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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    I was actually in two minds about posting as I know you like to work these things out yourself. However you had already mentioned ironing out ripples so I went ahead with my own experience in this area. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Looking good Vossie - I knocked the bulkhead extensions off at this stage then planked the inner side of the gunwales which smoothed out some minor ripples at the forward gun ports. Obviously all the planking was curved to shape first and gun ports were planked over then re-opened once planking was dry. Rick
  3. Rick01
    I did have problems with a slight bowing at the gun ports however once I'd started to plank this area the planking did pull it all back into line. Rick
  4. Rick01
    "I'm good with this, although I look forward to doing a ship where the keel is correctly left off until after planking as cutting those rabbets will be trivial in comparison to this little bit of micro-surgery." I've seen a couple of builds where instructions recommend fitting keel before planking - the builder has ignored this, cut the rabbet, planked first and second layer then cut a groove to take the full keel. Worked very well as long as they had a very steady hand for the last operation. Rick
  5. Rick01
    Just before you do you'll need to decide if you're going to paint the bulwarks and facia or leave plain timber. If the latter then it would be easier to put a veneer planking on the inner face of the facia before fitting. Rick
  6. Rick01
    That's the same way I handled it. Bulwarks first soaking them at the prow to ensure that they bend without breaking at the first cannon port (mine did anyway :-( ). They will almost certainly need trimming at the stern to match the angle of the elbows, then as you say fit the stern fascia. This will only need the final planking in due course. Rick
  7. Rick01
    Doesn't matter how well I check my work I always seem to find one little thing that got missed/misaligned! At least it wasn't at a point where nothing could be done. Rick
  8. Rick01
    I actually thought that you'd realised that the deadeye would also require a bit of work! Maybe a request to Chuck for a "one off" would be the way to go. As for the boom/bowsprit I'm afraid I can't answer that one, hopefully Druxey or Chuck will see this and be able to answer, I'd also be interested in the reasoning behind it. Rick
  9. Rick01
    I'm going to enjoy watching you make the corresponding 5 holed deadeye when you start rigging the ship. Rick
  10. Rick01
    " using .06 thick planking" !!! Should have read .6 mm Rick
  11. Rick01
    We Australians get a little upset at times when our own history gets forgotten. The original release of this ship did in fact claim it was the real "Lady Nelson" - pretty obviously not when you count the masts!! As to the planking, your idea looks fine, I did go about it a slightly different way in that my second planking was done using .06 thick planking - somewhat easier to manipulate. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Vossiewulf - there is another reason why a few of us don't really like the name on this cutter. There actually was a "Lady Nelson" used in the exploration of Australia but rigged as a brig rather than a cutter see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Lady_Nelson_(1798)wikipedia I know but in this instance basically accurate. Rick
  13. Rick01
    I fitted the gunwales first then soaked and bent the transom into the approximate curve needed. Once I was satisfied with it I then started carefully shaving the "legs" until everything went together neatly. By the way the gunwales have a tendency to break at the bow gun ports if you're not super careful when fitting ( not that I'd expect anything other than care going on your build so far). Rick
  14. Rick01
    Hi Vossiewulf. One question not directly associated with the model. Where are you located? Purely a matter of interest and no need to answer if you feel it a little personal. Rick
  15. Rick01
    One specific error in Petersson is the anchor cable on the windlass. The cable on one side is correctly led over the drum whilst the other one goes under. So turning the windlass will be lowering one anchor whilst raising the other ! This error has been replicated by the manufacturer of the model of HM Cutter Mermaid . Rick
  16. Rick01
    I also reversed the companionway so the doors are facing aft - seems to me that less water would be hitting it in heavy seas/storms than in its shown position of doors opening forward. The belfry seems to be an item that doesn't have any specific position on cutters, I've seen them built onto the companionway top and on the windlass so that item is open for you to decide. Rick
  17. Rick01
    Hi - Tony has it. The companionway is the boxy looking structure aft of the last grating. I re-made mine using planking as I personally think it looks better than slab sides. As for the gratings I fit a bit of matt black card into the grating at the scale we're working at it does the job nicely. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Thanks Chuck that makes so much more sense and I do have spare cleats available to belay the lines. Rick
  19. Rick01
    Pretty much how I understood it. However the kit only provides for two blocks so I'm puzzled over how one belays what is "in effect" a running hoist broken only by the loop and toggle for fixing the flag. I'm to far on with the kit to now go back and provide some belaying pin racks at the stern. Rick
  20. Rick01
    I'm at the stage of rigging my cutter "Lady Nelson" and am puzzling over the flag hoist. Both the plans and Petersson agree that a block is roved to the tip of the gaff but then differ in that Petersson has the "loose" ends run down to a belaying pin whilst the kit indicates a continuous loop running through a second block fixed to a ring bolt by the rudder. Using this latter system, once the flag is hoist how does it then remain hoist? I'm assuming that the apparent continuous loop does in fact have a loop and toggle clipped together when no flag attached, otherwise fixed to the flag appropriately. (Hope this makes sense). Rick
  21. Rick01
    When you do get to the rigging you'll find that you need a few more belaying points than the kit allows. I've 8 ring bolts around the mast I should have remade the belaying pin rack (can't think of the correct word!) as the pins are to close together - would have been better split in two and set between two cannon positions. Rck
  22. Rick01
    Basically true!! Rick
  23. Rick01
    Fillers then deck - I'm building this model and that (to me) is much the better way. Rick
  24. Rick01
    The first item in the book is actually of a cutter with enough information to fully rig your "Lady Nelson". Much more detail is provided than on the plans (I'm building this myself at the moment). Rick
  25. Rick01
    " I will try my best to make a perfect Lady Nelson, but know I will never get there." As this kit is actually generic in that there was no cutter "Lady Nelson" as long as you follow the general layout etc. for an 18th century cutter you will have produced your own "perfect" model. Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore_and-aft Craft will give you a reasonable rigging plan (better than the stripped down version supplied) and a look here at contemporary cutter models will also provide some illumination. Rick

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