Ryland Craze

I want to take the Seahorse Zeven Provincien and enlarge it to 1/64 scale to match my other models.
 
That one is on my bucket list.

Welcome, Marcel!
 
Seems like there are quite a few card modelers here. Not too many card build logs active at any one time but the builders are here, watching and willing to help.
 
I'm not sure I'll go back to developing my wood working modeling skills. That's how much I'm enjoying building in card. There's not a lot of investment in tools needed (not to mention the space for a decent wood shop). I think there's a greater variety of kits available in card than in wood. Certainly card modeling has a lower cost of entry. If I spend 30 dollars on a card kit and never build it, no great loss. If I spend 300 on a wooden kit and never build it (or attempt and fail), well, the expense would just make me feel the failure even more.
 
And you can't ever regret trying a Seahorse kit!
 
 

Welcome aboard, Marcel!

I build 2 HMV kits, a small fishing boat included in the ''Seefalke'' set and the small HMV ferry Adler IV. And now I'm building the Seefalke itself. I started small, my goal is a battle ship and eventually the Seahorse ''Zeven provinciën''

Hey Marcel, What ships have you been building? Welcome to MSW.
 
I just got into card modeling. I just butchered the seahorse Armed Virginia Sloop -1776. I was rushing and messed up some of the alignment... mistakes were made, and lessons were learned. Anyway, I've just got my hands on the Shipyard HMS Alert -1777 and have put all the frames together. Look's promising. 
 
 

Marcel, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. 

But for now I stick to paper model kits, scratchbuilding I save for later😉

Thanks for the link to the article of Ab Hoving GrandpaPhil!
I need all the information I can get 😀

Welcome!
 
I started building paper ships a few years back after I found Ab Hoving’s tutorial on this forum.
 
 
I found it while on a business trip and read it several times and realized that it was doable.
 
When I got home I started the Prince de Neufchatel.
 
I’ve completed several since then.

Welcome aboard! I beleive there are many other paper modelers here who you can share ideas with.

Hello fellow shipbuilders,
I would like to briefly introduce myself. My name is Marcel and I come from the Netherlands. The land of famous shipbuilders. I have been a model maker since my youth (35+ years) and mainly in plastic and building armour.
But recently I started making paper model ships, and I think I'm hooked! I am now working on my third ship. I must say that I am quite inspired by the paper projects on this forum.
I'm not very good at keeping construction records, but maybe that will come naturally.
Greetings from the Netherlands.

Keith,
 
It was I who edited your build log title. I did this as part of an overhaul of all the build log titles on our site, to conform them to our site guidelines. The job took nearly two months to complete, as we have thousands of build logs here, so perhaps you can see why I didn't ask everyone whose logs were tidied up for permission to do so in advance. As for your log in particular, I added the information about Madawaska because the 1869 launch date for Tennessee isn't the original launch date for the ship itself -- personally, I think that little bit of extra info is interesting, but if you wish you may strike the last bit from the log title, or I can do it for you.
 
Kind regards,
Chris

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

A lot like drilling holes for multiple strips and eyelets on the hull you spent almost a year planking. Not much opportunity for recovery. 

Oh its scary…one slip up and it will be hard to fix.  But that is true when you drill hawse holes and scuppers on any model.  A year of hard work and one slip up…poofff.

Seeing the results of your work, Chuck, one would not think that there are any modeling tasks that could possibly terrify you.

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck
 

Thwarts and stern seats
 
The first step is to fit the risers.  There is a for and aft part and the by pre-bending these to fit the inner part of the hull they fitted well.  The main issue is to make sure that the port and starpoard risers are at the same height.  By measuring the height from the plans I found this fairly easy:

The next task was to fit the thwarts and the cockpit seats. All of these parts are in two pieces.  As Chuck points out, it is difficult to rebate a nice even edge particularly in AYC so all of these parts consist of a thick wide part with a thin narrower one glued on top.  For example here are the thwarts:
 

 
And the Cockpit seats ( only dry fitted here)
 
 

 
The side cockpit seats are painted red:
 

and finally the crosspiece an the Knees are fitted:

 
Next up is  to fit the rest of the thwarts permanently.
 
John
 
 
 
 

I check the post tracker daily -- sometimes twice a day.

Yes they are, not sure how model specific they are. They need to be lightly sanded and weathering powder applied but they are great. 

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

Jeff, that’s what I did. I just cleaned up both ends to remove char and squared them up. Once you have glued them to the lower apron, you’ll want to reduce their height. It’s all in the practicum. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

I'm back ! Medical issue is under proper management for now.
 
Once I get past a few out of state high school graduations and a few assorted doctors appointments,  we'll be back in the model shop. I did manage to get the vegetable gardens planted when I came back. The flower gardens exploded into bloom while we were gone. 
 
Today it hit 90F and climbing. Normal highs for this time of year in this area are low 60s F to maybe 68F. Ugh !