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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    When it comes to placement of the deck furniture at least you do have King's sketch which allows a more accurate plan than the guesstimate in the instruction manual! Rick
  2. Rick01
    I'd be tempted to rotate the companionway 90 degrees facing it forward - it looks as if it's only that way to allow for the binnacle. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Check this out - I know it's Russian but it is a cutter and shows a pin rail split by a gun port plus a neat boom support on the transom plus of course another deck layout!! 🙂 https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17571-avos-1806-tender-by-greenstone-master-korabel-172-test/& Rick
  4. Rick01
    How/who do I contact when this model becomes available locally? Rick
  5. Rick01
    Will this be available in Australia and if so who will be carrying it? Rick
  6. Rick01
    You can't see it clearly but I did have twin sheaves on the catheads. It's about three years back since I built this and it was my second build so I can't recall clearly but if I'm right I considered a boom jaws/support but decided that I couldn't see anywhere that would take one with the required strength to fully support the boom or be relatively out of the way for deck operations. Maybe the rear of the companionway would be OK but that then stops the "lid" from opening flat. I followed the convention of satin finish varnish on wooden exterior surfaces with black finish on rails and wales and a white finish to the hull below the bottom wale. As I said - you buy your base model then add extras to suit your own style! I've also seen them with access to crew quarters up in the bows via a sliding hatch near the windlass and with anchor cables leading back to the second hold. Have a look at my "Mermaid" build, that deck layout is different again and is taken directly from its commander's sketches and is a similar size cutter to "Lady Nelson" but was built in Indian dockyards. The more you look the more you get confused!! Rick
  7. Rick01
    I dropped part 25 so that it supported the bowsprit which in turn is resting on part 27. A line from this part to the groove in the bulwarks gives a line that is near parallel to the waterline (bugger - just noticed that I reversed parts 32/33 !! ). As for the reinforcing knees I did add these at the stern as the whole assembly just didn't appear strong enough without them. you'll notice that I've also added a horse above and behind the tiller. It's almost as if you bought a basic hull then optioned it up yourself - same as buying a car these days. What size motor/how many cylinders = how many guns/weight of guns. Leather/cloth seats = companionway opens forward/aft. 🙂 Rick
  8. Rick01
    You could always cut them off flush to the cap rail, fill, sand and paint until there's no longer any sign of them. It's got to be less of a problem than making your own. 😉 Rick
  9. Rick01
    I'm afraid I cheated here. Looked at the castings and decided, after checking out various period models, that I'd omit them totally. Rick
  10. Rick01
    Check this out for a short discussion/build of the type of windlass your cutter would have carried. Rick
  11. Rick01
    OK - the windlass actually is used to raise and lower the anchors. Bit hard to see on that one but you can just make out the anchor cable running off the windlass and through the gunwales. The illustration in the drawings is pretty cramped but the ratchet system would stop the anchor cable running out unless that tab was lifted. As I understand it the bowsprit would have had a peg running through its support (part 26) just in front of the windlass pinning it in place, this would be knocked out and the bowsprit moved in or out in increments possibly using in/out haul rigging not connected to the windlass , the bowsprit obviously needs to clear the top of the windlass to allow for it to be hauled further in. In that illustration you've found the pinrail runs along side the bowsprit and would be attached to some other fixed mounts there and is coincidental to the rest of the fixtures there. Hopefully this makes sense - if not yell and I'll dig up some illustrations (I hope). Rick
  12. Rick01
    Not sure about brass blackener on copper I couldn't source it in Aus. when I did my build so got "crude but effective" hit them with my gas blowtorch then painted with Tamiya "gunmetal" . It stuck to the eyebolts quite effectively. I've a collection of those metal cast pumps, I'm getting quite good at making both pumps and gun carriages now. ;-) Rick
  13. Rick01
    It's been a while since I did mine, but as I remember I started at the bow and worked back. Are you painting the windlass, pumps etc. and I assume you're going to ditch the supplied pumps and make your own. You also need to install ringbolts in the gunwales for the ship's cannon tackle at this point. Not a fun job if you forget and the have to do this once the masts and Rigging have been completed (not saying why I know this 😉 ). Parts 32 & 33 you may want to consider a thinner 32 then drill it for 2 belaying pins, otherwise you end up belaying ropes to the knight heads only. On the stern, the "brackets" either side of the tiller have eyebolts fitted, I omitted the two immediately to the rear and substituted a horse instead. Seemed to make more sense and I have seen this arrangement on other models of this era. Whilst down this end check page 30 of Petersson, it shows an elbow again with belaying pins which I've added. There never seem to be enough belaying points - I'm pretty sure they'd have a few extra over and above the standard rigging requirements. Rick
  14. Rick01
    It also makes the construction simpler, trying to line up that many "frames" properly is a pain in the backside! Rick
  15. Rick01
    Didn't make sense to me so I omitted it completely and ran the second layer of planking right up to the top of the bulwarks. Did the same on the inside of the bulwarks and omitted the simulated "frames" mentioned at 5.7.3 as my own investigations of contemporary models seemed to indicate that the frames were planked over during that period. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Tree nails for the decking haven't been mentioned yet but in case you're considering them here's a photo of full size decking showing how they blend in. I believe whoever spilt the tar pot was probably keelhauled and then left for our local White Pointers!! Rick
  17. Rick01
    Before you get too far fitting the second planking take time to sort through it all and pull out any rough/cracked/knotty bits. As I remember my kit there was a small? amount of rubbish included which I put aside as there were always short lengths that were salvageable. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Looking good - this log will work beautifully as the definitive guide to "The Cutter Lady Nelson" with the "deliberate" errors showing how you need to think each set of actions through. Rick.
  19. Rick01
    If and when you do I'm going to love following your builds! Rick
  20. Rick01
    Here's a shot of a working replica of a 53' topsail schooner pin rail. Belaying pins are about 40 cm long and you can see that there's a reasonable gap (probably about 1/2 length of the pin) allowing for easy access for rope. Rick
  21. Rick01
    You know you'd have been pretty mad with me if I'd let you carry one and lay the deck without the waterway. 😉 Whilst we're at it - have you thought about making the deadeye with 5 holes for the mainstay? Not needed for a while I know but just thought I'd ask! Rick
  22. Rick01
    Looking good - I particularly like the hinges and door knobs. I found that the heads of brass nails worked quite well when I was making mine. I also faced the companionway backwards - most of the contemporary models I've looked at are oriented that way. You probably haven't spotted it yet but the part number 44 (belaying pin rail) has the pins way to close together. At some point I've got to remove mine and refit with probably two rails each side. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Long time since I did mine but as I recall I did the same as you have and did the first planking trying to leave the correct space for the keel and stem. I then looked at the plans and decided that the instructions were stupid so dry fitted the keel and stem trimming the excess first planking until they fitted fairly neatly, glued them in place then proceeded with the final planking. Forgot to say I actually hated all the ply fittings so I spent a few hours making solid ones from a 3/16th (I think) sheet bought for the purpose. If you go with the original parts, fit then plank remembering that the grain needs to run the full length of the stem. Rick
  24. Rick01
    I fitted before the last planking. Reason being that this way you guarantee to have the timber fitted tightly up to the keel and stem post. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Just one thing to remember - make sure that you can fit the irons through the mortise before gluing it all up. Very embarrassing when you find the mortise slightly too narrow (as I found out ) and have to rebuild it. Rick

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