but was not having much success. I finally practiced with the same thickness of MoRope and this worked great. After two practice coils, I was ready to go live.
The first coil on my AVS took over an hour, with the last coils taking about 20 minutes each. I am happy with the outcome. Here is a picture of all of the cannons rigged.
 
I used 0.6mm MoRope for the train tackle and rope coils and 0.8mm for the breeching rope. I think that the 0.6mm line may have been slightly too heavy of line to use as the kit supplied line came out to 0.5mm. However, MoRope only comes in either 0.4mm or 0.6mm line as they do not make 0.5mm line. I also used 3.5mm Warner Woods blocks, which I think was a good fit for the 0.6mm MoRope.
 
I finally feel that I can now move forward on my AVS build. I have completed all of the deck furnishings and only have to install them. I will post some pictures when I complete this step.
 

From the Two Steps Forward, One Step Back school of ship modeling, here's another update!
 
Just getting the plank wet and clamping it to my glass plate, I edge-bent the broad strake.
 

 
I left it sit overnight to dry and here's the result.
 

 

 
Then I started sanding and carving.  I found that the end of the strake fit a lot better into the keel rabbet.  And I did two bends:  the edge bend in the photos above and a bend around the curve of the hull.  That bend was pretty subtle, but it made a big difference in how the plank fit.  I'll add, too, that some of the edge bend went out of the plank when I wet it again to form the bend around the bow.  Don't know how to minimize that.
 
So here's the broad strake fitted to the rabbet and the garboard strake.
 

 

 
When gluing the strake in place, I concentrated on the bow.  I held it in place while the glue set, avoiding the use of clamps altogether.  When it was almost dry, I put some clamps in place on the frames to just hold it in place.  That avoided marring the surface of the plank with a clamp.
 
On my last attempt, there was a low spot between two of the frames.  I know now why.  The forward end of the garboard strake is a little low.  Fitting the broads strake so that it lined up perfectly made that strake a little low too and formed the low spot.  I let the broad strake lie where it's supposed to be this time, so there's a very, very slight difference in height at that point between those two strakes, but that will sand out, I'm confident.  Had I done what I did last time, that dent would have needed filling.
 
I only applied glue to the first six or so frames and the edge of the plank that far back.  The bend around the stern still needs to be done.  I think I'll be in good shape just wetting the after end of the plank, bending it around the stern and clamping it in place. 
 
I've made a lot of sawdust out of basswood planks...  I think I'm going to have to order another bundle of them from ModelExpo because I doubt I'm going to be able to finish the planking with what came in the kit.  There was plenty there to allow for mistakes, but not quite enough to allow for my mistakes!
 
 
 
Dan

Working on her slowly but surely.  Painted and installed the knees.  Made the windlass using basswood.  Could not help myself yesterday and ordered the Pinnace.
 
 Bob R.

Thanks for putting this build log back online. The pictures show a lot more detail in MSW 2.0 than on the older version of MSW.  Absolutely a beautiful model.

Syren Update - Case Completed
 

I just completed a case for my Syren. It is my own design made from quarter-sawn white oak and plexiglass. The inner dimensions are fit to the Syren at 34" x 13" x 27" and the outer dimensions are 36" x 15" x 28".  Plexiglass is 1/6 the weight of glass so the case only weighs a few pounds and I can move it myself. The case is finished with a coat of Watco walnut stain, two coats of orange shellac to seal the grain, and several coats of a 1:1:1 mix of polyurethane varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits.

If you're taking votes into consideration, I say you should go for the challenge. Your other work has been outstanding and I think you have the skills to make this into another work of art.

Hi everyone,
I have been using ME's plank bender for many years. (my 3rd one due to burn out). Besides doing a good job in bending planks, I also use it to "iron" the second layer planks onto the first not needing to use clamps, nails etc. I do use 2 types of glue to do this: CA glue in small drops at stress points(front end, severe bends etc.), wood glue (very thin) for the rest of the plank. Any discoloration of planks is easy to sand off, excess glue is wiped off quickly with a damp rag.
Kind regards,
Ulrich

Hi Folks,
 
Thanks to Bob (and a couple of others) for keeping me updated. I just had a very brief conversation with Eric (hard to do much after hours on a Friday night).
 
Although I've not seen a full released kit myself yet at this time from what I've been told and seen out here my first inclination is that an old file(s) may have been inserted into the kit some how. The issues Bob has described (and we've discussed off line) as well as some other indicators show "things" that I went through during design/development and corrected. They shouldn't be there (anymore)
 
I'll be working with Expo to get these items addressed ASAP.
 
Have faith and I'll be back................
 
Sam

Well, finally got back to some modeling! Sort of took the summer off to keep the kids busy.
 
