Ryland Craze

Hi Vaidas, welcome to the forum! 👍😀

Hello Vaidas, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John
 

Hi Jaager,
 
At the moment I want to get an overview for myself on today's card model design fashion. You can image what's a gap is in design quality and technologies from '86 Maly Modelarz kits I used to cut and glue. And answering to your question about scratch modeling from plans - yes, I am experienced in structural design and for this reason my goal is to create from scratch. I will create a build log when start something new. And I choose paper card modeling because I like this material - it's soft, plastic and, after all, kind of wood.

As you survey the card commercial offerings,  I am wondering if by using a program like GIMP, good mapping, and quality textures, you could scratch build just about any vessel with adequate plans?

Welcome to MSW, Vaidas.  We do have more than a few card builders here so feel free to open a log in the kit area.  It's great way to meet others and get help as needed.

Wellcome to MSW, enjoy 

Hello all,
 
So much has changed since I last touched scissors and glue - the plethora of books and drawings, modelling kits, tools, glues, paper and printing quality, laser cut parts, CAD and 3d printing. So, I'm a newbie again, only with the knowledge of initial mistakes and remembering of terrible silicate glue smell and taste from the early 90-ties.
My desire is to build sailship models from scratch, but to stretch my fingers now, I decided to start again with kits. At the moment I'm interested in learning and comparing the technologies from different publishers - how the design is done, what the printing quality is, and what the assembly technology is. And what interests me the most is how different authors create hulls and do planking.
I ordered several kits from Polish, Ukrainian and Lithuanian publishers, and if available - complete kits with accessories and laser cut parts. All in 1:100, 30-40 cm in length range and mid-level complexity. However, not all of them interest me in their story and construction, so I certainly don't plan to finish all of them. I just want to research to understand what is on the market now and what I want to do next with this beauty. So here is my playground
 
regards, vaidas
 
p.s. here is the very first photo I took when I started working on the model in November 2022. It shows that I need to improve my photography skills as well

Thank you for the encouraging words!  

Very nice work, Bryan, and an excellent build log as well. I look forward to following your progress.

Hello from middle Tennessee. Planks are fitting well bending them in the jig. I have had some issues identifying which side of the plank to bevel or rabbet. I used mini wooden clothes pins to clamp the garboard and the second plank.
 

 
Then on the sheer plank there wasn’t enough room for the clothes pins. I drilled small holes in reg. size clothes pins and pulled a rubber band through using a small wire. I looped one end through the other to make an adjustable clamp.


 



 
I noticed a misalignment when looking over the Pram after all the planks were installed.
 

 
 
After placing the skeg and bilge keels the hull was removed and the dagger board case was assembled and installed. The first frame was #3. I used the tick strip given in the manual to place it. After marking for frame #2 placement I used a scrap stick to measure both sides to square it to #3.
 


i decided to bend the inwales like I did the other planks and then cut them in the appropriate position of the boats curve.
 

 
I fitted both stern and bow quarter knees.
 

 
After placing the first pair of thwart frames, I thought it would help me best to fit the thwarts as I go. After one pair was installed, I placed the thwart on the pair and slid the other under so I could mark were I needed to glue it.



I repeated this for the other frames.






Not excited about the instructions saying to boil the small floor cleats. I again turned to my bending jig for an option.
 

 

 
And that brings us to the present. 



 
 
 
 

#0000 steel wool gives a fine smooth matte finish. Very good for removing fuzz from wood.
 
However, be sure you brush or wipe the surface thoroughly so you don't leave steel fragments. Maybe even use a magnet to collect the fine bits. The steel bits may rust over time when exposed to humidity. Personally, I have never seen this problem.
 
With sandpaper you need to brush also to remove grit and wood dust.

I think I understand your question.
 
I glued the knee onto the lower transom before the steps you're asking about. It's earlier in the build log. 
 
At the step you're asking about, you want to sand from the back edge of the charred surface down to the laser line. In this screen shot, the back edge is red and the bevel (laser) line is blue - I hope you can see the colors. 
 

 
I started with the knee, and sanded the back edge to the bevel line at the same angle as the knee connects to the transom. Hold a sanding stick parallel to the knee, and sand until you've beveled down to where the sanding stick is basically touching the knee. If done right, the bevel line should just disappear. You should be able to hold up a straight edge on the knee, and have a straight line from the far end of the knee to the near surface of the lower transom.
 
