Ryland Craze

Your blog is also a great course in model building.  Your work is top drawer.
Excellent.
Cheers.

Build board (pt. 2 )
The aft keel and stern post support jig was completed first. To narrow the gap, I added about three layers of tape until the inside dimension at the closed end of the slot was about equal to that of the keels width. I used blue painters tape, followed by a final layer of white Ph neutral artist tape. https://www.dickblick.com/items/blick-masking-tape-acid-free-natural-1-x-60-yds/ I did this to prevent any chance of the blue color eventually rubbing off onto the keel.
 
The keel was then slid into the slot in the jigs base. I clamped the open end of the slot against the keel which held everything together while aligning. After everything was aligned on the drawing, I drilled the holes in the jigs base for the bolts that would hold it down. The bolt size doesn't really matter though the holes were drilled larger into the build board allowing for some shifting of the base sideways, if needed.
 
The upright for the stern post was added after the jig was locked down. I added some tape here as well in order to close the gap in the slot. The upright has a laser cut tab that fits into a wider slot in the base. This allows for the upright to be shifted sideways in order to get the stern post vertical.

I made a jig in order to position a machinist square 90° to the keel while leaning it back against the stern post.


The forward keel and knee support jig was done basically the same way as the aft one with one small change. I went with a custom made taller knee support. I felt that it held it more firmly and made it easier to set the stem vertical. I can always remove it later if necessary should it get in the way of things. Here is photo for comparison showing the lower and upper support.

A machinist square was placed against the stem, not the stemson, as a means for getting the knee vertical.

After the fore and aft jigs were completed, I made a simple jig in order to see if the keel was square to the drawing. You can just make out the line close to the base of the jig.

Mike

Just a quick update...all of the aft cant cant frames in this step have been completed.  This includes framing the sill for the aft-most port and the frames there.  Then I just completed the remaining few.  Fairing was done on both sides as well.  But I still have to add the treenails to those aft cant frames.  I will do that first before moving forward to the next step.
 

 

 
There are still a few cant frames left but that will be done in the next step...
 
That will require a new jig along the top of the model for alignment and I must make the wing transom as well.
 
More updates to follow soon.   But its getting there.
 

 
 

You could glue some scrap pieces of wood to the outer edges of the build board where the transom meets the build board.  This would keep the transom parallel to the build board and also keep it from rocking side to side.

Beautiful model.  Your work will be an inspiration for future Cheerful modelers.

CaptnBirdseye - I shall follow your build log with interest. By the way - if you have not ordered wood from Vahur (Hobbymill EU) before then you have a treat in store. Its beautiful stuff.
Good luck
Fred

Thank you gentlemen for your very kind thoughts which I greatly appreciate.
 
Glenn - I have not heard of liquitex until your post above. I see it is available in the UK (unlike wipe on poly which I seems to be the go-to finish on your side of the Atlantic) so I shall give it a try. Does it have adhesive qualities as well as providing a  matt finish? At the moment I paint a little matt varnish on to the knots after CA-ing them but it does not completely rescue the mess CA can make.

I'm sure you're right.
 
Steven

I've been busy over the last days with the USS Arizona. I decided to weather a bit, because no ship ever looks clean and because I wanted to learn weathering on ships.
But first to the decals. Luckily there are not many and that's definitely a pro for ship modeling. These here are the new incarnation of Eduard decals which have to be cut out, because the carrier film is not. After application, they looked like this with silvering and reflecting carrier film.
 

 
Eduard claims, the carrier film of these newer decals can be removed, leaving an almost painted on result. Hmm, sounds good, but after peeling off the carrier film very carefully all the decals had stencil lifts .. My underlayer maybe was not perfect, but it was not too shabby either with a coat of gloss GX100 from Mr. Color.
Before I try these again on a larger scale, I would test on some mules. With the carrier film on, they look worse than other decals, quo vadis Eduard?
 

 
Next I prepared some of the tiny printed parts for painting, like AA-guns and searchlights, which will be added to the superstructures after the weathering stage.
 

 
Like I said above, I gloss coated the model, to have a good base for weathering for which I used Tamiya panel liners, but mainly brown oil colors for the first step. My technique is to apply oils liberally and not to scarce with a larger synthetic brush. Different areas were treated with different mixing ratios of oil color and matte finish whit spirit. After a short period of drying, I spread the colors again with help of a bit of thinner and try to work in the direction of the flow, hull downwards and reduce the amount of oil color accordingly. This time, I used the oil color from one of AK's oil pens, and these oil are of a lesser quality, than my normally used from Abt 502.
 
This is where I am now, albeit after taking the photos, I knocked back the effect a bit more, a true benefit of oil rendered weathering.
 

 

 
Cheers Rob
 

Looks absolutely wonderful Fred, and yes between you and Glenn, I'm very sorely tempted to do a Cheerful. Maybe a year or two down the line it may come to fruition.
Winnie is keeping my hands full at the moment.
After seeing what great work you've done with Cheerful, I think you'd certainly make a Winnie to be proud of.
 
 

Impressive stuff Fred! I've just received mine and awaiting timber package from Vahur. Think there's plenty of ideas to steal...er i mean borrow
Again, really well done. 👍
 

Your Cheerful looks great Fred, congratulations! Amongst many other fine features I do like Chuck's new blocks, wish I'd had them for mine. You've done a really fine job and should be justly proud. Everything is so nice and crisp. I think we can both agree Cheerful is a great build.
 