I completed the Bowsprit, Jibboom, Mast, Topmast but still need to fabricate the rest of the spars
 
I installed the Bowsprit with the lower standing rigging and footropes and started on the standing rigging for the mast.
 
Next is: complete the spar fabrication, install the Jibboom, complete standing/running rigging setup, fabricate sails.
 
Tricky part is getting the mainsail installed with gaff and boom: before, after, or ??? the completed standing rigging. 

I've now attached and braced all of the bulkheads. Mostly this work was very straight forward and went along with few difficulties ( after I had spent considerable time opening up the slots when I first fitted them). A couple of the bulkheads were not sized properly and had to be adjusted by adding strip wood on the inner side at the top and reducing the outside by sanding.
 
Kudos to Model Expo for sending me the replacement laser cut sheet that I had requested in just a few days, which allowed me to complete the bulkhead  mounting.
 
I braced the bulkheads with strip wood, added wood blocks for mounting the masts and added strip wood framing for the drop down deck planking. Lastly, I sanded the bulkheads to get them level for the future decking. Next, I will do the gun deck gun port framing to help stiffen up the framing prior to fairing. I will leave the stern framing and the bow and stern filler blocks until that's done.
 
Bob

Richard - I think you have stated one of the keys to becoming a successful modeler with this statement.  As an over-analytical person (as the Admiral is happy to remind me), I find myself spending months at a time considering how to do the next step.  It would probably be better to jump in and give something a try, trash it if it doesn't work out, and try something else.  In the long run, there is more experience to be gained by giving it a shot than by sitting and thinking about it.
 
Your planking is looking very good so far - I will be following along as you get further into the build.
 
Bob

Phase one of deck planking done: After admiring many beautiful examples and experimenting on paper with various plank lengths and shifts I always came back to Tony’s 12 cm, 3 shift pattern. I think it’s adequate when using the 4 mm strips provided with the kit. Shorter planks and more than 3 shifts provided very strange patterns, not at all aesthetically pleasing.
 

 
Learning from Tony’s experience, I struggled with the symmetry of my hull, which I neglected in the early days of enthusiastically gluing together bulkheads, keel and false deck.
That’s why I didn’t cut out the holes for the scuttles behind the main hatch (I will have to paint the planks black under the gratings). I also had to bend the planks laterally to achieve the impression of a symmetry that is not there. One can hardly detect it, but it was a struggle, working with dividers, paper strips etc.
 

 
For the caulking I used the black pencil method. The strips in the kit had to be sanded heavily; their edges were very rough. Because of my impatience the planks are not always of the same width …
The finishing is not what I wanted to achieve: After scraping the planks with a sharp blade and sanding I used linseed oil again. It highlights the structure of wood, but here this effect was not what I wished for (it shows also pencil dust rubbed in while sanding). Again, as on the hull, I will have to learn to select the wooden strips very carefully or even be prepared to replace them.
It seems my crew did not religiously holystone the deck and flogging it dry every day before sunrise, and my deck has the worn look of twenty years of honourable service.
 

 
To console myself I finished the deckhouse. Now my CO has a place to hide when somebody makes unfriendly comments about the state of the deck.
 
I will adapt the gratings to the deck and do other small things while thinking hard about treenailing methods. I already tested the hot syringe needle and nearly destroyed my deck (it looks exactly like it sounds: spots of burnt wood). I will try to “heal” it with the toothpick method.
Gregor

I figure it's time I put a little work in on the Elco, I guess I've been spending too much time on the Atlantic half hull.  I managed to get the remainder of the spray shields cut and they are now ready to be sized and glued into place.  
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

Now that my Triton cross-section has been completed, I finally  opened the Essex box, which I have had for a few weeks, for a serious look, after a couple of quick peeks. Since it is my intention to alter the kit in various ways, as I did with Fair American and Syren, I won't get involved with a detailed review or critique of the various kit parts. I understand that MS is changing some of the kit items already. I don't know whether those changes will be given to those, like me, who already have the kit.
 
My overall impression is that the kit contains good plans, detailed instructions and a lot of laser cut wood and photo etched parts, as well as metal castings whose utility is unknown to me at this point. I've made some preliminary decisions as to how I will proceed, but a lot remains to be decided as I spend more time with the project. I have the AOTS book on Essex by Portia Takakjian, which I expect to use in conjunction with the kit plans, but I have no idea yet as to how or how much. 
 
The one thing that I know for certain is that I will replace the kit basswood with boxwood for the hull planking not covered by copper and with holly for the deck planking. I also expect to carry out the quarterdeck and forecastle deck framing to a more detailed level and to do that with boxwood. It is likely that I will also replace much, if not all, of the kit deck furniture with scratch built boxwood parts. Finally, it is my intention to fully mast and rig the model, whether or not MS issues a second kit for that purpose.
 
