Ryland Craze

NOTE: I would consider sanding a little more taper in the counter piece, (green line vs the red line) to allow less bend in the planks that bend up the counter. 
 
If I would have read the practicum and CiscoH’s post on the aft end bend of the planks, I would have known about sanding the counter filler more to lessen the sharpness of the bend.  Also, one of the comments that @mikiek made to CiscoH's post was to lessen the sharpness of the bend.
Not only would this reduce the cracking at the bend but make the center side of the plank easier to glue down to the filler.
 

Post 92
Pendents of tackles
I have re-visited these as the blocks and seizings looked too heavy to my eye, and as they are fitted before the shrouds, need to be  attended to now.
I unpicked the seizings and re-used the Pendents.
This time I used  a 2mm diameter  thimble  from Chuck’s new Resin range.

4798a

4810a
It is quite small but matches the size of 5” suggested by David Antscherl in his FFM Book (Vol IV.) The next size up 3mm, looked a tad too large to my eye.
 
I think this range of thimbles will prove very useful for ship modellers. 👍
 
Gaff and Main Boom
This is an opportune time to attach these to the Mainmast, easier before the shrouds are rigged.
I used Boxwood parrel beads rather than the shiny black kit versions.

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These were coloured using Dark oak wood stain.

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No rigging for these items but seized together for convenience.
I may rig the sheet simply to hold the booms in place.
 
B.E.
21/06/2025

After a break of a few days, it was back to work on the main gear. Here's a shot to give you an idea of just how much work that entailed:

 
Not surprisingly, the work required several sessions, but it's now done.

Nice to hear from  you yvesidal and mtdoramike.  I have looked at and learned from both of your Calypso builds. 
The Calypso holds many memories for me growing up watching the Undersea World of Jaques Cousteau. 
 
Today I was able to do a few fun mini projects. Built the ladder for the ship's chimney, constructed the satellite dome, built the legs for the helicopter landing platform, and drilled openings in the foredeck for the anchor chain and towers.  I decided to back up the underdeck for the towers to create a stronger attachment point. 

Here are the final jig parts for the moment, these two mdf pieces mount on top of the aft jig assembly and give support to the tallest bulkhead extensions at the level of the Quarterdeck, they also hold the parts for the gunports.
 

Me too Rusty!

Very nice Ben. The more I see your progress the more excited I get!

Nice job on the stern frames, everything looks really good.

All six counter Timbers installed, the other horizontal ones are for the framing of the aft gunports and the other transoms.
The long runners down each side of the ship are not yet glued in place, just there to keep everything in its place until this stern framing is completed.
 



 


 

I am sorry guys I forgot my camera but I received 1st,2nd in 1/32 prop missed in the 1/48 prop with my Academy B-25 PBJ and struck 3rd in the 1/48 jet with the F-84 from Tamyia the F-84 was last minute.The contest had a decent showing of 246 entries this year my buddy and I had fun he garnered 2/3 place with his 1/48 Fw-190 Eduard with all the goodies and a 1/72 Me-262 bomber version.The buddy bought $20 worth of raffle tickets and won about six kit and bought four more.

Sanded, filled, and sanded; ready for second planking now.  Just have to attach stem and keel finish pieces.  The rabbet is good, and the first planking in way of the rudder/stern area is thinned to allow for second planking there to be flush to the finish keel and stern/rudder post.  I had to thin the first planking in that area down to paper thin to do that, and the second planking there will have to be sanded down pretty thin, but it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Nick

Back into this after a long and partly forced break.
 
I have the first planking on now.  The pic shows her after some initial sanding, more to do.  Also some filling will be necessary.  I struggled here and there, but gradually got more used to it.  The clinker effect in the bow area was a bit frustrating; wish I'd come across Chuck Passaro's videos before .... 
Nick

I'm well advanced on getting the new hull build back to where it was before my blunder.  I've gone more slowly and carefully this time.
 
I spent a lot more time fitting the subdeck, which is what caused the problem last time.  I trimmed the notches, and again and again, until a got a good dry fit, and the "satisfying click" per the instructions.  At that point, I decided to leave well enough alone, and to glue the subdeck down from underneath using blocks (pic below); it just works for me.
 
