Ryland Craze

It's always a pretty big step when you knock off the lower ratlines. Just a couple of additional notes - the first six lines on the top and bottom of both the main and fore shrouds skip the foremost and aftmost shrouds. Otherwise the process is the same as the mizzen - skipping every few lines to prevent the shrouds from squeezing together or skewing.  I used a long ruler to make sure  my graph paper was positioned properly to the match the lines of the ship and the other ratlines. 
 
 
 
  I also wanted to note here that it is quite important (especially at this scale) to let the diluted PVA dry completely before you try and trim the edges otherwise the knots will unravel and you'll have to redo some lines. After the end knots dry, I use a brand new blade on my scalpel, hold the end of the rope as tightly as I can with my smallest tweezers, then gently cut the rope as close to the knot as possible with a slow back and forth sawing motion using only the weight of the scalpel. Trying to "slice" the rope does not work here and results in pulling and fraying.
 

 
This is also one of those places where it really does make a difference when you use higher quality lines - another benefit of making my own.  The polyester fibers do have a tendency to slip a tiny bit, so going through and adjusting the clove hitches across each ratline is paramount to maintaining some semblance of evenness throughout the rigging. I have some a bit more slack than others, but overall I'm pleased with the end result. As we all know - this is one of those times when patience really does pay off.
 
  
 
 
 
For those who are curious - a total of 784 clove hitches including the ratlines across the futtock shrouds. 
 

nope...You are good.  I changed that part of the deadwood later on after I built it.  The current plans are correct which match your parts which are also correct.   
 
It just made sense to change it after I built it the first time and makes building that area easier for all of you.   My model and log will sometimes be slightly different as improvements are made after the fact....so just follow the plans and instructions and you will be fine.
 
It will make adding the wing transom and creating the square tuck much easier.   

Time for a much needed update!
 
I have spent a good part of the week reading build logs, and it seems that card models are generally finished with a coat of sealant after completion. I think I am going to stick to this method before learning any more complicated techniques, as I am already somewhat in over my head and want to keep the motivation flowing! Thanks again for the advice I received.
 
I managed to construct the bridge and funnel during the week, including plastic backing for the windows.



 
They don't fit together perfectly. I need to get better at cutting in general... i think working from a kit would help thee alignment issues, but generally I am happy with my results, as I'm retracing all these parts by hand.
 
The thin spot and some other minor imperfections in the hull were fixed with a final coat of filler. It still looks a bit rough where the bulkheads are poking through, but feels quite smooth.
 
Had some distractions this week as well...
 
After the sanding, I cut the scuppers. I had some trouble here as I hadn't marked them beforehand, and the filler thickness varied quite significantly from scupper to scupper and was very crumbly. Therefore, they don't look great, or very even... If anyone knows a good way to repair these somewhat, I'm all ears, but I'm happy with how they look from viewing distance so am not super bothered.
 
 
Railings and rub rails were next!

 
She's starting to look like a ship, which is great
 
I'll be doing the prop, rudder and shaftline next, all from card as of now. I have some wooden dowel for the rudder post. Again, I've reviewed several build logs and have a plan, though without proper kit parts, some trial and error may be involved.
 
I'll end with a question: is black a reasonable primer colour for model shipbuilding? I've used it for miniatures to help with the shadowing, and I think it might help here to tone down my colours and give a more weathered impression, which is what I'm after. I know it does mean I'll need more coats, but I'm fine by that. Does this sound reasonable, or should I go pick up a white or grey? Thanks!
 
Go Canucks!

I could use a million of words of admiration, but I'll just keep it at "wow, what a masterpiece !"  (for now).

EG, yeah an Indy car might be a draw,
 
First builds of a new line can be sporting, Craig. 😄I'm thrashing with some MikroMir Russian sub kits. Limited run kits, no locator pins, skimpy instructions. How many parts can a sub have in 1:350 scale? An exercise is filling gaps with styrene plugs, followed by Mr Surfacer. 🙄

Log entry 30
 
Rigging of the bowsprit is now complete:
 

 

 

 

 
It went well overall, though it is difficult to get to some part of it! How @Thukydides and others manage to make such beautiful knots and splices at this scale is beyond me! Hats off to you! But from a few feet away, I am happy with how my efforts are turning out. 
 
Now, on with the yards.
 
BR
TJM

Not a small ship at all Bug.  Very well done,  thanks for your log, very much appreciated.  I will look on it often when I restart  my Pegasus. Thank you so much.
Bob M.     .

Fantastic build. Congratulations.

Very nicely done BE! Looks great!
 
Andy

Love the perspective shot -  not a small ship!

A wonderfull build B.E.
 
are you having a glass or a plexiglass case  in order ?
 
Nils

This is a beautiful and most impressive model in every way! Congratulations, BE!

