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Bulkheads don't match up right, all help appreciated - moved by moderator


SpencerC

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As you can see from te pictures bulkhead 4 is higher up than bulkhead 3. As they run 1-13 from front to back shouldn't number 3 be higher than number 4? It's a kit so I know I didn't cut it wrong. Brand new out of the laser cut wood, nothing has been chipped and both sides look the same. Please any help would be great. The one on the right is bulkhead four.

post-6152-0-29613300-1380155323_thumb.jpg

post-6152-0-82605200-1380155335_thumb.jpg

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2 options i can think off : you deepend the slot in either keel or bulkhead 4 till the bottom sits at the sam height as number 3 then add some strips on top of the bulkhead to get it leve again.

 

or add some strips on the edges of the bulkhead at the bottom

 

Current builds : HMS Bounty, Constructo Pilar

Next build : undecided

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : Ochre Gorch Fock, Hachette/Amati Black Pearl

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80

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I have tapped everything down everything is completely flush. I pushed bulkhead 3 up a little cause I noticed when I put the deck on that it was a little low not touching the bottom of the deck board. So I brought it up a little and it looks like it is now higher than bulkhead 4 but I am worried that now it is not in the right position for planking. I glued every bulkhead except 3 and four just incase anyone here had a better idea.

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Ahoy Spencer :D

 

I had this similar problem with my kit. I am a beginner too so please allow others to respond before following my directions

 

This is what I got out of my experience

 

 First and foremost check your work, right bulkhead, right slot. You also should have transcribed a reference line on both the bulkhead and the keel section (usually the water line) this will tell you right away that a bulkhead is seated correctly or not

 

 Second, if it is possible you should check to make sure the bulkhead has been correctly cut. Some kits include with the plans, templates of the bulkheads. Use these and compare them with what was shipped. This was one problem I had. Corrections are easily made by either the addition or subtraction of some wood.

 

Lastly. If none of the above will work use the deck as your guide and align the bulkheads there. Then pin battens (thin strips)  to the hull like temporary planks which will show any high or low spots caused by bulkheads being off. Again, add or subtract wood as needed to. See my Rattlesnake log for pics

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-rattlesnake-by-jpett-model-shipways-ms2028-scale-164th/?p=281

 

Proceed with patience, check and double check, in the end you will find there is always a fix.  

 

PS: welcome to model ship building :)

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Spencer,

 

JPett is correct on all his points. Which ship is this?  Have you checked for other build logs to see if they had a similar issue?  It's possible it's a design flaw or a manufacturing flaw. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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You should also mark the bearding line on the keel, that will help determine whether one is too high or the other too low, also look at the level on top where the deck will be, that should have a smooth transition (but not necessarily level, decks are curved for water runoff to the sides).

 

Are there plans 1:1 scale that you can overlay each bulkhead to verify its size?

 

Either way, they're pretty easy to shim/trim to adjust for a correct fit once you determine it.

 

Remember the extra time spent on this will greatly benefit the rest of the build, I've read many time where framing and faring the frames can take a lot of time to finally get right and shouldn't be rushed.

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

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You should have a rabbet in the false keel.  it will probably run true to the bottom of each bulkhead. Check the plans and see where the rabbet is placed.  It isn't that they aren't seated deep enough, there should be some room at the bottom for the rabbet.   That is assuming I understand the question correctly.

Tom

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  • 4 weeks later...

Spencer;  I always copy my plans, and reflect them onto the bulkheads.  there are always imperfections in kits.  And there are always imperfections in kits' instructions.  That is why you need to look outside the box (Very literally) and determine what you need.  No rabbet line?  Make one.  No bearding line? Make one.  No sheer plan?  If you need it, Find one.  Don't know how to do this?   Do the research.  For every 10 minutes I spend working on a build, I spend 1 hour looking over plans, learning, learning, learning; and researching..

 

This is what it's all about..

 

good luck and happy modeling..

 

Bob

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Try fixing temporary battens between bulkheads 2 and 5 on both sides then bring bulkhead 3 up to them and see how it looks, also check BH 4. It sounds like the slot in BH 3 may have been cut too deep. If this is the case then you can add a small filler piece to bring it up to the right height. The cutting error may be due to the large cut out in the false keel but hard to see from the picture?

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Spencer;  I always copy my plans, and reflect them onto the bulkheads.  there are always imperfections in kits.  And there are always imperfections in kits' instructions.  That is why you need to look outside the box (Very literally) and determine what you need.  No rabbet line?  Make one.  No bearding line? Make one.  No sheer plan?  If you need it, Find one.  Don't know how to do this?   Do the research.  For every 10 minutes I spend working on a build, I spend 1 hour looking over plans, learning, learning, learning; and researching..

 

This is what it's all about..

 

good luck and happy modeling..

 

Bob

I forget to actually build things I read so much, look for info here and study the plans so much! I must have 15 books on ship building, all this at least gives me clue of how to actually build. Now I am flushing out tools and work area, jigs and templates are also on my mind.

Tony

 

Savannah, Georgia

 

Multi hobby nut.

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Based on my experience it is much more important that the bulkhead fit correctly at the deck (upper) level.

 

The outside edges of the bulkheads will either be reduced or have materiel added in order to true the hull prior to planking.

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

Wood Models; AL Bluenose II 1989, Corel Toulonnaise 1995, Corel Flying Fish 2000, AL Scottish Maid 2005,

Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

Card Models

Christmas Train by PaperReplika 2012, Yamaha DSC11 Motorcycle 2013, Canon EOS 5D Mark II 2014, WWII Tiger I Tank by Paper-Replika 2014, Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Roadster 2014, Central Pacific no. 60 Jupiter card model 2015, Mirage III 1/30 converted to 1/33 card model 2017, TKpapercraft 1912 Mercer 2021

 

 
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  • 1 month later...

Just as bogeygolpher said

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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  • 2 weeks later...

I may have missed something, but it is not clear to me whether bulkhead 3 sits too low or bulkhead 4 sits too high.  How does bulkhead 5 align with nr4?  My first impression is that nr 3 sits too low.  As no deck rests on it, it should not be a problem to pad up its slot to have its lower side lign up with the other bulkheads...

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