So far the subdeck is glued from forward to about midships with blocks.  This time I used small pine blocks cut from scrap instead of mdf, which I fount can flake off.  You can see some of the blocks in the pic.
 
At the stern, I slipped in some wedges to be able to get glue into the hull/frame intersection; that's worked well.  I just have to finish the other blocks tomorrow.
 
Everything is good and square.
 
Dry-fitting the outer bulwarks ply parts has already shown that they line up perfectly.
 
Aside:  I think there's a truth to all modelling: 1 your workspace is never big enough, and 2 however big your workspace is, it gets smaller all the time as you accumulate tools etc around what you're working on.
 
In the interim before getting all of the replacement parts, I started to look at the 3-pounder cannon.  Pics below, just dry-fitted; quoin not in; I drilled out the tubes.  I want to rig them, and have been looking at some photos online.  Rigging "secured" seems the way to go so far.  I also want some colour, as previously mentioned, and for now am thinking about painting them ochre yellow, whether or not that's historical on this ship, it was done at the time.  I also want to thin down the capsquares.
 
Nick

I agree the lowered topmasts look most interesting and least obscuring.  Gets my vote, if you were looking for opinions

In the lowered position would be an interesting and somewhat unusual way for a model to be displayed B.E. and therefore adds an extra degree of interest to the model. I’m liking this arrangement.

This has my vote too, BE.
 
I like the appearance of a working ship because it adds a great deal of interest and uniqueness to the model.  On my slowly building Sphinx, for example, I intend to have one of the boats being lowered from the pendants.
 
Nipper

The beginning of the stern framing starts with the “wing” transom, this part has etched and cut into it the positions for the counter Timbers and the aft gunports.
I carefully removed the laser char and then using heat I bent it into shape so that it clicked into the jig slots correctly.
It only gets glued to the central former at the moment - NOT to the jig pieces!


 

It came with the kit Mike I did have to add the top cover the switch/potentiometer mounts on to though.The hardest part was the mounting of the micro engine I started further in the engine assembly but friction played a great factor.I was sitting one evening and a thought hit me ......mount it in the front crankcase assembly? I thought ...NO!! ...but it fit!So I can now outfit the rest whether it be a Spit or a P-51!

She is up on her stand just a little more work on the exhaust staining and the headers.
 
 

If you don’t mind a casual observer’s opinion, I like the version with the top masts lowered, it gives a sense of impending activity, and goes well with your setup for the gaff and driver boom.. But I also like the cutter raised up, as it makes viewing the deck easier, or, at least, less cluttered. Perhaps instead of the top masts, it could be resting on the main and fore yards instead? Maybe a little more work but it would give you the best of both options.
 
Andy

Decidedly esoteric. But that's what many of us do!
I don't see that the ship's boat are too obscured by the topmasts on the gallows; I like this detail given your choices on a minimized rigging presentation. Looking wonderful!

Thank you Glenn for your very kind comment, much appreciated.
 
Post 91
Topmast options
I’ve yet to decide  how to display the Topmasts, so I’ve been having a play around before the shrouds are fitted.
The possibilities are:
In the usual raised  position.

4749a 
4751a
.. but this is a non starter, I haven’t room for another tall masted model, but she would look beautiful fully rigged.
 
In a lowered position secured by Top ropes.

4755a

4760a

4756a
This has the advantage that it doesn’t increase the height very much. Also provides an interesting rigging arrangement.
 
Secured on the Gallows.

4761

4766a
The simplest and obvious location for stowing non fitted Topmasts, but tends to obscure somewhat Chris’s beautiful little cutter, particularly if I decided to store Sweeps on the Gallows.
 
With the Cutter atop the masts on the Gallows

4768a

4770a

4771a
a recognised arrangement, which on a practical level clears the deck and displays the cutter to the full extent.
 
I don’t need to decide  until the shrouds are fitted, but the lowered Topmast position is the one I’m favouring.
 
B.E.
19/06/2025
 

making progress in the hold area. almost done, just a few things left to take care of. right now, I'm concentrating only on construction. fitting out the space will come after I finish the hull... or in between burn outs, lol...
 









 
and another walkthrough video...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKy6i_ElLVM

Here you go....
 
ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf

Sure!  As I just stated in a thread a day or so ago, I'm a sucker for little tools/gadgets like this! 🤷‍♂️👍