She looks fantastic BE. Another great build.

Post One hundred and Seventy-one
Album photo's
I have at last got around to taking the completion photo’s which will form part of the Photo build record book that I’m currently putting together.

4395
4361A

4392

4364

4365

4391

4390

4396

4369

4405

4395

2161A

2145a

4397

2162a

2164a

4380

4379

4388

4494a
I am currently faffing around with a clinker built 18’ cutter, and ‘Indy’ is yet to be enclosed in her case, so the story has not quite ended.
 
Then there’s the 26’ Launch, still on my mind.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Looks like a memory lane build to me. We have 3 tracks locally though they are dirt - Albany-Saratoga about 6-8 miles from me where the Bodine brothers reigned not too many years back, Fonda where Stewart Friesen runs if not NASCAR truck racing (30 miles) and Lebanon Valley (45 miles). I would make one or two of those tracks every weekend but real life (wife and kids!) somehow arrived.
 
I'm interested and am posting this to make sure I can watch the build as it might just land on my eventually list

Last year's Indy winner got me....  {chuckle}
 
Lots of newer companies giving the old standby's a run for the money....

I watched a video of a modeler building a Salvinos stock car. He flashed shop photos on his video where closeup detail of actual NASCAR racers were being worked on. I've looked on the net but haven't located any such photos yet for my own personal reference. Those sure would come in handy for seeing details that I might want to build from scratch. With this first car, I'm primarily interested in seeing how the model goes together and what areas need special attention. I've already found a few things of interest and also am learning the correct stages for painting and assembly. Trial and error works wonders. I never seem to get it right on the first kit and it's always been that way for me no matter the subject material.

For certain. That was a horrible day, but the Intimidator did his own thing. The HANS (Head And Neck System)device became mandatory after that wreck.
 
Anyway, this build will be enlightening. I'll have to see what draws my attention from SalvinosJR.

Yes, please supply photos and location.

Hi all i hope im not breaking any forum rules here! but this is not a sale its a give away! i have an hms victory with complete hull and masts in painted scheme, with all parts and books that i cannot finish, reason is i have no where for it to live when complete and it will most likely end up getting damaged, it would be great if someone could take it on and finish it and enjoy it. I can supply photos if someone is interested, It would need collecting though or i could deliver it within a reasonable distance, again i emphasize this is FREE and i am not looking for any renumeration, just the satisfaction that she will be complete one day. many thanks

I totally agree!

As far as the bulwarks, Occre's can definitely be tricky.  Definitely line them up as best you can, but fortunately you be planking over them, which can cover up small alignment errors.
 
I do have one suggestion about planking that I think Occre does wrong in their instructions.  They have you plank both layers prior to placing the keel.  I would suggest attaching the keel to the first layer of planking, then install the second layer of planking.  I followed the instructions and had a problem where the keel didn't fit properly over the planked hull, and I didn't have a good way to fix it.  By installing the keel prior to the second layer of planking, if something isn't shaped quite right, it can be filled in, then the second layer planking can be shaped to fit around the keel covering the filler.

Will do. Lets see what they say. I figure worst case, most of it will be hidden by the other board on the outside, but it'll be difficult to cover up on the inside. I also have no idea what issues could compound from using these board either.
 
Log #5
 
I decided to go ahead and start bending the 'good' garboard. I clamped it up, but something didn't seem right - it was too short and the cut angle didn't seem to ride up the stem very straight.

 
I left it for a few minutes but my gut was telling me I needed to deal with this now, not when I'm ready to glue. I took it off and tried fitting it again. This time I overlapped the bottom board quite a bit more and it fit 10x better. I still wanted to make sure everything else appeared right. I noted a bit of a 'pucker' around where it met the stem.
 

 
It looked like the stem needed more sanding. I removed the board a second time and sanded the stem down more. I also decided to hit the frames a bit more. Then after some finger fumbling with the clamps and elastics it'll sit like this overnight.
 

 
Whew, into the part that I've been most anticipating as it's the most unfamiliar. Exciting to start the planking. I'm not new to bending wood as I've made a bow before (that's "bow and arrow" bow), but I've never done it with water, or without shaving significant amounts of wood and 'teaching' it to bend over days.
 
We'll see how it goes with Model Expo. I can always work on the paddles, or the OcCre Polaris if it'll be a week or so.

Thanks so much @John Ruy    , no I am not ready to finish the Pegasus  Neanderthals don't rig.  Ĺol. I tried to make the ropes look good and I looked into serving the lines . But my lack  of reading and understanding how things work, lead to a Canadian foot stomping of a serving machine I bought. Lol . Oh well what can you do. I really need to improve  rigging skills before I attempt  the Pegasus.  So I am just going to model things with no strings for awhile. But I may buy another  model to brush up on my rigging skills  .