I noted your comment about seizings and CA. Try Matte Medium Clear Acrylic (I use Liquitex) instead of the CA on the seizings, it dries clear, easier to apply, and looks more natural.  I made the switch when I build Cheerful, it works great.

Steven,
 
Thank you for your warm welcome.  I appreciate the information that you have provided; it is very helpful.  I have chosen the Bluenose - Model Shipways - MS2130.  It is intimidating but I feel with the information, guidance, and expertise available, I can build her.  I have always been fascinated with sailing ships. 
 
Today, I carve the rabbit in the keel.
 
Thank you again for the warm welcome and information.
 
Joe

good evening everyone
Day 18 1st planking
 
as soon as i left the make up of the hull, i have had to start thinking about things, and this has resulted in some redo's, lol no matter how much fairing you do, there is always more
 
anyway the hull is is about 50% done and although bit messy in places, i have a sound basis  to work on
and yes i am still missing one part number 29 stern post filler, and the one fitted need working on
 
 
 





 

Hi Joe, and welcome to MSW. Have you chosen a particular ship for your first model? I'd recommend you read these pages before starting out: 
And when you do get under way, start a build log - it's a great way to get help and advice (and we get to see your progress as you build your model).
 
If you are building a kit, use this: 
or if you're building from scratch, use this one.
 
And above all, have fun with it. That's the whole point of this wonderful hobby.
 
Steven

Fairing The Hull
When I first started modelling and built AL’s Scottish Maid and then Caldercraft’s HMS Victory I followed the method detailed in the simple hull planking techniques document and drew a beading line and then tapered the keel to the edge to account for the additional thickness when the 1st and 2nd planking had been completed.
 
Since then, I have followed the method shown in several of Jim’s build logs which is to terminate the 1st planking at around the stern’s beading line area thus removing the need to taper the keel.
 
The first task was to draw on some sanding guide lines for the stern and bow fillers. You will note in one of the attached photo’s I used some 1mm masking tape to check the position of the beading line.

 
With my new palm sander raring to go I have started to fair the hull and I am working from the bow toward the stern, currently at the midpoint along the left-hand side of the hull and for the most part everything looks good. This is task that cannot be rushed and I am checking to see how the planks are laying over the bulkheads, particularly looking for good and full contact around the curved bow area at the moment.
 
The bow area still needs more attention as I’ve detailed in the attached series of photo’s where I am moving a plank down the bow to check for contact. I have added yellow arrows to indicate where I think I need to fair more so that planks will lay flat. The blue arrows indicate where the planks are not fully flush with the bulkhead(s).

 
In the final photo I have indicated, with the red lines, where I think more fairing is needed. I would welcome any advice to ensure I get this aspect right especially if you think I am wrong with what needs to be done to enable the planks to sit flush.

Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.
 

What an absolutely beautiful job on Smuggler!! Congratulations and thanks for a great build log, it will be very helpful as this could very well be my second build. The support you received from the members here and from the Bluejacket folks themselves during the build is reassuring. The solid hull concerns me, but hey, I get to buy some new tools, gouges and chisels, a secondly, I need the experience with a solid hull. I have a Wye River Bugeye I picked up at a thrift store a few months back that I was contemplating it as a second build, but I'm afraid she's going to have to wait a bit longer, probably quite a bit longer!  Tim

Wonderful work Fred! Your cheerful has turned out just excellent. I think your rigging looks very nice and clean, it brings the model to life very well.

Such a beautiful Cheerful model.   Looks fantastic.

Thanks chaps for your kind remarks. Here is an update on my Cheerful build. The end is in sight for a much enjoyed project.
 
I hoped the sheer pole would enable me to pull my wonky deadeyes into facing front. Here are the outer two:
 

And here all four. I'm pleased with the outcome. The sheer pole looks a bit curved in the picture but it is straight enough on the model. Looking at the picture I shouls perhaps have worked a little harder on the Syren deadeyes with fine paper.

And here the lanyards tied off. A bit scruffy but the best I could do.

Starting work on the ratlines. Chuch's instructions say use .12 rope. I tried it and thought .18 looked better. Big mistake and one I cannot undoe without destroying all the rigging done to date and that is a bridge too far for me. Not only do the lines look too thick but the wider diameter rope significantly increases the size of the knots. Irritating - but, oh well,  live and learn!
 
I also dragged in one of the outside shrouds (aft starboard - see below). Not quite  kiss of death territory but practice required.
 




 


Starting on the backstays
 


 

I struggle a bit with seizing lines together/to blocks. Cotton thread seems sometimes to take on a determination to go its own way rather than where its wanted. That or just getting too much CA so the knot is a little disfigured. Again more practice required.
 
Here using the cathead for temporary tightening a line. A lot of this section of rigging requires careful tensioning in particular to keep the yard arm where it shoud be.




 

Thats all for now. Not much to do and I shall be done. I heartily recommend Cheerful to anyone contemplating a semi scratch build. 
 
All the best
Fred
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Cap rails installed, being sanded down to fit.

Thwarts in.

And of course it's time to start the ratlines.

Here's the 3/32 deadeyes on the fore top. Really tough to get them nice and even. I spent 1 1/2 hours on it.