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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Sounds good to me - I found the direction change at the stern less of a problem with properly soaked timber than ensuring I got a smooth line of planking at the prow. At this stage I also slowed down in build speed - two or three planks a side daily with deck furnishings being built between times to relieve the boredom. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Only one variation that I'd make. I'd make the first couple of planks under the gunwales full (non-tapered) planks visually you then seem to loose the appearance of an up-swept planking line especially if you then taper the rest only slightly rather than have a few with slightly greater tapers. Hope that makes sense! Being the first layer it does give you room to experiment. Rick
  3. Rick01
    "BTW Rick what is up with these uneven and different on each side curves on the tops of the bulkhead strips?" You may want to buy a small herd of goats before you've finished. The upper edge of the gunwale should run parallel to the deck - so in this case there should be a smooth curve for the full length of it. Looks to me as if the laser cutter had some sort of hiccup or maybe just a bit of a wobble, the gun ports either side of the dip actually look distorted slightly as well. Shouldn't be as much of a problem as your redo of those elbows however, When it gets planked just ensure you get a nice line with the top plank ignoring the wobble, the capping rail will conceal the dip nicely. Next time you start to get that feeling of burning one of the more recalcitrant bits go ahead, just remember to make a good copy first!! I've got half a ships worth of junked items where it was a better idea to junk it rather than continue the fight but I've always either got a good copy or been able to reconstruct the bit from the outline from the blank that it was lasered from. You're going to have a brilliant model when finished , plus this build will be pretty well the definitive manual for beginners building "Lady Nelson". Rick
  4. Rick01
    Hey Vossie at least you didn't have your decking laid before you had the "do over" - it's sheer hell when you have a nice clean deck with a spot of paint on it (speaking from experience). Rick
  5. Rick01
    So you're about to start on what I find as the scary, boring, frustrating bit of ship building. Only one bit of advice here, if you haven't already, then you should read some of the articles here http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.phpand consider using a PVA glue - i found it much easier to remove bits that don't work properly (like half a side of second planking that I hated) than with CA. Rick :-)
  6. Rick01
    I finished the prep work after fixing the bulwarks because of the stability problem myself, even then I broke one of the inner elbows off the deck once. The fascia should be flat in the vertical plane with a reasonable curve horizontally. I do recall that it took a bit of time/work shaping the elbows to get a proper fit - I also made three ( I think) fascias before I got the fit right. These niggles are sent to try us! Rick
  7. Rick01
    I was actually in two minds about posting as I know you like to work these things out yourself. However you had already mentioned ironing out ripples so I went ahead with my own experience in this area. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Looking good Vossie - I knocked the bulkhead extensions off at this stage then planked the inner side of the gunwales which smoothed out some minor ripples at the forward gun ports. Obviously all the planking was curved to shape first and gun ports were planked over then re-opened once planking was dry. Rick
  9. Rick01
    I did have problems with a slight bowing at the gun ports however once I'd started to plank this area the planking did pull it all back into line. Rick
  10. Rick01
    "I'm good with this, although I look forward to doing a ship where the keel is correctly left off until after planking as cutting those rabbets will be trivial in comparison to this little bit of micro-surgery." I've seen a couple of builds where instructions recommend fitting keel before planking - the builder has ignored this, cut the rabbet, planked first and second layer then cut a groove to take the full keel. Worked very well as long as they had a very steady hand for the last operation. Rick
  11. Rick01
    Just before you do you'll need to decide if you're going to paint the bulwarks and facia or leave plain timber. If the latter then it would be easier to put a veneer planking on the inner face of the facia before fitting. Rick
  12. Rick01
    That's the same way I handled it. Bulwarks first soaking them at the prow to ensure that they bend without breaking at the first cannon port (mine did anyway :-( ). They will almost certainly need trimming at the stern to match the angle of the elbows, then as you say fit the stern fascia. This will only need the final planking in due course. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Doesn't matter how well I check my work I always seem to find one little thing that got missed/misaligned! At least it wasn't at a point where nothing could be done. Rick
  14. Rick01
    I actually thought that you'd realised that the deadeye would also require a bit of work! Maybe a request to Chuck for a "one off" would be the way to go. As for the boom/bowsprit I'm afraid I can't answer that one, hopefully Druxey or Chuck will see this and be able to answer, I'd also be interested in the reasoning behind it. Rick
  15. Rick01
    I'm going to enjoy watching you make the corresponding 5 holed deadeye when you start rigging the ship. Rick
  16. Rick01
    " using .06 thick planking" !!! Should have read .6 mm Rick
  17. Rick01
    We Australians get a little upset at times when our own history gets forgotten. The original release of this ship did in fact claim it was the real "Lady Nelson" - pretty obviously not when you count the masts!! As to the planking, your idea looks fine, I did go about it a slightly different way in that my second planking was done using .06 thick planking - somewhat easier to manipulate. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Vossiewulf - there is another reason why a few of us don't really like the name on this cutter. There actually was a "Lady Nelson" used in the exploration of Australia but rigged as a brig rather than a cutter see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Lady_Nelson_(1798)wikipedia I know but in this instance basically accurate. Rick
  19. Rick01
    I fitted the gunwales first then soaked and bent the transom into the approximate curve needed. Once I was satisfied with it I then started carefully shaving the "legs" until everything went together neatly. By the way the gunwales have a tendency to break at the bow gun ports if you're not super careful when fitting ( not that I'd expect anything other than care going on your build so far). Rick
  20. Rick01
    Hi Vossiewulf. One question not directly associated with the model. Where are you located? Purely a matter of interest and no need to answer if you feel it a little personal. Rick
  21. Rick01
    One specific error in Petersson is the anchor cable on the windlass. The cable on one side is correctly led over the drum whilst the other one goes under. So turning the windlass will be lowering one anchor whilst raising the other ! This error has been replicated by the manufacturer of the model of HM Cutter Mermaid . Rick
  22. Rick01
    I also reversed the companionway so the doors are facing aft - seems to me that less water would be hitting it in heavy seas/storms than in its shown position of doors opening forward. The belfry seems to be an item that doesn't have any specific position on cutters, I've seen them built onto the companionway top and on the windlass so that item is open for you to decide. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Hi - Tony has it. The companionway is the boxy looking structure aft of the last grating. I re-made mine using planking as I personally think it looks better than slab sides. As for the gratings I fit a bit of matt black card into the grating at the scale we're working at it does the job nicely. Rick
  24. Rick01
    Thanks Chuck that makes so much more sense and I do have spare cleats available to belay the lines. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Pretty much how I understood it. However the kit only provides for two blocks so I'm puzzled over how one belays what is "in effect" a running hoist broken only by the loop and toggle for fixing the flag. I'm to far on with the kit to now go back and provide some belaying pin racks at the stern. Rick

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