Ryland Craze

Painted the outside of the hull. 8 coats! The line where the two colors meet is not as crisp as I would have liked, but is not bad enough to obsess over.
 

 
After obsessing over this for an hour (haha), I went back in to see if I could make this neater. BTW, I caused this problem by masking before painting the hull exterior, instead of taking the author's advice and simply dragging a flat brush at 90 degrees to the edge. I did improve it using this method, but think further work would be detrimental.
 

Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through.
 
BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

STAGE 98: SUN VISORS & REAR VIEW MIRROR

The liner is now fitted with the sun shields and rear view mirror. 



The liner itself now just pushes into place with no problems. 

The aerial is perhaps the only real puzzling part for me. This should've ideally been a push fit for the last item added, but instead it needs to be screwed into the underside of the body before you can fit it, providing a hazard from this point on as you work on the model. Take care with that aerial!

 

STAGE 97: HEADLINER

Even though you get the liner, you can't fit it yet. Instead, both doors are fitted. Make sure these are nice and tight. They should also face a little resistance when pushed fully closed, giving them a positive close-fit.


 

STAGE 96: DOOR TRIM AND SILL PLATES

Those sparse door entry points need prettying up, so these trims and sills are now added. These just push into place with zero fuss on both driver and passenger side.


 

STAGE 93: UPPER VENT GRILLE STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW

The windshield wipers from the previous stage are now screwed into position on the upper vent grille, and the panel slid into place on the body, then screwed into position. 





 
 
STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW & STAGE 95: REAR WINDOW FRAME & RADIO ANTENNA

You know the drill! Both rear window and frame fit nicely into position with ease.



 
 

Pack 12
This is it folks....the final work on this behemoth, and the finished result is VERY heavy and impressive. I've had a snag along the way that delayed me posting this. When you manoeuvre your car around, DO NOT put the weight of the model on any of the back wheels. I did that and snapped the wheel fixing point of the rear axle. You live and learn, and it was so frustrating. 
 
STAGE 91: WINDSHIELD & STAGE 92: WINDSHIELD FRAME AND WIPERS

Real care needs to be taken not to touch the main clear area of the windscreen, for obvious reasons. Thankfully, this just sits neatly in place with zero effort, and the windshield frame locks it into position with a few clicks. 


 
 

The chicken coop was a bit of a fun part.  It's mostly lasered and the slats are all panels to ensure consistent spacing.  The vise consists of 8 or so pieces and is large enough that you can thread the screw and have it operate.

The tryworks consists of a laser-cut wood box with the brick pattern etched into its sides.  The individual bricks are lasered from cork.  Each course of bricks is laid with a 1/64" spacer to ensure consistent spacing.  Once the brickwork is completed, it is sprayed with red oxide primer and, when that has dried, it is grouted with Spackle.  Looks amazingly real when dry.  They offer the tryworks as a separate kit, too.

This is one of the more unusual items Nic has had me create.  It's at 1/24 scale and is intended to be planked on one side, left unplanked on the other.  It shows about 20 feet of the actual hull and includes the tryworks.  There are about 800 bricks in the tryworks, so it takes an hour or so to build...🙂

I'm happily back at work on Winnie. Duchess of Kingston will now go on pause until I complete Chapter five.
 
The first thing done was was to make, shape and fit out the rudder, using the laser cut parts. I drilled and filed  the rudder opening  and painted the edge black. I followed Chuck's suggestion to use only two pins to mount the rudder.Much easier than trying to fit five of them.
 
Next, I added the rudder trunk and benches, again using the laser cut parts. You can see from the photos that I added the extra triangular bench top supports to protect against warping.
 
Lastly, I made up and added the sill from strip cedar. All of the work was given a coat of Wipe-0n Poly.
 
Bob
 
 

In dire need of planking & spiling practice before tackling the next project, I was so pleased to come across NRG 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit .
 
Actually, this project was started just after last Christmas as a present (to myself) and is now just about finished except for the mounting. I knew I would be dragging this one out because I would be experimenting  with different wood, adhesives, wood bending, finishing, etc. and wanted all that to be done on one model rather than one model at a time. That being said, there would be large gaps in posting the log of a relatively small kit.
 