I've been looking forward to this build for over a year now and I'm really eager to get started. I hope my old friends on MSW, and new ones as well, will want to look in as I go forward.
 
Bob

Trouble is, I'm doing the boring stuff now, so nothing really changes that much. (I am not really one for showing every single insignificant stage, trenail by trenail...) I have just finished rigging the lower and upper shrouds (including the shroud cleats), added the footropes to the yards, and the next job is the dreaded ratlines. I think it's pointless taking pics of the yards, as once you've seen one set, you've really seen them all. I guess the next change will be once the yards are fixed in place, which will be in about a week's time. All of the parts are now assembled and in place, so only rigging left to do.
 
As for the paints, I think I have already stated what I used (and why) already in this thread - the Vallejo paints come into their own when painting the dark wood coloured parts, which seem to give a very good scale appearance, rather than simply staining the parts, which tends to accentuate the way over scale wood grain.
 
I have just taken a set of pictures (while it's still nice outside) - this is where I am up to. (still waiting for figurehead, though..)
 

This build log will detail the construction of the Model Shipways kit USF Confederacy (scale 1:64) designed by Chuck Passaro.
 
The brief history of this 36 gun American Continental Navy Frigate is presented in some detail in the full-color, 170 page instruction manual and is available at Model Expo online. 
 
The model will be constructed in the 'Admiralty' configuration (without full rigging) and shall have an overall length of 35".
 
Although actual construction will not begin until about 9/1/2013, I have opened the kit and will provide here my overall impression of the contents and some photos to show 'WHAT'S IN THE BOX'.
 
The inventory of the kit has been completed and all listed items were provided.  No, I did not count the 300 eyebolts.  The well-drawn plans comprise 5 sheets.  As model ship manufacturers have not embraced the concept of rolled plans, they come folded and required a bit of steam ironing to be rendered suitably flat for my taste.  As mentioned, the color manual is up to Chuck's usual standard and shall become my bible for the immediate future:
 

 
The kit contains 23 laser cut sheets varying in thicknesses from 1/32 to 1/4" :
 

 
The strip wood and dowels were supplied bundled so sorting was effortless.  The quality of the wood is not bad.  I am considering replacing some of the basswood strips but need some time to figure that out:
 

 
An extensive amount of photoetched parts are supplied:
 

 
Blocks, deadeyes, cleats, stanchions and parts including anchors:
 

 
Figurehead, cannon and some stern decorations --- all brittania metal.  Although some previous logs have felt these fittings were substandard, my opinion is that they can actually be used successfully.  However, as Chuck offers some after market upgrades through his Syren Model Ship Company, I opted for upgrades of the figurehead and cannon:
 

 
I shall provide a side-by-side comparison of the kit supplied vs. custom parts when the new ones are received.
 
It is now time to do some reading and perusing of the plans to get my head around this new lady.  I am hoping to improve on the skills developed during my recently completed Syren project.  As usual, I'll be keeping a log of time spent for those who might be interested.  All I can promise is to try my best and produce something worthy to stand with the other fine Confederacy kits already (or soon to be) underway.
 
Everyone is invited to join in and comments and critique are welcome.    WELCOME ABOARD TO ALL!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I finally was able to retreive my old pictures from my old computer, so I can now re-post my Syren build. This is my first ship model and I've made a ton of mistakes, but I learned a lot. Especially on how to cover up mistakes. When I got to this point I was contacted by a member of the Ship Modelers Association (SMA) in Southern California. http://www.shipmodelersassociation.org He invited me to a meeting. He said that he had built 54 ship models and was also starting to build the Syren. I attended the meeting and was amazed by the number of people just as crazy as me. He invited me to his house and I accepted . I told my wife that he was either a genius or more full of crap than anyone I had ever met. Life's not long enough to build that may ship models. Well I counted them. Yep 54. I agreed to join the club and present my Syren at the next meeting. Darned if he didn't present his and he had done in 2 months what it had taken me a year to do. I decided that covering up mistakes was more time consuming than not making them in the first place. So I took a step back and bought some equipment and started experimenting with different techniques. Bought some books and studied them and visited the Constitution, CW Morgan, Annapolis Maritime Museum, Victory and the Greenwich Maritime Museum. I'm starting to work on my Syren again so I'll be posting some more photos in a few days.

I had to do the long boat oars over. The laser cut oars are way too big. I should have
checked the plans. The oars seem to fit now. Another learning experience.

Here is short video guide how to make it like this

 
 
(click CC to turn on subtitles)