I then beveled the remaining edges the same way - sand between the back edge and the bevel line until you've just reached the back edge (char is now fully gone) and the bevel line has just disappeared. 
 
The only part you don't sand like this on the lower transom piece is the last 1/8" inch - this will be beveled later after the transom pieces are glued together. I'm referring to the parts below with squares around them - don't sand the bevel there. 
 

 
I hope that helps. 

Hi DonB,
I too am building the Pram. I have a question for you. My stern Transom looks just like the first picture above. It looks to have a tab on top of a tab. The picture below shows only the 1 tab on the Stern transom. My questions is - Did  you cut off the 1st tab on top and then glue the stern knee on ?
 
I don't want to cut off something I shouldn't.
 
Look forward to hearing from you,
 
Dan

Finishing the Forward Superstructure
 
The completion of these steps bring us to page 16 of the instruction book.
 
Filed the parting lines from the metal fittings.  File set purchased at Home Depot.

Next primed the fittings with Mr Primer, thinned with Mr. Color; then painted with XF-26.


Next made a photocopy of the deck, cutout the openings for the fittings, and installed them.  And removed the template.


Next installed the bow break.  The challenge here is to get adhesive on the thin edge of the styrene without a mess.  So dry fitted the break, applied tape on the deck along the edges, removed the break, applied adhesive to the deck, reinstalled the break, slowly removed the tape before the adhesive dried.

Finally installed the hatch coamings, and cleats.  Cleats by Syren Ship Model Company

 
 

Looks as if you are doing well overall. Some filler will be needed at the bow, but that is par for the course.

Moving on with gluing more planks:   In general, I had issues with rabbets fitting snugly onto the preceding planks; the rectangular shapes weren't working well for me. I tried out test rabbets/bevels on scrap pieces of wood, then took the approach that fit with the actual plank. The bow planks fit pretty poorly onto each other; the stern planks are better, but still some room for improvement. The photos at the end of this post show the gaps at the bow.    When gluing the garboards, I wanted to pull down with rubber bands during clamping, while ensuring the plank itself wasn't pulled downward. I wrapped a rubber band around them and clipped it at the top to keep it in place. For future gluings, I found it easier to hold the bow ends with my fingers for 5-10 minutes until it dried, so I was able to abandon this approach.     There's no new ground to cover for bending and gluing the planks, since most build logs have pictures. Below are a few photos as things were progressing. A common pattern for me was a rubber band around the whole model, a flat piece of scrap on top of the plank, and a clip to pull the rubber band tighter against the building board. Clips worked pretty well on the earlier planks, but weren't helpful for the sheer plank.         To keep the sheer plank in place, I made a small block to put under the plank so it wouldn't shift down while the glue dried. I used the same block on the other side as well.        During gluing, I misplaced planks twice - before they completely dried, I drizzled water into the joint to free it and then reglued it. It was worth it to redo them.    It was hard to know for sure how to place each plank, and my results were: The bow end of the planks ended up short of the drawn line The stern end of the planks ended up past the drawn line. I am not sure how to have determined these mis-measurements ahead of time. I don't think either will have a large impact on any of the future steps, and hopefully I can sand and shape the transoms to look good enough. My hat is off to those builders whose planks lined up the right way at both ends! 🎩   I cut out the extra material from both sheer planks where they transition from the lower to the upper stern transoms, first with an x-acto saw blade, then with some sandpaper.   I could see one small seam that was letting light through, so I put a little glue in and clipped it while inspecting the inside of the boat for the first time. It looks really good in there.     Now it was time to do the final sanding at the transoms, some of which I've been putting off until all the planks were glued. I can see some light through the gaps at the bow, and there is just a little to do at the stern.   Once sanded, I inspected it again, and I noticed that one of the sheer planks had a little too much material overlapping the adjacent plank. I masked off the adjacent plank with tape (there was a nice gap to slide the tape into!), and very lightly sanded it down with a sanding stick. Just a little past the char was sufficient; it looks better, and now it doesn't bother me when I look at it.        Overall, I'm pleased with the planking, and I'm pleased to be at this stage of the build.   Stern: Not bad   Bow (Some gaps here to deal with, fitting the rabbets was a struggle...)   Next: filler, and post-planking steps.    

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
I finished the finishing touches on both buckets.

I first added the bucket strapping and drilled the holes for the rope. Then I stained the wood.