 
 
Mike

good afternoon everyone
 
i will have to rethink the belaying pin racks, the kit provides for 7 pins on all masts this needs to be at least 13, so i will have to go back a scratch my head
 
please let me know if you are getting bored of my updates, i love to show the ups and downs of my builds, but  im happy to cut down to once a week if it is desired
 
 

 
not my photo
 

 
the balcony work continues

Good evening everyone
 
Thank you for likes and comments
 
i have started pinning parts in place, nothing will be fixed until i have put the right colour  green in the upper banding
 
prop is now fitted, and the stern decoration is in place, to get this to fit i sanded the reverse side, it was a lot easier to get into the right shape after taking 2mm off
 
tonight first test fit of the veranda, in the first build, this was miles out, this time nothing has been filed to get a fit
 
everything is pinned but not secured
 
im waiting for some strips to arrive to put under the green banding, that will hide the over painting

need to look at that gap, not seen it before

 
 

Slowly making progress though sometimes it's two step forward and one in reverse.   This bit was a combination.  I was one plank too high on the aft.. had to remove it.  But planking above the wale is installed, gunports cut and sized.  Also a light sanding.  Gap filling will happen after all hull planking is done.  

My biggest concern was that I might break my 0ne and only #77 drill.  Being patience and stopping when my fingers got tired paid  off.  Very glad I did it, brings life to the hull.  I did manage to put some dings in the planks when trimming the nails but have been able to sand most of them out.

Thank you Glenn and Mike for your kind words and thanks to all the 'Likes'.

Glenn, cherry is really a beautiful wood and the quality provided by Wood Project Source is really excellent. Too bad they are out of business.
Mike, this project is really interesting and indeed a lot of fun.
 
Just a little progress this week with the installation of the first layer of the molding just under the gunports.
They had to be positioned just 1/64" below the edge of the gunports. It's really a small rabbet... I again used a temporary batten strip to try to be as precise as possible.
 

 

 
I started dividing the open space between the wales and the molding in half so I could prepare the planking.

 

Planking is finished.  It took a fair amount of sanding.  I guess if I had done a better job of planking (bending and tapering planks more carefully), I wouldn't have had to sand as much.  I found planking this small model more difficult than a larger model.  But it was certainly a good learning experience.
 
I also glued on stern post, which is just a small triangular piece of wood, and did a little more sanding.  Then I put on stain to see what it would look like. 
 
I'm curious what anyone thinks about leaving hull stained instead of painting below waterline white.  I've seen a lot of models painted white below the waterline.  I'm guessing this is more scale than leaving it natural wood.  I like some paint on a model as an accent, but I think I like the natural wood color, and it shows off planking for what that's worth. 
 

Hello everyone, 
 
Well I got my new planks this afternoon, but life once again stands in the way of decent progress. Thankfully I’m patient enough for a nice afternoon in my ship yard. It will probably be a solid week or two before I can sit down and get some work done, not to mention my other ship model that have been starving for attention! Thats it for now, just want to let you all know I haven’t given up, thanks again. 
 
Bradley 

Thanks Rusty and Diver for the comments.
 
Diver, to answer your question, yes I am building in an engine room.  Winchelsea will be my 4th boat built... on a boat and she comes in second For overall nautical miles under her keel!
 
I started Adding the panels to the stbd side tonight, making sure they are as close to the port as possible. A little trick I used to insure that the panels are square and lined up perfectly to the ports, I used a flat piece of wood that sits parallel to the gunport frame, glued it to the deck and wedged it in the frame, from there I can keep test fitting the panel until it fits perfectly between the two ports. When It comes time to glue it in place I can just put it up against the port with the wooden block and set the elevation and it will fit just as it’s supposed to without worrying about it moving side to side. I also used this on all the spirketting between the gunports as well. Hope Someone finds this is helpful.
JJ
 

They were very heavy engines for sure. Like the Caddy's and Lincoln's.
Used to be, the route to a real fast, cheap to build drag car, was to drop a used Caddy engine and tranny into a Chevy Vega. There were hot rod Lincoln's, too. But I don't ever recall seeing one of these '55 Chrysler 300's. Don't think there were too many of them sold, probably kinda expensive. I read they didn't come with air conditioning as an option in '55, and that would hurt sales potential in southern states competing with Lincoln's and Caddy's which did offer AC.

Nice start. That gold accent really yells 50s at you! 
That engine and tranny probably weighed half as much as a full modern car!

A couple of weekends ago, had the pleasure of attending a scale model swap meet at a local hobby shop. Modelers from all over the state brought dozens of models for sale or trade. I ended up buying quite a few model car and truck kits including this one, the 1:25 Moebius 1955 Chrysler 300. 
 

 
In 1955, this Chrysler was equipped with a 330 cubic inch Hemi V-8 engine with a factory installed dual four barrel carb intake manifold. While it was a heavy car, the powerplant made it quite a good performer and it was sought after by drivers on the big race track circuit.
I've decided to add extra scratch built details to this build and have started by doing my own custom made fan belt, power steering, and water pump pulley's. Also, the fan belts are custom made along with a scratch made bracket for the power steering pump. The engine colors are stock. Have not decided yet on the interior/exterior colors I will use. Will be working this one slowly and will not be in a rush to finish it.
Moebius packs a lot of detail into their scale model car and truck kits.
 

 

Syren Ship Model