I then added the line using the very nice Syren light brown rigging rope (.025)

Finally I added the thwart using a copy of the plan to position it precisely.

I'm getting closer to the end. I will be able to position the two buckets and add a marker buoy. I will finally have to make the oars...
 
 

Fighting with brass has been an experience. Small pieces that go flying across the room led to a lot of searching for lost parts. 
 
As alluded to, I added the other gudgeon and hung the rudder. 
 

 
I’m still not happy with this and it’s the only real disappointment I have in the model. Entirely because of poor skill on my part and the choice of the wrong materials. I can absolutely understand why CA would have been better, but this was done before the conversation with Bob. Thank you, and I’ve learned for next time. 
 
While I was at it I glued the model to its stand and put the dagger board in place. 
 

 
It cuts a nice outline. 
 
On the left hand side of the box you can see the cast white metal parts. Here’s a close up:
 

 
I gave then a couple of coats of gold paint to help them match the brass parts. It’s not a perfect colour match but is close enough to make them look finished in a similar way. 
 
Next was on to the oarlock pads. As with all the photo etched parts the holes for the pins were too small. Here’s a snapshot of the process I used to widen them:
 

 
On a scrap piece of wood I drove one of the nails through each hole, then hammered the pad flat again to eliminate the introduced bend. The nailhead was then cut off short to fit the needs of the model. 
 
After drilling holes for the nail heads into the pads things went together smoothly. 
 

 
I’m very happy with how those turned out. 
 
As an aside, I was playing with ideas for how best to display the oars. My intention is to do something like I did with the dory, making more of an “in use” scene rather than a static model. I want the sail up and in position so I ultimately decided not to place the oars in the oarlocks, which I why I have them positioned the way I do in the above photo.
 
Im open to any ideas or suggestions for extras to build to make it look more like a boat that someone has just rowed out of Harbour, shipped oars and put up the sail. I’m thinking I’ll build/paint all four oars and then bind them together with some leftover rope and place then toward the bow. 
 
Which brings me to the next project, sanding down the oars to shape. 
 

 
Once that’s done I’ll paint them and get started on sailmaking. I plan to incorporate the pockets for the sail battens as described on DanB’s log (suggested there by Veszett Roka). I think they’re an important detail which will add a lot. 

Looking good and I think I’m ready to start the sills. The batten has a nice flow from stem to stern. What I found remarkable was that each laser mark was .470” from the top of each bulkhead extension. Also, when fairing the starboard side, I made the exact same mistake on bulkhead L and it too needed a shim. At least I’m consistent. 
I have a Byrnes 4” disk sander on order that should be here in a day or so. I’m going to wait on doing the sills until the sander arrives so I can give it a test drive. Here’s a few pictures. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Glenn, that’s exactly what I’m doing. The batten runs very nicely across all bulkheads the length of the hull. I’m actually very impressed that I don’t have any bumps or dips. I’m sure that some tweaking will be needed when I start planking. 
 
Thanks for checking in and having my back!
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Glenn, thank you for the Zen! I added a shim to bulkhead “L” as there was a flat spot. Good call!
 
 Bob, being this is my first effort at this type of hull I have a lot of angst. More sanding at the bow was needed (which I knew), more light sanding was needed along the entire hull was needed and that went a long way.
 
The batten flow looks good but not perfect. Any suggestions!
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

I’ve done some fairing on the port side and here’s the first test with a batten, and here’s what I see. The bow filler needs a lot more sanding to get the batten into to rabbet. It looks like the aft end of the port filler needs to have material removed. The one that concerns me the most, is bulkhead B. There’s a gap at that bulkhead. Did I take too much off, or do the bulkheads on either side need be sanded some more? Need input! Thanks!
 
Best Regards …. Rick

I bought a Sherline with the extended bed and no CNC in August and love it

 
For my purposes is is perfect

Thank you Mike, Chuck, Glenn and Grant for the kind words.
 
Mike your definition of fun just might differ a bit from mine. 
 
Grant I'm way more human than you think. In one form or another this is a daily occurrence!  
 
I've finished the gangways. Like Chuck I glued the long gangboards flush to the caprail prior to adding the knees.
I figured that was the only way I could ensure them being flush with the caprail.
 

 
Then I took the laser cut newel post, cleaned it up and added the fancy rails.
 

 
I just have to fix the broken deadeyes and add the eye bolts and chapter 11 should be complete.
 
 
 

Thanks, Ken! It's always nice to hear that.